Thanks Scott! You got me correct! I just received the boards this weekend and I will be putting together some kits. Waiting for the rest of the parts to come in (didn't have the right diodes) Anyone interested PM me. I'd be willing to sell the PCBs for $5 shipped in the CONUS as is if you wanted to source/build it out yourself, else once I get a kit together I'll figure out what the total would be once I 3d print the switch bits and whatnot and figure out my costs for build time.
Big thanks to Scott for not only creating the mod but also making it public so goons like me can still make it.
6006AF2F-69A7-4D61-B42F-70DF84BF2D01 (resized).jpeg

Received my 2.0 kit yesterday and got it installed - WOW. I think my favorite part is the sounds and music. Now I just need to get one of the flipper boards from dethfactor to make it complete!

Funny thing - On my first game the ball would not register entering the head. Very odd, so I went into the 1.0 game and it seemed to work fine (or so I thought?) and it turns out that I just needed to (majorly) adjust my head enter switch and everything works well now. I don't think this switch has registered for the entire time I've had my game, but the 1.0 software probably uses the mouth switch or one of the wireform lock switches as a backup to register a ball has entered the head. This sounds very similar to what I've been reading in the Funhouse 2.0 thread where you may have switch issues and not even notice them before the 2.0 upgrade because the original software has ways of making up for it.

I bought a spare WPC89 CPU board last year to keep on hand since I have 2 of those games. It turns out I didn't need it because now I have 2 spare CPU boards

I had a few switch issues I needed to work out to get things working correctly. Also it seemed that the program needed to warm up over time to be fully playable as if it were redistributing RAM. I still have issues time to time with lag, balls getting stuck locked behind the disappearing post. YMMV.

I noticed my computer has a 4GB stick of RAM with another open slot for more, no idea if there would be any benefit to adding more

Reminds me… does anyone else here get notifications to update antivirus on theirs?!

You should be able to turn that off by exiting to windows, and using a mouse to go to:
-Control Panel > System and Security > Action Center > Change action center settings
-<turn off the notifications>

Alternatively, you could completely disable the security center:

-Copy/paste the text below into notepad
-Go to File> Save as> disable-securitycenter.reg
-Change the "Save as type" to all files or it will append .txt to your file
-Copy the resulting .reg file to your BoP computer and then run it
-Reboot the machine for the changes to take effect

*Copy text below this line*

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\wscsvc]

"Start"=dword:00000004

*Copy text above this line*

Has anyone been able to download the 1.21 update? I keep getting a BOP2-v1.21.zip can't be downloaded securely message

I did until I hooked up to my wifi and went online. I haven't gotten that message since.

Just got my kit online and of course Windows 10 wants to apply some updates now.... Is it safe to let it update? From my experience with other Win10 machines the update will eventually apply itself whether you want it to or not..

What's the ideal way to power up a Bride 2.0? Mine has always been I need to turn it on, wait until I here the click of the computer about 30 seconds later, then flip the switch. But I'm bringing it to a show and would like to have it all boot up when the game is powered on, because it confuses other people trying to get it running and they sometimes get the P-Rock can not be found error.

I've not found any difference between old and new powering on. Flip the switch and it boots. Takes a bit longer with the computer boot but otherwise it's just the same.

Thanks so much to Barry for resolving my screen issue.

It has been a while, but getting to play it in its final form has been amazing.

Thanks DP for doing this for BOP owners. It is super appreciated.

(I have adjusted the vert screen since this pic)

Barry (resized).jpg

Windows 10 update went fine, game still works.

So I bought enough to make roughly 5 full kits not including the one I made for myself. Which I have confirmed it works. 2 sets of parts have been spoken for as of now so that leaves 3 full kits. I'm offering these up as a completely assembled kit, a DIY kit or I'd be willing to sell the boards separate and/or individual parts depending on what you're looking for. I also have spare boards in case you just want the boards on top of the 5 full kits.

Are there any tricks to upgrading to 1.21? When I try to do it over the internet it fails, when I try to do it with a USB drive, it lists 1.21 as an option, but when when I select to install it and it loads up the game software, it's still 1.19.

Just use a stick, It wouldn't work online for me either. IIRC it failed with the stick also, until I deleted the failed online attempt also.

