(Topic ID: 174074)
Linked Games
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978-
Eight Ball
Bally, 1977
-
King Rock
Gottlieb, 1972
Topic Gallery
Québec, QC
With the 2 PFs, I have a decent set of uncracked plastics. A tad yellowed, but then I didn't go full white for the PF either so I don't mind it.
I did want to try the peroxyde + UV light technique I read about in some other thread, and we have a UV light at work so I brought that piece, let it sit for 3 days, and I don't see the results.
Now, I'm not a big instruction reader so I skimmed through the couple of posts and didn't properly read the whole thing so I guess my 3% hydrogen peroxyde wasn't the right stuff, or the UV light is wrong...
If I get a minute to read through this stuff maybe I'll give it another shot, but I'm expecting some books for Christmas tomorrow so I probably won't feel like reading it 
Before:
IMG_20161221_073453 (resized).jpg
During:
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After:
Carneys Point Township, NJ
I remember reading that thread. I think the peroxide was much stronger, something you need to get from a beauty supply store, I know you are sticking to a budget on this but I think CPR made plastics for BOPP.
You could use protectors on the rails like the one on the shooter lane where the ball comes out. All my Ballys have wear by the outlanes on the rails.I think there is a guy on pinside who sells these..............
Quoted from Lovef2k:I remember reading that thread. I think the peroxide was much stronger, something you need to get from a beauty supply store, I know you are sticking to a budget on this but I think CPR made plastics for BOPP.
Oh, makes sense... I just read "off the shelf", so I thought off the pharmacy shelf, not off the beauty supply store shelf... I'll probably wait till then end to put the plastics so I don't damage them so I'll probably get around to retrying with the right stuff.
Probably not all that necessary though, as I'm not going for full white everything.
You can see the bottom corner is what the whites looked like before the resto, and if you compare to the post, which is full white, you'll see the antique middle ground I went for.
Here's a mockup with the plastic, looks pretty good IMO.
Yes, I do know about the CPR set, but it's not just a budget thing, it's also that I'm trying to challenge myself to salvage as much as possible. I figure the more I use the hard route, the more I learn.
I already fixed up some bent TFTC plastics by putting them in hot water and did some flame polishing on those and some FT ones so I'm getting pretty confident I can have good results.
Also, I have some plastics from a guy who sold me a coin door skin who had also installed a CPR set, plus the 2 PFs I have, so my original plastic set is the best of the 3 sets put together, so it's really decent.
For those rails I personally would brush on a couple coats of polycrylic. Easy enough to scuff them up and spray 2pac next summer.
Seems more and more like this is turning into a full-on restoration! 
Philgreg - Just a heads up with an issue I had with new drop targets - the ones I got would not make up the switches on the bottom of the assembly. Looking closely, the problem was the bottom was not flat all the way across. There was a raised area for hitting the switch, but it would not line up with the switch. So instead of buying new drop targets or switch leaves, I used a hot glue gun to put a drop of glue onto the recessed portion to the level of the raised area. My switches now make, and I don't think I have to worry about the glue falling off of the bottom of the target. Maybe your source's drop targets have a different shaped bottom, so this may not be an issue for you.
Regardless, you're restoration looks great.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll check on that!
As for the rails I think I'll just leave them aside for a while and see if they're holding me up and take a decision then. The slight wear on the originals has been caused by thousands of plays, and the PF was destroyed besides that so I'm thinking that just giving them some nice thick coats of paint and cleaning them once in a while might do the trick, and maybe I'll just stick a mylar rectangle at the contact point.
We'll see...
Messed up my Marco's order on the pop bumper skirts. They were way too white anyway and they'd clash with the rest.
Now I have one perfect skirt and two that are slightly broken on only one side. Since once side will be hidden by the plastics anyway, I decided I didn't want to wait for another order and just clean these and use them anyway.
Before:
IMG_9168 (resized).JPG
During*:
IMG_9169 (resized).JPG
*Being a cheapskate also means getting a lot of mileage out of the cleaning solution...
