Knoxville, TN
I just posted a thread about my BOP head turning around and around like the exorcist. Please take a look and give any suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
(Topic ID: 132740)
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Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
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I gonna have an extra set of cab decals. Picked up an extra set with a Machine that is getting ready for the total makeover. Can send pics
My son had friends over last night and turned on bop without me knowing it. I went to play some pinball and noticed it was on and ready to play. Hit start and game played with no problem. For now at least my phantom issue is gone as quick as it came. Hopefully it stays that way.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:My son had friends over last night and turned on bop without me knowing it. I went to play some pinball and noticed it was on and ready to play. Hit start and game played with no problem. For now at least my phantom issue is gone as quick as it came. Hopefully it stays that way.
After reading through the attached link and then your last post i gotta agree with the cracked solder joint scenario. The longer a machine has been left on then everything obviously heats up so a dodgy joint starts to work better. I had a similar issue with an unrelated machine (Daytona USA), the longer it was left turned on then the problem "Temporarily" resolved itself
Woo-hoo! I finished the first two BoP Pinduino kits! 
They took a bit longer than expected due to having to design a new WPC Pinduino Board and an adaptor board to get clearance off the power driver board. They are packed and ready to be shipped to the first two testers.
The next set of tester kits should be ready in a week or two. I ran out of board-mounted plugs due to the new adaptor boards (which doubles the number I need per kit).
Also, I've update the instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MLP6dfrXEHKzagEaGHgIDAJDE9ru7fXbJFnbxBFeEaE/edit
If anyone want to build this themselves, the complete list of parts is at the top of the instructions. Feel free to PM me if there are any parts or steps that I missed or are not clear, or if you have any questions.
Quoted from lyonsden:The next set of tester kits should be ready in a week or two. I ran out of board-mounted plugs due to the new adaptor boards (which doubles the number I need per kit).
Also, I've update the instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MLP6dfrXEHKzagEaGHgIDAJDE9ru7fXbJFnbxBFeEaE/edit
If anyone want to build this themselves, the complete list of parts is at the top of the instructions. Feel free to PM me if there are any parts or steps that I missed or are not clear, or if you have any questions.
awesome job and looks great ... instructions look good to me. Waiting patiently for the next batch.
1 week later
Quoted from BigDan:Does BOP have the standard John Trudeau flipper gap?
Flipper gap is the same as most WPC and System 11 Williams games.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Morydees:Looking forward to my set arriving!
Looks like there will be 3 of us.
Hamburg
Hello to all.
The boards have been printed and the first clear has been applied. We have to wait a bit so that the clear coat can settle.
Then we will sand them down and send them for the second clear coat.
Wish you all a nice day.
Regards from Hamburg
Peter
http://www.buthamburg.de
1 week later
Quoted from lyonsden:Anyone know how to cut these to size?
I would freeze it before cutting chop saw would work if frozen
Quoted from wierdeer:I would freeze it before cutting chop saw would work if frozen
Which I could remember what this was in reference to. Can't find my post on wanting to cut something.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Thank you guys, They look much better in person, the pics don't do them justice.
Picked up a set even though I've got a extra set of discontinued arcade skin decals !
Quoted from lyonsden:Which I could remember what this was in reference to. Can't find my post on wanting to cut something.
It was in reference to the skill shot rubber donuts
1 week later
I Was wondering if anybody thinks it would be possible to do a mod kinda like cftbl hologram screen on the last two faces in bop? Would be great for 2.0... Obviously you couldn't use eyes and mouth faces cause they have holes but pretty sure you could fit a screen or two on other two and maybe wire them thru a 360 degree rotating switch. Thoughts anybody?
Quoted from Chosen_S:Thank you guys, They look much better in person, the pics don't do them justice.
Surprised there's no pics posted yet...
Quoted from mollyspub:Surprised there's no pics posted yet...
I guess no one has installed them? Only took me 20 or so minutes with the playfield still in proped up
Quoted from mollyspub:Surprised there's no pics posted yet...
I'm saving mine for when my game gets redone. I had to get them now when they were available. 
Quoted from Chosen_S:I guess no one has installed them? Only took me 20 or so minutes with the playfield still in proped up
Wow, that quick eh? I've been crazy busy at work and haven't touched the machine in a while but you might have just convinced me. Either way, when I do finally get in there I'll definitely post pics!
Quoted from MustangPaul:I'm saving mine for when my game gets redone. I had to get them now when they were available.
