(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0

By MustangPaul

8 years ago


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There are 2,688 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 54.
#1501 6 years ago

Cross posting here in case anyone else has come across the same issue. Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-playfield-lamps-take-a-few-minutes-to-come-on

#1502 6 years ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Cross posting here in case anyone else has come across the same issue. Thanks!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-playfield-lamps-take-a-few-minutes-to-come-on

I can’t advise much on board repairs as I’m new to WPC.
Can you replicate this issue by spraying the area with an upside down can of compressed air/hair dryer?

I’m guessing you have already tried reseating the ribbon cable between CPU and driver board both sides? That seems to fix a lot of problems.

I’ve also read that pushing down (with board out on a flat surface) or reseating the ASIC chip (U9) can resolve a few communication issues before it maybe gets to U18

I was also having intermittent controlled lamp issues (not exact same as yours) and found that pretty much all of the lamp boards had cold solder joints. Might be worth a check.

Bop11 (resized).jpgBop11 (resized).jpg
Bop11.1 (resized).jpgBop11.1 (resized).jpg

This looks like a nice test board, if you wanted to start at the CPU end first:

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1#/26-wiring_pack_style-wpc

#1503 6 years ago
Quoted from OzPaul:

I can’t advise much on board repairs as I’m new to WPC.
Can you replicate this issue by spraying the area with an upside down can of compressed air/hair dryer?
I’m guessing you have already tried reseating the ribbon cable between CPU and driver board both sides? That seems to fix a lot of problems.
I’ve also read that pushing down (with board out on a flat surface) or reseating the ASIC chip (U9) can resolve a few communication issues before it maybe gets to U18
I was also having intermittent controlled lamp issues (not exact same as yours) and found that pretty much all of the lamp boards had cold solder joints. Might be worth a check.

This looks like a nice test board, if you wanted to start at the CPU end first:
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1#/26-wiring_pack_style-wpc

That's some good advise. Thanks.

#1504 6 years ago

Thanks to an idea from @rubberducks, I've been working on a pinduino replacement for the helmet lights:

#1505 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Thanks to an idea from rubberducks, I've been working on a pinduino replacement for the helmet lights:
» YouTube video

I like that, does the pinduino read the game modes or what.

#1506 6 years ago

Finished installed the helmet back in my BoP and have updated the code. I think it came out really well (and kicks the snot out of the stock lighting).

Code, as always, is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/BOP-ramp-head

If anyone is interested in a plug and play kit, just PM me (and I'll get this listed in my Pinside store). I think the cost will be $125 (or you can DIY for around $40-$50).

#1507 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Code, as always, is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/BOP-ramp-head

If anyone is interested in a plug and play kit, just PM me (and I'll get this listed in my Pinside store). I think the cost will be $125 (or you can DIY for around $40-$50).

Interesting. I'd need a plug-n-play model. So it changes colors and patterns by it's self. Where does it draw power from?

#1509 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Interesting. I'd need a plug-n-play model. So it changes colors and patterns by it's self. Where does it draw power from?

Paul, you had asked similar questions about the Pinduino kit for the ramps and face -- this uses exactly the same system. It changes lighting effects based on game play (the Pinduino is programmable, arduino-based microcontroller than monitors pinball activity through J126 on the power driver board).

That is the magic of the pinduino: it is a generic and customizable controller that lets anyone doing anything. I've released all code as open source to let people design anything they can imagine (well, to a limit, with programmable LEDs being one of those limits. ). I've also released (open source) the board files for the the more powerful and flexible pidnuino system (which uses an Arduino Mega rather than a Nano) that let's people control addressable LEDs and 12V RGB LEDs: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/board_files. Just imagine how much more awesome your Lighted Legs could be if they changed colors based on game play (your leg kits are already awesome).

It gets power from the power driver board, using 12V to power the arduino and pinduino onboard circuits, and 5V for the LEDs. The helmet is using 16 LEDS, which would draw about 1/4A of current when set to white on full brightness. The ramp and face kit use ~60 LEDs, which draws about 1A. I've have both of these running off my power driver board, which I have updated with a MUCH better 5V and 12V voltage regulators:

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu3-12.html#.Vyo-L2Za4yM
http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.Vyo9i2Za4yM

Every WPC system I bring in gets these puppies put in (along with NVRAM).

I have overtaxed the 5V circuit on a couple of designs. My TZ has around 150 addressable LEDs and my Tron has about 250. For those, I add in an external 5V/12V switching power supply.

Sorry for the long post, but hope some of the info is useful. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions -- I'm always happy to help people get their ideas and creations off the ground.

