BOP 2.0 Owners Club (Members Only)

(Topic ID: 72381)

BOP 2.0 Owners Club (Members Only)


By awarner

5 years ago



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  • 159 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by mollyspub
  • Topic is favorited by 62 Pinsiders

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#2251 1 year ago
Quoted from awarner:

So here's the deal. The Image that you create with Clonezilla is the exact same size as the Source drive. What that means is that if you copy it to a bigger drive, it'll still show up as the smaller drive size. There are utilities that will allow you to expand it out to fill the new drive but that has to be done after the drive is back in the computer and booted. So if you just follow my instructions, your 60GB drive will still appear to be 40GB. If you back it up again, it'll still appear to be a 40GB drive (unless you expanded it). You obviously can't copy a larger image to a smaller drive.
I couldn't find a smaller SSD drive than 60GB and I don't care about the 20GB in unused space but if you do, you can try this to get it back: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc771473(v=ws.11).aspx
But remember that your future drive will now have to be bigger than your new total space used.

Thanks, Al. I'm watching your video for a second time because I'm a little dense and missed some of the menu options you chose.

So you're saying that I can just follow your instructions to create my image with Clonezilla, and that image will be 30 GB (I was on the 2nd run, so I have a Gigabyte mini-PC, which appears to have a 30 GB hard drive).

Then, I think I would follow Cheddar's advice and put the image on a hard drive (let's say a 60 GB HDD), and if I cared about the unused space, I should be able to create a 30 GB partition on the new HDD, clone to it, and then after I boot the image, I can expand the C:/ to fill the rest of the space.

Is this correct?

Thanks.

#2252 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

You also have remember there are really not a lot of these around, I think the two Dutch Pinball runs were each 25, I can't imagine the Cointaker/Nitro run was more than 50. So 100 kits out there, probably only 50-75 of them installed.

I just picked up a super nice BOP....I wonder how many kits are floating around for sale reasonably.

#2253 1 year ago

Hi, new member of the club. I picked a complete restored bop 2.0 with color dmd and new playfield in trade for my ij 93. Not sure if I made the right move or not. Time will tell. Quick question that probably gets asked a million times. Does the head spin on 2.0? Seems like such an integral part of the game but I'm afraid might not be a feature. I noticed there is a head position feature in the menu but nothing regarding spinning.

#2254 1 year ago

Okay, I played it some more and noticed the heads spins in multi ball and after will stop on a random side, at least I think it is random. Not sure the rules. Also noticed when I got the extra ball on small wheel game said to lit lanes but they never lit for extra ball? Played about 15 games and never got an extra ball.

#2255 1 year ago
Quoted from Slim64:

I just picked up a super nice BOP....I wonder how many kits are floating around for sale reasonably.

Very few, contact Cointaker and Nitro to see if they have any left. Most of us bought them for $1800-$2000, so expect to pay that much at least.

#2256 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Not sure the rules.

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/20#post-2606750 and https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/4#post-2077032 for rules (if you don't want to find out yourself).

Also noticed when I got the extra ball on small wheel game said to lit lanes but they never lit for extra ball? Played about 15 games and never got an extra ball.

"Return to base", one of the small wheel modes is about lighting all four orange inserts in outlanes and inlanes to get an extra ball lit in one of those rollovers. Before the timer reaches zero, obviously. You can move the lights with flipper buttons. The low-risk approach for this is to shoot the Shuttle ramp (left) four times and move the lights accordingly. Shooting the Heartbeat ramp (middle) doesn't activate the rollover switch, so that doesn't help.

#2257 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarkko:

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/20#post-2606750 and https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/4#post-2077032 for rules (if you don't want to find out yourself).

"Return to base", one of the small wheel modes is about lighting all four orange inserts in outlanes and inlanes to get an extra ball lit in one of those rollovers. Before the timer reaches zero, obviously. You can move the lights with flipper buttons. The low-risk approach for this is to shoot the Shuttle ramp (left) four times and move the lights accordingly. Shooting the Heartbeat ramp (middle) doesn't activate the rollover switch, so that doesn't help.