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Coming along nicely....no alcohol left in the tumbler? Must be working hard
Quoted from PhilGreg:Another sorta before / after shot, since the pre-restore PF was probably even worse off than this donor...
You'll notice the ball saver thing is cracked, but I have a new one on order... can't salvage everything...
is the original ball saver top orange or red, I had a BOPP a long time ago and I remember that I could only find orange ones from the suppliers? I was just going through my parts hoard and just found 5 NOS red ball saver tops that I bought in a parts lot from a guy in Greece. I thought they were flasher toppers until I looked at them closer.
If only I could see it in person... Quoted from PhilGreg:Here's a pic from IPDB. Looks like it's red. Makes sense with the red of the PF too, so that's what I'll go with. I did find a red one at Marco's, but I remember when I checked last year I couldn't find one, maybe they restocked them, or maybe I didn't look hard enough.
I thought it was red as well, I looked at the same pics last night. Did Marco actually send a red one?
Quoted from Lovef2k:I thought it was red as well, I looked at the same pics last night. Did Marco actually send a red one?
Sure did!
Quoted from beelzeboob:Beautiful work! If only I could see it in person...
Don't worry, as any good pinhead should, I like to talk visitor's ear off and showcase all my pinball related work to anyone who should walk in the basement.
Alright, time to transfer the harness.
I'm hand cleaning the switches and dumping the screws in the rust remover bath.
I'm not cleaning every single one at once, I'll take care of the rest once the first batch is done not to get mixed up.
IMG_9223 (resized).JPG
IMG_9224 (resized).JPG
IMG_9225 (resized).JPG
IMG_9226 (resized).JPG
Still in work.
Quoted from PhilGreg:Sure did!
Nice to know, thanks...
Alright!
Finally done with the harness transfer... man that's a lot of work.
I haven't tested anything, I'm confident 95% of stuff is rewired right - I'm sure I'll blow a fuse or transistor or a couple lights won't light up. Maybe I could look through the schematics to see how much voltage each wire is supposed to get and try to test everything with my computer power supply, maybe not... we shall see.
In the meantime, here's a little reminder of what the back of the donor playfield looked like.
IMG_8965 (resized).JPGIMG_8964 (resized).JPGIMG_8962 (resized).JPGIMG_8960 (resized).JPGIMG_8959 (resized).JPGIMG_8958 (resized).JPGIMG_8957 (resized).JPGIMG_8973 (resized).JPGIMG_8970 (resized).JPGIMG_8967 (resized).JPG
And here's what we got now:
IMG_9261 (resized).JPGIMG_9260 (resized).JPGIMG_9259 (resized).JPGIMG_9265 (resized).JPGIMG_9262 (resized).JPGIMG_9263 (resized).JPGIMG_9264 (resized).JPG
Quoted from Billc479:Philgreg - Just a heads up with an issue I had with new drop targets - the ones I got would not make up the switches on the bottom of the assembly. Looking closely, the problem was the bottom was not flat all the way across. There was a raised area for hitting the switch, but it would not line up with the switch. So instead of buying new drop targets or switch leaves, I used a hot glue gun to put a drop of glue onto the recessed portion to the level of the raised area. My switches now make, and I don't think I have to worry about the glue falling off of the bottom of the target. Maybe your source's drop targets have a different shaped bottom, so this may not be an issue for you.
Regardless, you're restoration looks great.
I had the same issue it turns out.
I just cut pieces of tie wrap and stuck them to the bottom with Crazy Glue of the drop targets to even out the bottom.
Didn't bother to try and make the width perfect, a switch goes over them anyway and it's a minor detail good enough for what I'm doing.
One time after doing a EBD swap, I powered on the game and one of the memory coils locked on and fried. The game was working fine before the swap, the problem was a shorted transistor on the driver board. So you never what will happen while a game has been apart for a long time. Now I remove the playfield solenoid coil when powering up a game for the first time after a swap. Once the game goes into attract mode and all the lamps light, I will add the fuse back in and check for any locked coils. If you have a 6 volt power supply, you can test the GI circuits without having the game powered up or check for shorts with an ohm meter before powering up.
