(Topic ID: 132740)
Linked Games
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Slim64:Recently joined!
Welcome to the club, looks to be in great condition 
Saint Paul, MN
Try grabbing the astronaut picture, enlarging it then work your magic, when your done then put it on a new transparent layer then lay that on top of the background. I think that's the way I used to do it. Been so long. 
Quoted from Slim64:Recently joined!
Some photos the seller took before i picked it up. Plays great, time to open up the outlanes!
Congrats on the pickup!
So ive beeb debating pulling my mylar as its starting to bubble over inserts, I see in your playfield pics, there appears to be mylar over each insert, or are those the decals? I have them under my large playfield mylar sheet as well, so if it is double mylared, id consider removing it. If its just how the decals are, ill leave it be as it doesnt affect gameplay.
Quoted from gjm7777:Congrats on the pickup!
So ive beeb debating pulling my mylar as its starting to bubble over inserts, I see in your playfield pics, there appears to be mylar over each insert, or are those the decals? I have them under my large playfield mylar sheet as well, so if it is double mylared, id consider removing it. If its just how the decals are, ill leave it be as it doesnt affect gameplay.
Thank you
No mylar on mine, just keyline cracks at the inserts. IMO unless its a diamond plate playfield, i wouldnt recommend pulling the mylar unless you want to do touch ups, decals etc etc.
Quoted from Slim64:Thank you
No mylar on mine, just keyline cracks at the inserts. IMO unless its a diamond plate playfield, i wouldnt recommend pulling the mylar unless you want to do touch ups, decals etc etc.
Thanks for the advice, so those clear sticker looking pieces are just individual decals then?
Quoted from gjm7777:Thanks for the advice, so those clear sticker looking pieces are just individual decals then?
Could just be a bad photo, but there are no decals or mylar on mine.
Quoted from Slim64:Could just be a bad photo, but there are no decals or mylar on mine.
Oh man....why are your rubbers soooo dirty. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh man....why are your rubbers soooo dirty.
Sounds like he's having one hell of a honeymoon with his bride! 
Quoted from mollyspub:Sounds like he's having one hell of a honeymoon with his bride!
I'm glad YOU said that. 
Quoted from Slim64:Could just be a bad photo, but there are no decals or mylar on mine.
I swear I'm not crazy, I've highlighted the sticker ends that I see in the pic. I also have these on mine under my mylar sheet so just trying to figure out what they are
Quoted from gjm7777:I swear I'm not crazy, I've highlighted the sticker ends that I see in the pic. I also have these on mine under my mylar sheet so just trying to figure out what they are
That's not stickers, that's the insert edges. The inserts are covered in ink partially. Look under the play field, you will see the shape of the insert is different shape than the umm inked area and matches the outline you show
Quoted from Marvin:That's not stickers, that's the insert edges. The inserts are covered in ink partially. Look under the play field, you will see the shape of the insert is different shape than the umm inked area and matches the outline you show
That makes sense - I didn't realize it because of the factory mylar covering everything - Thanks!
With that, I'm going to leave the mylar in place for sure - the playfield looks great and you can only see the bubbles in regular sunlight.
How frustrating are those damn mini posts. The one above the pop bumper broke. What's the best way to ensure they are tight enough to hold, but not too tight that they break under pressure?
Any tips? Are you slowing the ball at the end of the ramp or anything to save the posts.
Any tips on removing the upper playfield in the easiest way possible?
Quoted from Draegermeister:How frustrating are those damn mini posts. The one above the pop bumper broke. What's the best way to ensure they are tight enough to hold, but not too tight that they break under pressure?
Nothing you can do about it, their fragile and break. Just be thankful they're not glued AND screwed on like Jackbot. Dumbest think I've ever seen.
No, just the original pattern of posts and I've never broken one.
No easy way but when ya do get it off clean and wax EVERYTHING under it and replace the rubbers and bulbs. 
Quoted from Draegermeister:Any tips? Are you slowing the ball at the end of the ramp or anything to save the posts.
I am wondering why the ball is going into your mini playfield at a speed that can break a mini post? Are you missing that little ball gate at the end of the ramp?
Quoted from Mancave:I am wondering why the ball is going into your mini playfield at a speed that can break a mini post? Are you missing that little ball gate at the end of the ramp?
Yeah that should not be happening.
So i worked out how to clean up the little dude images and redid the first draft. Whilst i was at it i also did another with the astronauts from the translite so here's the 2 choices so far. The only thing i need to add will be the cutouts on the right hand side where the 2 screws go and the rivet head that sits near the center. Sizing is pretty close although it may look way big in the pics. Thoughts?