IMG_6399 (resized).JPGIMG_6399 (resized).JPG

#1510 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Paul, you had asked similar questions about the Pinduino kit for the ramps and face -- this uses exactly the same system. It changes lighting effects based on game play (the Pinduino is programmable, arduino-based microcontroller than monitors pinball activity through J126 on the power driver board).
That is the magic of the pinduino: it is a generic and customizable controller that lets anyone doing anything. I've released all code as open source to let people design anything they can imagine (well, to a limit, with programmable LEDs being one of those limits. ). I've also released (open source) the board files for the the more powerful and flexible pidnuino system (which uses an Arduino Mega rather than a Nano) that let's people control addressable LEDs and 12V RGB LEDs: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/board_files. Just imagine how much more awesome your Lighted Legs could be if they changed colors based on game play (your leg kits are already awesome).
It gets power from the power driver board, using 12V to power the arduino and pinduino onboard circuits, and 5V for the LEDs. The helmet is using 16 LEDS, which would draw about 1/4A of current when set to white on full brightness. The ramp and face kit use ~60 LEDs, which draws about 1A. I've have both of these running off my power driver board, which I have updated with a MUCH better 5V and 12V voltage regulators:
http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu3-12.html#.Vyo-L2Za4yM
http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.Vyo9i2Za4yM
Every WPC system I bring in gets these puppies put in (along with NVRAM).
I have overtaxed the 5V circuit on a couple of designs. My TZ has around 150 addressable LEDs and my Tron has about 250. For those, I add in an external 5V/12V switching power supply.
Sorry for the long post, but hope some of the info is useful. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions -- I'm always happy to help people get their ideas and creations off the ground.

Thanks for the info.

#1511 6 years ago

The Pinduino helmet light kit looks great Eric. I think I may order one soon

You’ve convinced me to order some EZSBC 5V and 12V switch mode regulators, as my current 5V sits around the 4.75V mark (without resets) but I don’t like the fact that I could cook an egg on the original Q1 LM323K regulator. Whilst I have the driver board out, might as well replace the Q2 12V regulator also (cheap) and haven’t replaced the C2 capacitor yet!

May I ask you two questions about installing these modern replacements?

1: With the new Q1 5V regulator, do you bother installing it with the original heat sink? As the product description states a heat sink is optional.

2: With the new Q2 12V regulator, the description states no heat sink required and also no external capacitors required! Do you remove C2 & C3 capacitors when installing this replacement?

Cap removal (resized).jpgCap removal (resized).jpg

Just asking for my own piece of mind and also for anyone else thinking about upgrading too these new switch mode regulators, especially the 12V one.

Appreciate your input.
Paul.

#1512 6 years ago

Hi Paul,

Glad you like the Pinduino helmet! Such a great improvement.

When I replace the 5V and 12V regulator, I've now remove the 5V heatsink, leave the 12V heatsink in place but don't both attaching it to the 12V voltage regulator, replace C2 (I have a pile of these), and don't both replacing C3.

I hadn't read about removing C2 and C3, but leaving them in can't hurt (unless they leak).

Best,
-eric

#1513 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Hi Paul,
Glad you like the Pinduino helmet! Such a great improvement.
When I replace the 5V and 12V regulator, I've now remove the 5V heatsink, leave the 12V heatsink in place but don't both attaching it to the 12V voltage regulator, replace C2 (I have a pile of these), and don't both replacing C3.
I hadn't read about removing C2 and C3, but leaving them in can't hurt (unless they leak).
Best,
-eric

Thanks Eric, I'll give it a try

1 week later
#1514 6 years ago

Made a video showing the Pinduino controlled helmet lights using BoP 1.0:

The same code for the Pinduino is used for both BoP 1.0 and 2.0:

#1515 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

It gets power from the power driver board, using 12V to power the arduino and pinduino onboard circuits, and 5V for the LEDs. The helmet is using 16 LEDS, which would draw about 1/4A of current when set to white on full brightness. The ramp and face kit use ~60 LEDs, which draws about 1A. I've have both of these running off my power driver board, which I have updated with a MUCH better 5V and 12V voltage regulators:
http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu3-12.html#.Vyo-L2Za4yM
http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.Vyo9i2Za4yM
Every WPC system I bring in gets these puppies put in (along with NVRAM).

Proffesor Pinball , upgrading the 5v and 12v regulators: does this also apply to Rotten Dog replacement power driver boards?

#1516 6 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Proffesor Pinball , upgrading the 5v and 12v regulators: does this also apply to Rotten Dog replacement power driver boards?

Not sure -- I haven't had one of those in any of the games on which I've worked.

#1517 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Not sure -- I haven't had one of those in any of the games on which I've worked.

