(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0


By MustangPaul

4 years ago



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  • 1,769 posts
  • 158 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 37 days ago by RCA1
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There are 1769 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 36.
#901 3 years ago

Equally as bad. I think when whoever originally "repaired" it soldered, they jumped traces. I'm going to attemp to clean it up and see what I can do with it tonight. There are no broken traces that I have found so far, just crummy solder joints.

#902 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Equally as bad. I think when whoever originally "repaired" it soldered, they jumped traces. I'm going to attemp to clean it up and see what I can do with it tonight. There are no broken traces that I have found so far, just crummy solder joints.

You can do that kind of repair?

#903 3 years ago

Well I cleaned it up and put the new header pin in. Checked all my connections from pin to the end of that trace and everything was good. Nothing was jumping and all seemed to check fine. Go to plug the game in and still nothing, but the f108 fuse didn't blow! Now the yellow and purple gi wiring has continuity between them but goes away after I unplug j115 female plug.

I'm seriously so lost and stressed on this whole thing

#904 3 years ago

It looked like that left side fuse clip might need replacing also. I wouldn't even try to do what you did.

#905 3 years ago

The fuses check ok out of the board as well as connection to connection from the back side board traces. I'm thinking it's something in the j115 female plug but I don't know what.

#906 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

The fuses check ok out of the board as well as connection to connection from the back side board traces. I'm thinking it's something in the j115 female plug but I don't know what.

Well cut it off and put a new one on.

#907 3 years ago

Hi all! Is there a way to remove the head motor with the playfield only raised in the machine? I removed the cage and the two screws at the top of the motor but it looks like I have to remove the cube somehow to get to more screws. Anyone care to share some tips?

#908 3 years ago

This just showed up today

image_(resized).jpeg

#910 3 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

Hi all! Is there a way to remove the head motor with the playfield only raised in the machine? I removed the cage and the two screws at the top of the motor but it looks like I have to remove the cube somehow to get to more screws. Anyone care to share some tips?

I recall that those screws are on the top of the playfield and located under the shuttle ramp. You'll have to take the ramp off to get to them, which you can do with the PF in the game.

#911 3 years ago

Has anyone converted to the wpc slides instead of a single pivot to make access to the pf easier?

#912 3 years ago
Quoted from pincredible:

Has anyone converted to the wpc slides instead of a single pivot to make access to the pf easier?

I've never heard of anyone. Looks like you'd be the first.

#913 3 years ago
Quoted from pincredible:

Has anyone converted to the wpc slides instead of a single pivot to make access to the pf easier?

Is that actually possible? , if so, great idea

#914 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Is that actually possible? , if so, great idea

Only one way to find out. Who's gonna be the craftsman to figure this out.

#915 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

those screws are on the top of the playfield and located under the shuttle ramp

Rats! I was hoping for an easier removal. Thanks for your input lyonsden!

#916 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

When ya doin the swap?

gotta finish my extended vacation first. But as soon as I get back its on!! Got a pinduino for it too.

#917 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Only one way to find out. Who's gonna be the craftsman to figure this out.

So not volunteering for that one but definitely interested in the results

#918 3 years ago
Quoted from Morydees:

So not volunteering for that one but definitely interested in the results

Yeah me too. For it to work someone would have to put the Stern inside cab metal slide rails on along with the pf metal stops on the back of the pf. A real pain to get everything in the proper position.

#919 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah me too. For it to work someone would have to put the Stern inside cab metal slide rails on along with the pf metal stops on the back of the pf. A real pain to get everything in the proper position.

Even if someone figures it out, I'm leaving mine the same, for me part of owning the machine is learning to work around its idiosyncrasies

#920 3 years ago

Just in case anyone is looking, I put a nice bop in the marketplace last night.

#921 3 years ago

Still can't figure out the gi issue and it's making me crazy. Like literally losing sleep over this

#922 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Still can't figure out the gi issue and it's making me crazy. Like literally losing sleep over this

Check list for diagnosing...

Find it in Schematics

Trace down physical problem and repair

Check voltages throughout when repairing

Send board(s) in for repair when insanity sets in

Have other games to play while boards are being repaired

Bummer world to live in

Quoted from Its_me_aj:Well I cleaned it up and put the new header pin in. Checked all my connections from pin to the end of that trace and everything was good. Nothing was jumping and all seemed to check fine. Go to plug the game in and still nothing, but the f108 fuse didn't blow! Now the yellow and purple gi wiring has continuity between them but goes away after I unplug j115 female plug.
I'm seriously so lost and stressed on this whole thing

Are you checking voltages as you go, to make sure, with plugs plugged in and not plugged in?

