(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0


By MustangPaul

4 years ago



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There are 1753 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 36.
#1151 2 years ago

Cliffys yes! I had a few days between when I put new ramps in and when the cliffys went in and I worried every time someone played (the old ramps were quite well beaten up at the entrances). Also the cliffys tend to put a spin on the ball such that the frequency of drains from weak shots up the heartbeat ramp has decreased pretty substantially--great side effect!

Take the time to clean up the spots that are inaccessible when ramps are installed.

Working with some of the posts under the heartbeat ramp was a bit of a pain (maybe unless you have small fingers).

And you will have to desolder and then resolder several of the switches so be prepared for that.

Being gentle with screws has already been said. You're planning to take photos. Can't think of anything more... Good luck!

#1152 2 years ago

Thanks for all the tips!! I will now attempt to find my soldering iron and related items. Having moved across country a short time ago, they are still in a box................somewhere.........on a shelf in the garage......maybe. LOL.

The ramp protectors are next on the list to get but everything seems to have a budget/time line. The joys of reality.

#1153 2 years ago

Here is my first question about replacing the LH Shuttle Ramp. At the very top of the ramp is a part called the Ball Gate Actuator. It controls the ball going to the mini playfield or going down onto the face assembly. It was a real pain to remove since the two wires going to the coil didn't have much play. The two wires are both Violet/Yellow. I would like to use a Molex connector with longer leads off the coil to allow easier installation now and replacement if ever needed. Question - I don't see any diode across the terminals so is there any polarity to this coil?

A 14406 Coil (resized).jpg

#1154 2 years ago

I would say no polarity on the coil. Measure resistance with meter then flip the leads, you should get the same reading either way.

#1155 2 years ago

I am finally in. Diamond plated love.
Could use one plastic if anyone has one, left inlane, with names on it.

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#1156 2 years ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

I am finally in. Diamond plated love.

Some guys get all the pretty girls

#1157 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Some guys get all the pretty girls

You can buy love, just get it from Peter in Hamburg!

#1158 2 years ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

I am finally in. Diamond plated love.
Could use one plastic if anyone has one, left inlane, with names on it.

Hey Jim, the OCD board works great with this game. Welcome to the club.

#1159 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

The ones with yellow inserts are prototype playfields.

Mine has the yellow inserts and diamond plated playfield

#1160 2 years ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Mine has the yellow inserts and diamond plated playfield

SWEET, if that's an original in great shape it's probably worth 2 of the regular one's in similar condition. I don't believe there were too many made of the prototype playfield. I have one now but it's a repro

#1161 2 years ago

My next question..... How do you get the front off the Pinbot Values to replace the bulbs? This is the piece of plastic that is at the top of the Pinbot mini playfield that has 3 point value windows. I tried removing the two fasteners and that didn't seem to accomplish anything.... especially since they didn't come all the way out. Thanks for any help!

Pinbot Bonus Lamps (resized).JPG

#1162 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

My next question..... How do you get the front off the Pinbot Values to replace the bulbs? This is the piece of plastic that is at the top of the Pinbot mini playfield that has 3 point value windows. I tried removing the two fasteners and that didn't seem to accomplish anything.... especially since they didn't come all the way out. Thanks for any help!

It is attached from the back by nuts which you are not going to get to without taking out the PF. Fortunately, the bulbs are in black screw sockets (like under the playfield) and can be reached if you have the PF up at 45 degrees (using the PF support bar.) Not the easiest to replace, but not impossible when leaving the PF in the game.

#1163 2 years ago

I'm getting ready to swap all the flashers over to led and was curious if they're all 89/906?

#1164 2 years ago

Everything that I have found in the backbox and playfield so far has been 89 and 906.

Thanks lyonsden for the help on removing the plastic cover. I shall attack it again with renewed gusto!

#1165 2 years ago

Just a note to say that Comet Pinball has a great sense of humor! Today I received a shipping confirmation from them and it was really funny. It would be worth it to order from them this time of year just to read their shipping notice.

#1166 2 years ago

Hey folks. I'm about to start a playfield swap. Can someone tell me what is supposed to be screwed into this t-nut? It's empty (nothing screwed into it). Nothing is on the playfield here, it's just an empty hole.

IMG_4069 (resized).JPG

#1167 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Nothing is on the playfield here, it's just an empty hole.

