(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0


By MustangPaul

4 years ago



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  • 1,906 posts
  • 172 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by Jakusu
  • Topic is favorited by 77 Pinsiders

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There are 1906 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 39.
#1801 5 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Added some spinner decals, always disliked the prismatic plain decal on these. These look cool when spinning They aren't as 'fuzzy' as what the pics suggest, it's my damn camera playing up
[quoted image][quoted image]

Well dang,.. now Ive just had to go and buy a set to see it for real,.. looks good on your BoP

#1802 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Those look sharp Paul

Cheers Paul!! I knew there was something bugging me in the back of my mind every time i played the machine, something seemed missing and after printing out the faces for the coin return inserts the light bulb snapped on I was originally going to go with the first 2 faces of the bride but felt it just wasn't going to look right? A mate of mine dropped around for a few games and i mentioned about the idea of the first 2 faces and his reply was "Geezuz, it will look like a sex doll spinning flat out" Let's just say that sold me on the latter 2 faces!!

#1803 5 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Cheers Paul!! I knew there was something bugging me in the back of my mind every time i played the machine, something seemed missing and after printing out the faces for the coin return inserts the light bulb snapped on I was originally going to go with the first 2 faces of the bride but felt it just wasn't going to look right? A mate of mine dropped around for a few games and i mentioned about the idea of the first 2 faces and his reply was "Geezuz, it will look like a sex doll spinning flat out" Let's just say that sold me on the latter 2 faces!!

Yeah sometimes it's right in front of you but you just can't see it. LOL

#1804 5 months ago

My jackpot on backglass has been flashing at 6 million for at least a few games now (from power on). Doesn't this reset?

#1805 5 months ago

Yeah so I am an idiot and just collected the jackpot and it reset...lol. Didn't know it carried over from game to game.

1 week later
#1806 5 months ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

Well dang,.. now Ive just had to go and buy a set to see it for real,.. looks good on your BoP

Just put the Bride face spinner decals on,.. nice !! Simple cheap mod,.. hit that spinner..

#1807 5 months ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

Just put the Bride face spinner decals on,.. nice !! Simple cheap mod,.. hit that spinner..

Cheers mate!! Glad you like them it's made me want to hit that spinner more

3 weeks later
#1808 4 months ago
IMG_20200101_114723 (resized).jpg
#1809 4 months ago

Hello fellow BoP owners. I am looking for a good quality image of the Bride. I am currently working on a full restore and would like to do something to cover the entire apron, maybe like a high resolution image of the side decal with black background. If anyone has anything please PM me. Thank you.

#1810 4 months ago

All done and playing beautifully!
Got the pinsound mix and motion control going well.
Lots of little mods, enjoy the pics.
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#1811 4 months ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

All done and playing beautifully!
Got the pinsound mix and motion control going well.
Lots of little mods, enjoy the pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is gorgeous and out of this world!

Way to go!

Couple questions... the apron, what did you do there? The white shooter lane rubbers looks like flipper rubbers. What exactly did you do there?

#1812 4 months ago

Thanks!
Apron is chrome plated with custom metalised decals.

Shooter lane rubbers are double up titan rebound rubbers, work a treat.

#1813 4 months ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

All done and playing beautifully!
Got the pinsound mix and motion control going well.
Lots of little mods, enjoy the pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is she your gothic bride?

1 week later
#1814 4 months ago

Joining the club. Picked my girl up early Fall last year. Always wanted one and couldn't be happier.
Replaced the weak sauce LEDs with new ones from Comet. Replaced left and right ramps, a new glass, and added the plasma feature.
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#1815 4 months ago
Quoted from Morinack:

Joining the club. Picked my girl up clearly Fall last year. Always wanted one and couldn't be happier.
Replaced the weak sauce LEDs with new ones from Comet. Replaced left and right ramps, a new glass, and added the plasma feature.

Original prototype PF or has this one been restored with a repro?

#1816 4 months ago

This is an original DP.
Only issues are really a little flaking around the inserts

#1817 4 months ago

I have a new repro BOP pf done by Peter for sale, $850 shipped in the lower 48 in a wood crate. PM if interested.