#923 3 years ago

Checked everything again very carefully. Was reading voltage throughout every point around 6ac. Buzzed every connection and everything was checking ok for continuity. Then I had an idea. Where the previous repair was was pretty hacked at pin 11 on j115. I reconnected the wire into the female plug and then just held a jumper wire from 11 to pi! 1 on Q14. IT WORKED!!! So I took the board back out and put a jumper wire in and now everything is working correct! I'm pretty stoked on myself as well as the help from others getting this corrected!! Thanks everyone for your help!!!

#924 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Checked everything again very carefully. Was reading voltage throughout every point around 6ac. Buzzed every connection and everything was checking ok for continuity. Then I had an idea. Where the previous repair was was pretty hacked at pin 11 on j115. I reconnected the wire into the female plug and then just held a jumper wire from 11 to pi! 1 on Q14. IT WORKED!!! So I took the board back out and put a jumper wire in and now everything is working correct! I'm pretty stoked on myself as well as the help from others getting this corrected!! Thanks everyone for your help!!!

#925 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Checked everything again very carefully. Was reading voltage throughout every point around 6ac. Buzzed every connection and everything was checking ok for continuity. Then I had an idea. Where the previous repair was was pretty hacked at pin 11 on j115. I reconnected the wire into the female plug and then just held a jumper wire from 11 to pi! 1 on Q14. IT WORKED!!! So I took the board back out and put a jumper wire in and now everything is working correct! I'm pretty stoked on myself as well as the help from others getting this corrected!! Thanks everyone for your help!!!

Good job!

#926 3 years ago

Is the big Shuttle insert on the left supposed to be lit all the time? I put the OCD board in and some of the inserts are acting funny, some flickering as they fade in and out while others look great. I tried no flick and regular leds from different companies and no change.

2 weeks later
#927 3 years ago

How can I buy a copy of the modified L-6 Rom? I have BOP and mine is on version 1, I have LEDs and am trying to purchase a rom but people only sell the official ones so my choices are L-6 without LED patch or L-7 which I do not want for obvious reasons.

#928 3 years ago
Quoted from sbjmg:

How can I buy a copy of the modified L-6 Rom?

Try contacting John Wart Jr. Either PM him on here or email through his site http://www.thatpinballplace.com/. I think he will custom burn roms by request. He has made a few for me that are not listed on his site.

#929 3 years ago

Here is a link to download the L8 Rom which fixes the billion point bug on from L7 and has the LED ghosting patch applied: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvmcyqbrowfas1q/Tmbopl_8b.rom?dl=0

#930 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Here is a link to download the L8 Rom which fixes the billion point bug on from L7 and has the LED ghosting patch applied: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvmcyqbrowfas1q/Tmbopl_8b.rom?dl=0

BADASSERY!

#931 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Here is a link to download the L8 Rom which fixes the billion point bug on from L7 and has the LED ghosting patch applied: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvmcyqbrowfas1q/Tmbopl_8b.rom?dl=0

Anyone able to burn a rom chip for me?? I don't have the facilities to do that

#933 3 years ago

Thanks I got the L6 with LED patch and it worked great. Really cleaned up the crown on her head as I had switched those to LEDs.
FYI John Wart Jr does not burn modified roms due to licensing issues.

#934 3 years ago

Next request. Does anyone have a high quality image of the backglass / translite? I wanted to have a new one printed. If that is against the rules I would be willing to take some artistic liberties with it prior to producing it for my personal home use. This is not meant for resale/profit. Thanks

2 weeks later
#935 3 years ago

Hey guys I need some fuse help. My 8 amp, 32v NB on the lamp driver board fuse blew and all my GI lights are out and I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have a lead for me?

#936 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey guys I need some fuse help. My 8 amp, 32v NB on the lamp driver board fuse blew and all my GI lights are out and I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have a lead for me?

Do they have to be 32v, or can they be 250?

I see the 250 on eBay

#937 3 years ago

The chart in the game, the manual and what I pulled out it has to be 8 amp, 32v. When that fuse blew the 18v light on the power board went out but the 5 and 20v stayed on. What the heck does NB for that 8 amp 32v fuse mean? 8 amp, 32v NB?????

