She sure is a pretty girl!

This is post #2000 in the BOP 2.0 thread. Winner winner chicken dinner. (There is no other information of any note in this post. These are not the droids you are looking for.)

He says in post "#2002"

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Ughhh.... #2002 ....foiled. I am ruined. Best go quietly into the arcade.

You never do any game half ass tatman. Did you re-clear the pf?

Looks great. I'm jealous of all the people with those decals. I've never done decal work. I'm sure I'd F it up.

I do have 2.0, a new PF and plastics though, so everything else looks good.

Just installed a played a few games of 1.18( beta). Love that modes will continue if interrupted by multiball and the scoop shot will now add time to a mode! A great game is now even better!

Assuming you mean 1.18 and not 1.17, anything else new or noteworthy in it?

BoP 2.0 changelog:

http://www.dutchpinball.com/bop2/software/changelog.txt

Is there a download link for 1.18? Looks like a considerable improvement over 1.16 - 1.17 being buggy.

Hi, can someone help provide a link for installation manual of USA version of BOP 2.0. I found the Dutch pinball link and it is no longer available.

Did you have the cab art printed or is it for sale somewhere?

Back in the day (like 1.5 years ago), I shared the design I made with a few bop2.0 owners. I'm not allowed to anymore for obvious reasons... yet I saw a English guy selling it online

Dang it's been that long.

And thanks a ton for doing those, you brought many 2.0's to another level.

I have an extra set of BOP 2.0 cabinet art... I was going to frame them, but would be open to selling them for what I paid or trading for something interesting. Also, I could really use a new chrome BOP helmet.

Friday I have received my BoP 2.0 kit. Saturday I booted her up for the first time, and today I started to fix the things that were not (yet) working. I performed a playfield swap while I was waiting for the kit, so many switches needed readjusting, and (of course) half of the leds needed reversing. But, we are getting somewhere. I am able to start a game now, and she really plays well already, except for two things:

1. The head does not move. The coils, switches and leds inside work though.
2. The entrance gate for the mini playfield (behind the helmet) is energized immediately when I turn on the power on the machine (so, well before any of the software is loaded).

As a pointer for 1, I can tell the controller board under the playfield has been ultrasonically cleaned (like half a year ago) as someone told me this was a good idea.

Hope someone can point me in the right direction!

This I just fixed. Apparently, I miswired a 1-wired connector to J132 instead of J106.

Now the only problem remaining is the face that does not rotate. Which connector on the driverboard should I double-check?

If you go into the 1.0 software you can check to see if the head can be moved manually. That may be the best test to try first.

There is a small controller board mounted under the playfield that takes care of the motor. I would check that connection as well.

Thanks!

In 1.0 I tried to test it, it does not work. It reports an error calibrating the head. The board (you mean the one under the top left of the playfield, right?) has the connectors attached to it. What surprises me, is that the connectors going to this board do not match the color of the wires going to the engine (which I expected if the board controls the engine). Should it be possible to rotate the face by hand?

I do have a digital multi meter and "some" skills, what can I measure? Power to the board? Power to the engine? What should they be?

Another thing that may or may not be related, I noticed that there seem to be a small short in the flashers. The two flashers near the ramp entrances light up lightly together with the flashers on the side of the helmet. But these were replaced by leds, so it might also be ghosting.

I plan on joining this club soon.......

Here is a good read on that board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-face-motor-relay-fix

Hah. So it's not the board I first mentioned. Then what does the board on the left end of the playfield do?

I will be sure to check the small board with the relay on it!

There are three boards related to the head assembly. One is the motor control, one is the switch relay, and one is the helmet chase lights.

The relay is pictured in the above link. I had erratic behavior until I re-flowed the old solder joints on that board as indicated.
The motor control is on the end of the playfield behind the head in the corner.

There is also a fuse involved in this, so make sure you haven't blown any.

One thing I did was first try touching a 9v battery to the motor leads to make sure the motor worked and everything turned as it should. This isolated the motor and assembly itself from being a cause of problems. Since the head isn't turning at all, the next step would be looking at fuses, that motor control board, all the connections are correct, etc. At one point, I had those connections wrong or backward, that would cause an issue.

Finally there is the relay bit. It could be related, though this is going beyond my knowledge at this point.

Anyone encounter any bugs with 1.18? Haven't seen any postings on the DP forum.

Approximately 100 games so far... we didn't encounter any yet. I also had it in a tournament.

Only thing is that my 200k skill shot light stays on for some reason. And the left inlane/outline inserts too. I probably got to check the matrix/diodes there.

I figured I'd start with double checking the wires and connectors, as it used to work before I did the playfield swap.

I started by comparing the wires as photographed by another forum member before he commenced the swap (https://www.dropbox.com/home/Bride-of-pinbot_Playfield-swap). There I notice that J119 is not populated, yet on my driver board I have a VIO WHT/VIO connector there:

Look, J119 is populated!

Could someone check his/her pin? Maybe I miswired this connector as well, but I can't see another place where it would fit.