Great, thank you. I remember rolling over the lanes but the lights would not lite. I was unable to successfully hit the ramp which maybe is required before triggering the lights.

One last very stupid question, how do I play the original version? I don't believe my game allows you to move the flippers to select between 2.0 and williams like I see in the videos. It's possible I was just too excited and over looked it.

Really fun game though and so far I am glad I made the trade...I think.

#2258 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarkko:

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/20#post-2606750 and https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-owners-club-members-only/page/4#post-2077032 for rules (if you don't want to find out yourself).

"Return to base", one of the small wheel modes is about lighting all four orange inserts in outlanes and inlanes to get an extra ball lit in one of those rollovers. Before the timer reaches zero, obviously. You can move the lights with flipper buttons. The low-risk approach for this is to shoot the Shuttle ramp (left) four times and move the lights accordingly. Shooting the Heartbeat ramp (middle) doesn't activate the rollover switch, so that doesn't help.

Also, practice shatzing. It's not easy on BOP but doable. Never thought of this until Colin (Snailman) came over one day to play and he did it to get the extra ball. Freaking light went off in my head!

Quoted from Djshakes:

Great, thank you. I remember rolling over the lanes but the lights would not lite. I was unable to successfully hit the ramp which maybe is required before triggering the lights.
One last very stupid question, how do I play the original version? I don't believe my game allows you to move the flippers to select between 2.0 and williams like I see in the videos. It's possible I was just too excited and over looked it.
Really fun game though and so far I am glad I made the trade...I think.

Quick check since it's a new game to you. Do those lights turn on in attract mode? If not, it's either the bulbs or matrix. Those are all on an individual board under the playfield and if memory serves me correctly the power is daisy chained to them so if the the first one is broken it could impact the others.

To play 1.0 you hold the start button down to get back to the main menu.

#2259 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Also, practice shatzing. It's not easy on BOP but doable. Never thought of this until Colin (Snailman) came over one day to play and he did it to get the extra ball. Freaking light went off in my head!

Quick check since it's a new game to you. Do those lights turn on in attract mode? If not, it's either the bulbs or matrix. Those are all on an individual board under the playfield and if memory serves me correctly the power is daisy chained to them so if the the first one is broken it could impact the others.
To play 1.0 you hold the start button down to get back to the main menu.

Thanks so much. All lights work and switches register. Must be my horrible game play. I'll play more tonight. Both games. This is awesome.

Is there any benefit to selecting a specific face to start?

#2260 1 year ago

You have to select the face it's on when that option shows up. That is how 2.0 syncs the head.

#2261 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

You have to select the face it's on when that option shows up. That is how 2.0 syncs the head.

Understood. Thanks. I just noticed it in the test menu. Must be the same thing.

1 week later
#2262 1 year ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Yes -- sounds and switch lag. Due to the layer of emulation running though a PC. I notice it, but not enough to really bug me when I want to go back and play 1.0. What really throws me is the voices. They sound so very, very off.

The 1.0 emulation sounds do suck! If anybody can figure out how to use the remastered voices and music (.wav files) by pinsound that would be awesome. They have everything organized, just need a good programmer to get it done. See the below link for all the pin sound remastered sound files.

https://www.pinsound.org/pinballs/wpc-alpha-dmd/the-machine/

#2263 1 year ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

The 1.0 emulation sounds do suck! If anybody can figure out how to use the remastered voices and music (.wav files) by pinsound that would be awesome. They have everything organized, just need a good programmer to get it done. See the link below for all the wav files for bride of pinbot 1.0.

https://www.pinsound.org/pinballs/wpc-alpha-dmd/the-machine/

#2264 1 year ago

After every game, sometimes every other game, the machine will not power back up via the normal power switch. I need to crawl under the machine and pull the power to the computer (or I can pull the plug inside the backbox). Any idea why the computer is not shutting down correctly like this?