Quoted from Lovef2k:One time after doing a EBD swap, I powered on the game and one of the memory coils locked on and fried. The game was working fine before the swap, the problem was a shorted transistor on the driver board. So you never what will happen while a game has been apart for a long time. Now I remove the playfield solenoid coil when powering up a game for the first time after a swap. Once the game goes into attract mode and all the lamps light, I will add the fuse back in and check for any locked coils. If you have a 6 volt power supply, you can test the GI circuits without having the game powered up or check for shorts with an ohm meter before powering up.
I assume you mean "playfield solenoid fuse" and not "playfield solenoid coil". Thanks for the tip, I'll do that.
Quoted from PhilGreg:I assume you mean "playfield solenoid fuse" and not "playfield solenoid coil". Thanks for the tip, I'll do that.
Yes, fuse
Looks beautiful. Did you have to do any work on the chime unit? That was my favorite part of BOPP when I had one.
Quoted from beelzeboob:You have less than three weeks to finish.
At the pace I'm going I think I can realistically expect to be done by Christmas. 
Quoted from Lovef2k:Looks beautiful. Did you have to do any work on the chime unit? That was my favorite part of BOPP when I had one.
ooof! That answers my question. It may be a little late for this, maybe you figured this out already on the flipper base plates. They are reversible on Bally games so they can be used on left and right side without needing 2 different parts. This info is also for others that may read this. If your coil stop holes are stripped, most are. You can flip the plates to the opposite sides, left to right and vice versa. Then you will have a new set of holes to mount everything. the holes are not threaded but that's not a problem because the original screws are self tapping. All you have to do is start the screw and thread them in, the screw will make the new threads. You must use 8-32 self tapping screws if the originals are gone. Usually the bushings and coil brackets still have the original black screws, sometimes phillips head and sometime 1/4 hex heads.
Quoted from Lovef2k:ooof! That answers my question. It may be a little late for this, maybe you figured this out already on the flipper base plates. They are reversible on Bally games so they can be used on left and right side without needing 2 different parts. This info is also for others that may read this. If your coil stop holes are stripped, most are. You can flip the plates to the opposite sides, left to right and vice versa. Then you will have a new set of holes to mount everything. the holes are not threaded but that's not a problem because the original screws are self tapping. All you have to do is start the screw and thread them in, the screw will make the new threads. You must use 8-32 self tapping screws if the originals are gone. Usually the bushings and coil brackets still have the original black screws, sometimes phillips head and sometime 1/4 hex heads.
Thanks for the tips,
I didn't have issues with that but good to know.
Ok, I've been putting off the wood rails, but I think that's where I'm at now...
I think I'll paint them and clear them with a water based poly and maybe put a piece of mylar at the outlanes.
I flame polished the plastics.
The only issue I'm having is that the drop targets are catching on the rubber behind and don't drop unobstructed. I'll have to see if the drop target banks can somehow be moved forward a millimeter or so...
The next sized smaller rubber behind the drops might help w/hangups. I had did a little filing on the backside of the targets too. They originally were the flat ones w/no "hood". Both types will work.
Quoted from pinkid:The next sized smaller rubber behind the drops might help w/hangups. I had did a little filing on the backside of the targets too. They originally were the flat ones w/no "hood". Both types will work.
Yeah I thought the rubber was a little loose... I didn't have to stretch it much, I think that's what I'll do...
Alright so I made my color mixes for the red and blue of the cab, but now I painted one rail and find that the color is much more "orangy" than my playfield and plastics are.
I guess I'll have to go back and try to get the paint darkened a bit.
I'm also working on some other projects in parallel so it might be a while before the next update comes in...
Quoted from beelzeboob:Looking forward to playing it in two weeks! If it's not done, I'm staying home.
I'll try to prop something up JPOP style with my kid in the cabinet pulling the pop bumpers or something...
So I turns out I did have some time this weekend, as my other projects are on hold as well (mainly building a pallet coffe table with bar top epoxy and some other stuff), and I went and got the paint color fixed a bit.
Not a perfect match, but close enough to my liking, so I'll proceed with painting these wood rails, sanding them smooth and coating them with poly, probably.
1 week later
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