I'm missing the T-nut entirely on my machine but i'm wondering if there may have been a support hex screwed to the underside of the end of the egg crate plastic. It's pretty close to lining up directly under that hole.

#1168 2 years ago

Just took a look on my game.....is it the t-nut that holds the wireform for the shooter?

#1169 2 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

Just took a look on my game.....is it the t-nut that holds the wireform for the shooter?

That could be it. I'll confirm when I'm back in front of it.

#1170 2 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

Just took a look on my game.....is it the t-nut that holds the wireform for the shooter?

Nope, that's not it.

#1171 2 years ago

I am not sure if this would be very useful, but I made a layout showing where playfield bulbs are located and what type. These would be the bulbs under the plastics, bumper caps, and the egg crate. I thought it might help someone who wanted to order LED's but wasn't sure of the quantity or location. If it is too incorrect, let me know and I will change it or delete the post.
Pink = 555
Green = 89 flashers
Red = 44/47

Bare PF (resized).jpg

#1172 2 years ago

Hello guys my machine has a problem with second face multiball. When both eyes are covered the balls are released and "blocked" by the plunger. The face turns and the plunger goes down once, letting only one ball to come down. The other gets stuck in the position pictured so the system doesn't know that it is there!

It is released only if you send another ball up or if you lose the ball and the pin starts the ball check..can you help me solve this problem? I've already checked the switch and they work well..are the ball supposed to go down both togheter or the plunger needs to go down 2 times?

Thanks for the help!!

IMAG0080 (resized).jpg

#1173 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys my machine has a problem with second face multiball. When both eyes are covered the balls are released and "blocked" by the plunger. The face turns and the plunger goes down once, letting only one ball to come down. The other gets stuck in the position pictured so the system doesn't know that it is there!
It is released only if you send another ball up or if you lose the ball and the pin starts the ball check..can you help me solve this problem? I've already checked the switch and they work well..are the ball supposed to go down both togheter or the plunger needs to go down 2 times?
Thanks for the help!!

It should release each ball with a bit of a delay between them. Since you game is going into ball search, check to make sure that the first switch is working using the switch test. Use the ball in the ramp rather than your finger as it may not be pressing the switch in far enough.

#1174 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys my machine has a problem with second face multiball. When both eyes are covered the balls are released and "blocked" by the plunger. The face turns and the plunger goes down once, letting only one ball to come down. The other gets stuck in the position pictured so the system doesn't know that it is there!
It is released only if you send another ball up or if you lose the ball and the pin starts the ball check..can you help me solve this problem? I've already checked the switch and they work well..are the ball supposed to go down both togheter or the plunger needs to go down 2 times?
Thanks for the help!!

Looking at your picture, it looks like to me the front switch is too far back and not closed. You can see that front switch blade behind your ball and it shouldnt be that way. If that switch is working in the switch test, looks like to me it just needs to be adjusted so the ball sits against it. Here is a picture of mine for reference. Notice the ball has the switch closed when in place. Hope that helps, I think its an easy fix.

Ball Holder 2 (resized).jpg

#1175 2 years ago

Fourbyracer you got it! The switch is correctly pressed when a single ball is up there (voice activated). When two balls are up, the switch are both correctly pressed (in fact the eyes are activated). The problem comes when the first ball is released and the second goes down too much, remaining between the plunger and the front switch! My plunger can jiggle a little (is yours fixed in its position?) and maybe the ball keeps it pressed too much down. But it seems strange because, when a single ball is up, there isn't this kind of problem and the switch is correctly pressed.

Anyway the switches cannot be moved up or down (only a bit left and right) they are fixed to the ramp! Is the problem in the plunger movement?

Hope to be understandable thank you guys!

#1176 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Fourbyracer you got it! The switch is correctly pressed when a single ball is up there (voice activated). When two balls are up, the switch are both correctly pressed (in fact the eyes are activated). The problem comes when the first ball is released and the second goes down too much,...

To my untrained eye, your switch blade looks like it is angled to much back. Since nothing in that area is really adjustable, I would bend it more forward to make sure the ball cannot get past it without keeping it closed. Bend it forward some and I think that just might work.

#1177 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Hey folks. I'm about to start a playfield swap. Can someone tell me what is supposed to be screwed into this t-nut? It's empty (nothing screwed into it). Nothing is on the playfield here, it's just an empty hole.