#938 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

What the heck does NB for that 8 amp 32v fuse mean? 8 amp, 32v NB?????

I can only guess No Blow, which kinda defeats the purpose of a fuse in the first place
Not sure what else it could be MP?

#939 3 years ago

Hey, guys. I have been helping Paul through PMs, and I just stumbled on this post. Now I know what game it's installed in.

A couple of things I've told him in the PMs:

1. NB is normal blow, which is kind of a medium, between slow and fast. Using a fast blow in place of a normal blow would always be safe, but it may end up blowing more often than it should.

2. A 250V would be fine. The voltage rating on a fuse just needs to be higher than what you are protecting. You can use a 250V in place of a 32V, but not a 32V in place of a 250V.

3. The fuse in question is for the insert lights, not the GI. If the GI is out as well, something in addition to the 8A fuse is going on with the game. Also, when an 8A fuse blows, proceed with caution. 8A is a lot of current in this context, so you're likely to have a short that's trying to burn things up.

#940 3 years ago

Herg has been real helpful but it's the power driver board so I'm not messing with it, I have a call out to John at Pinball Plus, he has worked on some of my games and does a great job.

#941 3 years ago

Got my Bop Saturday.

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#942 3 years ago

Looks in great shape!

#943 3 years ago
Quoted from erak:

Got my Bop Saturday.

Welcome to the club, she looks to be in fine shape. Has that been redecaled?

#944 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to the club, she looks to be in fine shape.

Thanks!
It was a bit rough. Mostly dirt. And a couple of bad transistors. I tore the playfield down cleaned it with alcohol and magic eraser.
Novus on the plastics. New rubbers and leds.
But over the last day, and thanks to a search on pinside of common head tracking errors. (Cracked solider on the relay) I got it 100℅ working.

#946 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to the club, she looks to be in fine shape. Has that been redecaled?

No, original cab decals.

#947 3 years ago

Does anyone have measurements of the wire of the one way gate that operates just down from the pop bumper area? The current gate wire in my machine isn't right (it doesn't allow the gate to operate one way and so balls can drain relatively quickly) and gates aren't available for purchase from sources I've seen and so I am planning to bend my own gate wire from piano wire, but I would like to get it bent as correct as possible.

And I am a relatively recent owner of a bride and have very much enjoyed reading through this forum--learned a bunch! Thanks!

#948 3 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

Does anyone have measurements of the wire of the one way gate that operates just down from the pop bumper area? The current gate wire in my machine isn't right (it doesn't allow the gate to operate one way and so balls can drain relatively quickly) and gates aren't available for purchase from sources I've seen and so I am planning to bend my own gate wire from piano wire, but I would like to get it bent as correct as possible.
And I am a relatively recent owner of a bride and have very much enjoyed reading through this forum--learned a bunch! Thanks!

Can't help at the moment on measuring... But maybe bailing wire or something besides piano wire?

#949 3 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

Does anyone have measurements of the wire of the one way gate that operates just down from the pop bumper area? The current gate wire in my machine isn't right (it doesn't allow the gate to operate one way and so balls can drain relatively quickly) and gates aren't available for purchase from sources I've seen and so I am planning to bend my own gate wire from piano wire, but I would like to get it bent as correct as possible.
And I am a relatively recent owner of a bride and have very much enjoyed reading through this forum--learned a bunch! Thanks!

I don't know why no suppliers have this in stock, it's commonly missing or incorrect. Mine had none, I looked at photos and made my own using one of those big chromed paperclips. It works properly, but I still wish I had the real thing.

#950 3 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

Does anyone have measurements of the wire of the one way gate that operates just down from the pop bumper area?

This should help you out although it's in metric but i'm sure you'll be able to convert the measurements no worries. Sorry about the colour on the second pic, i printed the first pic out so i could write on the measurements but the printer was bang out of ink
The 14mm length on the right hand side bends towards the camera (the rest is sitting flat on the bench). I estimate the bend upwards is between 35 to 40 degrees. All measurements are to the outside of the bends if that makes sense. By the way, i should also mention that the bar the gate attaches to is in the correct orientation to the machine, so the open end is held down by a locknut and the other is screwed down to the wooden rail. The wire is backwards in the photo, so the 14mm bent end goes towards the open end of the bar. Ummm hope that's clearer than mud

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