Gonna order extra sets... Just in case 
Quoted from mollyspub:Gonna order extra sets... Just in case
No, with the pf out they'll go in easy.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I guess no one has installed them? Only took me 20 or so minutes with the playfield still in proped up
First off, the blades look amazing. Unrolled them today and was just about to install but I noticed I've got some pretty tight clearance when raising the playfield. There's slight black paint wear equally on both sides so it doesn't seem like it's off center. Having never done blades on a pin before, is this just something funky with my cabinet? Slight wood expansion based on climate or simple factory variance? The last thing I want to do is wreck these beauties.
edit: After further experimenting it seems like my PF can rock slightly left or right 2-3mm, meaning the area closest to the front of the machine gets occasional friction. I guess there's some play in how the PF hooks rest on the bolts since they just rest on it. Hmm...
Quoted from Morydees:First off, the blades look amazing. Unrolled them today and was just about to install but I noticed I've got some pretty tight clearance when raising the playfield. There's slight black paint wear equally on both sides so it doesn't seem like it's off center. Having never done blades on a pin before, is this just something funky with my cabinet? Slight wood expansion based on climate or simple factory variance? The last thing I want to do is wreck these beauties.
edit: After further experimenting it seems like my PF can rock slightly left or right 2-3mm, meaning the area closest to the front of the machine gets occasional friction. I guess there's some play in how the PF hooks rest on the bolts since they just rest on it. Hmm...
That's one of the reasons I'm not putting mine on now. When I redo my cab I'm going to sand the heck out of those sides to increase the pf clearance and maybe even sand the sides of the pf too.
Quoted from MustangPaul:That's one of the reasons I'm not putting mine on now. When I redo my cab I'm going to sand the heck out of those sides to increase the pf clearance and maybe even sand the sides of the pf too.
I believe sanding the pf some will help the most... I recently did the whole 9 to my MM, and I sanded the cab like crazy, it didn't make a difference, I should have sanded the pf, I had room on the pf to remove 1/16" from both sides. One day I may do it , but for now the pf on that MM will scrape the walls every time
Quoted from Chosen_S:I believe sanding the pf some will help the most... I recently did the whole 9 to my MM, and I sanded the cab like crazy, it didn't make a difference, I should have sanded the pf, I had room on the pf to remove 1/16" from both sides. One day I may do it , but for now the pf on that MM will scrape the walls every time
Interesting, thanks. Do you still have extra sets for sale by chance? I don't really have plans to pull my PF any time soon so I may just try sanding the front 12-16" with a shop-vac and some sheets to cover the area. They look too good to sit in the tube for a few months so as long as you have more, I'll risk it 
On the bright side, I did get lyonsden's slick Pinduino kit for the ramp/head lights installed today along with some much needed Cliffy's for the return lanes. Ball hop was fierce. I should have some pics/vids of the Pinduino up soon but I did snap a pic of the blades before packing them up again.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I believe sanding the pf some will help the most... I recently did the whole 9 to my MM, and I sanded the cab like crazy, it didn't make a difference, I should have sanded the pf, I had room on the pf to remove 1/16" from both sides. One day I may do it , but for now the pf on that MM will scrape the walls every time
Thanks, that's good to know.
Quoted from Morydees:On the bright side, I did get lyonsden's slick Pinduino kit for the ramp/head lights installed today along with some much needed Cliffy's for the return lanes. Ball hop was fierce. I should have some pics/vids of the Pinduino up soon but I did snap a pic of the blades before packing them up again.
I'll be watching for that.
Here ya go Paul. Cross-posting in case the Pinduino thread I originally put it in ever goes away.
Installed my Pinduino kit with lyonsden's code this weekend and it turned out great. I was initially interested because of the ramp but the brightening of the head area really brings the machine alive. That and the effect during Jackpot were pleasant surprises and are two of my favorite things about it. Since pictures really can't do it justice, I took some video during testing. In it you've got all the major events like Metamorphosis (@4:00)and Jackpot (@5:20) so you can see the various effects.
I also documented most of the installation from the perspective of someone who did not want to remove the playfield. Eric warned me it might be tight but he was right that it was possible. It took about 90 minutes to install and a good chunk of that was tidying up cable runs and getting the left ramp LED strip lined up juuuuust right. The parts involved:
Pinduino_Kit_(resized).jpg
Board assembly before inserting into J126. This is the 0.3b version.
Pinduino_Before_Install_(resized).jpg
The unit installed into J126. The extension pass-through allows the cables behind to pass through freely without being pinches. Not pictured is the J118 power connection off to the left powering the board.
