Outstanding work!

In case you didn't see this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-machine-bride-of-pinbot-the-13 (asking $2200)

Would like to see these installed on a game.

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Is he open again?

Yep.

...and the regular BoP ones he has look like nicer graphics.

I am thinking about selling my BOP 2.0. What would the price range on it be?

New playfield from bothamburg
New ramps
LEDs
New decals
New translite
New plastics
And so on...

Relatively high, given what you list. But which decals? Which translite?

Also, whether that list gives you a good price, or a vertigo inducing price, depends on if the cabinet was fully restored to a very high level, or just sanded a bit and re-decaled.

Good questions indeed.
I did not do the work on it, by the looks of it it it nicely done. The only thing I have to put my finger on, he didn't do the back of the head. Other than that it looks good. Unfortunately the decals have some small bruises due to transport.
The translite and cabinet decals is *cough* fan made.

A drawback could be that I would have to ship it from Norway. No big deal for me, but maybe for the buyer.

If you're selling to an international buyer, or even one on the other side of your country, if I were you I'd ask them to arrange the transport, and pack it to their satisfaction (taking photos).

It's what I've always done, buying internationally; asking the seller to pack it to my satisfaction, paying for packing materials, and certainly organising and paying for the transport (and insurance) myself.

pics ???

Thanks to an idea from @rubberducks, I've been working on a pinduino replacement for the helmet lights:

Finished installed the helmet back in my BoP and have updated the code. I think it came out really well (and kicks the snot out of the stock lighting).

Code, as always, is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/BOP-ramp-head

If anyone is interested in a plug and play kit, just PM me (and I'll get this listed in my Pinside store). I think the cost will be $125 (or you can DIY for around $40-$50).

Dood, that is amazeballs, I’m down for a diy method... looking forward to the guide, mind posting the diy guide here?

Thanks! I'll definitely post the instructions for DIY. All the installation guides that are linked from the product pages in my pinside shop are also DIY guides. In fact, I use the parts list at the top of the page when making kits for people, and often read through what I wrote to make sure I'm assembling the kits correctly. After writing these for a couple of years for dozens of different kits, I can't remember all the details.

If you want to make this kit yourself -- grab some of these addressable LEDs: ebay.com link: 50pcs 500pcs WS2811 RGB Full Color Pixels digital Addressable LED String 12mm 5V

I have this now listed in my pinside shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/01376-pinduino-bop-helmetlighting-kit

Also, I wrote up instructions for building/installing: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1kTpFVe-YBrWfoj62PlGlrLQYIF78DTn__jdQGrwmKTk/edit

This is pretty cool. Do your rules care if it's 1.0 or 2.0? I suppose it shouldn't, as it's monitoring the same switches, right? What gets added (besides LEDs) if you're already running your existing pinduino setup?

I need to make a video running the 1.0 software, but the pinduino monitors flashers run through J126 so there it is compatible with both 1.0 and 2.0. The Pinduino that controls LEDs on the face and ramp is already using both output ports to control LEDs, so a second pinduino is needed to control the helmet lights (pinduinos stack). If you already have a pinduino for BoP, feel free to PM about the helmet one.

I made a video showing the helmet with BoP 1.0 (uses the same code for both BoP version):

Saturday night I noticed some strange behavior in my Bride 2.0. Occasionally on a new ball, the lights aren't lighting up on the skill shot values. It seemed pretty random when it would happen. It would happen for one ball and then be back fine on the next. Any idea what would cause this?

2.0 will let you play while in switch test. Put it in switch test before you start playing and see if anything comes up that shouldn't be happening. 2.0 seems to be switch sensitive in some areas

Yeah, extremely sensitive to timing... I think the matrix scanning time is somewhat off compared to Williams timing. It simply expects perfect switches. Well ok, tbh 2.0 deserves it

Hi Guys,

I picked up a BoP 2.0 a week ago and noticed a couple of switch issues on arrival. They didn't bother me enough to start with, but decided to set some time aside tonight to investigate.