That T nut is where the screw that holds the left upper long leg of the skill shot ramp goes. Just looked at mine. I did a complete re-build in August. Tryng to sell it now.

#1178 2 years ago

Finally in da club. Could not pass up a 1300 bride. Going to clean her up and stick in the game room. If anyone has any shop out and led recommendations I would appreciate it.

IMG_20161204_102955 (resized).jpg

#1179 2 years ago

Welcome to the club woody, hope it's in good shape. The OCD board is a MUST HAVE for this game, your pf will light up perfectly with leds in it. Also my purple LED Leg Light-Ups look great on the game along with beatmasters shooter housing light up.

#1180 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Finally in da club. Could not pass up a 1300 bride. Going to clean her up and stick in the game room. If anyone has any shop out and led recommendations I would appreciate it.

Welcome to the club. My favorite LEDs for GI are natural frosted twin 2835 from Comet: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Color match most of the inserts (avoid yellow and orange).

I also added a couple of spots above the slings in mine to brighten the center of the PF, and some purple flex heads to shine at the top of the the left/right loops and the mini playfield. Finally, I did replace the caps on my pops with clear and added slow color changing LEDs.

In terms of shopping it -- depends on how deep you go. Flipper rebuild is a must, new sleeves in all the coils, replace any worn plungers and linkages. If you get into the head, take apart the gearbox, clean, and lube with Super Lube:

#1181 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to the club woody, hope it's in good shape. The OCD board is a MUST HAVE for this game, your pf will light up perfectly with leds in it. Also my purple LED Leg Light-Ups look great on the game along with beatmasters shooter housing light up.

thanks Paul, I got a good deal. Cab has some fade and There is one insert in the lower playfield with some issues. Looking forward to getting it cleaned up.

#1182 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Welcome to the club. My favorite LEDs for GI are natural frosted twin 2835 from Comet: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
Color match most of the inserts (avoid yellow and orange).
I also added a couple of spots above the slings in mine to brighten the center of the PF, and some purple flex heads to shine at the top of the the left/right loops and the mini playfield. Finally, I did replace the caps on my pops with clear and added slow color changing LEDs.
In terms of shopping it -- depends on how deep you go. Flipper rebuild is a must, new sleeves in all the coils, replace any worn plungers and linkages. If you get into the head, take apart the gearbox, clean, and lube with Super Lube:
ยป YouTube video

Thanks for info! I always like to ask before I dig into a game I know nothing about.

#1183 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Finally in da club. Could not pass up a 1300 bride. Going to clean her up and stick in the game room. If anyone has any shop out and led recommendations I would appreciate it.

Nice pick up your actually paid a reasonable amount for it, if it's in better than average condition you did quite well.

#1184 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Color match most of the inserts (avoid yellow and orange).

OR!!! Clean the underside of the inserts REALLY good and put those clear dome 2835's in there. The facets of the inserts sparkle like a new Stern and you can see the decals better, your not color bombing the inserts. Give it a try.

#1185 2 years ago

I've bended it a bit and hen cleaned the whole assembly putting on a new coil bushing and.. It seems to be solved for now! thank you!!

I have to understand why the bop bumpers aren't much sensitive, only a strong ball activate them..tomorrow I'll try cleaning them too!

#1186 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

OR!!! Clean the underside of the inserts REALLY good and put those clear dome 2835's in there. The facets of the inserts sparkle like a new Stern and you can see the decals better, your not color bombing the inserts. Give it a try.

Hmm. I'll give this a try. Normally, I like the green/blue/red with color matched LEDs as it makes the inserts look really good. However, are you talking about this dome for the extra sparkle?

2SMDFD-2T (resized).jpg

#1187 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Hmm. I'll give this a try. Normally, I like the green/blue/red with color matched LEDs as it makes the inserts look really good. However, are you talking about this dome for the extra sparkle?

No the clear dome, the "sparkle" so to speak comes from the the way the sharp white light reacts with the insert facets.

#1188 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Finally in da club. Could not pass up a 1300 bride. Going to clean her up and stick in the game room. If anyone has any shop out and led recommendations I would appreciate it.

LED Recommendation - Use Incandescent bulbs. If you do use LEDs, use white for GI and colors that match for inserts only. You asked...

