(Topic ID: 72381)

BOP 2.0 Owners Club (Members Only)

By awarner

10 years ago


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#2851 2 years ago

I installed it correctly, but the monitor is not displaying anything. Not even the powering up screen or a response when pressing the menu button. Just blank. I have tried hooking the monitor to other devices and still blank, no backlight.

I am able to hook up another monitor and play the game just fine. It is pretty darn cool.

Any ideas on a replacement LCD I can purchase?

BOPtemp (resized).jpgBOPtemp (resized).jpg
#2852 2 years ago
Quoted from beerorkid:

I installed it correctly, but the monitor is not displaying anything. Not even the powering up screen or a response when pressing the menu button. Just blank. I have tried hooking the monitor to other devices and still blank, no backlight.
I am able to hook up another monitor and play the game just fine. It is pretty darn cool.
Any ideas on a replacement LCD I can purchase?[quoted image]

You mean the brand new monitor they shipped isn’t working? I think I’d be contacting them for a replacement and have them cover the shipping both ways

#2853 2 years ago

Yeah, I'd contact Dutch, they have good customer service support.

#2854 2 years ago

Unboxed my kit today and I got the EU plug stuff and my speaker board was damaged. It was packaged well so it looks like it was dropped on its corner. What do you think?

Already contact dutch about it, hopefully they will send a replacement and I can just swap everything over.

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#2855 2 years ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

Unboxed my kit today and I got the EU plug stuff and my speaker board was damaged. It was packaged well so it looks like it was dropped on its corner. What do you think?
Already contact dutch about it, hopefully they will send a replacement and I can just swap everything over.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Bummer. I’m wondering why people in the US are getting the wrong plug on their kits. I’ll check mine tmrw.

#2856 2 years ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

Unboxed my kit today and I got the EU plug stuff and my speaker board was damaged. It was packaged well so it looks like it was dropped on its corner. What do you think?
Already contact dutch about it, hopefully they will send a replacement and I can just swap everything over.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I hope you get it corrected in quick order. It’s never any fun opening up a new toy just to discover it’s damaged.

#2857 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Bummer. I’m wondering why people in the US are getting the wrong plug on their kits. I’ll check mine tmrw.

I don't know either, maybe different QA people working right now for dutch? I feel like someone packaged it and dropped it on its corner while it was in wrapping because the box has no damage to it.

Barry has been awesome to work with, so we'll see what he says. I've been wait over a year for this now.

#2858 2 years ago

Barry told me the use of EU power plugs is mentioned in the manual. Since all supplied power adapters are "switching" (automatically adapt to the mains voltage) , it doesnt matter what power plugs are used internally in your machine.

#2859 2 years ago
Quoted from KoenHeltzel:

Barry told me the use of EU power plugs is mentioned in the manual. Since all supplied power adapters are "switching" (automatically adapt to the mains voltage) , it doesnt matter what power plugs are used internally in your machine.

6CC4B314-43A4-4009-A117-76C323C6ABA8 (resized).jpeg6CC4B314-43A4-4009-A117-76C323C6ABA8 (resized).jpeg

I thought the type of outlet had something to do with this
Maybe something changed in the process?
In any event I didn’t request a separate power strip because I was following the instructions upon ordering.

#2860 2 years ago

From Barry:

"In previous batches we did a specific EU and a US version. But the new kits are for all Brides, so you can install the kit as described in the manual : )

So it might seem a but odd with a European power strip, but it will work just as fine : )"

#2861 2 years ago

The sub only works for a minute and then shuts off. I have to reboot to get it back. I have checked all the connections. Even replaced the ones on the sub.

Any ideas?

#2862 2 years ago

Just installed. Directions seemed straight forward. After triple checking all the connections I don’t have a display or much of anything. The only sound is when I power the machine off. Anyone else experience this?

#2863 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Just installed. Directions seemed straight forward. After triple checking all the connections I don’t have a display or much of anything. The only sound is when I power the machine off. Anyone else experience this?

Did you make sure the main board ribbon cable to the P roc connection hit all the pins?

can you connect to another display?