Added 129 days ago:

PF is sold.

#1818 4 months ago

I’m gonna have to replace switch 63 (left eye). I opened the head and it just looks like a blast to get to. I’ve never had to replace a switch and while I know it’s probably a dumb question but how do I get the old one off? I know exactly what I need to do to get the new one in but I’ve never removed one. Cut the wire right below the solder? Something else?

#1819 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I’m gonna have to replace switch 63 (left eye). I opened the head and it just looks like a blast to get to. I’ve never had to replace a switch and while I know it’s probably a dumb question but how do I get the old one off? I know exactly what I need to do to get the new one in but I’ve never removed one. Cut the wire right below the solder? Something else?

It's pretty straightforward to do. To make things easier for me I add solder to the metal tabs first before soldering the wires on to make it easier. Nip the wires as close to the switch and use flux paste on the exposed wires to help the solder flow. Put the switch arm on after the switch is mounted. Make sure the switch arm is not bent too aggressively or when the face rotates, it will rip the switch arm off. That's about all I can think of.

#1820 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

It's pretty straightforward to do. To make things easier for me I add solder to the metal tabs first before soldering the wires on to make it easier. Nip the wires as close to the switch and use flux paste on the exposed wires to help the solder flow. Put the switch arm on after the switch is mounted. Make sure the switch arm is not bent too aggressively or when the face rotates, it will rip the switch arm off. That's about all I can think of.

Lol that’s what’s happened to the last one, when I got the game it was missing the actuator all together. I acquired a left eye actuator I found when I went to put on the new actuator the switch wasn’t making contact when the ball was on it. As a quick fix I moved the actuator up to the second post on the microswitch which raised it enough to consistently work with the ball. Eventually though the slight contact it had with the eyeball while rotating made the post on that spot wear out too. So now I’m gonna pull it and replace the right way. Is there an easy way to get at the screws that attach the microswitch in there as it sits facing towards switch 64 right eye. My small screwdriver can’t even fit. Does the piece that mounts to the metal bracket come off to then pull up to get easier access to the mounted microswitch? I can probably figure that out once I need to if you all don’t know what I’m talking about.

#1821 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Lol that’s what’s happened to the last one, when I got the game it was missing the actuator all together. I acquired a left eye actuator I found when I went to put on the new actuator the switch wasn’t making contact when the ball was on it. As a quick fix I moved the actuator up to the second post on the microswitch which raised it enough to consistently work with the ball. Eventually though the slight contact it had with the eyeball while rotating made the post on that spot wear out too. So now I’m gonna pull it and replace the right way. Is there an easy way to get at the screws that attach the microswitch in there as it sits facing towards switch 64 right eye. My small screwdriver can’t even fit. Does the piece that mounts to the metal bracket come off to then pull up to get easier access to the mounted microswitch? I can probably figure that out once I need to if you all don’t know what I’m talking about.

I don't remember it being difficult to change the switch, but I can't remember how I did it.

#1822 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I’m gonna have to replace switch 63 (left eye). I opened the head and it just looks like a blast to get to. I’ve never had to replace a switch and while I know it’s probably a dumb question but how do I get the old one off? I know exactly what I need to do to get the new one in but I’ve never removed one. Cut the wire right below the solder? Something else?

Pulling the head unit out was not the worst job I've ever had to do. Perhaps a picture will help you decide.

I doubt I would try to solder an eye switch without removing the assembly. Solder splash and all that...
20191214_112522 (resized).jpg

#1823 3 months ago

Went to replace switch today and when I opened my package that was supposed to have a new switch in it. Got some kind of other part that definitely was not a switch. Contacted company and they are making it right, just have to wait a few days for it to get here. Also installed new ROM with hopes of fixing problem with helmet lights. They work perfect except for face 1 where they sort of just caterpillar to off instead of chasing. No dice there. Was inspecting helmet underside and it looked like maybe one of the solder joints was suspect but haven’t tried doing anything with it yet. Here’s the photos I took of underside. Maybe if more than one person looks they can tell me if they see the same thing I do or if I’m wrong. Specifically the purple side looks suspect to me on the third pin from the top.