#2265 1 year ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

The 1.0 emulation sounds do suck! If anybody can figure out how to use the remastered voices and music (.wav files) by pinsound that would be awesome. They have everything organized, just need a good programmer to get it done. See the below link for all the pin sound remastered sound files.
https://www.pinsound.org/pinballs/wpc-alpha-dmd/the-machine/

Unless I missed an announcement, these are neither remastered versions of the low quality sound ROMs, nor the original high quality masters (or remastered versions thereof). These are just identical copies of the sound ROMs.

PinSound have been trying to get hold of the original masters for all the WMS games, but have so far been unsuccessful. I imagine they must be sitting in a WMS archive somewhere.

1 week later
#2266 1 year ago

The power strip my BoP 2.0 was plugged into was turned off while the game was on, now the code is messed up. It has version 1.19 and says PINMAME ROM : BOP_L6.

Can anyone walk this computer illiterate through the seemingly impossible task of fixing it?

Thanks in advance.

#2267 1 year ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

The power strip my BoP 2.0 was plugged into was turned off while the game was on, now the code is messed up. It has version 1.19 and says PINMAME ROM : BOP_L6.
Can anyone walk this computer illiterate through the seemingly impossible task of fixing it?
Thanks in advance.

Well, that should be fine. 1.19 is the latest version, and Pinmame ROM is the version of the ROM used in emulation mode when it boots up under BoP 1.0. Make sense?

#2268 1 year ago

When I bought the 2.0, there was a note that instructed not to unplug the machine for 10 minutes after turning the machine off. I guess this allows the computer to power down properly?

I accidentally turned the power strip off while the machine was on, now the code is messed up. The head call outs are off and it scores improperly on the regular version. The head doesn't register on the 2.0 version. High scores are not saved.

I think the code got messed up? I have no idea where to start.

Threw in the version info, as that's about all I know, lol.

#2269 1 year ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

When I bought the 2.0, there was a note that instructed not to unplug the machine for 10 minutes after turning the machine off. I guess this allows the computer to power down properly?
I accidentally turned the power strip off while the machine was on, now the code is messed up. The head call outs are off and it scores improperly on the regular version. The head doesn't register on the 2.0 version. High scores are not saved.
I think the code got messed up? I have no idea where to start.
Threw in the version info, as that's about all I know, lol.

It could be that something is corrupted in your image. It's not the kind of thing that happens when you shut off too quickly... Just like PCs usually recover on a power fail.

When you say the head call outs are off, what do you mean exactly? Also...high scores not being saved, that's just plain odd.

My recommendation is you reach out to DP on this one. If you do end up having to restore from a backup image, I'm sure that can be arranged. (Good reason to keep your own backup, fwiw.)

#2270 1 year ago

It was on the wrong head or something, would say "vocal link" and then "optical" immediately after. I messed around with the menu switch test and somehow the machine "configured head". Seems to be working differently now. It's at least sensing the ball on the 2.0 version.

I have no idea what's going on, only that there was a note about not unplugging for 10 minutes...and my neighbors and I noticed the game was messed up after powering back on.

All we were doing was setting the game to 6.5 degrees when I accidentally hit the power strip switch! It was at 7.2 degrees...much more fun at 6.5...but I messed up the dang code or something!

Will play a few games...maybe a miracle has occurred.

Thanks.

#2271 1 year ago

Now the old version starts with the face in plain robot head position, which I'm pretty sure is correct. When I shoot the shuttle ramp, the game calls out "engage vocal...", but the head does not move to mouth hole position. Shoot shuttle ramp again, ball rolls over plain robot face into lock and says "I can speak", then face moves to mouth hole position.

...."engage optical" when ball goes into mouth hole.