I've discovered there appears to be an issue with all switches on row #5.

This row contains Left Outlane (15), Right Trough (25), Skill Shot 25K (35), Right Loop Bottom (45), Lower Jet Bumper (55), Head Mouth (65), Mini Exit Right (75).

The behaviour I see is activating these switches will register the switch directly above it in row 4. The most noticable one for me was Left Outlane (15) appears as Tilt (14). This is seen all the way along the row (15 activates 14, 25 activates 24, 35 activates 34 and so on). All switches on row 4 register correctly in test mode when activated and do not seem to be affected by the issue. Switches in other rows also activate correctly and do not appear to be an issue. The issue looks to be isolated to row 5.

I inspected the switches on row 5 and think the issue resides with the switch for Right Trough (25). If I remove all balls from the trough and then try to activate any of the other switches on row 5, none of them register in switch test mode.

If I activcate Right Trough (25) with a ball or manually with my finger and then activate one of the other switches on row 5, I get the strange behaviour e.g. Left Out Lane (15) appears as Tilt (14) and Lower Jet (55) appears as Upper Jet (54).

Looking at the right trough switch, I noticed that some soldering had been done to it at some point in recent weeks/months/years (not sure how recent) - and the switch wire (white+green) is connected to the banded side of the diode. I believe this should be connected to the non banded side as per the other switches across the machine.

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Thinking that this switch was causing some sort of short, I disconnected the wire from the trough switch and then tried the other switches on row 5, but none of them register. They only register (all be it incorrectly) when the trough switch is engaged (as a side note, the trough switch (25) would be activating switch 24 - which is marked in the manual as "Always closed" which would explain why there is no 'missing ball' error).

I'm wondering if having the wire connected up to the wrong side of the diode has done some damage to the P-ROC board or one of its chips? Is this possible? Am I missing something simple? Any thoughts or suggestions on things I can try to diagnose it further?

Yes, my switch appears to be connected the other way around with the white with green wire attached to the non banded side of the diode. Hope it didn’t cause damage...

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Thanks for taking the time to photo and confirm the wiring.

It looks to me that the trough switch (on my machine) has been replaced as some point, which would help explain why the wire has been resoldered here. The switch blade on yours is what I'd expect to see, while mine is much longer than required.

It's interesting that when I move the wire to the correct switch lug, none of the switches on row 5 work. This changes the behavior from activating an incorrect switch in the row above (on the switch matrix), to no response at all.

Probably the next step is for me to remove the connectors from the P-ROC board and test the switch matrix one pin at a time to try and see if the issue is on the board or on the playfield.

I have seen a member on the BoP 2.0 forums talk about an issue with their ULN2803A chip - although they were having a column issue, where as mine is a row. I think the LM339 chips are in charge or the switch matrix rows, so it's possible one of those is faulty. I can replace this easily and cheaply enough - but would be good to have the issue source determined rather than take a shot gun approach.

I'll investigate more tonight.

I turned on my BoP 2.0 (first batch) last night and the game won't start. Instead, it boots to this message:

Windows Boot Manager

Windows failed to start. A recent hardware or software change might be the cause. To fix the problem:

Insert your Windows installation disc and restart your computer.
Choose your language settings, and then click "Next."
Click "repair your computer."
If you don't have this disc, contact your system administrator or computer manufacturer for assistance.

Status: 0xc000000e

Info: The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible.

ENTER=Continue ESC=Exit

Pressing Enter will boot to this same message again, so does turning the power off and on again. I didn't see anything suspicious in the BIOS settings either, apart from an incorrect date (Sep 19 2019 or something). I also removed the Zotac PC from the pin and tried it with an external display, mouse & keyboard - same results.

Do you think the hard drive is corrupted? I don't have a backup image, I'll ask also DP for help next. Do you think any Windows 7 installation disc would repair the disk, or should I search for a specific version of the OS? If everything else fails, would someone with a backup be able to share it with me, or do you think the image is unique to each serial number of BoP 2.0?

