Ok so upon further investigation, this certainly looks like a wiring issue somewhere. When I go into BoP 1.0 test menu, the left flipper inputs as the right one. I get nothing on the right flipper though. Both flipper solenoids kick over though with no issues.

Looking at the wiring diagram, there doesn't seem to be a full wiring diagram in the manual. Where do I find what plug goes to where at the power driver board?

Does your lane change for extra ball operate correctly? Shot in the dark.

Explain, not sure I understand what you're asking here.

Are you asking to test the switch for lane change?

Yes, check their function to make sure they move the extra ball light in the correct directions.

I hate to sound like a noob, but I don't understand what you mean but check the direction? Like am I checking a switch or something in the menu?

In 1.0 mode, get the extra ball light to light up. The L and R flipper will move the light in the corresponding direction (left flipper moves the light to the left Extra Ball light)and you can verify that the L/R functions are working on the playfield.

I'll give that a try. I also posted my problem in tech

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bride-of-pinbot-right-sw-not-registering-but-left-sw-as-right

Someone knew the issue and posted linked me this below. I think I'm going to try and find an OEM driver board now.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Special_Note_regarding_RottenDog_Power.2FDriver_boards_manufactured_prior_to_February.2C_2012

RottenDog aftermarket power/driver boards manufactured prior to February, 2012 contain a trace layout/connection error that exchanges the function of the two 4N25 Opto Isolators on the board. That is, the 4N25 that should report a left flipper closure actually reports a right flipper closure, and vice-versa. This error can be corrected via two cuts and two jumpers, as illustrated in the image at left.

Cutting and jumping those traces should be pretty simple if you have a decent soldering iron. I would try that before sourcing a new board.

I agree, but one key note here is that the right/left flippers are not switched. Only the left flipper makes it a right, the right flipper is totally dead in the switch menu.

I think instead of hassling with this aftermarket board and running into other possible, I'm going to just find an OEM refurbished one and call it a day.

One a side note, is there a way to individually control bass volume from pinsound? Or is the method to lower the SFX / Voice volume down and raise the overall volume up?

Does anybody have a link to a run down of the rule set? I found an old thread but the link is dead.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bride-of-pinbot-20-game-play-rule-sheet

My advice after searching and searching and finding only vague rules:
Pull the glass and cycle the game through.
Spoiler: it’s insanely difficult to get to metamorphosis

Can anybody with a new kit show what kind of amplifier is now being included? I heard they did away with the Lepai and now have a dedicated amp board?

Top left is the new dedicated board for speakers and sub. No wires hooked up in this photo btw

PXL_20220211_053011691 (resized).jpg

Thanks for sharing! That looks like a way better solution than the external amp.

I haven't installed my kit yet and have the old amp. Anybody know where Dutch Pinball is sourcing these from? Is there a revised installation manual someone could share?

Installation manual is basically the same except there are instructions on how to mount the new sound board and the 3 wires to the speakers vs mounting the external amp. Pretty self explanatory in that regard.

Right on. Does it end up using cabinet power instead of a separate power supply? Are there any manufacturer details on the board?

Thanks again

It’s powered from the cabinet and has Dutch Pinball printed on the board so I think they built it themselves.

I wonder if it's what's used in the Big Lebowski...

Let me borrow yours and I’ll let you know.

Got a reply from Dutch about the subwoofer gain. There's a small potentiometer I'm the board, a little. Hard to see but that's where the sub gain is at.

Figured others would find this valuable as well.

image (resized).png

It looks like most people who install the 2.0 kit also have a very nice BOP or will restore their game before installing the kit. I plan to install the kit on my routed game with worn cabinet and playfield, but it plays great. Any other 2.0s out there installed in a routed, worn, player's condition machine?

Mine obviously saw a lot of time on route before I bought it and I’ve done no restoration other than cutting away a bit of lifting Mylar on the playfield. The cool thing about 2.0 is that is fixed a lot of little (non-critical) bugs in the old CPU. The most noticeable being the light sequences in the back glass and the unreliability of the old battery harness and RAM.

2.0 installed in my machine. New Buthamburg playfield on the way. This one is a keeper so eventually I’ll get to making everything right.

I will likely replace the playfield sometime in the future, I've never been a fan of the mylar on the field, changes the game IMO but other than that, I really love BoP on my old worn game. Needs a full shop but other than that, it's a big hit at my parties to play.

Mine is installed in very much a player's game with playfield wear that I picked up for $1800 about 10 years ago. I've cleaned it up as much as possible and did some new plastics and LEDs, but it goes to shows and events like it is. I did pick up a new playfield for it and eventually will do a playfield swap, but I never seem to have that much time.

For those using a remotely controlled outlet to turn on your games, how did you integrate this with the BOP 2.0 kit? Right now I have my games all connected to a remotely controlled power strip, so I just flip one switch to turn on all of the games and one switch to turn them all off. It looks like the 2.0 computer doesn't like a sudden power cut in this fashion, but I would still like to be able to remotely turn it on and off like the other games. Is this possible?