Quoted from Mancave:So i worked out how to clean up the little dude images and redid the first draft. Whilst i was at it i also did another with the astronauts from the translite so here's the 2 choices so far. The only thing i need to add will be the cutouts on the right hand side where the 2 screws go and the rivet head that sits near the center. Sizing is pretty close although it may look way big in the pics. Thoughts?
I like the second one.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I like the second one.
Need any changes you think, placement of the dudes, alterations of the dudes, different dudes
Despite my thoughts that this one would look out of place with the play field plastics and the play field itself, using the coloured characters from the translite as it does. I think i'm leaning towards this one myself.
Quoted from Mancave:Need any changes you think, placement of the dudes, alterations of the dudes, different dudes
Despite my thoughts that this one would look out of place with the play field plastics and the play field itself, using the coloured characters from the translite as it does. I think i'm leaning towards this one myself.
With the second the dudes are brighter and more detailed.
Quoted from mollyspub:How about just this one... Easy
Yeah you could do that too, i was just trying to get something that matches where the plastic is situated so it blends in to it's place......well trying anyway
Checking switch levels on bride .. switch 24 popps up always closed as closed and face position switch 67 also comes on..
Is this normal ? And I can't find switch 24 on the diagram and what is the location of number 67 ? Is it inside the mechanism? And should it be popping up in tests?
Quoted from Milltown:Checking switch levels on bride .. switch 24 popps up always closed as closed and face position switch 67 also comes on..
Is this normal ? And I can't find switch 24 on the diagram and what is the location of number 67 ? Is it inside the mechanism? And should it be popping up in tests?
I assume switch 24 is closed always..
And I assume 67 is closed when the face stops on of the 4 faces .. but dam I can't find 67 or switch 24 ..
Canberra
Aligning the heartbeat ramp base? I've put a new heartbeat ramp onto my bride, and i have a gap between the end of the ramp and the shooter lane. i have about a 5mm gap between the height of the end of the ramp and the shooter lane wall, i know there is a screw point here to attach the ramp, but i feel it will twist the ramp too much. Any thoughts?
Quoted from Jodannar:Aligning the heartbeat ramp base? I've put a new heartbeat ramp onto my bride, and i have a gap between the end of the ramp and the shooter lane. i have about a 5mm gap between the height of the end of the ramp and the shooter lane wall, i know there is a screw point here to attach the ramp, but i feel it will twist the ramp too much. Any thoughts?
I had something similar happen with the ramp when I had replaced mine. I eventually got it to align properly. You might want to try repositioning it and seeing what is causing it not to sit down properly so that there isn’t a gap. I believe mine was affected by one of the posts. Good luck!
1 week later
Mancave, I got an idea, you don't have to do it. I'm not tryin to tell you what to do. Here's th idea imagine instead off matching the background of the machine, what if it were a intergalactic shipping crate or industrial sized shipping box, with USA and Nasa logos, where the stickers say light when locked, that is the end of the shipping container - the door and there are space men in spacesuits opening th door and crawling around the outside of th crate. Or it simply could be a hanger for the space shuttles. I am an illustrator and retoucher by trade. Let me sketch something up In the next week or so and. I will run it by you guys.
Quoted from Devilsmuse:Mancave, I got an idea, you don't have to do it. I'm not tryin to tell you what to do. Here's th idea imagine instead off matching the background of the machine, what if it were a intergalactic shipping crate or industrial sized shipping box, with USA and Nasa logos, where the stickers say light when locked, that is the end of the shipping container - the door and there are space men in spacesuits opening th door and crawling around the outside of th crate. Or it simply could be a hanger for the space shuttles. I am an illustrator and retoucher by trade. Let me sketch something up In the next week or so and. I will run it by you guys.
Sounds interesting, have a go.
Quoted from Devilsmuse:Mancave, I got an idea, you don't have to do it. I'm not tryin to tell you what to do. Here's th idea imagine instead off matching the background of the machine, what if it were a intergalactic shipping crate or industrial sized shipping box, with USA and Nasa logos, where the stickers say light when locked, that is the end of the shipping container - the door and there are space men in spacesuits opening th door and crawling around the outside of th crate. Or it simply could be a hanger for the space shuttles. I am an illustrator and retoucher by trade. Let me sketch something up In the next week or so and. I will run it by you guys.
Go for it be interested to see what you come up with.
Joining the club today, it’s been over twelve months in the making and almost there.
I’ve touched up/clear coated a few Gottlieb playfields, but after testing removal of the Mylar it didn’t look very promising.
I think this playfield was from Peters second run. WOW, a thing of beauty!