Anyone know of a simple reboot?

#2272 1 year ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

Now the old version starts with the face in plain robot head position, which I'm pretty sure is correct. When I shoot the shuttle ramp, the game calls out "engage vocal...", but the head does not move to mouth hole position. Shoot shuttle ramp again, ball rolls over plain robot face into lock and says "I can speak", then face moves to mouth hole position.
...."engage optical" when ball goes into mouth hole.
Anyone know of a simple reboot?

You should go into the menu functions while in BoP 1.0 and calibrate head. It should start on the open mouth face. Since you didn't disconnect the head, and conceivably it was working before the power failure, it could just be set to the wrong face.

Usually, when you switch back and forth between DP and Williams emulation, it asks you to adjust the head to a specific location. Can you verify that?

#2273 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

After every game, sometimes every other game, the machine will not power back up via the normal power switch. I need to crawl under the machine and pull the power to the computer (or I can pull the plug inside the backbox). Any idea why the computer is not shutting down correctly like this?

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks!

#2274 1 year ago

Hi cheeks,

I have read about a similar problem as you have.
Have a look at the extra board that powers the computer automatically on and off.
What happens when you turn it on, and what happens when you turn it off.

#2275 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks!

Put your game on a power strip so you can fully power down the computer. The utility outlet in the cabinet that it plugs into still gets power when the game is off (so you can plug in soldering iron or light to work on a game). I've found I've had no problems with my 2.0 if I put the game on a power strip, turn on the power strip about 10-20 seconds before I flip the game power switch to power up the P-Rock, then it boots in the right order. Similarly, when shutting down, I click off the game power switch, watch stuff shut down, then flip the power strip so the computer powers down too.

#2276 1 year ago

I use a different setup with an autosensing power strip.

The PC is plugged into always on power
The Monitor is plugged into the master outlet
The amp is plugged into the controlled outlet

On mine shutdown goes like this
I turn off the machine power at the switch
PC starts shutdown
PC completes shutdown and turns off
Monitor goes into power saving
Power strip senses the monitor is off and turns off amp

If the pc is not shutting down we need to find out why the startup/shutdown controller is not working

#2277 1 year ago

I had an similar issue once. What I did to resolve it, was to press the "manual" butten on the shutdown controller board, PC powering off, completly unplug the whole machine for a few seconds. Plug it back in and switch it on. I can remember I did that 2 times at least, then it worked again.

I'm pretty sure the Shutdown Controller had blinking LED of some sort too...

Yet, I have a batch 1 BoP2.0 - YMMV (a lot)

#2278 1 year ago

It seems like your problem is with your autosensing power strip then.

#2279 1 year ago

Mine is similar to Cheddar with the autosensing power strip:

The PC is plugged into the Master Outlet
The amp and monitor is plugged into the controlled outlet
On mine shutdown goes like this
I turn off the machine power at the switch
PC starts shutdown
PC completes shutdown and turns off
Power strip senses the PC is off and turns off amp and monitor

Quoted from Cheddar:

I use a different setup with an autosensing power strip.
The PC is plugged into always on power
The Monitor is plugged into the master outlet
The amp is plugged into the controlled outlet
On mine shutdown goes like this
I turn off the machine power at the switch
PC starts shutdown
PC completes shutdown and turns off
Monitor goes into power saving
Power strip senses the monitor is off and turns off amp
If the pc is not shutting down we need to find out why the startup/shutdown controller is not working

#2280 1 year ago

So the shutdown is happening in the opposite order, you want the P-rock board and monitor to shut down first, then the PC shut down last. First on, last off... at least that's how I've been operating my game and it eliminated the boot up errors.

1 week later
#2281 1 year ago

I am selling my fully restored bop 2.0. It is listed in the classifieds here. Honest question, am I out of line asking $6950? I swapped a nice ij Williams plus cash to get this. Part of cash went to delivery and pick up of games. He lived 10 hrs away. I want to be realistic in my expectations.

