Why did you leave the conical spring on there ?

Been working on a BOP overhaul for a bit of time now. Started out in pretty rough shape like a lot of them. I have now painted and decaled the cabinet, installed a new playfield that I SprayMax 2k'd, Reese Rails, rebuilt all the mechs., new LED displays from the UK, Titans, full set of Comets, new plastics, Flipper Fidelity speakers, new legs, lockdown receiver and bar, new rails, updated the power/driver board, refinished the coin door. It will have a new backglass as well. Final connections being made. Hopefully initial test fire forthcoming. A couple before and several more current pix.

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I always use them, avoids wear by minimizing contact with the plunger shaft.

She got that ball jammed right up her....

I see you used blue bumper caps and flasher domes. I did the same with my own BOP - I think it looks great! I also replaced the targets with white ones.

Ooooh sparkly!

It’s been almost a year since I did it last time, but I had a pretty good game this morning! Reminds me why I had to have this game in the first place!

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BOP is back together and fired up. Now the tweaking begins.

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I'm not sure if this has been covered before or not. Shooting the lane to the left of the ramp and the ball goes into a kicker. When the ball goes in most of the time it falls out into the cabinet from the open slot in the stainless. When I started working on this game somebody had duct taped a piece of wood to the side of the stainless. I removed it but now I realize what they were trying to accomplish. Is this mechanism missing something, or am I missing something?

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You are missing the face shield. It’s a large piece that many brides are missing. Designed to catch balls in the event of a face malfunction or if the loop shot falls towards it it redirects it back into place

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Yep your entire face sheild is missing. You can even see how they built it to keep the balls from coming out of that kicker.

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Thank you for pointing out that I'm missing the face shield. I made this in the meantime, but I just ordered one from Cliffy. Appreciate the information.

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Alright, here goes... I found this forum topic about 3 months ago when I purchased a BoP all Willy-Nilly off Craigslist and used it as a kind of Cliffs Notes throughout my rebuild. But as is with any remake or sequel, the results do vary and I expect the opinions will too. So without further adieu; I give you my best rendition of The Machine: Bride of Pin-Bot. There is plenty of info on the mods, upgrades and basic undertaking that was this project table on my profile page if you're really bored and want to read through the nonsense I wrote up about the process. Thanks for looking and for all of the great ideas and tips along the way!!!

professorpinball
Devilsmuse
bigdaddy1

DLO

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That has got to be the sexiest apron I have ever seen a woman wear...

Holy crap thats a nice machine/restore. Great job man.

LIVE NOW with 1991 Williams 'Bride of Pinbot' Pinball - https://twitch.tv/owlnonymous

BOP restore has been completed and left the building for my neighbor's basement. Thanks to Jmckune and PhillyArcade for steering me in the right direction with the missing face shield. Cliffy's new face shield replacement is awesome. Ended up ordering a Rottendog power/driver board for it due to some hacks on the back of the original that where causing a few issues. Just have to order an LED OCD board to tweak the LED's and everything should be totally complete. I'm very pleased with this pin. The pictures don't do it justice.

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Better then new that's for sure!

Nice work Notice a big difference in sound with Flipper Fidelity speakers ? Surprised by the sound dynamics with std speakers. Must be a good sound board..

FF speakers are a huge upgrade.

I’m scared bride is becoming too easy. I still love the game but the first time I got billionaires club was almost a year before I repeated it. Now it’s a month since that and I was able to get my highest score yet via 2 Big wheel spins one for 50 million and the other for the billion. I figured out the trick to getting through the multiball easy.

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It becomes WAY too easy... my Top Billionaire club score was a 9.75B or so for the longest time. Breaking the 10B Mark is a slog, as she stops giving billionaire shot lit awards after 8 off the big wheel, making that last billion of 9B a mofo, and the only way to 10 billion is by getting black door billion and all 8 Billion shots, plus scoring wheel awards or just play long enough (impossible IMHO to Score a billion without big wheel awards) to score it. This happened about 3 months into owning her back in ‘93. The game took hours, and was only achievable by having unlimited extra balls turned on (which kind of tells you how easy EB’s are to get )

Basically it went like this... on every ball-

plunge ball, light EB using left loop, score extra ball, then just shoot the ramp.... till you light billion shot, hit Heart ramp for billion.