Hi everyone, I'm a beginner and I just bought my first pinball, or the Brive of Pinbot, my wish machine, I would like to buy the 2.0 kit and I can't find who to buy it from .... someone can help me

Email [email protected] and ask if he has one or will do another run

Anyone have an issue with having 2 balls locked for multiball and if you drain ball 3 and the game ends, only one ball gets released and the other stays locked? I have battled this for a while now and can't figure it out. I have to either restart the game, or switch to 1.0 to get it to release. It doesn't do this on the 1.0 version and multiball works fine on 2.0 and releases the balls as it should during multiball. When it hit the start button, it looks for the missing ball, but still won't release the ball as seen in my video.

The original Williams software admittedly is better in compensating for various switch configurations.
Can you check (with a ball) if the following switches are the correct way around: lock1 (lower lock position) and lock2 (upper lock position). It's possible lock1 and lock2 switches are switched around (with connectors below the playfield if I'm not mistaken). Also when the balls are resting in the lock positions, the corresponding switch should stay closed.

I have had this issue as well as the post not releasing both balls playing the 1.0 version. It happens infrequently. Never was an issue with the original. Anytime I asked about it I’ve been told that all switches and post need to be in great working order for the new software to work correctly. My post was hanging up ever so slightly so I cleaned it and rotated it. Seemed to help. Would be good if when this happens the machine could recognize it sooner and trigger the post earlier during a ball search. Iirc it takes a few ball searches before the post is energized.

Wires looked like they were correctly orientated. I was doing a switch test and it looks like the actuator on the top switch might have been a little off. So I bent it slightly and that's what did it. It wasn't registering the ball in that position, apparently. Working as it should now. Thanks all.

I am disappointed in the quality of the translite from retro refurbs. Anyone have a better source?

bopnew (resized).jpg

bopquality (resized).jpg

Kinda hard to tell in the pics but what don’t you like about it?

Best guess is that to me it looks like a translite I had made. It didn’t have a mask layer on the back so it didn’t show up well lit.

Yeah, I have that one and it's barely passible. The colors are all way oversaturated and the image isn't sharp, it looks cheap. I still installed it since I bring my game to shows and I want people to know it's a 2.0 when stepping up to it, but I'd love a better quality design.

Probably the fact its a bad translight, not the real one.

the resolution is not great so it looks rough. as if scaling the image up hurt the sharpness.

I bought the full BOP 2.0 kit from Retro Refurbs as well, including the custom plastics set. Here's my translite below, I've never had any issue with it the artwork looks sharp and although it's a little dark with the game switched off it actually looks great when lit (with LED's).

How does this compare to yours?

IMG_9041 (resized).jpg
IMG_9042 (resized).jpg
IMG_9043 (resized).jpg
IMG_9046 (resized).jpg
IMG_9047 (resized).jpg

I've no issue at all. I have some of their other custom translites and the quality is much better than what other sellers are offering.

mine is the same. I might be a bit picky.
It is maybe unfair to compare it to the orig screen printed.

It is still an amazing design. I am fine with it. It just sorta made me a lil disappointed. The artwork is amazing, but I hoped it to be sharper of an image.

I just added new ramps and now in having some issues with the switches. Locks light up when they aren't supposed to and Ball 1 won't stay locked. I performed a switch test all all switches that I had to mess with were reading in the correct locations.

It sure if this has anything to do with it but why is there a rubber on the lock post?

Never thought about it. It was like that when I bought it.

And you've shot the Heartbeat ramp somewhere in there?

Edit: whoops wrong forum

That’s great news! Thank you!
I’m sure TBL owners are rejoicing

Confused me for a second why the update would have a lower version until I saw it was for TBL

Sorry, wrong forum. I drained the post thinking it was deleted but apparently not.

Hi.
Finished restoring my BOP and just installed the 2.0 kit.
Wonderful !
While playing, the ball remains stuck on the center ramp, while pinball is searching where it is.
Switch (lock1 and 2) are functioning, so the center coil; tested them trough test mode.
Here a video.

Suggestions on how to solve the problem ?

Check the "Enter head" switch #47 right up at the top of the head. I had the same issue with my 2.0 install. BOP 1.0 works fine without this switch, but 2.0 requires it to be working. Probably just a simple adjustment.

You were right. The switch needed an adjustment because It was not "feeling" the ball passing trough.
Thank you so much.

Looks like my gigabyte pc is having trouble...

Will not power up when I flip the cabinet power switch on.

I open the back box and Press the power button on the gigabyte PC and it goes into a boot loop, it gets to a screen that says “ starting Bride of Pinbot 2.0“ and then resets

Anyone know what I need to do from here?

