(Topic ID: 272700)

Bobby Orr Coin Door/Mech Wiring


By Geeter83

6 months ago



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  • 18 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Geeter83
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#1 6 months ago

Hello - After 5 years of sitting, my son and I are finally embarking on restoring a Bobby Orr Power Play machine. We've replaced the easy stuff so far, rubbers, fuses, SDB, but have now moved on to the coin door. Overall, the machine is still in pretty good shape, but the wiring is a mess. Someone had some fun over the years and eventually either gave up on the restoration or resorted to wire snipping out of frustration, haha.

There are several areas in the game where the wiring colors don't match due to replacement over the years and one area is the coin door. I could use some help interpreting the wires coming off the coin mech and door and trying to marry them up to produce valid switch inputs. For reference, Coin 1 works as is. Coin 2 does not and the game credit/start game does not as well. Attached are pictures of the wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated to help my son and I get back on track!

Thanks,
Justin

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#3 6 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Sometimes it's easier to simply replace a hacked up harness with a new one such as this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00510-bally-s-s-coin-door-wiring-harness

Thank you Ken for the response and link! I don't have an extensive electrical background, but agree this might be the best option. Do you know if this harness comes with any instructions? Other than soldering a new power cord on the machine, I haven't yet done any major re-wiring. I'm assuming I'd just want to map the wires from the pins to the specific switches per the game's schematic? That sounds easy, but those schematic documents hurt my eyes a little!

#7 6 months ago

Thanks all for the replies, your time is much appreciated! It seems I have several items to try when we work on the machine tonight! I'll provide an update later.

Justin

1 week later
#8 6 months ago

Hi Al! Thanks for your post and schematic. I was able to get the full schematic and have a few questions I'm hoping you could help with:
- What does the 'CR' mean in the schematic that has CR1/CR4/CR12?
- Assuming the wire color code is associated with the number trailing the alpha character(s)? ST1(red) or I5(White). What does the 'ST', 'I' stand for?
- For areas that have no switch associated in the schematic (I3, I6, I4) are those just reserved for other Bally machines (not used on BOPP)
- What is the asterisk '*' for in the schematic?
- How do I interpret the pin # in the connector to the schematic. A2J2-2 is Pin #1, but I'm struggling to understand which one is Pin #1 in the connector.

Hopefully this makes sense. Thanks again for you time!
Justin

#9 6 months ago

Also - I have 3 wires coming off both coin 1 and coin 3 (no middle coin on door, just wires inside). The schematic looks like only 2 wires should be present, am I looking at that correctly? (Red wire and Trace wire, not sure what that is)

Thanks!

#11 6 months ago

Thanks Quench for the thorough response! It's helped my ability to debug my machine GREATLY!! It also highlights all the wire mismatch and repairs my machine has experienced over the years.

2 weeks later
#12 5 months ago

Hey all - Quick update -> Thanks to all the tips and information from this thread, I'm now much closer to a fully working BOPP machine, which is great!

I've identified and tested a burnt coil/solenoid for the bottom bumper, which I removed last night. Could someone help me understand why I have 2 yellow wires attached to one of the lugs on the coil? Based on the diagram, it should be yellow wire which provides voltage and the orange/brown wire which...not sure.

Are there 2 yellow wires because the voltage is somewhat "daisy chained" across all solenoids on the +43 VDC line? Either way, I'm guessing I want to install the new coil the same way the old was installed, I'm just a little worried to perpetuate the same installs as there were definitely a few interesting hacks inside the machine (think lamp cord or some other cord soldered in place to "jump" several coils)

Thanks again!
Justin

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#14 5 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes exactly, the yellow wires daisy chain the 43VDC from one solenoid to another. So all coils except the last in the chain will have two yellow wires.
The yellow wires *must* be soldered on the coil lug that has the banded side of the diode connected to it.

Thanks Quench!

#16 5 months ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

A factory tip. Never wrap the wire around the hole in the lug when you solder it. It creates a stress point that leads to the wire breaking off. Always put a small dab of solder on the lug and wire and 'tack' solder the wire to the lug. It makes for a more reliable connection.

Thanks BigAl56! This tip is contrary to what I've seen in a lot of videos, but I'll be sure to not wrap them through the lug, especially since the wiring in this game is over 40 years old and brittle to begin with

#18 5 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

I've always done it the way BigAl56 described because I hate wrestling with looped in lug wires when trying to unsolder them.

In my experience, you never argue with someone named Big Al! Cheers all! Marking this thread resolved and will move to a new topic when I encounter my next challenge!

Justin

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