The game has no attract sound. The only sound I heard was when windows noticed I disconnected the HDMI. Also pressing the start button blind will do nothing. You need to press the start button for a few seconds to enter the "which game" menu. Press the flippers buttons either left or right. Left would be easier since it fires up the old game without you having to pick what face is displayed.

#2864 2 years ago
Quoted from beerorkid:

Did you make sure the main board ribbon cable to the P roc connection hit all the pins?
can you connect to another display?
The game has no attract sound. The only sound I heard was when windows noticed I disconnected the HDMI. Also pressing the start button blind will do nothing. You need to press the start button for a few seconds to enter the "which game" menu. Press the flippers buttons either left or right. Left would be easier since it fires up the old game without you having to pick what face is displayed.

I double checked that ribbon cable. Unplugged it and reseated it. Same deal. I don’t have another monitor to test it. I did get a game to start using the method you described. It flipped to the second face and started the classic game…
Strangely the display flashed white once while powering the machine down. Trying to feel around and see if something came loose from the factory

#2865 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

I double checked that ribbon cable. Unplugged it and reseated it. Same deal. I don’t have another monitor to test it. I did get a game to start using the method you described. It flipped to the second face and started the classic game…
Strangely the display flashed white once while powering the machine down. Trying to feel around and see if something came loose from the factory

I’m not sure how or why but it’s working now. May have been a loose connection on the speaker panel or somewhere I hadn’t checked previously. Did not have the “a-ha” moment… just started working. The first game I played classic it flashed to a white screen a couple of times. Seems to be 100% with 2.0
No clue but all good for now

#2866 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

I’m not sure how or why but it’s working now. May have been a loose connection on the speaker panel or somewhere I hadn’t checked previously. Did not have the “a-ha” moment… just started working. The first game I played classic it flashed to a white screen a couple of times. Seems to be 100% with 2.0
No clue but all good for now

Update: now I keep getting this white screen with lines through it. Display working intermittently

CB448C87-AF76-4B48-9DA8-F3D65CA014E1 (resized).jpegCB448C87-AF76-4B48-9DA8-F3D65CA014E1 (resized).jpeg
#2867 2 years ago

Finding more issues with 2.0:
Ball gets stuck in the skill shot lane. Machine has to do a search before the solenoid is triggered to send it to the jets
This is not a problem when playing 1.0 because the ball ejects fine.
1.0 sound is 75% quieter
1.0 gameplay leaves much to be desired. Had it eject both balls after completing face 2, it never switched to face three. Sent one ball down to the flippers and the other remained trapped behind the disappearing post.
Mind you I only have a display about 10% of the time with either version. Usually I’ll have the startup screen when it boots up but it fades away to white quickly.
What a mess…

#2868 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Finding more issues with 2.0:
Ball gets stuck in the skill shot lane. Machine has to do a search before the solenoid is triggered to send it to the jets
This is not a problem when playing 1.0 because the ball ejects fine.
1.0 sound is 75% quieter
1.0 gameplay leaves much to be desired. Had it eject both balls after completing face 2, it never switched to face three. Sent one ball down to the flippers and the other remained trapped behind the disappearing post.
Mind you I only have a display about 10% of the time with either version. Usually I’ll have the startup screen when it boots up but it fades away to white quickly.
What a mess…

my pc seems to have a hardware problem, but the code problems you describe work fine for me.
when in 1.0 the ball doesn't always get released, but there is an option in the menu (when playing 2.0) to adjust the coilstrength.
so when the disappearing post stays not down long enough, i think that could be solved with those adjustments. didn't try it out just yet.

when all 2 balls come down, maybe your post stays down to long, that also could maybe be solved in those adjustments with decreasing the value.
also before modding my Bride i had this exact problem. maybe the post just needs cleaning that it works smoothly.

#2869 2 years ago

I’m familiar with the post hanging up. I fixed that before on my original machine by gently cleaning as you described.
I think the post problem is just one of a whole host of issues with my machine.
-Display blanking out to solid white during gameplay
-skill shot coil seems to eject fine during single ball about 75% of the time but has to wait for ball search every time after one or more are locked
-ejecting another ball into shooter lane after one is launched when the game shouldn’t be calling for it happens routinely
-game over doesn’t release the disappearing post to return the ball…

Everytime I power it on and play there is some different game breaking problem!

