Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991As the BOP 2.0 kits have started to ship I wanted to make a thread where we could help each other out with installation and issues. I'm making it mostly out of necessity because I have already had some issues with mine. I thought rather than bombard the few guys who beta tested the games we could put everything here and and if they chime in to help the common issues will be documented.
Lift the pf, close the switch manually to make sure it's not a switch issue. But if I recall isn't one of the connectors a different size than the block it plugs into. Make sure you were not one pin off.
Quoted from calvin12:Lift the pf, close the switch manually to make sure it's not a switch issue. But if I recall isn't one of the connectors a different size than the block it plugs into. Make sure you were not one pin off.
You nailed it! It was the connector being one off. It works now and I am impressed with it! Thanks!
Quoted from Cheddar:in 1.0 mode can you get to the switch test?
I couldn't get anywhere but now that it is resolved yes you can get to switch test in both modes. You can actually go into test during gameplay in 2.0. I just played a game had to fire the lock coil manually because after multiball the ball was stuck there. Pretty awesome!
are you running 1.09, 1.091beta pulses the lock coil on the second ball search (but I have not had a lost bell to test yet) so that should go away.
You can sign up for the Beta Test Program here:
http://www.dutchpinball.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=52
--Scott
Haven't installed, yet as I'm mid way through a restoration, but I can tell you those screws punch out the bottom very easily. Just tap them on the top with a hammer.
Quoted from alveolus:How did everyone deal with the long machine screws used for the old sub? They look like they will puncture the sub cone if the sub was installed there.
hammer then down from inside the cab to remove. they are the same as pop bumper bracket screw/nails. Place sub, drill new holes and mount the sub with new screws that should be included.
Quoted from calvin12:hammer then down from inside the cab to remove. they are the same as pop bumper bracket screw/nails. Place sub, drill new holes and mount the sub with new screws that should be included.
Ditto
its it showing up too high up?
if so, there setting there is a screen position setting, change it from 40 to 50.
Quoted from Cheddar:ok now I'm having the issue switching back to 1.0, it's bother flippers and start right?
Yeah both flippers and start. I had to hold it for a few seconds. I didn't know how to do it till today!
Going back to the original post that I made, I don't think I did have that connector on wrong because my start button issue comes back from time to time as well as a few other switches not registering. That connector that I thought was off by 1 has nothing to do with the start button. I think I need to get some new molex connectors on them. I had one 9 pin connector and enough pins but the wrong crimper (I never had to do a .1" connector yet) so I placed an order from great plains. Hopefully that will take care of it.
Quoted from Cheddar:ok now I'm having the issue switching back to 1.0, it's bother flippers and start right?
If you have 1.090 it's both flips and start to get out of 1.0, it takes a second or 2. If you have 1.091 beta, it's just hold start to go out of either. To go from 2.0 to 1.0 it's just hold start in both versions.
Anyone able to snap a pic of the one pin off cable properly plugged in? Running into the same issue and I want to make sure I have it hooked up correctly.
I wanted to report a weird issue I had. I had intermittently slings, pops, spinner, and shooter lane stop registering. Mid game, they would work then some would stop working. Pops were not all that responsive.
I tried BOP1 via the emulation and it worked perfectly. Back to BOP2 and it would work intermittently. These are all in column 5 of the switch matrix, the green black wire. I figured it couldnt be a wiring issue since my BOP1 worked perfectly. But I am guessing there was resistance in my wire or something and perhaps pyprocgame pulses the matrix differently than pinmame. In either case, I ended up running a second wire to the backbox from the front slingshot and a wire from front slingshot to rear slingshot. This guarantees everything has good connection. Haven't been able to reproduce it since.
Moral of this story is to not assume the problem is software even if the BOP1 works.
Quoted from markmon:I wanted to report a weird issue I had. I had intermittently slings, pops, spinner, and shooter lane stop registering. Mid game, they would work then some would stop working. Pops were not all that responsive.
I tried BOP1 via the emulation and it worked perfectly. Back to BOP2 and it would work intermittently. These are all in column 5 of the switch matrix, the green black wire. I figured it couldnt be a wiring issue since my BOP1 worked perfectly. But I am guessing there was resistance in my wire or something and perhaps pyprocgame pulses the matrix differently than pinmame. In either case, I ended up running a second wire to the backbox from the front slingshot and a wire from front slingshot to rear slingshot. This guarantees everything has good connection. Haven't been able to reproduce it since.
