I guess I am in too. Prototype #2 baby!
--Scott

So what do we talk about in these threads, I think you all have asked me enough questions.
--Scott

Yes, progress is still being made. No worries guys.
--Scott

No worries at all. We just wanted to make sure everyone was aware of our current status.

This is correct. We will be giving the option for you to upgrade to the Color DMD for the same cost as the LED DMD would have been. We feel this is a far superior technology and will not even be offering the standard DMD kits anymore.

Hey Al,
I believe all the parts of the kits will be assembled in the US and shipped from here. We are trying to make it as streamlined and affordable as possible. This is not final, but we will keep you posted when we have more information. Thanks,
--Scott

Hey Brad,
Who said we were having "licensing issues"? We are just in the final stages of the license agreement with the respected companies. This is a very common thing for the licensors to approve the final design of a product that contains their IP. Nothing to worry about. We were just being respectful and stopping pre-orders until we get the final word from the companies.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks,
--Scott

This has not been finalized, but will be communicated before the kits ship.

I suspect you are asking because of the bug that is in the L-7 version. At this point the rom version is not selectable. We will not package the code with a rom that has the mutliplayer bug in it.

Thanks,
--Scott

Keep in mind that if Planetary Pinball updates the roms for BoP, we could potentially include it as an update or instruct our customers how to download the images from PPS and update the roms on the machine themselves (depending on the legal fine print). This has been taken into consideration. Thanks,
--Scott

No worries man. It's all good.

Hey Al,
The speaker system we will be using for the kits contains 5 inch speakers and subwoofer. We have not put in the final production order yet, so please hold off on buying anything for your kit. The computer will be using an analog stereo output to the external amplifier (standard headphone jack). The Amp will be handling everything (including crossover and EQ) except for the pre-amp volume, which will be handled by the computer via the service buttons.

Thanks,
--Scott

I think you may end up spending more on parts than our kits would have cost. We are using Flipper Fidelity speakers with active crossovers. It's actually a really loud system. We overpowered 3 WOZ machines at expo last year and we were only on about 70%. Sorry guys, I know it was loud, but we definitely drove it hard to prove reliability.
--Scott

Vishay Displays will no longer be included in this kit. We are going to be including color displays for all full orders at no extra cost. If you want to upgrade your prior pre-order (that did not include a display) to include the color display, send an email to [email protected] and we can modify it for you. If you already ordered a full kit, you don't need to do anything, you are covered.

We are still definitely making progress with the kit. Stay tuned.

--Scott

I got that email too!
--Scott

Hey Ed,
The Bride 2.0 system will completely replace your stock WPC sound system. I also removed my sound board when I installed the kit as it is not needed. This kit will come with a new amplifier and speaker set, which includes a new subwoofer.

Cheddar,
Mods typically use 12vdc that you can grab from the power supply just like any other machine. You should probably not connect anything to the power supply on the P-ROC that could possible damage it, even though it could technically be possible. I would just not recommend it.

Hope this helps. Thank you guys for your continued support!

--Scott

Thanks for the write-up!

I am not sure if you guys saw this, but Koen has posted a list of the current trophies in the Dutch Pinball Forums.

http://www.dutchpinball.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=40

--Scott

Hey Guys,
No need to worry about the Bride kits. All parts are accounted for and the imaging of the drives for the US kits will be done during the next week and a half.

Please reach out to me if you have any questions.

Thanks guys,
--Scott

The US games will be shipping with at least v1.09. As for finalizing the Bride code, I don't have a specific date, but we are actively working on it. We plan on making incremental updates as we progress through the rest of the project.

Right now, my number 1 priority is getting you guys your kits.

--Scott

Very nice Thomas! I am glad you found an adapter that works. For the record, which USB to serial adapter did you use?

Thanks,
--Scott

We do not hate you!
--Scott

If using the external power supply for the display, you can safely put the original fuse back in.

Thomas,
Please reach out to Barry if you are having trouble with your 12v power after upgrading. The European kits did not seem to have an issue with the display power, but the US test kits did.

Thank you,
--Scott

Barry does not hate you either.

Also a bunch of work went into the audio from our very skilled musician/audio engineer!