Pinduino_J126_Installed_(resized).jpg
Installation of the head LEDs. I made sure to run cables over the top so they don't interfere with the rotating head. Much easier if you have the playfield out as you can tie it up behind for extra protection. NOTE: If your gap between the black metal frame and plastic is very tight, you might consider some tape/heat shrink around the wires to protect from pinching since you've got two sets on this side. Mine had decent clearance so I went without.
Pinduino_Head_LED_(resized).jpg
Here you can see how tucked in the head LEDs are once installed. It's hidden well enough that you don't see them at all from normal play position but you may catch a glimpse walking up from the side. I doubt this would bother most people but there's enough room under the helmet to get creative if you want. A 1"X6" black plastic piece glued to black metal bracket could extend it upward into the helmet plastic another 1/2" to 3/4" to hide it even higher up.
Pinduino_Head_Hidden_(resized).jpg
To get the left ramp LED strip in, I ran it from under the playfield, out the lower left ramp hole and along the back of the ramp without removing anything else. PF removal is obviously preferred if you can but I'm good at improvising and fairly patient, even with my big hands taking up space. I started by bending the strip gently until it had a bit of curve to it so I could better feed it around the posts and up to the right, above the head. I then poked the end out above the head plastic so I could remove about a half-inch of the double sided tape cover. This way only a very small part would stick at any given time, allowing me to stick/unstick it until I had it lined up right.
Pinduino_LED_Strip_Running2_(resized).jpg
Once I had the sticky end in place, I carefully pulled off the rest of the protective cover, making sure to keep it level/tight by gently pulling from the lower left ramp area where the LED strip was first inserted (next pic below). This way it sort of "hugged" the curve of the ramp as I peeled back slowly and evenly. Every few inches or so I would stop, bend my fingers around to the back side and press the strip to the plastic to affix it. Eric's warning in the instructions about the tape being incredibly sticky are 100% accurate so take your time here and be sure to only press down when you're sure.
Pinduino_LED_Strip_Peeling_(resized).jpg
The other end of the strip at the left ramp entrance. I worked my way from the top down to this area after making sure the LED length was accurate with a dry test fit.
Pinduino_Strip_Running3_(resized).jpg
Last but not least, tidying up the cables by running them through the original factory wire loom. All in all, a fairly simple project with great bang for the buck that looks amazing right out of the box...and it's customizable if you want to tinker with it. I couldn't be happier with the end result. Thanks Eric!
Pinduino_J126_Tidy_(resized).jpg
Just reading all the BOP posts. Just bought another one. I'd sold the other years back when I got out of the hobby. MY first pin again now since 05. Bought a new playfield from Peter. I have a new set of insert decals and I'm going to make to old playfield look like a white wood. Going to strip and sand it and apply several coats of clear. I have a good used set of used plastics and a heartbeat ramp that I've replaced and would sell all for $50.00 + shipping. I beefed up the entrance with ball guide metal where it was broken.
Quoted from Morydees:Installed my Pinduino kit with lyonsden's code this weekend and it turned out great. I was initially interested because of the ramp but the brightening of the head area really brings the machine alive. That and the effect during Jackpot were pleasant surprises and are two of my favorite things about it. Since pictures really can't do it justice, I took some video during testing. In it you've got all the major events like Metamorphosis (@4:00)and Jackpot (@5:20) so you can see the various effects.
» YouTube video
I also documented most of the installation from the perspective of someone who did not want to remove the playfield. Eric warned me it might be tight but he was right that it was possible. It took about 90 minutes to install and a good chunk of that was tidying up cable runs and getting the left ramp LED strip lined up juuuuust right. The parts involved:Board assembly before inserting into J126. This is the 0.3b version.
The unit installed into J126. The extension pass-through allows the cables behind to pass through freely without being pinches. Not pictured is the J118 power connection off to the left powering the board.
Installation of the head LEDs. I made sure to run cables over the top so they don't interfere with the rotating head. Much easier if you have the playfield out as you can tie it up behind for extra protection. NOTE: If your gap between the black metal frame and plastic is very tight, you might consider some tape/heat shrink around the wires to protect from pinching since you've got two sets on this side. Mine had decent clearance so I went without.
Here you can see how tucked in the head LEDs are once installed. It's hidden well enough that you don't see them at all from normal play position but you may catch a glimpse walking up from the side. I doubt this would bother most people but there's enough room under the helmet to get creative if you want. A 1"X6" black plastic piece glued to black metal bracket could extend it upward into the helmet plastic another 1/2" to 3/4" to hide it even higher up.