Rinse, and repeat

For the record, on any given day, turning her Human for me is a no brainer, getting to the billionaires club takes me maybe a couple of games. Then again, she can bust my balls and 30 games later I give up, which is rare but does happen. I wanted Bride so bad before I owned her, but after 3 months in, she had given up all her chastity and I have, over the years, kind of regretted buying her, and if it wasn’t for the fact that she and Pinbot look so nice sitting side by side, and the fact that my Pinbot is bolted to the floor, she would have been shuffled off to Buffalo years ago.

Hi guys,

Any opinions on what looks best on this game - CPR backglass or the 3D translite. Has anyone seen both? Thanks for any feedback.

And it’s a shame because mine plays and shoots really really good. It’s fast and will bite you if you aren’t careful but once multiball starts, it’s steep enough and clean enough to where if you just hold the left flipper up it bounces the ball to the right flipper and you can make the ramp before the other ball gets all the way down.

EXACTLY!!!! OMG it sets it up perfectly to shoot the ramp, spin big wheel, repeat till it lights billion... and on and on and on till your wrists are so sore you say f@ck it and pray to get it in shooter lane or just let it drain to take a break. Yeah, been there, bought the tshirt and a bag of popcorn

Mine used to do that but after a playfield swap the ball is too slow and drains. I think as it drops from the wireform it hits the back side of the kicker rubber and scrubs the balls speed. I have tried adjusting the wireform and how it falls out of the wireform but I cant get it to stop hitting the rubber on the way down. My playfield pitch is at 6.0 degrees , I will have to try adjusting the playfield angle more I guess? Ah I miss those days of the elegant flipper pass then up the left ramp!

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Hmm not sure, the space looks about the same as mine. My bride could sure use a playfield swap but I’d definitely prefer it to play excellent than be a showpiece lol

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When you are young and a little naive, you don't realize just how much HUO wear makes all the cleaning and waxing and rerubbering really not that important. You just play the damn thing and when it stops playing like it used to, throw a layer of wax down and replace and dead feeling rubbers and keep on trucking. I thought I would need to buy an extra playfiled, and targets and ramps and helmet and ect... just to keep it pretty, but actually keeping them pretty is a fools errand in the long haul, if you plan to keep a pin for a long time. You can spend your idle time cleaning and waxing and repairing, or you can spend it playing them. I play mine, and hardly ever do much else to them but a clean and wax maybe once a year, and replace dead or crappy rubber every 4 to 5. I grew up playing route queens, so I am perfectly fine with the ones I own, no need to spend all the time and money making showpieces out of them. It plays about the same clean or dirty... to a certain point. If you are getting too good at a machine, throw a coat of wax on it and see how well your average score does.

Oh I know it doesn’t “need” a playfield swap it was actually my first pin so it’s a little special for me. I do regularly wax it and for a bit it becomes way harder. The original owner that had it for the past 28 years did not take care of it. Ever. And told me so themself. As a result of that in combination with the fact that on this one, the lower playfield is not covered by Mylar except on the hearts. There is widespread planking. Thankfully the jets area did have Mylar and are in good condition.

My Pinbot and Bride had day 1 factory applied mylar... "Factory applied" back then did not mean they took the time to do it well, it just meant they took the time to throw it down and box it up. BUT, I am a fan of the mylar... table wear? what table wear?

I have my BOP up for sale if anyone is looking for one! I found a TOTAN I want so the bride must move along...

Hey guys! I got myself a PinSound and a shaker kit for the BOP, now working on a good shaker implementation. Will definitely make the heartbeats strong - any other suggestions/wishes?

Alright - I'm done! I implemented some subtle effects to compliment the gameplay (BOP not a theme like LAH afetr all!). Most importantly, the heartbeat sounds are actually distinct triggers, so I was able to implement short shaker bursts. The feeling of the heart after metamorphosis induces goosebumps!!!

I like the addition of the shaker a lot, gives the gameplay even more depth.

Hi everyone, I could use some help. I'm finishing a complete tear down and rebuild of my BoP and I've got a problem I can't figure out. I bought a new ramp but it seems to be the wrong size. The mini playfield is lower than the ramp, so I can't see how the ball would ever transfer from the mini playfield to the ramp. See the yellow arrows showing the height difference (ignore the different colored rubbers, which I need to order more of). Everything else seems to have gone back together correctly so I can't understand how this height difference is happening unless that's the way it's supposed to be.

