I use inc for the helmet, can't stand LEDs there, the rest of my game is led though.

Scott,
Thanks for the reply. I did report this to DP support a few weeks ago and yourself (via pm) and I got a reply from you that you would check and see what yours is doing...never heard back from DP support though. So does your have this issue?

Glad to have info on the smart strips. One I bought had an adjustment, the other did not, neither would work correctly.

thanks, Brad

a few weeks ago vi

Hey Brad,
I apologize, I was unable to reproduce the behavior that you were describing. Are you using LEDs? Is it possible you can record a video of the strange behavior?

Thank you,
--Scott

Earlier here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-20-help-thread#post-2298440

Excellent. Thanks guys. Are any of you experiencing the same issue?
--Scott

No worries. I made 4 short videos and happy to make more-- and longer ones. Kept them short as I was not sure how I was going to post them when I took them. I have incandescent lamps in the helmet.
I don't know what to look for as a fix since the helmet chases quite nicely in 1.9, not 1.91 or 1.92. The "progress bar effect" works fine in 1.9 but not the others as well. This is the effect where the helmet lights act as a progress bar when the software is loading.

Holler if you want more video.

Brad

If

A couple of questions:

I'm installed and it's working beautifully. I had the accessory power port in my BoP, so I am powering most of the components off the power strip plugged into the supply. All works well, but when I turn off main power to the machine, the system goes through a shutdown screen just fine. Once the display goes blank and the CPU is powered down, there is immediately a tremendous hum coming from the cabinet and speakers. It goes away when I turn the power strip off. Funny thing is that the hum isn't there when I flip the strip back on before I turn on the main power.

Normal, or bad?

Also, the AC adapter with the variable output - this is for the amp, correct? It's working fine with it at the moment. What should the output be dialed to on that for a USA machine in the USA?

there should be an adapter for the monitor. and the plug for the am should be in the box with the amp.

A few of the USA kits had DC power adapters with switches on them to select different power output for the Display. It was set on 12v and will not work if changed to a lower value.

The hum is interesting. Is your machine properly grounded with your main plug?

EDIT: Calvin is correct. The Amp had a power supply in the box with it. If you hooked up your display adapter to the amp, this will not cause an issue since it is a 12v supply for both the amp and the display. But please use the power adapter that came with the amp for the amp.

Thanks,
--Scott

Where is the display getting power? The Lepai 168 amp can draw quite a bit of amperage - well over 6 amps from a 12v source. The amp should definitely not be powered by the power driver board in the game. And even most display power adapters will not have enough amperage to properly drive this little amp. Interestingly enough, the Lepai ships with different adapters. Sometimes 1.5 amps, sometimes 3 amps. It is never enough and people usually have to upgrade this.

Remember ohms law, 3 amp at 12v will only provide for 36 watts total. The amp is rated (probably falsely) at 148 watts. This would require at least a 12amp 12v power adapter. Even if your 12v runs hot at around 14v, you still need over 10 amps to meet the possible power demands.

Mark,
The amp is definitely not pulling power from the PD board. The amp comes with a power supply that works very well in the machines and plugs into the 120v for the US kits. The display is also not pulling power from the PD board and has it's own power adapter as well.

Yes, Ohms law is an important one.

--Scott

At Dutch Pinball we respect Ohms law!

Great new slogan!

We very strictly abide by it

When I was unboxing, I mixed up the adapters. The variable one is set to 12V. Everything with a plug is being powered off of the surge strip they provided, and as far as I can tell, my game is properly grounded.

Again, there is no hum if the machine is off and I flip on the surge strip. It's only after turning the game off with the surge strip on, and only after the software has shut down.

During play, it works perfectly, with no hum.

Can you do me a favor and send a note to [email protected] outining the hum problem? I want to make sure we log this as something is definitely not right here.

Also, please make sure the audio cable is plugged all the way into the computer and the amp.

Thanks,
--Scott

does the hum die after the amp shuts down? the pc runs after the monitor goes dark. could you just be hearing noise from the open line, ground loop?

By any chance do you have your speaker wires running along your power wires? Those should be separated when at all possible to help prevent the chance of line noise. This is something that is done in aftermarket car stereo set-ups and since we are basically running auto equipment now it may help reduce/eliminate the noise.

Thanks for suggesting BELKIN smart strip. After purchasing 2 other brands with no success, the Belkin (which I could not find available online anymore) from my cocktail mame worked dandy in the BOP and all is now well with that.