[email protected]!

Hey Guys,
We have seen a couple of people that install the kit and new switch errors show up. Not sure exactly why. It could be a difference of how the P-ROC registers switch hits as opposed to the original hardware or something coming loose during the install. All in all, it is just a simple adjustment and things get right back to normal.
--Scott

Yes you can.

--Scott

Al, you can put a small UPS on the computer and your wall switch will work the same for this game as all your other games! Just be sure that only the computer is attached to the UPS.

--Scott

What?!?

--Scott

HAHAHA! Good stuff.

Mark, you should be using a CSSC in your CCC!

http://scottdanesi.com/WP/?page_id=398

--Scott

Brad,
I apologize, this was my fault. I must have sent you the wrong surge protector. You can either get the crimp connectors yourself, or I can send them to you. Another option would be to install the service outlet in your machine while you have it open. Please send me a note.

Thanks man,
--Scott

Does the trough work properly in 1.0?

That sounds like you may have a flaky switch somewhere in there that the P-ROC is not picking up properly. I would look around and check for any cold solder joints or switches that may be unreliable.
--Scott

I am not sure about that, but will definitely look into it. Interesting find.
--Scott

You guys will not be disappointed!

As Koen said earlier, please be careful installing anything on these PCs as it could potentially have negative effects on performance.
--Scott

Yes, please make sure to report what you find if you are a beta tester. This will help us out greatly.

Thank you,
--Scott

Brad, this is great to hear! Glad you are back up and running.
--Scott

Brian, who is this "JES" person? You better get back in there!
--Scott

Don't worry, only those with the link to the live site below can see you playing!

http://www.dutchpinball.com/bop2/live/

YEAH BRIAN! Great game.
--Scott

Social Engineering is the scariest part of hacking, and how Vince would probably get access to the machine if it was off.

Any of you live people want to play a quick game of Bride 2.0 against me? You are allowed 1 game, no restarts, high score wins. Make sure to use your profile.

Check back here when you finish your game:
http://www.dutchpinball.com/bop2/live/

Who is in? Will start at 3pm CST sharp.

--Scott

Well, I just played my game and it was a drain-fest! Only did 1,819,350. Everyone should be able to beat that.

--Scott

HAHA NICE!

Still beat my terrible score.
--Scott

HAHA, yeah, I never claimed to be good at pinball!

Yeah that looks pretty catastrophic. Have not seen that kind of breakage in a while.

Yeah from the looks of it, it looks like it has been rattling around for a while.

Good time to swap out the sleeves while you are in there!

Wait a minute... Are you telling me that the reproduction face plastics sometimes let the ball fall through the face into the cube? WTH?

I did as well, but I have been taking my machine to Expo for 2 years.

--Scott

The PC should fit snugly onto the mounting plate. If not, bend the tabs slightly until the fit is tight. It should not move at that point.
--Scott

Nice job Swinks! Looks great.
--Scott

I got to play a game last night with the legendary Mr. 68! Too bad, we both did poorly...

http://www.dutchpinball.com/bop2/live/scott

Hey Guys,
Koen has just updated the BoP 2.0 Live page. You can now sort by Machine, Activity, Grand Champ, and Trophies!

http://www.dutchpinball.com/bop2/live/

--Scott

Have you guys seen the animations for the 2nd Multiball yet?

Hey Everyone,
For those Beta Testers that want to get their hands on a Flipper Mod kit for the BoP 2.0 project, I have made a small test run of 10 units available on my website.

http://www.danesidesigns.com/products/aux-flipper-switch-hookup-board/

Please note, that you need to be running BoP version 1.102 or greater to be able to utilize this kit in the software.

Once these 10 are gone, I will begin another run which should take a week or two. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you,
--Scott Danesi

You guys got it! Thanks for clarifying.

Also, I just want to point out that this kit is completely optional. If you do not mind the flippers flipping when entering initials, playing video mode, etc. then feel free to pass on this one. We are in no way trying to nickel and dime you.

This kit just makes the machine feel more like the newer machines of the 90's+.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

--Scott

Hey Brad,
Yes, this kit will allow for the flippers to be deactivated during high score entry.