#2282 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I am selling my fully restored bop 2.0. It is listed in the classifieds here. Honest question, am I out of line asking $6950? I swapped a nice ij Williams plus cash to get this. Part of cash went to delivery and pick up of games. He lived 10 hrs away. I want to be realistic in my expectations.

From your ad:
$2000-base game
$2000-Bop 2.0 package with color dmd.
$500-new Bop 2.0 decals and translite
$100-new rails
$300-new ramps
$1000-brand new playfield
(included with 2.0 kit) -flipper fidelity speakers and amp
$15-new shooter rod assembly
-lit flipper button
-comet leds throughout
-the good pop bumper led rings from pinball life
-new legs
-new colored posts and purple silicone rubbers
-custom bop apron magnet
$50 -new upper playfield
-helmet super nice original
$100-new faces

I'm guessing around $6k in parts. Labor costs really depends. Some people like doing it, some people don't. Not sure how to charge for it unless it was done by one of the big names in restorations, but let's say $1k. You are the second owner, it has been enjoyed, etc. Say it has 500 plays since being redone. At $1 per game, take $500 off.

$7k seems high, $6500 seems more reasonable.

#2283 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I am selling my fully restored bop 2.0. It is listed in the classifieds here. Honest question, am I out of line asking $6950? I swapped a nice ij Williams plus cash to get this. Part of cash went to delivery and pick up of games. He lived 10 hrs away. I want to be realistic in my expectations.

You are priced correctly

#2284 1 year ago

Thanks guys. I am definitely flexible and want to be realistic.

#2285 1 year ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

From your ad:
$2000-base game
$2000-Bop 2.0 package with color dmd.
$500-new Bop 2.0 decals and translite
$100-new rails
$300-new ramps
$1000-brand new playfield
(included with 2.0 kit) -flipper fidelity speakers and amp
$15-new shooter rod assembly
-lit flipper button
-comet leds throughout
-the good pop bumper led rings from pinball life
-new legs
-new colored posts and purple silicone rubbers
-custom bop apron magnet
$50 -new upper playfield
-helmet super nice original
$100-new faces
I'm guessing around $6k in parts. Labor costs really depends. Some people like doing it, some people don't. Not sure how to charge for it unless it was done by one of the big names in restorations, but let's say $1k. You are the second owner, it has been enjoyed, etc. Say it has 500 plays since being redone. At $1 per game, take $500 off.
$7k seems high, $6500 seems more reasonable.

Could you please help me find a $2000 base bop!?? I’d really appreciate it

#2286 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Could you please help me find a $2000 base bop!?? I’d really appreciate it

I know of one in CA. It plays fine but it needs restoration.

#2287 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Could you please help me find a $2000 base bop!?? I’d really appreciate it

I see them pop up on the game lists for re-imports fairly often, last container from Italy we had shipped full of games, someone bought one for I think $1500. But those definitely take some work to clean up.

#2288 1 year ago

Hey, this makes me happy.

#2289 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

I see them pop up on the game lists for re-imports fairly often, last container from Italy we had shipped full of games, someone bought one for I think $1500. But those definitely take some work to clean up.

That is the kind of game you want if you are swapping playfields, putting in a 2.0 kit, and redecaling the cabinet.

#2290 1 year ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

That is the kind of game you want if you are swapping playfields, putting in a 2.0 kit, and redecaling the cabinet.

Which Is exactly what I’m looking for

#2291 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Which Is exactly what I’m looking for

Wish I had one -- it would be yours.

#2292 1 year ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Wish I had one -- it would be yours.

Nice bro, I appreciate that!

