I’m in the club too. Just not fully assembled. The glass is on the wall reminding me of my projects to come.

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I am in the club also. Mine has clear coated playfield.

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Blackhawks area

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I restored one several years back and still have it today. All Altek boards, NOS Kruzman cleared playfield. The backglass is near perfect and I left the decal on it that was put on by a distributor in Canada. Just thought the decal was neat looking so I left it.

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Those are some beauties right there.

I am in the club. Can you tell??

It is literally the one game I will never sell because its the game I play with my 22 year old daughter. she doesn't like the fast Sterns. its her speed.

Mine plays perfectly but shows its age on the playfield and cabinet. Sometimes I fantasize about a restoration but I wonder if that would be a sacrilege.

ooh....maybe I send it to HEP!

General thoughts:
1. Yes, Orr is and always will be a Bruin. but this is a snapshot in time. Get over it. I love that uniqueness
2. simply a fantastic drop target game. Love going after that extra ball with the 3 set of drops down
3. the puck between the flippers. Great feature. enables you to slow the game down. Extra safety. and it helps because sometimes this game punishes you with a 9 second ball time.
4. As a Canadian, I love the "Canadiana" all over the game.
5. Orr taped his stick with one strip of tape. Game shows no tape.
6. Youre correct on the righty/lefty pick-up
7. Pick up the "Best of Bobby Orr" DVD. the gap between his abilities and the other players was greater than any player I have ever seen. (with all respect to Gretzky and Lemieux)

Fun fact: I acquired my machine when I was negotiating to purchase an Addams family over 10 years ago. I offered to pay his asking price for the Addams, if he would throw in the Power Play as well. Great score!

Looking to join the club. Anyone got one for sale in Illinois? Thanks

I am a big Bobby Orr fan, but it annoys me every time I see him shooting right handed and his stick without his signature tape job. How no one notices these things during design and production drives me crazy.

He will always be a Bruin, but I may have gotten over the fact he was in a Blackhawk uniform.

Don't have one yet for these reasons, but maybe in the future.

You CAN get over it , Sleepy. Great game. The art by Dave Christensen is otherwise quite good. goalie is a little weird.

I was born at Joseph Brant.

Trivia: Did he tape his ankles like on the backglass?

We’re hockey fans over here too. Definitely a favorite when my kid’s hockey teammates are over at the house.

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I'm pretty sure he taped them very similar.

I might get over it, but I already have four Ballys in my basement with room for only a total of ten games with everything else down there.

You may have convinced me on this game, so I will keep my eyes open for a nice Bobby Orr, but I am in no rush.

I wasn't born in Burlington and have only been here seven years. I was just at the Joseph Brant museum a few weeks ago for a pinball tournament, which is beside the hospital.

I want to add that Olympic Hockey machine to my collection. I can never find one though.

I am in the club as well. The pictures don't do the game justice, but it is fully chromed, touched up and cleared playfield, and custom art on the cleared cabinet (9 colors) to create the Blackhawk's original logo.

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A photo of my shrine to Robert Orr.

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Do you typically play with the Conservative or Liberal dip switch settings? I'm getting my game set-up, and tend to like the look of Liberal settings, except for maybe the pop bumpers. Curious how others like to play.

POP BUMPER ADJUST - Each of the three pop bumpers score 1000 when lit and 100 when not lit. When set as Liberal, all three pop bumpers will be lit. When set as Conservative, lit pop bumpers will alternate between the bottom pop bumper and the left & right pop bumpers.

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/pp_dips.htm

cam someone post a pic of the flipper coil wiring. and a nice close up of the leaf switches eos. i forgot to take pics.

thx thc

awesome thx

those look like brand new eos leaf switches ..u wouldn't happen to know the part number on that?
thx thc

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A365-00046-0000

I had to rebuild them using both the old and the new spacers to allow them to fit because they were too fat and the old screws that hold them on weren’t long enough

I'm in. I've had it for about 10 years. Found a NOS glass a couple of years ago, installed a CPR playfield, painted cabinet and had it chromed out.

If anyone has a nice set of custom score cards that they could send me a scan of, I would appreciate.
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You make a good point about the drop target banks. I'll give that a try. Also agree about the alternating 1,000 point lights. The fact that the pops state "1000 points when lit" implies that it shouldn't be lit all of the time...

Nice looking machine! Never seen anyone swap out the traditional white/red pop cap for white/green

Something to consider on your coin door, put another price plate on the left side and then in the middle put the BALLY logo one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-826-BALLY

Looks a lot better then the blank steel plate imo.