Thanks,
--Scott

Anyone get to Multiball 2 yet with the glass on?
--Scott

That is the toughest part! You will need to shoot the heartbeat ramp and then immediately shoot the shuttle ramp in order to lock a ball. Other wise it will make you try again. It's really cool. The animations in this multiball are just simply amazing.

--Scott

Yeah, that score is pretty crazy. I would like to see if anyone can throw down a score like that on a version >= 1.102!

It's on the list!

I hope so too! for me, it adds a whole level of "new feeling" to the game.

Hey Cheddar,
That is very strange behavior that I do not see on my machine. The balls release fine when starting Multiball 1, but do not release if starting multiball 1 a second time? Is this consistent behavior every single time? Thanks,
--Scott

Thanks for the info, I am going to look into that and see what could be causing it. Please also send this info to [email protected] so we can add it to the list of potential issues. Please also include your version number as I believe you are on v1.102.

Thanks man,
--Scott

Not that many machines online for a Friday night!

Al, did you get your flipper kit?

--Scott

Also, it looks like nobody has logged into their online profiles and created any video mode levels!!!

videomodecreator.png

Your password to your profile was given to you in an email from Koen a while back.

Look forward to seeing some crazy stuff!!!

--Scott

See at the top of my screenshot, you can select your 6 different levels. Other users levels will show up in the dropdown for you to use. If you want to go back to stock just pick dp_level1, dp_level2, etc.

See if the level I created is listed for you to use.

--Scott

You have to mark the level as public. There is a checkbox for that when you create it.

You can install Teamviewer on the machine and then you can access it whenever you want from another PC.

I use it on all my P-ROC machines, it just makes life easier. Also makes the machine more open to hackers, which is nice.

Hey Vince, it is a letter v.

Also, you can select a pre-made level as a starting point by clicking the 'Select' dropdown box just above the preview window.

The info at the bottom of the page sums up how to do it quite well.

Videomode guidelines

Building blocks:

# - Basic road block.
* - Basic coin: 25K points.
O - PIN*BOT letter coin: (100K * level) points (so 100K, 200K, 300K depending on the level).
^ - Speed boost. To increase difficulty and speed of decision making.
v - Reverse block. The car will start going backwards after touching this block.
s - Landmark of a Space Shuttle. Purely for decoration. Can be placed left or right from the middle of the level.
b - Landmark of the Bride's boots. Purely for decoration. Can be placed left or right from the middle of the level.
i - A lamp post. Purely for decoration. Can be placed left or right from the middle of the level.

Guidelines:

The start and finish of each level are static; you can't change them. You can use the above building blocks to create the middle of each level. The level's maximum width is 9 tiles/characters.
Take a look at the Dutch Pinball's level 1 to level 6 to get a feeling for how those levels are built.
The idea is the player can collect exactly six "O" coins to respell PIN*BOT if he drives the perfect route. These letters that are collected actually help respell PIN*BOT towards liting the next videomode round, so if the player aces the level, the videomode should be lit automatically.

Which 2 lamps are ghosting?

I know that Koen put some code adjustments in place a while back that reduced the overall ghosting on the machine, but there are a few machines that are still seeing a small amount of it.

For your case, I would put ghost busters in it to eliminate the issue.

Thanks,
--Scott

Very interesting. My machine has 0 ghosting issues (just verified), but I am using Cointaker anti-ghosting LEDs throughout.

Anyone else having ghosting issues?

Thanks,
--Scott

Yeah, that is really bad ghosting. I am curious if others are having this same issue.

Thanks,
--Scott

I still need to check that one out!

Ed Robertson from Barenaked Ladies showing off his Bride of Pinbot 2.0!!!

I definitely dig the song as well!
--Scott

USB updates will always be supported. That functionality is not going away.
--Scott

BetaBrite 4 Life!!!!

Nice gameplay video! Thank you for putting that together and getting it up for everyone.

--Scott

Did you install the Startup/Shutdown controller in your game? How did you hook it up? What do the LEDs on the controller do during a shutdown or startup?