A slight hiccup with the PPS decal order, but was quickly shipped a right side replacement. Let’s hope if I ever scratch the sides, it’s going to be the left for my spare
My original bride lost all her red and yellow, hence the need for new decals.
The floor had to go, was warped, swollen and had that stink of damp wood smell.
I applied the head decal’s first using the wet method which was pain catching water, so bit the bullet and applied the cabinet ones dry. Super easy and the dry method is the way to go from now on.
My light panel was also swollen in places so made a new one. As you would know, BoP has lots of lamp holes!
Playfield reassembly and testing at home as it motivated me to hurry up and get my living room space back! Coin door has since been painted.
I’ve never used mirror blades before and think that I will install them on all machines from now on.
I have emailed Larry at Starship Fantasy a couple of times if the reproduction helmet is ever going to be made again, but looks like it’s never going to happen 
Someone in the past applied glow in the dark paint which glows green for hours after she’s off. Something different and has freaked me out a couple of times wondering around in the dark.
I have a Pinduino kit installed (which looks super cool on YouTube videos), but just can’t get it to work. Currently diagnosing the issue, hence the cables hanging out in the top right.
My 5V line is currently at 4.8V (no resets), with sporadic power up U6 checksum errors, so studying pinwiki about the 5V issues before asking lyonsden for assistance.
Another German container pin BoP bought back from the dead and really enjoying playing her with the new playfield. The sounds and call outs on this game are fantastic.
Don’t think the neighbours in my unit block are happy with my pinball though 
Hope that 3D translite becomes available to purchase one day.
Quoted from OzPaul:Joining the club today, it’s been over twelve months in the making and almost there.
Hope that 3D translite becomes available to purchase one day.
You might want to check with mayuh on that
.
Quoted from OzPaul:Joining the club today, it’s been over twelve months in the making and almost there
Welcome to the club, machine looks great
Mine is still some months away from resto but your pics are making me antsy, lol
Another Paul in the club?, might be too many now i vote MP out 
Quoted from OzPaul:I have a Pinduino kit installed (which looks super cool on YouTube videos), but just can’t get it to work. Currently diagnosing the issue, hence the cables hanging out in the top right.
My 5V line is currently at 4.8V (no resets), with sporadic power up U6 checksum errors, so studying pinwiki about the 5V issues before asking lyonsden for assistance.
Feel free to ping me and I'm happy to walk through some diagnostics (or send you another pinduino to let you test if that is the problem). The 12V power the arduino and the 5V powers the LEDs. Do you see a light on the Arduino when it is connected? Also, if possible, check the power at the pinduino. There is an extra power port that you can probe to make sure it is getting 12V and 5V. If it is not getting power, check the power harness (which I can send you a replacement as well.) Hope to help get you up and running with the pinduino as quickly as possible. Feel free to PM me and I'll send you replacement parts to help you get things sorted out.
Quoted from OzPaul:Joining the club today, it’s been over twelve months in the making and almost there.
I’ve touched up/clear coated a few Gottlieb playfields, but after testing removal of the Mylar it didn’t look very promising.I think this playfield was from Peters second run. WOW, a thing of beauty!
A slight hiccup with the PPS decal order, but was quickly shipped a right side replacement. Let’s hope if I ever scratch the sides, it’s going to be the left for my spare
My original bride lost all her red and yellow, hence the need for new decals.
The floor had to go, was warped, swollen and had that stink of damp wood smell.
I applied the head decal’s first using the wet method which was pain catching water, so bit the bullet and applied the cabinet ones dry. Super easy and the dry method is the way to go from now on.
My light panel was also swollen in places so made a new one. As you would know, BoP has lots of lamp holes!
Playfield reassembly and testing at home as it motivated me to hurry up and get my living room space back! Coin door has since been painted.
I’ve never used mirror blades before and think that I will install them on all machines from now on.
I have emailed Larry at Starship Fantasy a couple of times if the reproduction helmet is ever going to be made again, but looks like it’s never going to happen Someone in the past applied glow in the dark paint which glows green for hours after she’s off. Something different and has freaked me out a couple of times wondering around in the dark.
I have a Pinduino kit installed (which looks super cool on YouTube videos), but just can’t get it to work. Currently diagnosing the issue, hence the cables hanging out in the top right.
My 5V line is currently at 4.8V (no resets), with sporadic power up U6 checksum errors, so studying pinwiki about the 5V issues before asking lyonsden for assistance.Another German container pin BoP bought back from the dead and really enjoying playing her with the new playfield. The sounds and call outs on this game are fantastic.
Don’t think the neighbours in my unit block are happy with my pinball though
Hope that 3D translite becomes available to purchase one day.
Super job you did on your Bride. Welcome to the club.