Instructions on how to make a backup copy of the disk can be found here, btw: http://www.dutchpinball.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=125 (thanks awarner )

My switch row issue from above looks to be solved now.

I moved the wire to the correct switch lug on the right trough switch. This resulted in no switches on row 5 working. I ran through all switches on the machine again and marked them off on a print out of the switch matrix. This allowed me to confirm that only the row 5 switches were failing and there were no cases where multiple switches were being reported.

On the P-ROC board, there are a series of LM339 chips which are in charge of the direct and matrix switches on the game. Looking at the P-ROC schematics I found which chip was responsible for row 5. I replaced this chip and booted the game back up.

At this point, the switches in row 5 started to register correctly. That is, until I activated the right trough switch again. Watching the display when I tested it, the switch name came up for a moment and then disappeared. Trying again, the name would flicker on and off and then remain off. At this point, all the switches on row 5 became intermittent until they stopped registering entirely and was again left with row 5 not working (but all other switches fine).

I replaced the LM339 chip again and this time also replaced the right trough switch. Booting the game back up and testing the switches again, row 5 now registered correctly and the right trough switch worked correctly. I tested the switches on row 5 on repeat for a few minutes, with a heavy focus on the right trough switch and no more failures or intermittent behaviour was seen.

So from what I can tell, the right trough switch was the cause - not just the incorrectly wired lug, but the switch itself.

Since fixing, I've played a number of games on both BoP and Bop 2.0 modes and both have run flawlessly without any switch issues, so I'm considering it fixed

$3-$3.5K for everything you listed above as being done. Really????

I sold my BOP 2.0 in 1 day (technically 7 if you count the time for the deposit to hit my bank but commitment was day 1) with 3 people in line to buy it for $7500 if the first person backed out. This kind of tells me I sold it for less than I could have. Yes, mine was a full out restore (pics in this thread and my documented restore thread) but that shows their is a pretty strong market for these games in a restored condition. I think you are selling the value of this game short IMHO.

I'm no longer an owner of this game so I have ZERO stake in it's value and I rarely visit the thread anymore but I wanted to put that out there since I see a couple of people trying to figure out the market on what they should ask for their games.

I’ll never sell mine. My son and I spent eight months together on it. It’s a work of art and love.

Thanks for the info on the fix and glad to hear of your success! Do you have an idea about how the switch was messing up the chip?

Sadly no. I had thought maybe the diode was shorted or open, but it tested fine when removed from the switch. I could try digging more, but with the game working fine now, I'm happy to leave it.

Not sure if you saw, but Koen replied to your thread on the Dutch Pinball forums with some suggestions.

Here are some pictures of my game. I will be putting it up for sale. I don’t know what a going rate would be?

Lots and lots of new hardware on the game.

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Hi all, I'm looking for a BOP 2.0 translite. I have the decals for the cab but really need the translite to complete it. Any idea where I can source one from or have one made? I'm UK based but happy to import from US (or elsewhere) if that is the only option.

Thanks in advance!

PM sent.

My 2.0 bride will be getting phase 2 of her makeover with a new cabinet from virtuapin! Can't wait to get my hands all over her!

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That cabinet looks beautiful. I'd love to do that eventually.

I have had a donor cab and the decals in my house for over a year. Can't get myself to finish it

I haven’t opened my 2.0 kit yet, does the kit come with a translite or no?

My bride got some serious attention this weekend!

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she requested black gloss Powercoating . Now she's sexier than ever!

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Bought new computer after I fried old computer...switched ssd then installed now I got bootlooping on start up.. I read that someone else had same problem,anyone know the fix? Says gygabyte then starting bride of pinbot 2.0 then reboots

Did you set the bios settings?

There is a post on the DP BoP forums about start up issues. In the linked post, issue #2 talks about not being able to start up - so may be worth investigating.

http://www.dutchpinball.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=105

I did not..how do you go about that?

See if these instructions are correct for your computer: http://www.dutchpinball.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=42

My computer is a gygabyte

the settings will be similar. I can't be sure. I have the zotac

Yeah it’s similar