upload the video to youtube then post the link.

try turning it on wait till its boots up then open the coin door. There should be a little red button on the back side of the coin door thats the test button. push it to run though the test 1 lamps will flash lamps 2 will do the displays 3 will fire the coils 4 will be the sound test and 5 will be your switch test when you get to that point you should have 00 flashing in the match part of your display. Now push the start button and the switch number should come up on all four of the players displays. That would be a starting point.

Did you try simply dropping coins in there? There's no free play setting on those machines unless it's been modified, maybe you're just out of credits.

Are you sure the game has credits on it? There's a window to the left of the ball in play number that needs to read at least 1. If you see two zeros (00), there are no credits and the game won't start. You can drop a coin in or manually depress the coin trip lever on the coin mechanism. He's a pic of a Bally pin with two credits on it, ready to start a game...

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Heather your video is set to private, so we can't view it.

Check the two tilt mechanisms. If either are off (I'm thinking the ball on the track), the start button won't work.

Make sure the two plugs on the right side of the MPU computer board is plugged in correctly.

I think there a plug near the coin door as well. Make sure that didnt get pulled off. Make sure you have the ground braid attached at the head where it goes down into the cabinet too.

Lift the playfield. The plum bob is on the left side... looks like a pendulum hanging on a wire in a circle. Make sure it's not touching the outside. The ball/track is on the left side against the cabinet. Make sure the ball is all of the way forward.

You might want to verify that the start button switch is actually closing when the button is pressed, and that the contacts are clean...although it sounds more like a switch wiring or matrix issue given that the test button won't get you into test mode. The plumb bob is off of the rod...but make sure the rod isn't touching the surrounding metal ring. The roll tilt ball is missing...not unusual...still check the switch portion in the channel that the ball would touch for shorts, etc.

I hope he's doing better. So on the ball roll tilt, the ball acts as the switch, making electrical contact between the channel that it rolls in and the little metal tab at the end of the channel. If someone lifts the machine, the ball rolls to the end and closes the switch causing a tilt. Make sure the tab isn't touching the channel. There are also slam tilt switches on the coin door and often under the playfield. They usually have a small weight at the end of the switch leaf...one of those could be out of adjustment. Also, make sure that the coin trip wires are not stuck in the down position...they should spring back up after a quarter goes through. These are just a few of many possibilities. It could be a broken wire, bad switch capacitor, cold solder joint at a header connection...lots of things. I always check the easy things first. Best of luck.

Your above pictures show one of the main tilt mechanisms. The "metal piece" you found would have been hanging from a wire through a metal "circle" below the "channel". Imagine if you jolted the machine hard enough to make the "metal thing" touch the metal circle. That causes the machine to "tilt." In addition there would have been a little ball laying in the channel. Imagine if someone picked up the front of the machine high enough for the ball to roll to the other end causing a "tilt." (This happened all the time in bars--that's why pinball machines have "tilts".) At any rate, the absence of these parts should not cause the game to start a new game--UNLESS one of the switches (like the one at the far end of the "channel") that tells the game there is a tilt is stuck closed or shorted. I know this is alot, but I felt you needed to understand these basics as you proceed.

I agree you have a connector issue. Either something is shifted a pin or you swapped a couple of connectors. They shuold be keyed so that you can't put the wrong connector on the wrong header, but maybe the key plugs have been removed. The goofed up displays are a pretty big indicator here. Again, these are the two connectors on the right edge of the MPU.

My opinion? Simply connector issues. I rebuild all connectors in the back box except for the light board...unless it obviously needs it. Simple thing, but unplug and reseat all the connectors on the MPU and the Solenoid driver board. If things change, it is simply a demonstration that the plugs/pins are corroded.

You check the fuses to see if they were good?

Well several ways, one way is to look at the fuse and see if you can see a break in the filament. A visual inspection is not always the best way as a fuse can appear to be good when in fact it's not. You can get a multi-meter or even go to a local auto parts store or Home Depot/Lowes and get a fuse tester like ebay.com link: Cooper Bussmann Fuse tester and puller BP FT 3 RP

I would just look at the fuses first to see if there are any that appear to be damaged! Just look in the back cabinet on the right side you will see the fuses (see picture below).

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