About the only way I can think of is with a UPS. Back in my IT days, you could program a UPS to shut down a machine gently. Really, that is all this is now, a computer.

Yes. It’s a routed machine, no Mylar so it got some heavy use. It did clean up nice though. Should be up and running as soon as I get in the sub and hookup power.

E48B32F4-7E1D-4756-B67E-71B747B97BFE (resized).jpeg
A8D5F6A9-B5CB-48C6-A95A-722EC08BE7FB (resized).jpeg
527B83BF-118A-4575-8ADC-00A7E39C5190 (resized).jpeg
AC596328-1C39-439A-8F35-4A81D33770F8 (resized).jpeg
3C63A2B3-A2BE-4C9F-AE9E-63746D84F541 (resized).jpeg

For what it's worth, the long ribbon cable from the p-roc to the display board isn't used anymore. I don't have that connected at all on my 2.0

I've been working with barry to figure out a weird audio sub cutout issue that occurs at total random. So what I have done is the following with wiring:
Left channel
Bridged channel
right channel

If I use left and bridge, after about 5-10mins of gameplay, I will have my sub cut out but audio continues. If I use the right channel though, I have zero issues.

Figured this might be useful to others if they run into that problem

Fantastic. The more old stuff I can remove the better!

Interesting sound issue you mention. I haven't played it enough to have it happen.

Removed the unneeded ribbon cable. Thank you. Reviewing the install instructions, I'm really not sure why I had it in the first place.

The BOP 2.0 Live is just too cool... damn!

I'm not exactly sure where to post, but I'm giving this a shot. Just purchased a BoP and I'm wanting to install a 2.0 kit. Where could I find one? sent an email to Dutch Pinball, but I haven't gotten a reply.

Try emailing Barry direct - [email protected]

I ordered my kits directly through Dutch Pinball. Barry was always very response to my pestering emails.

Is it still possible to get the BOP 2.0 Kit? Anyone have one for sale?

Thank you for your interest in the BoP2.0 Upgrade Kit!

We are currently building a new batch of kits, but they are already sold out and we are checking whether we can build more.

I will contact you as soon as I have more information.

Response I got today from Barry I wonder how often they release the kits.

I waited almost 2yrs for mine after he said that the is kits are mostly driven by demand in small batches. This last batch was only a run of 50

So did anybody get to metamorphosis yet?
I have a gamebreaking software bug.

Made it to multiball 2,where you have to shoot 2 balls up for one jackpot.
i managed to do that, but drained one ball. The lock releases one ball, but the other one stays locked. I can't get further...
I tried it with glass off, and tried it with 3 balls. With 3 balls you can get a little further but then again i dont get the balls to go further.
so you guys have the same problem?

Have reported it to dutch pinball. I don't know if the will work on those software issues.

Hey everyone!
Just to give everyone an update on the flipper mod kits. I actually open sourced the files for people to make their own boards. dethfactor looks to be running these things now and making full kits for people and should be done soon. Hopefully I have his pinside name right.

Well anyway, here is a link to all the files you will need to make these things. The zip file contains the Gerber files, BOM, and STL files for the 3D printed brackets.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Z7YGvi_VT6TUlqa2RTN3JBcTA/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-TZBXbVw_jh4MsjHSPRrsLA

Enjoy!
--Scott Danesi

Hello stranger! Is this the same flipper mod you made years ago ?

Same thing!
--Scott

Thanks for sharing this! Can you double check the BOM links for the diode, leaf switches, and mouser items? I think they are older links and no longer work.

50 is a big batch! The first two batches years ago were 25 each. I think this means now there are 150 kits in existence:
Batch 1, Dutch Pinball = 25
Batch 2, Dutch Pinball = 25
Batch 3, Cointaker = 50
Batch 4, Dutch Pinball = 50

Yeah, I've never understood why Dutch does such small batches, but I know there are financially struggling and probably can't sit on alot of product. But it seems like they could easily do these in batches of 100 and help subsidize making more Big Lebowski's for the early adopters that are still owed games. Either way, I'm happy to see Dutch surviving and BPO 2.0 and BL's getting produced, even if it's slow and in low numbers. They make cool shit and have always been great at supporting their projects!!

I updated the file in the zip file for you guys, sorry about that.

But here are the new links:
Leaf Switches: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html
Diodes: https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html
Male Headers: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-locking-header-4-pin.html
Female Header: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-48-4099?qs=Y%2FrI5Y8Al8%2FeBKiu9cVmSA%3D%3D
4 Pin IDC Connectors 22 AWG: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-idc-4-position-connector-for-22-gauge-wire.html
Screws: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-1-sheet-metalwood-screw.html

--Scott

What is this flipper mod? Anyone have pics or know the purpose?

It disables the flippers during video mode.

I did a short write up on it (with pics) when I installed mine a few years ago: http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2018/06/16/bride-of-pinbot-2-0-repair-service-log-5/

I ordered 2 kits from Melissa at Cointaker a couple of weeks ago, no date on when they will ship, but might be worth an enquiry as the kits are not listed on their site, I think she said she had 10 coming!