Thanks Eric, I know the Rotten Dog boards were designed to correct some of the problems with the original wpc boards. I just dont know exactly what it is. I will let you know if its needed when I have the Helmet ,face, and ramp lights- two pinduinos, fully operational later this week. LOL

#1518 6 years ago

The BOP at work has developed laryngitis with no sound coming out of speakers. This just randomly happened with no apparent cause. Do hear occational pops/clicks which would seem to indicate good AMPs.
Went over the piniwiki recommendations in addition to checking fuses and voltages.
both -12 and +12 audio amps seems to have good voltages.
+5 is a little low at 4.8VDC; but not sure that is a cause.
Speakers do not have opens.
Scope checks at caps to the amp stages seems to show no audio input.
8MHz oscillator to SND MPU is operating at W8. Reset to MPU is high.
3.58MHz oscillator which feeds U10 (YM2151) does not appear to be oscillating (checked with portable scope).

Plan to go to Frys tomorrow and get a replacement U22 (74LS04) and replace. That should fix it.

#1519 6 years ago

That's some detective work, hope that fixes it. Keep us informed.

#1520 6 years ago

The BOP at work??? Are you hiring?

#1521 6 years ago

Mancave sorry for the delay, but here is what I was thinking for the ball lock cover. Its still a little rough but I wanted to run it by everyone. This would simply be a sticker and would wrap the ball lock cover as shown. Let me know what you think.
Thanks

Bop Space Container installed (resized).jpgBop Space Container installed (resized).jpg

Bop Space Container (resized).jpgBop Space Container (resized).jpg

#1522 6 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Mancave sorry for the delay, but here is what I was thinking for the ball lock cover. Its still a little rough but I wanted to run it by everyone. This would simply be a sticker and would wrap the ball lock cover as shown. Let me know what you think.
Thanks

Cool idea and nicely done!

#1523 6 years ago

Awesome looking

#1524 6 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Mancave sorry for the delay, but here is what I was thinking for the ball lock cover. Its still a little rough but I wanted to run it by everyone. This would simply be a sticker and would wrap the ball lock cover as shown. Let me know what you think.
Thanks

Very well done!

#1525 6 years ago

Great job! I’d put that on my BoP.

1 month later
#1526 6 years ago

Polygamy the easy way?

20180114_182537 (resized).jpg20180114_182537 (resized).jpg

#1528 6 years ago

It’s a 1991 expo flashback

#1529 6 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

It’s a 1991 expo flashback

With pre-faded cabinets, what a novelty!

1 week later
#1530 6 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Mancave sorry for the delay, but here is what I was thinking for the ball lock cover. Its still a little rough but I wanted to run it by everyone. This would simply be a sticker and would wrap the ball lock cover as shown. Let me know what you think.
Thanks

Well here it is in action. I see that I have a little more work to do- like heavy up the line work on the astronauts and adjust the angle of the trim-out, where the side meets the door, but for a "one off" I am fairly happy with the results. I have attached pictures of the "install" It was tricky lining the sticker up because the Lock When Lit cover is not symmetrical as you can see if you look closely at my photos AND... my artwork is! Take a look and let me know what you guys think . Thanks

IMG_20180128_191527 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191527 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180128_191411 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191411 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180128_191550 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191550 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180128_191705 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191705 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180128_191743 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191743 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180128_191808 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191808 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180128_191649 (resized).jpgIMG_20180128_191649 (resized).jpg

#1531 6 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Well here it is in action. I see that I have a little more work to do- like heavy up the line work on the astronauts and adjust the angle of the trim-out, where the side meets the door, but for a "one off" I am fairly happy with the results. I have attached pictures of the "install" It was tricky lining the sticker up because the Lock When Lit cover is not symmetrical as you can see if you look closely at my photos AND... my artwork is! Take a look and let me know what you guys think . Thanks

I like it! I'll take one!

#1532 6 years ago

I like it! Put me down on the list when they are ready. Great job.

#1533 6 years ago

Indeed-super nice-great job!

#1534 6 years ago

That's actually really cool.

#1535 6 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Well here it is in action. I see that I have a little more work to do- like heavy up the line work on the astronauts and adjust the angle of the trim-out, where the side meets the door, but for a "one off" I am fairly happy with the results. I have attached pictures of the "install" It was tricky lining the sticker up because the Lock When Lit cover is not symmetrical as you can see if you look closely at my photos AND... my artwork is! Take a look and let me know what you guys think . Thanks

Looks great!

#1536 6 years ago

After work today, it's time to change out bad bulbs on my BOP again (there's always one necessitating the removal of the mini playfield...sigh!). Also out are all four of the inserts leading to the loop on the left (just right of the shuttle ramp entrance.) The loop still scores correctly, but they don't light up. I assume it's too much of a coincidence to be all four bulbs. If it's not the bulbs, what next?

