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(Topic ID: 116820)

BOP 2.0 Help Thread


By Joshmx19

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 83 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by 85vett
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 5 years ago

As the BOP 2.0 kits have started to ship I wanted to make a thread where we could help each other out with installation and issues. I'm making it mostly out of necessity because I have already had some issues with mine. I thought rather than bombard the few guys who beta tested the games we could put everything here and and if they chime in to help the common issues will be documented.

#2 5 years ago

So my issue is I cannot get past this screen. It just boots up and goes here. I can use the flippers to choose the game but the start button doesn't do anything. IMG_6688.JPG

#3 5 years ago

in 1.0 mode can you get to the switch test?

#4 5 years ago

Lift the pf, close the switch manually to make sure it's not a switch issue. But if I recall isn't one of the connectors a different size than the block it plugs into. Make sure you were not one pin off.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from calvin12:

Lift the pf, close the switch manually to make sure it's not a switch issue. But if I recall isn't one of the connectors a different size than the block it plugs into. Make sure you were not one pin off.

You nailed it! It was the connector being one off. It works now and I am impressed with it! Thanks!

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

in 1.0 mode can you get to the switch test?

I couldn't get anywhere but now that it is resolved yes you can get to switch test in both modes. You can actually go into test during gameplay in 2.0. I just played a game had to fire the lock coil manually because after multiball the ball was stuck there. Pretty awesome!

#7 5 years ago

Thanks for your help guys, a mistake on my part was the cause but take care when installing the connectors, its hard to see back there!

#8 5 years ago

are you running 1.09, 1.091beta pulses the lock coil on the second ball search (but I have not had a lost bell to test yet) so that should go away.

#9 5 years ago

Yeah I think it shipped with 1.09. That shows they know about it so in the next release it should be good to go.

#11 5 years ago

How did everyone deal with the long machine screws used for the old sub? They look like they will puncture the sub cone if the sub was installed there.

#12 5 years ago

Haven't installed, yet as I'm mid way through a restoration, but I can tell you those screws punch out the bottom very easily. Just tap them on the top with a hammer.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from alveolus:

How did everyone deal with the long machine screws used for the old sub? They look like they will puncture the sub cone if the sub was installed there.

hammer then down from inside the cab to remove. they are the same as pop bumper bracket screw/nails. Place sub, drill new holes and mount the sub with new screws that should be included.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from calvin12:

hammer then down from inside the cab to remove. they are the same as pop bumper bracket screw/nails. Place sub, drill new holes and mount the sub with new screws that should be included.

Ditto

#15 5 years ago

I can't get the display positioned vertically. I've tried the osd settings and nothing works. Any tips?

EDIT: nevermind. SO blinded by the new shiny that I forgot about the built in service buttons. They work great

#16 5 years ago

its it showing up too high up?
if so, there setting there is a screen position setting, change it from 40 to 50.

#17 5 years ago

ok now I'm having the issue switching back to 1.0, it's bother flippers and start right?

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

ok now I'm having the issue switching back to 1.0, it's bother flippers and start right?

Yeah both flippers and start. I had to hold it for a few seconds. I didn't know how to do it till today!

#19 5 years ago

Going back to the original post that I made, I don't think I did have that connector on wrong because my start button issue comes back from time to time as well as a few other switches not registering. That connector that I thought was off by 1 has nothing to do with the start button. I think I need to get some new molex connectors on them. I had one 9 pin connector and enough pins but the wrong crimper (I never had to do a .1" connector yet) so I placed an order from great plains. Hopefully that will take care of it.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

ok now I'm having the issue switching back to 1.0, it's bother flippers and start right?

If you have 1.090 it's both flips and start to get out of 1.0, it takes a second or 2. If you have 1.091 beta, it's just hold start to go out of either. To go from 2.0 to 1.0 it's just hold start in both versions.

#21 5 years ago

Anyone able to snap a pic of the one pin off cable properly plugged in? Running into the same issue and I want to make sure I have it hooked up correctly.

#22 5 years ago

Make sure to plug the in so the pin on right side is on the edge of connector.

image-581.jpg
#23 5 years ago

The connector is keyed. So why is this such a concern with it being off?

#24 5 years ago

I wanted to report a weird issue I had. I had intermittently slings, pops, spinner, and shooter lane stop registering. Mid game, they would work then some would stop working. Pops were not all that responsive.

I tried BOP1 via the emulation and it worked perfectly. Back to BOP2 and it would work intermittently. These are all in column 5 of the switch matrix, the green black wire. I figured it couldnt be a wiring issue since my BOP1 worked perfectly. But I am guessing there was resistance in my wire or something and perhaps pyprocgame pulses the matrix differently than pinmame. In either case, I ended up running a second wire to the backbox from the front slingshot and a wire from front slingshot to rear slingshot. This guarantees everything has good connection. Haven't been able to reproduce it since.

Moral of this story is to not assume the problem is software even if the BOP1 works.

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I wanted to report a weird issue I had. I had intermittently slings, pops, spinner, and shooter lane stop registering. Mid game, they would work then some would stop working. Pops were not all that responsive.
I tried BOP1 via the emulation and it worked perfectly. Back to BOP2 and it would work intermittently. These are all in column 5 of the switch matrix, the green black wire. I figured it couldnt be a wiring issue since my BOP1 worked perfectly. But I am guessing there was resistance in my wire or something and perhaps pyprocgame pulses the matrix differently than pinmame. In either case, I ended up running a second wire to the backbox from the front slingshot and a wire from front slingshot to rear slingshot. This guarantees everything has good connection. Haven't been able to reproduce it since.
Moral of this story is to not assume the problem is software even if the BOP1 works.