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#1824 3 months ago

Anyone have an upper PF for sale? They are sold out everywhere.

Thanks

#1825 3 months ago
Quoted from algrande:

Anyone have an upper PF for sale? They are sold out everywhere.
Thanks

Even CPR?

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/bopmini/

#1827 3 months ago
Quoted from algrande:

Thanks, the only place I did not look

Why is it, we always find the thing we're looking for in the last place we look?

HTH

#1828 3 months ago

Joining the club - bought a BOP project. Needs tons of work, but got a full DIY set with playfield, decals ramps etc. Will be a great project for me and the daughter!20200204_190216440_iOS (resized).jpg

#1829 3 months ago

As a member of the club, I have to ask, is this the title you really want to restore with your daughter? I mean she (The Bride, not your daughter) sits there looking like a metalic blow up doll and there is all the innuendo- Give her enough “Human Influx” and make her live and sing? Not to mention the “shoot your balls into her mouth, eyes, throat”... and the fact it was designed by a pair of sexual deviants... hey, I bought one too, but I try and downplay all those aspects of the game when I have guests over but its hard to miss and most people, male or female, pick up on the hyper-sexual undertones. Certainly might raise some eyebrows depending on the crowd you hang with. I dont have a daughter though, so I may be talking out my ass.

#1830 3 months ago

^ maybe he can make it into a 2.0 which loses literally any and all innuendo.

#1831 3 months ago

My daughter has been playing BOPs on several locations. She‘s read books on sex education (like „Perfectly normal“, highly recommended!) and is a pretty unfazed kid. Also, living in Europe helps (for instance it‘s actually legal to show naked boobs here).

Nevertheless, I do appreciate your concerns - but I can assure you, we‘ve got it covered. She‘s more interested in the game anyway and is really looking forward to doing an inventory on all the metal parts.

#1832 3 months ago

It's a giant robot you are building. Never gave it much thought the "other" way. Just a really fun game

#1833 3 months ago

Me either. But now that he mentions the “human influx” she also says “I feel...strange” at the same moment that message is displayed. Lol

#1834 3 months ago

„yes...Yes...YES!!!“

#1835 3 months ago

Alright guys, I've started to check my new BOP for errors. First problem: The through switch does not register, so BOP never detects drains. I looked at the switch (it does click) and all the soldering points (look fine). What would be the next diagnostic steps?

#1836 3 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Alright guys, I've started to check my new BOP for errors. First problem: The through switch does not register, so BOP never detects drains. I looked at the switch (it does click) and all the soldering points (look fine). What would be the next diagnostic steps?

Mmmm maybe the switch is bad but these don't normally blow out internally. Maybe a possible break in the wire string somewhere on the way back to the main boards?? Try following the wires back along the loom and see if you can spot an obvious break somewhere. Any other switches that aren't working in test?

#1837 3 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Alright guys, I've started to check my new BOP for errors. First problem: The through switch does not register, so BOP never detects drains. I looked at the switch (it does click) and all the soldering points (look fine). What would be the next diagnostic steps?

Put a meter on it and check continuity. Even if the switch clicks it doesn't guarantee its being made.
You should be able to go into test mode and check switch edges on it being made.
Most commonly one of the trough switches is bad.
If I replace one, I typically replace them all.

#1838 3 months ago

I’ve also had plenty of points on my game that looked like they had a good solder connection, just added a little anyways, and the affected area came back to life. My issues were mostly lighting related though. Finally got the “face 3” light on back box to work with just a dab
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#1839 3 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I’ve also had plenty of points on my game that looked like they had a good solder connection, just added a little anyways, and the affected area came back to life.

THAT did it! Both the through switch AND the outhole solenoid had bad solder points, even though on visual inspection they looked good. A 5-minute fix - thanks for the hint!