To get the left ramp LED strip in, I ran it from under the playfield, out the lower left ramp hole and along the back of the ramp without removing anything else. PF removal is obviously preferred if you can but I'm good at improvising and fairly patient, even with my big hands taking up space. I started by bending the strip gently until it had a bit of curve to it so I could better feed it around the posts and up to the right, above the head. I then poked the end out above the head plastic so I could remove about a half-inch of the double sided tape cover. This way only a very small part would stick at any given time, allowing me to stick/unstick it until I had it lined up right.
Once I had the sticky end in place, I carefully pulled off the rest of the protective cover, making sure to keep it level/tight by gently pulling from the lower left ramp area where the LED strip was first inserted (next pic below). This way it sort of "hugged" the curve of the ramp as I peeled back slowly and evenly. Every few inches or so I would stop, bend my fingers around to the back side and press the strip to the plastic to affix it. Eric's warning in the instructions about the tape being incredibly sticky are 100% accurate so take your time here and be sure to only press down when you're sure.
The other end of the strip at the left ramp entrance. I worked my way from the top down to this area after making sure the LED length was accurate with a dry test fit.
Last but not least, tidying up the cables by running them through the original factory wire loom. All in all, a fairly simple project with great bang for the buck that looks amazing right out of the box...and it's customizable if you want to tinker with it. I couldn't be happier with the end result. Thanks Eric!
Thanks for posting that. I'm gonna have to get this mod.
Quoted from JanS:Just reading all the BOP posts. Just bought another one. I'd sold the other years back when I got out of the hobby. MY first pin again now since 05. Bought a new playfield from Peter. I have a new set of insert decals and I'm going to make to old playfield look like a white wood. Going to strip and sand it and apply several coats of clear. I have a good used set of used plastics and a heartbeat ramp that I've replaced and would sell all for $50.00 + shipping. I beefed up the entrance with ball guide metal where it was broken.
Welcome back!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Thanks for posting that. I'm gonna have to get this mod.
Yeah, it's pretty slick. I should grab the software and see what else I can tinker with/customize. Here's one more quick vid closer up with end-game/attract.
Quoted from Morydees:Welcome back!
Yeah, it's pretty slick. I should grab the software and see what else I can tinker with/customize. Here's one more quick vid closer up with end-game/attract.
» YouTube video
You had the glass on the game for this one and the camera tried to focus on the glass.
Quoted from MustangPaul:You had the glass on the game for this one and the camera tried to focus on the glass.
Whoops, looked decent on skimming but you're right. I'll grab more next time I have it off but it gives you a rough idea of the glare/angle off the LEDs. Come to think of it, I wonder if Comet is planning on doing RGB versions of their slick frosted strips...
Quoted from Morydees:I wonder if Comet is planning on doing RGB versions of their slick frosted strips...
That would be up to the new owner to decide but I agree it would be slick. But using those inexpensive effects modules that come with the RGB strips is that I find they don't do a very good job of fading between the colors, they tend to do more of a jump, only holding a solid color (RGB) for just a fraction of a second. They really piss me off and ruin the fade effect.
I bought RGB strips that were encased in hard plastic, 4 strips a controller and a 4 input hub and those fade just beautifully but are very spendy. You can tell that the controller has good electronic circuits inside.
Quoted from Morydees:Here ya go Paul. Cross-posting in case the Pinduino thread I originally put it in ever goes away.
Man, I hope the pinduino thread doesn't go away! Seriously, wonderful write up and thanks again for taking all the photos of the installation. If anyone is interested in a kit (or making this yourself and just wants a Pinduino), feel free to send me a PM.
Quoted from lyonsden:Man, I hope the pinduino thread doesn't go away! Seriously, wonderful write up and thanks again for taking all the photos of the installation. If anyone is interested in a kit (or making this yourself and just wants a Pinduino), feel free to send me a PM.
I'm going to install mine ASAP now, looks beautiful
Morydees; I'm so glad you yell at your bride like I do mine
Quoted from Morydees:Yeah, it's pretty slick. I should grab the software and see what else I can tinker with/customize. Here's one more quick vid closer up with end-game/attract.
Code for this and everything else I've written for the Pinduino is 100% free and open source (GPL). Please clone it, mod it, develop something better, post it, share it, and send me a pull request (happy to add it to the code base).
Quoted from Chosen_S:Morydees; I'm so glad you yell at your bride like I do mine
Haha, you bet I do. I was actually trying not to say much since I was documenting but I couldn't help it and that slipped through
Quoted from Morydees:Haha, you bet I do. I was actually trying not to say much since I was documenting but I couldn't help it and that slipped through
It's hard to do especially when you have people over.
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