My original game didn’t seem to have switch or ball feed issues and cycled normally before the conversion. I will say that often after the skill shot the coil wouldn’t fire the ball up to the jets on the first attempt.
Outside of that it was a good playing machine.

#2870 2 years ago

Hey i do have one thing you described. On gameover it releases one ball. But a second locked ball is not released. When i hit start there is a ball search and the ball gets not released. On the next ball search it gets released. So that is a software bug i would say.

Your display problem is obviously a bigger problem. Have you contacted the support?

I contacted them about my pc, they will send me a replacement.

#2871 2 years ago

Oh wait when the coil is not strong enough to shoot the ball up to the jets, that could maybe also be solved by adjusting the coil strength in the menu. Have you tried that? It does seem very strange though that it works on single ball. Very weird.
but maybe when you increase the coil strength of this one, everything will be better.

#2872 2 years ago
Quoted from stefanmader:

Oh wait when the coil is not strong enough to shoot the ball up to the jets, that could maybe also be solved by adjusting the coil strength in the menu. Have you tried that? It does seem very strange though that it works on single ball. Very weird.
but maybe when you increase the coil strength of this one, everything will be better.

There is a light under the shuttle that flashes just below the kicker before the ball is kicked up out of the skill shot ramp. That indicates that the machine knows a ball is there I believe. With multiple balls (a locked ball) the light doesn’t flash at all.
I ordered a usb wired keyboard and mouse so that I can access the menu. Should be here in a couple days.
I contacted support as soon as I had display issues. I’m not expecting a response on a weekend but hopefully soon.
It’s just odd… first the display wouldn’t turn on at all. Then it started working but blanks out…
I’m not even really sure where to start with most of these problems

#2873 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

There is a light under the shuttle that flashes just below the kicker before the ball is kicked up out of the skill shot ramp. That indicates that the machine knows a ball is there I believe. With multiple balls (a locked ball) the light doesn’t flash at all.
I ordered a usb wired keyboard and mouse so that I can access the menu. Should be here in a couple days.
I contacted support as soon as I had display issues. I’m not expecting a response on a weekend but hopefully soon.
It’s just odd… first the display wouldn’t turn on at all. Then it started working but blanks out…
I’m not even really sure where to start with most of these problems

The menu can be accessed through the buttons that are on the inside of the coin door. You dont need a keyboard for that

But you have to be in the dutch pinball game to access the menu

#2874 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Finding more issues with 2.0:
Ball gets stuck in the skill shot lane. Machine has to do a search before the solenoid is triggered to send it to the jets
This is not a problem when playing 1.0 because the ball ejects fine.
1.0 sound is 75% quieter
1.0 gameplay leaves much to be desired. Had it eject both balls after completing face 2, it never switched to face three. Sent one ball down to the flippers and the other remained trapped behind the disappearing post.
Mind you I only have a display about 10% of the time with either version. Usually I’ll have the startup screen when it boots up but it fades away to white quickly.
What a mess…

During 1.0 the face should flip to face 3 before releasing any balls…
I think the fact that it didn’t threw the whole sequence off. The head motor relay has already been reflowed as I had an issue in the past. Cycled flawlessly before the kit.

#2875 2 years ago

Hmm weird behavior.

That monitor problem feels like there has to be an issue with a cable. When it gets no valid signal from the pc, or maybe not enough power.

#2876 2 years ago
Quoted from stefanmader:

Hmm weird behavior.
That monitor problem feels like there has to be an issue with a cable. When it gets no valid signal from the pc, or maybe not enough power.

I started looking into the coil strengths. Adjustments are in ms… is that the time the coil is energized?
Noticed the left out hole struggles to kick the ball out during 1.0
Issues with the skill shot kicker. Sometimes it barely strikes, other times it’s full power.
I’m not sure why it’s so different. Would replace the coil and clean/ oil the linkage if it was consistently bad. It’s just so intermittent though.

#2877 2 years ago
Quoted from stefanmader:

Hmm weird behavior.
That monitor problem feels like there has to be an issue with a cable. When it gets no valid signal from the pc, or maybe not enough power.

The monitor problem is odd too because it starts up everytime now. Just cuts out at some point. Often after playing 2.0 and having the display go white it will revert to a normal screen when powering down.