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I just started a playfield swap on my Power Play.... It's been a long time coming lol. I scanned my NOS playfield back in 2008. Artwork was done in 2011 and sent to CPR to use for the repro playfields. Not sure when I received my playfield but I'm guessing about 2014. With some enforced downtime I figured I better do it now before it's too late

I've only noticed two errors in there playfield art so far...

Any tips or issues I should be aware of while doing the swap?

Curious as to what errors you found? When I did mine I had a NOS so never seen a CPR one.
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I found doing the swap fairly easy, just take your time. One recommendation would be to use all new ground braid and light sockets.
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If you want to go nuts you can have all the stickers for the assemblies added back on. Just go to http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ and you can download them, send them to a local print shop (i.e. FedEx Office) or print them yourself onto a decal sheet. Just depends on how anal you want to get.

I'm color blind and never noticed it. Thanks for the suggestion.

meSz Thanks for the tips. With the current lockdown getting lamps sockets and other parts from the US may be a problem so I will re-use the existing braid and replace individual sockets. I may design my own lamp PCB to replace them completely.

I'll pass on the assembly decals as I think I know what the parts are. I don't worry too much about the under playfield experience

****SPOILER ALERT*****
CPR playfield is missing the yellow in the blue feather (it was on the art submitted but may have been on a separate layer that was turned off maybe). Also the white is missing around the lower lane guide slots.

Yeah not sure how this is effecting shipping to Canada but I can tell ya I have ordered from Marco and PBR in the past week and received immediately. I've found in swapping the existing ground braid you'll get some of the strands that will break so just found it better to replace.

This is understood as most people are the same. This machine was something I knew I wouldn't sell so I went all out on it. Replacing basically everything with new parts, down to the screws and other hardware (used all stainless steel). I call it my "went stupid restoration".

I do see in Tyamry photo above (post #28) where the yellow is missing in the feather. Wonder what happened here as when I look at CPR's website the yellow is in the feather...https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/bopp/#playfield

As for the white missing around the lower lane guide, I am not seeing this in Tyamry's photo. I may just be missing it?!!

Looks like CPR must have fixed the yellow feather in subsequent production runs; my playfield was from the initial run.

Here's a pic of the original playfield with white around the rollovers; the repro is missing the white and is just bare wood.

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I see now looking at a picture of my pf it does have the white. I'd say though that them missing the white might be for the better as once it starts to wear it would be that much more noticeable.

Also appears the white text-shadow in ADV BONUS and DOWN POST is missing

I can't imagine recreating the artwork for these things. The time it takes and all! If I were doing it I would lose interest, be drinking beer, watching hockey (remember when hockey was on TV?) and you would wind up with a Cowboy face instead of the Indian on the playfield. In short, I can see how things like this are missed. Whether it was the artist or even the person cutting out the screens.

IIRC when David Eisner was redrawing the art we decided that the white shadow around the text was due to misalignment on the original screens as it didn't seem consistent among pictures and samples we had at the time. Let's call it "artistic impression" rather than an error

You're the one that started the whole "what errors are there" so I want credit for the shadow text damn it!

All credit to you meSz At least there's no text or scores missing (that I know of!)

Here's a video I made of my BOPP restoration:

Thread is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bobby-orrs-power-play-from-scrapper-to-power-player

After:
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Before:
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Playfield after:
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Playfield before:
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thx so much for the tip, finally got them in. i just got new screw from hardware store what a pain to find #5-40 1 inch long. only down side was i could not get the retainer clip in with it, but will do for now.

Pictures of my CPR from the last run. Yellow feather, check. White in drain/save lanes, nope.

Shawn

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Honestly I think the white not being there looks better. The white shadow on the originals looks off. The yellow in the feather IMO is an ordeal so good to see that this was corrected!

Agreed. I also like the white shadow on the "down post" and other places not being there. Looks cleaner IMHO. May have been a registration problem on one of the original runs.

Picked up a non functioning Power play...AND IT'S KINDA ROUGH!
Anyone in the CHICAGO/NW SUBURBS area own one of these willing to help me with general advice/question$...?
or could recommend a repair company although willing to give it a shot(!) myself...thanks

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Randy

This forum is here to help.

Use Pinwiki to start, I see you have several machines, so you should have some knowledge to begin with.

You start with the basics - remove old battery, repair boards and connectors, then start with cosmetics. It will be a fun project.

It'll be fun! I would start at the power supply. It will likely need to be fixed up or replaced.