Some coils are driven by under playfield transistors. These use a lamp driver to drive. Since this is an 80b it might have a board with several of the large metal transistors on it. One of those drives the coil and should be tested

There won't be a bad lamp socket for it. The lamp wire goes directly to the big transistor. But the lamp driver transistor could be bad.

What do you mean by Left Ball Shooter? I don't see anything that matches in the manual. Can you take a pic?

It's got to be in the schematic somewhere. Can you trace the wire from the left shooter back to that board. Until be know what they call that on the schematic we won't be able to identify which lamp drives it

Maybe it's this: pasted_image (resized).png

are there lamp numbers on those leds? any clue where to look would help

Someone left this helpful note in my manual
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That lines up with the image I sent earlier that has L12 driving the ball shooter
L12 is driven by Q13
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I'd suspect the the kicker driver board before I'd suspect the new driver board. Those mini drivers do a decent job protecting the driver board. The kicker board is identical to a pop bumper board. I'd try switching it with one of those that is working

If you put in a new board and it still didn't work did it give you any indication it had power? Each of the coils has a fuse are they good?

The 5vdc should always be there for the board logic. The circuit is activated by the lamp driver.

Doesn't this machine have multiple pop bumpers? Try swapping the boards to see if the problem moves

in that scenario he needs to put it into switch mode and see what is reporting. Before you can rule out other problems we need to know if those switches are being triggered by the ball

By resistor I assume you mean transistor. You could have that board disconnected and as long as the ground on the board was connected to ground touching the tab on the transistor would fire the coil. The transistors only provide the path to ground and complete a circuit. Also that test only proves that the coil has power. With the machine on if you ground the tab of the resistor with all of the other wiring connected that proves the wiring between the board and coil is intact. This could be your issue as the wiring goes through the connector and sometimes through an interconnect and all of those have to work for it to work.

That is generalized instructions for testing a coil. I need to see if it works this way with the little driver boards.

But to identify breaks in wires the continuity mode on your DMM can do that for you

I don't see how it proves you have 5v there because grounding the transistor just proves you have power to the coil.

Do I remember that it didn't work with a new pop driver board? If so this doesn't prove that your old board is good but likely proves that you have a wiring issue.

So there isn't alot going on here: the switch on the pop bumper goes to the board make sure you continuity and the switch is closing good. Dirty switches are a problem on gottliebs. You need 5v and ground to the board. Test with multimeter. Then you have a wire from the coil to the board. We know this is good because of the test. Then we have a ground from the board to coil ground. Check continuity on this to the bottom metal board.

Screenshot_20220410-090353 (resized).png

the wire is not dropping your 5V to 3. You need to find out what is dragging it down. Can you verify you have the same 3V at the pop board? If you do then you know there is nothing wrong with the 5V wire. A1J6 is the switch connector and it is also in the corrosion zone. Since it's a new MPU the enge connector is good but how is the crimp? A corroded crimp will add resistance and that can drop your voltage. I'd test again with A1J6 disconnected. If you get 5V then take a good look at that crimp. The connector should be very hard to remove

yes you can. If it works you know the problem and can fix it permanently