The connector is keyed. So why is this such a concern with it being off?
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I wanted to report a weird issue I had. I had intermittently slings, pops, spinner, and shooter lane stop registering. Mid game, they would work then some would stop working. Pops were not all that responsive.
I tried BOP1 via the emulation and it worked perfectly. Back to BOP2 and it would work intermittently. These are all in column 5 of the switch matrix, the green black wire. I figured it couldnt be a wiring issue since my BOP1 worked perfectly. But I am guessing there was resistance in my wire or something and perhaps pyprocgame pulses the matrix differently than pinmame. In either case, I ended up running a second wire to the backbox from the front slingshot and a wire from front slingshot to rear slingshot. This guarantees everything has good connection. Haven't been able to reproduce it since.
Moral of this story is to not assume the problem is software even if the BOP1 works.
Quoted from Joshmx19:I am having some similar issues with switches not registering. I took the P-roc board off to just make sure there wasn't some cold solder but all looked good. Hopefully when I redo my connectors all will be good but who knows.
You should make a list of of the switches. Maybe we can see a pattern and make a suggestion. Note that the switch numbers reported by the bop2 software are not rated to the matrix in the bop1 manual for example, switch 38 (col 3 row8) is called switch 71 by bop2. We need the bop1 switch numbers for debugging.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:I could not, for the life of me, get that wifi antenna to connect to the PC. It just would not thread on to the input. Am I missing something?? Does it just push on? I tried for about 10 minutes to get it connected, and finally gave up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I had to buy another one.
I found at local shop. They're easy to find and cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-TL-WDR3500-Directional/dp/B00DOGRZYG/ref=sr_1_2
The little pc used probably doesn't draw much power. Most smart strips have an adjustment pot for this purpose.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:A few of the USA kits had DC power adapters with switches on them to select different power output for the Display. It was set on 12v and will not work if changed to a lower value.
The hum is interesting. Is your machine properly grounded with your main plug?
EDIT: Calvin is correct. The Amp had a power supply in the box with it. If you hooked up your display adapter to the amp, this will not cause an issue since it is a 12v supply for both the amp and the display. But please use the power adapter that came with the amp for the amp.
Thanks,
--Scott
Where is the display getting power? The Lepai 168 amp can draw quite a bit of amperage - well over 6 amps from a 12v source. The amp should definitely not be powered by the power driver board in the game. And even most display power adapters will not have enough amperage to properly drive this little amp. Interestingly enough, the Lepai ships with different adapters. Sometimes 1.5 amps, sometimes 3 amps. It is never enough and people usually have to upgrade this.
Remember ohms law, 3 amp at 12v will only provide for 36 watts total. The amp is rated (probably falsely) at 148 watts. This would require at least a 12amp 12v power adapter. Even if your 12v runs hot at around 14v, you still need over 10 amps to meet the possible power demands.
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