I am having some similar issues with switches not registering. I took the P-roc board off to just make sure there wasn't some cold solder but all looked good. Hopefully when I redo my connectors all will be good but who knows.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from Joshmx19:

I am having some similar issues with switches not registering. I took the P-roc board off to just make sure there wasn't some cold solder but all looked good. Hopefully when I redo my connectors all will be good but who knows.

You should make a list of of the switches. Maybe we can see a pattern and make a suggestion. Note that the switch numbers reported by the bop2 software are not rated to the matrix in the bop1 manual for example, switch 38 (col 3 row8) is called switch 71 by bop2. We need the bop1 switch numbers for debugging.

#27 5 years ago

I had an issue with the left inlane and the 100k skill shot.both worked with original hardware. Turns out for both I needed to make the switches active sooner.They would register in 2.0 but not if the ball was bouncing.it wouldn't push the way all the way down long enough.I adjusted both to register when the write was still higher now they work flawlessly. I assume the switches were closing but maybe the computer needs it to close longer or it gets missed

#28 5 years ago

Got my kit, but the big question for me is:

WHERE IS THE INSTALLATION MANUAL?????

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from zsciaeount:

WHERE IS THE INSTALLATION MANUAL?????

ITS RIGHT HERE

http://www.dutchpinball.com/bop2/bop-manual-eu

#30 5 years ago

Although in the US don't switch the fuse (not included anyway) and use the 12 volt wall adapter for the display . The instructions call out a split connector. This is not split any more and goes from the do board to the proc board

#31 5 years ago

Is this the split connector that is not used in the US kits?

Just want to make sure before I start cleaning up the wiring for the kit as I put things together.part.jpg

#32 5 years ago

That is what they call the split connector. it is not longer split, but it still used. The missing split part used to power the display. Now a separate power adapter is used for the display.

#33 5 years ago

Ah, thanks for the heads up. I'll put it in then.

2 weeks later
#34 5 years ago

I could not, for the life of me, get that wifi antenna to connect to the PC. It just would not thread on to the input. Am I missing something?? Does it just push on? I tried for about 10 minutes to get it connected, and finally gave up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

#35 5 years ago

It just screws in.

#36 5 years ago
Quoted from MapleSyrup:

I could not, for the life of me, get that wifi antenna to connect to the PC. It just would not thread on to the input. Am I missing something?? Does it just push on? I tried for about 10 minutes to get it connected, and finally gave up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I had to buy another one.

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from calvin12:

It just screws in.

That's certainly what it looks like, but perhaps there is a slight quality control issue here. That thread was not EVER going on that threaded post. It was too small, I think.

Markmon, where did you find a replacement??

#38 5 years ago

Following this thread.

#39 5 years ago

I found at local shop. They're easy to find and cheap. amazon.com link »

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I found at local shop. They're easy to find and cheap. amazon.com link ยป

Ok... Thanks

#41 5 years ago

1.092 beta is being released now, check the DP forums for info.

2 weeks later
#42 5 years ago

Damn, I was mounting the P-ROC board and one of the hex posts used to offset/ground the board from the mounting plate fell off, and simply vanished.

Think that 5 out of 6 is enough to keep this board grounded?

#43 5 years ago

Should be fine for now, but keep looking!
--Scott

#44 5 years ago

I have my kit installed and it worked from the first time I pushed "start" without any issues except for a switch situation that was causing a trough problem that looked like a software problem...but it wasn't.

I have 2 questions of any owners out there including Scott:

1- I have ordered and tried two different "smart strips" and neither one will work. Nope, not operator error...works with other than the computer hooked in. For those who do not know what a smart strip is, it senses when the computer is shut down and turns off other AC lines--- in this case, the amp and the LCD. It does the opposite when you turn the game on. Soooo... for anyone who has a smart strip installed that works, where did you get it and what brand is it?

2- If I run 1.9 or the original game, the helmet lights chase as they should. Once I run the updates - 1.91 or 1.92, the chase lights act funny. What is funny? They light in a different pattern (or no pattern) and random ones will light during ball locks when they should all be doing something else or be off. They in short do not chase properly. I don't think it can be the game because, like I wrote, 1.9 runs them fine as does the original game version (from the computer).

Anyone?

thanks in advance for any help
Brad, Vacaville, CA

#45 5 years ago

Here is first mov of 1.92
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2214.MOV
here is second mov of 1.92
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2215.MOV
both of these show incorrect chasing.

here is fist mov of 1.9
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2216.MOV
and 2nd mov of 1.9
http://pinagogo.org/storage/IMG_2217.MOV

Brad

#46 5 years ago

The little pc used probably doesn't draw much power. Most smart strips have an adjustment pot for this purpose.

#47 5 years ago

Smart Strip 4941 Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet is what Ihave and it works perfectly.

#48 5 years ago

Hey Brad,
To answer your first question, I am using a Belkin brand power strip without any issues.

This one:
http://www.staples.com/Belkin-Conserve-Smart-AV-8-Outlet-Auto-Off-Surge-Protector/product_911710

The second question, v1.91 and v1.92 are beta versions, and there is different logic driving the helmet lamps. Please report this problem to us by emailing DP support so we can properly log the issue.

Thank you!

--Scott

#49 5 years ago

My helmet is working perfectly under 1.092 (as it was under the others also.)

#50 5 years ago
Quoted from calvin12:

My helmet is working perfectly under 1.092 (as it was under the others also.)

Are you guys using LEDs or incandescents for the helmet lamps?

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