#1537 6 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

After work today, it's time to change out bad bulbs on my BOP again (there's always one necessitating the removal of the mini playfield...sigh!). Also out are all four of the inserts leading to the loop on the left (just right of the shuttle ramp entrance.) The loop still scores correctly, but they don't light up. I assume it's too much of a coincidence to be all four bulbs. If it's not the bulbs, what next?

Power going to the light board. Check to makes sure the wires are intact, no cold solder joints, etc.

1 week later
#1538 6 years ago

Looks like some interesting stuff going on here. Here’s my BoP in (Australia) keeping the theme going (plus obvious friends). Excellent game to play, and was a little tricky to track down here. The wife insisted we get the Bride. I like the simple mods you can do to this era of Pin,.. I’m trying comets matrix posts to light it up a bit. I’ll be keeping an eye on these mods,.. the ball lock cover looks cool,.. the stock one is underwhelming given the rest of the stuff on the pin.

Will read thru all the posts,.. hoping to find answers to some nagging questions.

E8F7A087-8347-42E9-BA30-0117B8DBF5E9 (resized).jpegE8F7A087-8347-42E9-BA30-0117B8DBF5E9 (resized).jpeg

#1539 6 years ago

Not following updates on news lately, but I am looking for a playfield for my BOP. I contacted Peter in Germany and was "put on the list" and then a week leter he's requesting full payment as the PF is going out for clear? Is this company in good standing at the moment? Seems a little fishy as to how quick that happened unless my timing was impeccable(which it is usually not in my case).

Before I pull the trigger on a new one, if it's legit, does anyone here have one to sell?

Thanks, Jon

#1540 6 years ago
Quoted from jonpin:

Is this company in good standing at the moment?

I think we can only comment on our experiences. Mine was excellent, my playfield showed up looking great. There has been a long list, and like you, I jumped ahead when someone cancelled. My recommendation is to jump on this.

The only thing I can say is that some folks have seen some minor clearcoat "settling" around the insert edges after considerable time. This is a function of his clearcoating process and I'm sure improves with each batch. Even if you had one with this effect, you can always re-clear.

#1541 6 years ago
Quoted from jonpin:

Not following updates on news lately, but I am looking for a playfield for my BOP. I contacted Peter in Germany and was "put on the list" and then a week leter he's requesting full payment as the PF is going out for clear? Is this company in good standing at the moment? Seems a little fishy as to how quick that happened unless my timing was impeccable(which it is usually not in my case).
Before I pull the trigger on a new one, if it's legit, does anyone here have one to sell?
Thanks, Jon

It's legit, I have one.

#1542 6 years ago
Quoted from jonpin:

Not following updates on news lately, but I am looking for a playfield for my BOP. I contacted Peter in Germany and was "put on the list" and then a week leter he's requesting full payment as the PF is going out for clear? Is this company in good standing at the moment? Seems a little fishy as to how quick that happened unless my timing was impeccable(which it is usually not in my case).
Before I pull the trigger on a new one, if it's legit, does anyone here have one to sell?
Thanks, Jon

I was on his list for three years for the first batch. While it was a long, long wait, it was worth it. He is legit.

#1543 6 years ago

Yeah, I also have one of his PF's. Great quality job, I just don't care much for his sense of humor

#1544 6 years ago

Thanks guys. I was on the list years ago with Planetary Pinball IIRC, but never got a notice. Missed the boat. I just don't watch the forums like I used to. I'll go for it.

#1545 6 years ago

Does anyone know where you can get decals for both ramps?

#1546 6 years ago

Give Larry a call at Starship Fantasy. He may have some decals kicking around

#1547 6 years ago

I just finished installing the playfield I got from Peter and am more than happy with his product! Get one while he has them available you will not regret it

IMG_20180213_211307888 (resized).jpgIMG_20180213_211307888 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180213_211405320_LL (resized).jpgIMG_20180213_211405320_LL (resized).jpg

IMG_20180213_211545193 (resized).jpgIMG_20180213_211545193 (resized).jpg

#1548 6 years ago
Quoted from Nesta08:

I just finished installing the playfield I got from Peter and am more than happy with his product! Get one while he has them available you will not regret it

A thing of beauty.

#1549 6 years ago
Quoted from Nesta08:

I just finished installing the playfield I got from Peter and am more than happy with his product! Get one while he has them available you will not regret it

Where did you get the decals for inside the cabinet? I haven't seen that version before and I like that variation better than the others.

#1550 6 years ago

Not sure exactly it was a while back I ordered them. I did find the same ones for purchase.

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/bride-pinbot-pinball-sideblades/

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