#1189 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

I've bended it a bit and hen cleaned the whole assembly putting on a new coil bushing and.. It seems to be solved for now! thank you!!
I have to understand why the bop bumpers aren't much sensitive, only a strong ball activate them..tomorrow I'll try cleaning them too!

This has a LOT to do with how close the contacts are as well. The switch blades should be as flat as possible and the activators replaced because they can wear over time in the spoon. My friends comment all the time that my pop bumpers are too sensitive. I like them that way!

#1190 2 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

This has a LOT to do with how close the contacts are as well. The switch blades should be as flat as possible and the activators replaced because they can wear over time in the spoon. My friends comment all the time that my pop bumpers are too sensitive. I like them that way!

pops and slings that don't self activate can never be too sensitive.

#1191 2 years ago

Thanks for all the help on replacing ramps and lamps. There is a lot to be learned from just doing it one time. It is interesting how all the gates and switches interact to provide the play flow. I polished all the plastics and was amazed at how clear they became and how dirty the microfiber towel became at the same time. I installed plastic savers under the plastics and am pleased with how they fit and look. Next up will be the Cliff protectors for the ramps. I decided to get a new soldering iron since my usual one is 20 years old. The new one is a soldering station type with rheostat and such.....and it worked a treat! I replaced switch covers and added new ones to the naked ones up top. The two large black ones got replaced with orange ones from FunHouse to tie in with the orange on that ramp. All the playfield lamps topside got LED's and so did the backbox. I lied......3 didn't get replaced.....the Pinbot Value lamps near the top of the mini playfield proved too much of a pain so they are untouched. I need to invite lyonsden over for dinner and con him into the contortions needed.

LED additions are sort of a brain game. You have to figure out what you want areas to look like, then (if this is your first time with LED's) make a guess at brightness and lens type, and finally be prepared to move/change some lamps to reach your vision. I went with Comet's lamps for most of my items. I used Natural White under the slings and flipper returns. The rest of the main playfield got Ice Blue, the pop bumpers got 6 LED fan shaped red bulbs, and the helmet got blue Comfort bulbs. All LED lenses are frosted. I love the playfield as it looks now. It has a clean look down at the bottom and a subtle tinting of blue elsewhere. New ramps let you see so much that was too dark to see that it is amazing. You can follow the ball over the entire playfield now and when the new flashers go off, it is wonderful.

The backbox was harder than the playfield for me to figure out. It is mostly Natural White and Ice Blue with a few other highlights. Some of the fun things are the Flame LED under the apple, the slow color changers for the brides 4 faces near the speakers, and the ultra purple lamp behind the wine glass. I used frosted lenses where I could and may change a few to clear (the bonus values up her leg). All in all, I am happy with the outcome and have a new respect for those who have nicely colored machines of any title. It isn't the easiest thing to make come out perfect when you replace over 100 bulbs. My hat is off to those of you who do it!

#1192 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

Thanks for all the help on replacing ramps and lamps. There is a lot to be learned from just doing it one time. It is interesting how all the gates and switches interact to provide the play flow. I polished all the plastics and was amazed at how clear they became and how dirty the microfiber towel became at the same time. I installed plastic savers under the plastics and am pleased with how they fit and look. Next up will be the Cliff protectors for the ramps. I decided to get a new soldering iron since my usual one is 20 years old. The new one is a soldering station type with rheostat and such.....and it worked a treat! I replaced switch covers and added new ones to the naked ones up top. The two large black ones got replaced with orange ones from FunHouse to tie in with the orange on that ramp. All the playfield lamps topside got LED's and so did the backbox. I lied......3 didn't get replaced.....the Pinbot Value lamps near the top of the mini playfield proved too much of a pain so they are untouched. I need to invite lyonsden over for dinner and con him into the contortions needed.
LED additions are sort of a brain game. You have to figure out what you want areas to look like, then (if this is your first time with LED's) make a guess at brightness and lens type, and finally be prepared to move/change some lamps to reach your vision. I went with Comet's lamps for most of my items. I used Natural White under the slings and flipper returns. The rest of the main playfield got Ice Blue, the pop bumpers got 6 LED fan shaped red bulbs, and the helmet got blue Comfort bulbs. All LED lenses are frosted. I love the playfield as it looks now. It has a clean look down at the bottom and a subtle tinting of blue elsewhere. New ramps let you see so much that was too dark to see that it is amazing. You can follow the ball over the entire playfield now and when the new flashers go off, it is wonderful.
The backbox was harder than the playfield for me to figure out. It is mostly Natural White and Ice Blue with a few other highlights. Some of the fun things are the Flame LED under the apple, the slow color changers for the brides 4 faces near the speakers, and the ultra purple lamp behind the wine glass. I used frosted lenses where I could and may change a few to clear (the bonus values up her leg). All in all, I am happy with the outcome and have a new respect for those who have nicely colored machines of any title. It isn't the easiest thing to make come out perfect when you replace over 100 bulbs. My hat is off to those of you who do it!