Reach out to Koen. He’s been very helpful.

https://forums.dutchpinball.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=187&p=1018&hilit=Bios#p1018

This was my issue; needed a new cmos battery

I had this problem as well, I had to replace the switch. 2.0 finds all the problems you didn't know you had!

If you look back to post #2825 and it looks similar to my video, it was the battery in the PC that needed replacing. I replaced the battery then followed these steps to put back in the correct BIOS settings: https://forums.dutchpinball.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=187

It worked for me. I assume that everyone that bought theirs circa 2015 like me should be experiencing battery death at some point too and need to do this.

Yeah, probably all of us that bought the first 2 batches will be experiencing battery death pretty soon, luckily it's an easy and documented fix!

Hey guys,

I'm running into an issue with my BoP 2.0 start up that I'm hoping someone might have some ideas on. Maybe TheNoTrashCougar might have some ideas too.

What happens is the machine will no longer boot without some manual intervention.

Normally, you should just be able to flick the power switch under the cabinet and the game powers on and boots. But that no longer happens as the "Computer Startup Shutdown Controller" does not activate it's switch relay to start the PC.

At this point I need to remove the backglass and manually press the power on switch on the mini PC. The game then boots, it plays fine and then shuts down successfully when I flick the power switch off.

I happened to have a spare (brand new) Startup Shutdown Controller board. Thinking that might have been the issue, I swapped it in. But the issue remained. I swapped the USB cable over to the one the came with my new board. But the issue remained. I've tried moving the USB cable (that runs from the controller board to the computer) to a different slot on the Gigabyte PC - but the issue remains.

I had thought maybe it was a BIOS issue (as in battery dying and settings being lost). But it's still holding the correct time and the BIOS settings on the game match those outlined by Dutch Pinball here: https://forums.dutchpinball.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=187&p=1018&hilit=bios#p1018

Here's the behaviour I'm seeing from the controller board. When I flick the power on at the wall (BoP machine power switch is still off at this pont), the yellow LED for computer power begins to flash on the controller board. I don't know if this is correct - or if it's supposed to remain off at this point. Maybe TheNoTrashCougar can advise on that?

When I then flick the power switch under the BoP cabinet, the green LED for the machine power turns on solid. Also the yellow LED for PC power stops flashing and goes solid. As you can see here, the P-ROC has power along with the driver board. But the switch relay on the Startup Shutdown board never engages to start the PC.

So something isn't quite right.

Now if I flick the switch under the machine cabinet to off, the switch relay will now kick in - which will start the PC. The game will boot, but obviously won't find the P-ROC since machine power has been turned off.

To me - logically - it's like the controller board thinks the mini PC is already in a powered on state. So it doesn't engage the switch relay when the game is powered on. I'm not sure what the flashing yellow LED state means at the start - but if I remove the USB between the PC and the controller board, it remains off - then starts up again once the cable is connected again. So it's drawing some power via the USB to flash that yellow LED.

With some more diagnosing, I found I can temporarily fix it - but not sure on why. Following these steps:

1/ Power on at the wall (at this point the yellow LED flashes)
2/ Power on at the machine (at this point green and yellow LED's go solid, but PC does not boot)
3/ Manually press power button on PC (game boots and can be played without issue)
4/ Power off at the machine (Controller board correctly shuts down PC - and ALL LEDs on controller board go off!)

At this point the yellow LED does not flash! Even though it's in the same power state as when I first turned the power on at the wall. Now if I power on at the machine again, the switch relay on the controller board clicks, and the PC will boot without me having to press the power button on it.

The only difference I can note here is the yellow LED was not flashing.

Now this is only temporary. If I power off at the wall, come back in 20 minutes and follow the steps again - the yellow LED will be flashing and I have to manually press the power button. Which made me think BIOS battery - but as I mentioned, the settings all look correct compared with those supplied by DP.

So I'm puzzled

With some further investigation, I grabbed the manual for the CSSC board from Scott's site: https://www.scottdanesi.com/hardware/downloads/CSSC%20User%20Guide.pdf

I'm wondering if it's stuck in (or defaults to) the Computer Standalone Mode as this behaviour looks like what I'm seeing. The manual doesn't detail how to swap / change the mode of the board though.

I'm interested in this and would love to hear some solutions. My game has the occasional issue where the controller won't automatically start up the computer, but sometimes after leaving it sit for a minute or two it will then start it up. My solution is that I have a very tiny power switch sticking out of the side of the backglass that I can just press if/when needed. It plugs right into the startup controller board and is nearly invisible.
s-l500 (resized).jpg

What type of battery?