Thanks in advance

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Do you have pix of the upper playfield from other directions? How does the upper part of the playfield meet the crossover from the head? Are the ramps too high, or the upper playfield too low?

does this help?

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..

I have the same Billionaire club initials and score on my bride of pinbot that I just bought. BRE 1,004,206,800

My mini playfield is resting on the same supports as in your picture, so that seems correct.

However, my ramp seemingly can only be attached one way on top of the frame for the shooter lane rollers, but it's hovering a half inch above the rear bracket it's supposed to be screwed into. No matter how much I push or twist it, I can't force it down any further. I'll take some pics from other directions to see if that provides any clues but I messed with it for hours before giving up and going to bed (and posting here).

Looks like the hex post is holding up your ramp I in the centre) due to thick moulding?

Is it even sitting down onto that hex post, little bit hard to see from the pic angle? That would be the cause i would be thinking. If the support posts for the mini playfield are correct then it has to be the ramp sitting up too high.

The middle hex post was exactly the problem. I had to drill the inside of ramp to make the space wide enough for the hex post. Thanks for looking and helping!

Finally got my BoP all put back together and many problems. . .

Head not calibrating - I assume this is just a switch adjustment issue.

Jet bumper solenoids don't fire

None of my cabinet switches seem to be working - start button, coin buttons, tilt, coin door switch

Slingshot solenoids not working

Could any/all of these problems be related? I've checked fuses in the backbox - all appear to be good but I replaced 2 just to be sure.

Any advice on how to start troubleshooting these problems would be greatly appreciated. I have a multimeter but I don't really know how to use it

Thanks

might have solved my problems - had 2 plugs reversed in the back box. now i have to adjust a bunch of switches and replace a fuse which i'm hoping will fix my jet bumper and sling solenoids.

Hello everyone. Have a tech question on our latest BOP restore. It has been playing fine the past few months then yesterday I fired her up to an ENTER report. The error in question is “Check switch/helmet motor”. The helmet will not move at all. Did the calibration and it said error calibrating. Switch test and a physical check show SW67 working correctly. Erik and I did some digging and looked into all the old threads regarding a non working helmet. All the past posts show that people can move the helmet in manual operation..

In our case when we try to move the helmet using coin door up/down buttons we only hear a click when turning on/off. We pulled the circuit board in the lower left bottom and re soldered the header pins. Still nothing. Saw some posts regarding changing the relay but we have not attempted that yet.

Regarding SW67 is says closed when in the Indentation and open when we hold it down with a screwdriver. This seems the opposite of what the posts say and the manual. Kinda confused on that one.

Leaning towards the motor or relay. Any thoughts before we bench test the motor?

Thanks for any comments!

If you hear the relay click and no motor movement, I would put a meter across the motor wires and see if you are getting voltage at the motor. If yes, then replace motor if it doesn't move with voltage applied. Does the motor hum or get hot or can you tell if the motor is turning but the head mechanism is not? The most common problem with the head is the Geneva mechanism. If the motor is turning but no head motion, then the Geneva mechanism is blotto and needs replaced. The other problem is the relay contacts themselves. Not sure if they have a spark suppressor cap on that circuit, but the contacts in the relay can get burnt and stop working. Replace the relay if you hear it pick up but get no voltage at the motor.

OK. We will test and give some comments as soon as possible!

So no voltage to the motor, checked fuse and it's good. Brand new rottendog power supply so that's out. F116 fuse good and LED7 is on. Looked for a loose connection somewhere and traced to little relay board. Using manual cycle T16I can hear the relay clicking on/off but no voltage even at the connector right next to the relay board. Thinking new relay?

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Do you have voltage coming into the Relay board? J2 pins 4 and 7 should have +12v, also, the follow on from the relay goes to the driver for the motor. So the relay controls motor direction, not off and on. So to make the head turn, you only need to short the driver lead (J2 pins 5 or 6) to ground and the head should move. By clicking the relay using solenoid 27 and shorting the driver lead (solenoid 28) it should reverse direction. Look to see your driver is not blown, because that is more likely than relay contacts. Check solenoid 28 driver for head motor. Also check the wiring from J2 to driver board, a open in this line can also cause the problem.
Also, if you put a meter across J2 pins 5 and 6 and ground and get +12v, your driver or the line from J2 to the driver board is more likely the culprit. Good luck.

BH

Sounds like a plan. Will post an update!