#2878 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

I started looking into the coil strengths. Adjustments are in ms… is that the time the coil is energized?
Noticed the left out hole struggles to kick the ball out during 1.0
Issues with the skill shot kicker. Sometimes it barely strikes, other times it’s full power.
I’m not sure why it’s so different. Would replace the coil and clean/ oil the linkage if it was consistently bad. It’s just so intermittent though.

Yes it should be how many ms the coil is energized.
well i just had a play with 1.0 and the post didn't release the secobd ball during metamorphosis. Had to wait for ball search when i drained the other one... I went into the menu of 1.0 and tried out the coil test. The post seems to go down very inconsistently.. So i will play around with coil strength some more.. So i feel your problem now. That is gamebreaking..

#2879 2 years ago

The same coil test in 2.0 works fine. Im thinking that maybe the coil strength setting dont transfer to 1.0 that well

#2880 2 years ago

The next 3 metamorphis worked good enough. Oh and now i had that the coil that kicks the ball into the jets, had to try 3 times. I think i'll write them for a software update. If it works on the 2.0 version, it has to be able to work on 1.0.the coil strength i mean

#2881 2 years ago
Quoted from stefanmader:

The next 3 metamorphis worked good enough. Oh and now i had that the coil that kicks the ball into the jets, had to try 3 times. I think i'll write them for a software update. If it works on the 2.0 version, it has to be able to work on 1.0.the coil strength i mean

Right, the inconsistency can be frustrating.
I want to follow the logic for answers but with the pc controlling things it’s very difficult with intermittent problems

#2882 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Finding more issues with 2.0:
Ball gets stuck in the skill shot lane. Machine has to do a search before the solenoid is triggered to send it to the jets
This is not a problem when playing 1.0 because the ball ejects fine.

This happend to me as well. I adjusted the switch with some needle nose pliers to make the roll over stick out a bit more and it fixed the issue. Very odd

Anyone else losing the sub after a bit of gameplay?

#2883 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

[quoted image]
I thought the type of outlet had something to do with this
Maybe something changed in the process?
In any event I didn’t request a separate power strip because I was following the instructions upon ordering.

From what I understand the US kit just plugged into the service plug on the power supply, the EU kit has to be hard wired into the transformer to get power. The EU kit works in that regard, but the US version would just be plug n play.

#2884 2 years ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

From what I understand the US kit just plugged into the service plug on the power supply, the EU kit has to be hard wired into the transformer to get power. The EU kit works in that regard, but the US version would just be plug n play.

That issue is sorted. I can see the way they used to do it. The crimp connection seemed to work fine

#2885 2 years ago

Contacted Dutch support. Couldn’t find my display or coil issues on the forum there.
I received a reply yesterday that Barry was cc’d and will be the one looking into my issue.
I’m thinking I’d like to replace the switch directly in front of my skill shot kicker.
Does anyone know what replacement switch would work best?

#2886 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Contacted Dutch support. Couldn’t find my display or coil issues on the forum there.
I received a reply yesterday that Barry was cc’d and will be the one looking into my issue.
I’m thinking I’d like to replace the switch directly in front of my skill shot kicker.
Does anyone know what replacement switch would work best?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11619-1

#2887 2 years ago

I’m sure the info I need is somewhere in this thread but it’s 50+ pages long. I installed everything and my display boots up, but playfield and flippers aren’t getting power. Which connector is the likely culprit? Also the wide ribbon that attached to the top of the old CPU - should that be connected to anything or just removed as it appears to be in the instructions pictures?

#2888 2 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

I’m sure the info I need is somewhere in this thread but it’s 50+ pages long. I installed everything and my display boots up, but playfield and flippers aren’t getting power. Which connector is the likely culprit? Also the wide ribbon that attached to the top of the old CPU - should that be connected to anything or just removed as it appears to be in the instructions pictures?

Remove the ribbon. It’s not used.

#2889 2 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

Which connector is the likely culprit?

Probably the short ribbon cable between the P-ROC and the driver board. It's quite easy to misfit that and miss a whole row of pins

#2890 2 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Probably the short ribbon cable between the P-ROC and the driver board. It's quite easy to misfit that and miss a whole row of pins

That was the one. Thanks!