I need to be clear... I’ll be on the hunt again soon, or something... all my efforts at the moment are here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/backyard-gameroom-in-the-desert/page/3#post-4033184

I personally have never seen a bop at that grade or price, I want another I can convert badly, I have the 2.0 kit and Playfield. But damnit, I’m so invested in expanding space I can’t yet... yet. Stay tuned

#2293 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Nice bro, I appreciate that!
I need to be clear... I’ll be on the hunt again soon, or something... all my efforts at the moment are here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/backyard-gameroom-in-the-desert/page/3#post-4033184
I personally have never seen a bop at that grade or price, I want another I can convert badly, I have the 2.0 kit and Playfield. But damnit, I’m so invested in expanding space I can’t yet... yet. Stay tuned

That looks really good.

-1
#2294 1 year ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

From your ad:
$2000-base game
$2000-Bop 2.0 package with color dmd.
$500-new Bop 2.0 decals and translite
$100-new rails
$300-new ramps
$1000-brand new playfield
(included with 2.0 kit) -flipper fidelity speakers and amp
$15-new shooter rod assembly
-lit flipper button
-comet leds throughout
-the good pop bumper led rings from pinball life
-new legs
-new colored posts and purple silicone rubbers
-custom bop apron magnet
$50 -new upper playfield
-helmet super nice original
$100-new faces
I'm guessing around $6k in parts. Labor costs really depends. Some people like doing it, some people don't. Not sure how to charge for it unless it was done by one of the big names in restorations, but let's say $1k. You are the second owner, it has been enjoyed, etc. Say it has 500 plays since being redone. At $1 per game, take $500 off.
$7k seems high, $6500 seems more reasonable.

BoP is a really fun game, but it's basically a system 11 in terms of play, not boardset. It's a 1500 game, play-wise, and can be had for half that in working order if you are patient. If your look here yeah you'll overpay for the base, it's what people do here. 2.0 kit runs better part of 2k. Expect $1500 returned on that cost. Alternate cab and translight are with nothing and cost money to replace. You did that because you like it, that don't mean anyone else will pay extra for it. New shooter, nothing. New pf has value but it's used now too, $700 to start but unless the old one is coming too it's not $700 more in game value. Just because you put not into a game thank it's worth did not make it worth that much. A 2.0 is worth about 3-3.5k. I wouldn't sell mine for that, but that does not make it worth what I'd need to get to take it from me. Just adding the parts cost is unrealistic. Putting a 50k kitchen in a run down house does not make the house worth that much more. There is an intrinsic value of things that people here don't like to pay attention to when pricing things. Will someone pay 7k, sure it will take time but you can always find a sucker if you get lucky and are patient.

#2295 1 year ago

I just finished this up for a buddy of mine. I would have put chrome trim on it if it was mine.

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#2296 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I just finished this up for a buddy of mine. I would have put chrome trim on it if it was mine.

Beautiful!

Quoted from lyonsden:

That looks really good.

Thank you!

#2297 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I just finished this up for a buddy of mine. I would have put chrome trim on it if it was mine.

I'm not a fan of the changes that were done, but as always the work you do is absolutely fantastic. I wouldn't hesitate to have you do a game of mine if I was needing one done.

#2298 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I just finished this up for a buddy of mine. I would have put chrome trim on it if it was mine.

Looks great but no CPR faces?
What did you do with the back panel crate as mine are brittle and yellowed?

#2299 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

I'm not a fan of the changes that were done, but as always the work you do is absolutely fantastic. I wouldn't hesitate to have you do a game of mine if I was needing one done.

Yup. It may not be for everyone. It doesn't matter what I think. You pay me money and I'll do pretty much whatever you want to your game.

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#2300 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Looks great but no CPR faces?
What did you do with the back panel crate as mine are brittle and yellowed?

I was fortunate and these weren't bad. Just needed cleaning.

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From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 129.00
Lighting - Led
LED OCD
$ 28.00
$ 369.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 150.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
From: $ 29.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 50.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 20.00
Playfield - Decals
DevilsMuse Arcade
3,150 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Grand Island, NY
Hey modders!
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