#1840 3 months ago

In case anyone what was wondering what would happen if you wire the left eye microswitch backwards (white wire on rear post instead of front), upon initial inspection and test everything seems normal. Did some gameplay test just to see if I could leave as is, found out it caused the left loop to activate optics and pop locked ball down to the ball lock area. Once game realized it’s mistake it corrected to partial link. Needless to say I quickly undid the wire and moved to its correct spot and now I’m back to 100%

#1841 3 months ago

Hi, I am in the process of restoring my BoP and when I took the face off the white wheel fell off, not sure which way it goes on correctly for home. I realize I have a 50% chance, I would like to improve those odds. White wheel opening, down and to the left as per picture or up and to the right? Anybody with feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Don’t worry it will all get cleaned up too.
D27B0C07-5F75-4487-8799-E4F1CB355C88 (resized).jpeg

#1842 3 months ago

I was under the impression it found home via the switch contacting that back plate that’s in your picture. Face 4 does not have the indent I believe and after doing the face test the head rotates and cycles a few times to find home via the number of switch clicks. Don’t think it has to do with the white ring position.

#1843 3 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I was under the impression it found home via the switch contacting that back plate that’s in your picture. Face 4 does not have the indent I believe and after doing the face test the head rotates and cycles a few times to find home via the number of switch clicks. Don’t think it has to do with the white ring position.

Thanks, will give a try, still have time, working on the cabinet now.

#1844 3 months ago

Finally got all the issues with mine taken care of. Here is a before and after. A dramatic and positive improvement. Had to replace a few switches, clean, Resolve lighting issues, and fix broken parts. I think I saved this game from certain doom as the place it had been for the last 28 years was just recently torn down and judging by its previous maintenance or lack there of and the fact that it along with the other machines were only ever turned on if asked about , I would bet it would have been demolished with the rest of the place. Idk why a few extra pictures showed up but I can’t delete them

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#1845 3 months ago

Yo, Taxi!

#1846 3 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I would bet it would have been demolished with the rest of the place.

Is the guy in the hi-vis safety vest part of the building demolition crew?

Congrats! That cleaned up nicely.

#1847 3 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Is the guy in the hi-vis safety vest part of the building demolition crew?
Congrats! That cleaned up nicely.

Nope just my dad right after getting home from work wanting to take a look at it. It definitely gave me good knowledge on how to fix these things. Worst issue that annoyed me to death was the “Small Wheel” VUK, the rubber part of the plunger fell out of the metal part and I was wondering why the ball kept getting stuck there. Couldn’t find the part for it so the one and only hack on the machine? Super glued that vuk rubber piece back into the metal plunger hasn’t dared to fall out since.

1 week later
#1848 3 months ago

I have a new BOP tl for sale, $110 shipped in the lower 48. PM me if interested.

#1849 3 months ago

I've been neglecting the BOP at work. Haven't checked on her in 3 or more months.
On Friday; I went down there to play her... still functional; but very dark.
None of the helmet lights were working... and I'm pretty sure at least one string of GI was out.

The manual still lacks key information I needed - but couldn't specificially pinpoint what I was looking for. Maybe it was how the Chaser board hooks to the helmet and cpu boards.

I did some troubleshooting; and the chaser board is getting 12V and the regulator is outputting 5V...
Fuses were good via ohm check.
So I'm more inclined to believe that the GI transistors are out. I think Q18 drives the helmet "hot" side - correct? Q18 is one of the heatsinked jobs in the lower left hand corner of the PDB.
I'm not sure why the GI has developed a problem or for how long... maybe just old age.

Anyone have any specific suggestions to check? I really don't want to pull that PDB again... as it's always a chore. That said; I'm pretty sure I'm going to have no choice.

#1850 3 months ago

I just joined the club on Sat. My BoP came with a spare PF that would make a great restoration candidate, but the costs of restoring are similar to the repros from Germany. I was just wondering if anyone has installed a repro and how the process went. Are the holes in the correct locations, are the dimples present, how the clear held up.

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There are 1906 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 39.

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