Moral of this story is to not assume the problem is software even if the BOP1 works.
I am having some similar issues with switches not registering. I took the P-roc board off to just make sure there wasn't some cold solder but all looked good. Hopefully when I redo my connectors all will be good but who knows.
Quoted from Joshmx19:I am having some similar issues with switches not registering. I took the P-roc board off to just make sure there wasn't some cold solder but all looked good. Hopefully when I redo my connectors all will be good but who knows.
You should make a list of of the switches. Maybe we can see a pattern and make a suggestion. Note that the switch numbers reported by the bop2 software are not rated to the matrix in the bop1 manual for example, switch 38 (col 3 row8) is called switch 71 by bop2. We need the bop1 switch numbers for debugging.
I had an issue with the left inlane and the 100k skill shot.both worked with original hardware. Turns out for both I needed to make the switches active sooner.They would register in 2.0 but not if the ball was bouncing.it wouldn't push the way all the way down long enough.I adjusted both to register when the write was still higher now they work flawlessly. I assume the switches were closing but maybe the computer needs it to close longer or it gets missed
Quoted from zsciaeount:WHERE IS THE INSTALLATION MANUAL?????
ITS RIGHT HERE 
Although in the US don't switch the fuse (not included anyway) and use the 12 volt wall adapter for the display . The instructions call out a split connector. This is not split any more and goes from the do board to the proc board
I could not, for the life of me, get that wifi antenna to connect to the PC. It just would not thread on to the input. Am I missing something?? Does it just push on? I tried for about 10 minutes to get it connected, and finally gave up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:I could not, for the life of me, get that wifi antenna to connect to the PC. It just would not thread on to the input. Am I missing something?? Does it just push on? I tried for about 10 minutes to get it connected, and finally gave up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I had to buy another one.
Quoted from calvin12:It just screws in.
That's certainly what it looks like, but perhaps there is a slight quality control issue here. That thread was not EVER going on that threaded post. It was too small, I think.
Markmon, where did you find a replacement??
I found at local shop. They're easy to find and cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-TL-WDR3500-Directional/dp/B00DOGRZYG/ref=sr_1_2
Quoted from markmon:I found at local shop. They're easy to find and cheap. amazon.com link »
Ok... Thanks
Damn, I was mounting the P-ROC board and one of the hex posts used to offset/ground the board from the mounting plate fell off, and simply vanished.
Think that 5 out of 6 is enough to keep this board grounded?
I have my kit installed and it worked from the first time I pushed "start" without any issues except for a switch situation that was causing a trough problem that looked like a software problem...but it wasn't.
I have 2 questions of any owners out there including Scott:
1- I have ordered and tried two different "smart strips" and neither one will work. Nope, not operator error...works with other than the computer hooked in. For those who do not know what a smart strip is, it senses when the computer is shut down and turns off other AC lines--- in this case, the amp and the LCD. It does the opposite when you turn the game on. Soooo... for anyone who has a smart strip installed that works, where did you get it and what brand is it?
2- If I run 1.9 or the original game, the helmet lights chase as they should. Once I run the updates - 1.91 or 1.92, the chase lights act funny. What is funny? They light in a different pattern (or no pattern) and random ones will light during ball locks when they should all be doing something else or be off. They in short do not chase properly. I don't think it can be the game because, like I wrote, 1.9 runs them fine as does the original game version (from the computer).
Anyone?
thanks in advance for any help
Brad, Vacaville, CA
Here is first mov of 1.92
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2214.MOV
here is second mov of 1.92
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2215.MOV
both of these show incorrect chasing.
here is fist mov of 1.9
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2216.MOV
and 2nd mov of 1.9
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2217.MOV
Brad
Smart Strip 4941 Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet is what Ihave and it works perfectly.
Hey Brad,
To answer your first question, I am using a Belkin brand power strip without any issues.
This one:
http://www.staples.com/Belkin-Conserve-Smart-AV-8-Outlet-Auto-Off-Surge-Protector/product_911710
The second question, v1.91 and v1.92 are beta versions, and there is different logic driving the helmet lamps. Please report this problem to us by emailing DP support so we can properly log the issue.
Thank you!
--Scott
Quoted from calvin12:My helmet is working perfectly under 1.092 (as it was under the others also.)
Are you guys using LEDs or incandescents for the helmet lamps?
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Dornsife, PA
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