#2891 2 years ago

Dutch responded back to me about my damaged speaker panel I got during shipment. They said they will send me a replacement speaker panel since mine was damaged. They don't have them in stock at the moment but will ship out the replacement once they come in.

They also offered to have me ship my old one and have them swap everything over if I couldn't do that. I opted to have them just ship me the panel and I'll swap everything myself.

Also, I asked about the EU power kit but as mentioned before, the latest kit will work with any BoP machine. In the past they had specific US/EU ones, but the latest one they ship will work even though it's EU plugs.

Next steps are to install the kit and make sure everything works. Dutch also asked me to do this to make sure nothing else was broken since my panel was broken to begin with.

I can't say enough of how great their customer service has been. It really seems like they want your business and are easy / fast to work with.

#2892 2 years ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

Also, I asked about the EU power kit but as mentioned before, the latest kit will work with any BoP machine. In the past they had specific US/EU ones, but the latest one they ship will work even though it's EU plugs.

The EU power strip has clips that tap into the existing power. Besides not having a connector seated right, this was the only hiccup I had. Take your time seating the existing wires into the clips before crushing them with pliers. My first attempts pushed the wire away from the metal blade that makes the connection. It took me a couple tries, but fortunately, the clips can be pried open and reset.

I’m having a blast on the default settings. Any tricks to navigating the service menu? I want to set it so you can select classic or 2.0 with the flippers before starting a game.

#2893 2 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

The EU power strip has clips that tap into the existing power. Besides not having a connector seated right, this was the only hiccup I had. Take your time seating the existing wires into the clips before crushing them with pliers. My first attempts pushed the wire away from the metal blade that makes the connection. It took me a couple tries, but fortunately, the clips can be pried open and reset.
I’m having a blast on the default settings. Any tricks to navigating the service menu? I want to set it so you can select classic or 2.0 with the flippers before starting a game.

Hold the start button and it will give you that option

#2894 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Hold the start button and it will give you that option

Perfect. Thanks again!

#2895 2 years ago

Got everything installed tonight and it all works! A few things I'm not sure of.

1) How do you switch between 1.0 and 2.0 BoP versions?

2) I have a weird issue with the sub, it will play for a little while in the game, but it will stop working and not continue working unless I power cycle the game. Anyone else having that issue?

#2896 2 years ago

Found another weird issue, when I try to scroll to the left when choosing or entering initials or other things in the menu, it moves right with the left flipper. Right flipper does nothing. Tried it in other code versions and have the same issue.

The game is 100% playable though and I can control left and right flippers individually without any issues.

Any ideas?

#2897 2 years ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

How do you switch between 1.0 and 2.0 BoP versions?

Unless they've changed it, you press and hold the start (credit) button.

#2898 2 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Unless they've changed it, you press and hold the start (credit) button.

Figured it out, but my left flipper won't select it. Forces right with the left flipper. Weird?

Seems like I have a logic issue somewhere with the MPU since the driver board works fine

#2899 2 years ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

Forces right with the left flipper. Weird?

Try unplugging and reseating both ends of the short ribbon cable that connects the driver board to the P-ROC and also J110 on the driver board. The power for the flippers goes through different circuits (the CPU doesn't actually fire the flippers). The switches that open/close to tell the CPU you're pressing the buttons come in first to the power driver board on J110 and then get to the CPU (or P-ROC) via that ribbon cable. Unlike all the other switches which connect direct to the CPU. Reseating and checking those might help.

#2900 2 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Try unplugging and reseating both ends of the short ribbon cable that connects the driver board to the P-ROC and also J110 on the driver board. The power for the flippers goes through different circuits (the CPU doesn't actually fire the flippers). The switches that open/close to tell the CPU you're pressing the buttons come in first to the power driver board on J110 and then get to the CPU (or P-ROC) via that ribbon cable. Unlike all the other switches which connect direct to the CPU. Reseating and checking those might help.

reseated both and it yielded the same results, left flipper forces the game LCD to move to the right, right flipper has no effect. During gameplay, both flippers work without issues though.

I forgot to mention this, but this pin does have a rottendog board A-12697-1/-3 in it. Not sure if that matters or not as far as what is going on here.

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