The Green LED indicates machine power (main power switch on), the Yellow LED indicates current PC status (on/off), and the Red LED illuminates with relay activity.

Let me know and I can see about helping out.

Thanks,
--Scott

Hey Everyone,
So a few people are having startup difficulty on the 2nd batch of bride kits. I was walking a customer through the issue and we found 2 things that were causing trouble on his machine.

The first problem:
The computer was not shutting down after the machine was powered off. The first issue was caused from the computer BIOS having ERP support disabled. This setting should be enabled by default.

The second problem:
The computer not starting up properly from a cold boot. This is caused by the 5v on some machines is not quite high enough to trigger the startup controller properly. Currently, the CSSC cable from the P-ROC to the startup controller is providing 5vdc from the P-ROC. If your 5v is not strong enough and you are experiencing issues starting up, you can swap the pins on this cable to pull the 12v connection from the P-ROC on that same cable. Please only do this if you are experiencing an issue.

The picture below shows the pin-out pulling 12v from the P-ROC.
cssc_cable_(resized).png

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions you may have. Hope this helps!

Thank you,
--Scott

Hey There,
Did you update the BIOS setting on your PC? Also, let the machine completely shut down before attempting to restart it and see if that clears up the issue.

Thanks,
--Scott

To update your BIOS, you will need to follow the steps below.

Only do this if you are experiencing issues.

Step 1: Power off the machine, open the backbox and make sure the PC is off.
Step 2: Connect a USB keyboard to your Gigabyte PC.
Step 3: Power on your PC using the power button on the PC case.
Step 4: Immediately push the delete key a few times to enter the BIOS. The screen will turn into a blue colored menu system.
Step 5: Scroll to the right until you are on the Chipset tab. You may need to remove your LCD display to see where you are in the BIOS menu.
Step 6: Update the setting called ERP Support to be enabled.
Step 7: Scroll to the right and select save and exit. The computer will reboot and the setting will be saved.
Step 8: Power off the PC
Step 9: Turn on game power switch and enjoy your Bride of Pinbot 2.0

The intermittent green screen you are seeing is probably due to a loose LVDS connector on the back of the LCD. Please check that the connector from the green board to the LCD is snug on both sides.

--Scott

Your computer is not shutting down properly. You may have to update your bios.

Oh man, I did not even notice that. I would try to put that power connector in the right place and try to boot the game again.

For anyone having issues with the Batch 2 kits, please see this post in the DP forums with details on how to update your kit.

http://www.dutchpinball.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=105

Thank you,
--Scott

Yes, please post tech support questions in the DP forum and we can handle them there.

Hey there,
For fix #2, you will need to re-pin the connector in the picture. Currently, your power pin is pulling from the 5v of the machine so your gray cable will be in the bottom position. You will need to carefully extract the metal pin with the wire in it from position 4 to position 1. This should solve the reset issue.

Tips: If you have a .093 pin extractor tool, this will be an easy task, but if not, don't worry, you can still extract the pin by pressing the little metal barbs on the bottom side with a small tool and carefully wiggle the pin out. Then you just pop the pin into the position 1 slot.

Please reach out to me if you are having issues.

Thank you,
--Scott

Pinpimp, please contact the team on the DP forums or [email protected]. We can help.

I honestly don't think that is your problem. What voltage is your CSSC Power cable set to?

Dead Flip will be streaming Bride of Pinbot 2.0 tomorrow (2/8/2016) at 5pm cst.

http://www.twitch.tv/dead_flip

Check it out!

Hey, try taping down the cable and see if that helps.
--Scott

Yup, then it is the connection to the display board. These cables have built in retention clips. Make sure it is snapped in completely. I agree that the tape may not work as it would be temporary if the cable is damaged.

Not this Scott, a different one.

The wires that are soldered to the power switch button should be opposite of each other (diagonally). So you can see from your picture that one is soldered to the upper right pin, the other should be soldered to the lower LEFT.
--Scott

Sorry guys, I mistyped that last post and meant lower left. Glad you got it sorted out.
--Scott

Not sure why these are coming undone on run 3. Please see the post below and my response a couple posts later.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/35#post-3412688

--Scott

Got a multimeter?