Glad to see you had fun and learned a thing or two.

#1193 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

I used Natural White under the slings and flipper returns. The rest of the main playfield got Ice Blue, the pop bumpers got 6 LED fan shaped red bulbs, and the helmet got blue Comfort bulbs. All LED lenses are frosted. I love the playfield as it looks now. It has a clean look down at the bottom and a subtle tinting of blue elsewhere.

Sounds like nice choice of colors for LEDs and switch covers! Have any new pictures of the backbox and playfield that you can upload?

#1194 2 years ago

This is carved in Stone: I suck at taking photos! So with that in mind, here are some of the backglass and playfield.

The brightly lit playfield photo is just to show the new ramps, the orange switch covers, and the plastic protectors. It's things you all have seen before but for me it is a really nice transformation just to see through the ramps now.

The dark playfield is blurry at the top and the glass reflects badly but......it shows the natural white at the bottom and the ice blue coloring further up the surface.

The backglass rocketship on the left side has a slow color changer behind it and the apple has a flame bulb. Both have a fun color changing aspect to them that really makes me just stare at them. The 4 faces at the bottom are actually pretty evenly lit but look sort of uneven in the photo. The color changers behind them will sometimes all synchronize for a few seconds and then they all split off on coloring and after a few minutes they synch again. Once again, it's fun to just watch them. (I amuse very easily)

Backglass1 (resized).JPG

Playfield1 (resized).JPG

Playfield2 (resized).JPG

#1195 2 years ago

The backglass really comes off with a warm glow in the photo--looks nice!

#1196 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

This is carved in Stone: I suck at taking photos! So with that in mind, here are some of the backglass and playfield.
The brightly lit playfield photo is just to show the new ramps, the orange switch covers, and the plastic protectors. It's things you all have seen before but for me it is a really nice transformation just to see through the ramps now.
The dark playfield is blurry at the top and the glass reflects badly but......it shows the natural white at the bottom and the ice blue coloring further up the surface.
The backglass rocketship on the left side has a slow color changer behind it and the apple has a flame bulb. Both have a fun color changing aspect to them that really makes me just stare at them. The 4 faces at the bottom are actually pretty evenly lit but look sort of uneven in the photo. The color changers behind them will sometimes all synchronize for a few seconds and then they all split off on coloring and after a few minutes they synch again. Once again, it's fun to just watch them. (I amuse very easily)

Pictures look nice to me. Nice job. Next time you take pf pictures take the glass off.

#1197 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

I need to invite lyonsden over for dinner and con him into the contortions needed.

Okay, I agree. I happen to live in the same town as lyonsden, and well, he has been extremely helpful. Just purchased a BOP, so I am in the club. Have not started the restoration except did purchase a playfield from Peter in Germany and the new cabinet decals. I too, have never restored a pin, but lyonsden has provided excellent advice and guidance. Someone else who has been helpful is my friend at work a true woodworker, a craftsman. I showed him pictures of my cabinet and backbox where the edges are really rough in spots. He suggested a woodworker's trick - using car bondo. I will let you know how that works.

#1198 2 years ago

looks good by the sling shots.

#1199 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

I need to invite lyonsden over for dinner and con him into the contortions needed.

Next time I am in your neck of the woods, I'd be happy to help!

#1200 2 years ago
Quoted from Triplecdad:

He suggested a woodworker's trick - using car bondo

Car bondo works very well for divots/dents in the cabinet as well as edges, but if you have a very beat up corner, you may want to use something stronger (fiberglass and resin) otherwise a bump on the corner while moving the machine can cause the bondo to pop out. But, I am happy to help you out!

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