Edit1: According to the manual, a wire leading to the display driver board (J306) has the same pin layout. Since I don't have this display board anymore, I may have puzzled the wire to go to J119? Or should this have a black/gray power connector (I also have one of those lying around).

Edit2: Futhermore, I found that J122 on the driverboard is the connector that controls the chase light, relay and motor driver board. Since the chase lights are working, I assume this connector is not misplaced.

And on a completely ..eh ..related subject: can the face assembly be removed completely from the bottom? Or do I have to disassemble the helmet and possibly some ramps?

Yesterday a friend of mine came over to (try to) tackle the problem. By deduction we decided the triac connected to the wire responsible for controlling the motor to be the culprit. So we removed the driver board and sacrificed a triac associated with a flasher and performed a swap. Still no result. Since we ruled out everything else it could be nothing but a wiring issue. And sure enough, the wire that controls the engine in connector J122 was loose. So 4 hours of debugging ended with a very simple fix. But it was fun, we learned some new things, and that's what this hobby is all about .

Anyone else felt bummed at first?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reveal-dutch-pinball-title-2

No, it looks like amateur garbage art. Horrible. But I am bummed that my Lebowski is being held hostage whole they've announced a 2nd game. Shades of Jpop.

Does anyone else think of Donphan when looking at the backglass?

Playfield design is nice though... but I'm a 'purist' and didn't even like jackbot's version of the Bride. And tbh as a BoP2.0 owner I don't care about the super 2.1 LE Version in any way.

Fortunately I'm not seeing any jpop similarities here. I wish them all the best, amazing sales figures and giant profits. Looking forward to TBL being made, so anyone who wants one can actually buy it

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guau! i was thinking about buy the bop 2.0 kit a few days ago... and... i dont know what can i do!

What do you think? wait a few days? or take it now?

i dont like the new super le bop, but, i feel that if i buy the 2.0 kit... im buying an old pinball? you know me? my english is very very poor. sorry.

Get the kit already! You could be playing it like next month!

jejejej, yes i know, yesterday i bought a BOP, but, i want to make a "high restoration", i will need more of one month, sure.

Just joined the club, but have not installed the kit yet, I have a couple of questions:

is the code up to a good place?

is the game still worth upgrading the 2.0 kit to?

replayability... is it there?

I ask these because I still love the original and have no problem keeping it stock, however... it's 2.0... should I go for it?

You can still play original code with 2.0, so it's 2 games in one.

Yes sir, I'm aware, just want to make sure it's worth while, unless there's someone out there desperately needing it

The 2.0 code and system is really, really good. They did an excellent job with the rules, sounds, and animation. Also, if you like euro techno, you will definitely enjoy some of the mode music (I'm not a fan, but it works). I say go for it and enjoy it.

As much as I hate Dutch Pinball right now - I'll still say that bop 2.0 is an incredible mod/upgrade/modernization of BOP. Whether it's right for you - that's up to you! Maybe check out some YouTube videos of it if you haven't already?

I've played the game a few times at tpf , but there were glitches, it looked cool , and there was only one kit left, I couldn't resist after turning down the pin I went to tpf to buy

So I have my kit installed two weeks ago, and I notice the power supply for the amp gets quite hot, also when not used.

According to the (EU) manual, it should be connected to an unswitched outlet, but I am afraid to leave it on 24/7 because of this. I see two options:

(1) creating a second power *switched* outlet, and connect the power supply to that one (can also be useful if I want to connect an extra string of LEDs later)
(2) ditching the extra power supply, and connecting the amp to the 12v from the transformer.

Btw, the amp seems a little under powered to me, if it is capable of running from a (1A?) 12V power supply, can it ever in all seriousness produce enough power to drive 100 watt+ speakers? I mean, serious car amps all need super extra thick wires or even second batteries.

I used a third option; A power-sensing power strip connected to an unswitched outlet. I have the PC plugged into the sensor outlet, so when the PC fully shuts down, power drops to the amp and the display.

As for the amp, so far I haven't had any distortion on the mids/fronts and I'm pretty sensitive to that sort of thing. I do find the amp a bit lacking in precision on the adjustment pots but (along with rattle tape) patience and small tuning gets you there.

Thanks for your answer, will look into the switching power supply, it's a great idea! (Edit: just ordered one!)

The sound from the amp isn't all that bad, the biggest problem comes from the fact that the amount of bass it generates, everything in the machine is resonating, mostly the speaker panel.

I had that problem as well. I found that two things helped. First, I dropped the bass speaker volume somewhat, though I like it high so not too much. Second, I installed rattle tape on the glass which was resonating the most. That seemed to do the trick.

These are good tips, I have had similar problems with other games that I've upgraded with Pinball Pro speakers. What "rattle tape" are you using?

I didn't know rattle tape existed. On my met, the shaker and sub when first installed, rattled the hell out of it. About a half roll of electrical tape and a few pieces of weatherstrip did the trick.

Don't waste your money on special tape. Just center a strip of electrical tape on the edge of the glass. Fold it over both sides. Problem solved.