Still have issues with the helmet lights, a fellow BOP 2.0 friend is bringing his controller board over on Wednesday so we will see what we will see.

"Bug" below will be reported to "support":
1.92
Multiball
2 balls drain close to same time
third ball is shot to shuttle ramp to mouth
head turns
ball drops into cabinet
This is during countdown to hit scoop to restart multiball
Suggest writing code to divert ball to PIN-BOT area BEFORE head turns.

thanks, Brad

I've been working with pinballnut to try and figure out the chase light issue on his 2.0 installation. We went through some troubleshooting steps and here are the findings. I will post this to the DP forums as well. I want to post them here to maintain a thread with pinballnut's

The environment:
The helmet contains incandescent bulbs and all bulbs work. There is no noticeable damage to wiring or circuitry

My helmet contains non-ghosting leds

The symptoms:
1. In 1.09 the chase lights work as expected. The progress animation and other scenes all flow normally
2. In 1.091 and 1.092 the animations are blocky and some lights do not come on

Testing
We tried 4 different scenarios:
1. His hardware after reseating all connections
2. My chase controller board with his helmet
3. My chase controller and helmet
4. His chase controller and my helmet

The animation issues persisted through all tests.

I was able to discuss the situation with a local who is famililar with P-roc and we came up with some theories:

1. His kit was received a week before mine. Is it possible that he received earlier software than I and the beta updates do not replace all BoP 2.0 files? i.e. are there proc libraries etc... that exist outside the BOP2 directory structure. If so, could a system image correct this issue?

2. Beta 1.091 introduced changes to the chase lighting to improve LED performance. I assume this involved changing the voltage range or somehow attenuating low voltages to eliminate strobing. If this is the case could corrosion or tarnishing on the pins on the driver board or connectors further exacerbate the issue?

I doubt #1 is the issue as both Korn and I got ours in December way before the rest. Now there might have been a corruption to his and a re-image can fix, but in that case just uninstall and reinstall the existing beta code first to see if that fixes it.

How would a beta reinstall work? Anybody have to do one?

delete the existing one, i believe its in the menus, then reinstall. They mentioned at the beta start we would need to remove old versions over time due to space limitations on the HD.

worth a try

Is this a pinmame issue or do I have something wrong? Here is what happens in 1.0. In 2.0 the coils fire correctly in test.

If I go into test mode I get:
- All lamps work perfectly
- All flashers work perfectly
- All high voltage coils work perfectly
- No low voltage coils will fire
- All switches register correctly (little funky with the switches for the items that go to the low voltage coils)
- If I press the switch for something that is associated to a low voltage coil the coil fires and switch registers.

Some examples -
- Testing the sling shots. In test the coil will not fire. I move to switch test and when I press on one of the leaf switches the sling fires.
- Same thing happens for all the pop bumpers and the other two sling shots.

Does anyone have a clue what I could have done wrong?

I believe that Koen adjusted the timing on the code that clocks the data into the helmet lamps. Clocking the data in faster should in theory reduce ghosting, but it's a fine balance between clocking "fast enough" versus "just a little too fast for some old boards to keep up with". Maybe he'll dial it back a little.

It's purely a software timing thing though - from the code there's no way to change voltages.

Just a FYI that I got 2.0 up and running again. Fried a couple of chips on my PROC when adjusting the pop switches. Gerry at PROC really went out of his way to help me get back up and running. Can't say enough great things about him.

Is proc all SMT or some through hole stuff? I've never looked at one up close

Most of it is SMT, but the components related to the switch matrix (and so most likely to be damaged if bad voltages get in) are socketed through hole components... Like any board though, push enough voltage where it shouldn't be and you could fry things further up the chain

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/p-roc/3.jpg

Is the head supposed to keep spinning while in multiball? Mines doing this and I'm not sure why as it always comes back to the correct home spot so it seems as though it's not having an issue finding where it's at.

The head should not keep spinning during multiball. Please check the head switch and be sure it is registering every time.

--Scott

Thanks. I'll check it out to see what's up.

def not, even when you lose MB it should stay in place until the ball is in the scoop, lock or outhole.

Got it working again. Turns out the switch that recognized the head location was sticking closed for a couple of seconds. Just long enough to where the game was changing the head location again before it would open back up. Put a new switch in there and all is good again.