Quoted from lyonsden:Feel free to ping me and I'm happy to walk through some diagnostics (or send you another pinduino to let you test if that is the problem). The 12V power the arduino and the 5V powers the LEDs. Do you see a light on the Arduino when it is connected? Also, if possible, check the power at the pinduino. There is an extra power port that you can probe to make sure it is getting 12V and 5V. If it is not getting power, check the power harness (which I can send you a replacement as well.) Hope to help get you up and running with the pinduino as quickly as possible. Feel free to PM me and I'll send you replacement parts to help you get things sorted out.
All good now Eric, turned out that I just needed to re punch the ground wire on the J118 connector.
Would highly recommend any Pinduino kit, it really lights up the face on BoP
My apologies for the bad power harness, but great to hear that it was a simple fix (and that you found the problem quickly). Glad you like the Pinduino kit for BoP! One of my favorites.
Quoted from PPS:Bride of Pinbot 3D Translites are now in stock and available
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPM-3D-BOP-TRANSLITE
That's pretty sick. I'm emotionally attached to my mirrored backglass, but this probably would look better.
Quoted from PPS:Bride of Pinbot 3D Translites are now in stock and available
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPM-3D-BOP-TRANSLITE
Dam man
. Very cool
Quoted from jsa:That's pretty sick. I'm emotionally attached to my mirrored backglass, but this probably would look better.
Same here....and money wise too, wasn't it $249. But I tell ya my RFM looks sooooo sweat. If they come out with Jackbot I'm in.
1 week later
Quoted from Devilsmuse:Let me sketch something up In the next week or so and. I will run it by you guys
Any updates?
I'm still having the same issue when I get to head 3 and drain, sometimes it moves correctly back to the left (2nd face) but sometimes it moves to the right and is off (4th face). This happens maybe every 20 rotations (so it works right most of the time) but then it glitches up. I just swapped out the A-13892-2 hoping this would solve the problem but I'm still having the same problem so I put the old one back in. Any other ideas? Here's the picture of the board.
Quoted from Yesh23:I'm still having the same issue when I get to head 3 and drain, sometimes it moves correctly back to the left (2nd face) but sometimes it moves to the right and is off (4th face). This happens maybe every 20 rotations (so it works right most of the time) but then it glitches up. I just swapped out the A-13892-2 hoping this would solve the problem but I'm still having the same problem so I put the old one back in. Any other ideas? Here's the picture of the board.
This sounds like an intermittent position switch. There is a rollover switch which, depending on whether it falls into the face chassis depression at different times, tells the game what face is up. If it falls out of sync, you might get strange behavior.
When I first got my BoP, I was also having really weird head issues.
I had cold solder joints on the A-13892-2 regulator board and also on this A-14423-1 relay board:
As others have mentioned, the head position roller switch can be a bit finicky!
Adjusting this switch can drive you nuts. Sometimes works great for a while and then back to random head issues.
Before you adjust this switch, grab the head face assembly and see if there excessive forward/backward motion on the head mounting pivot brackets. The head assembly is mounted to the playfield with six screws (I used bolts/washers) and if you loosen the lower two (black arrows), you can remove this excess movement first and then correctly adjust the roller switch.
Someone else posted that the manual incorrectly states a 17/64 x ½” washer should be under the white wheel drive. This original washer can cause the wheel to ride slightly lopsided as it rotates and not only causes binding (with a random ‘clunk’ noise), it can also mess up your previously adjusted head position adjustments.
A smaller diameter washer with the same thickness fixes that issue.
These three things helped me get my head unit to now work perfectly.
Good luck, hope it helps!
Paul.
Quoted from OzPaul:When I first got my BoP, I was also having really weird head issues.
I had cold solder joints on the A-13892-2 regulator board and also on this A-14423-1 relay board:As others have mentioned, the head position roller switch can be a bit finicky!
Adjusting this switch can drive you nuts. Sometimes works great for a while and then back to random head issues.
Before you adjust this switch, grab the head face assembly and see if there excessive forward/backward motion on the head mounting pivot brackets. The head assembly is mounted to the playfield with six screws (I used bolts/washers) and if you loosen the lower two (black arrows), you can remove this excess movement first and then correctly adjust the roller switch.Someone else posted that the manual incorrectly states a 17/64 x ½” washer should be under the white wheel drive. This original washer can cause the wheel to ride slightly lopsided as it rotates and not only causes binding (with a random ‘clunk’ noise), it can also mess up your previously adjusted head position adjustments.
A smaller diameter washer with the same thickness fixes that issue.These three things helped me get my head unit to now work perfectly.
Good luck, hope it helps!
Paul.
That's some great advise, thanks for posting. 
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