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(Topic ID: 272700)

Bobby Orr Coin Door/Mech Wiring


By Geeter83

77 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 51 days ago by Geeter83
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#1 77 days ago

Hello - After 5 years of sitting, my son and I are finally embarking on restoring a Bobby Orr Power Play machine. We've replaced the easy stuff so far, rubbers, fuses, SDB, but have now moved on to the coin door. Overall, the machine is still in pretty good shape, but the wiring is a mess. Someone had some fun over the years and eventually either gave up on the restoration or resorted to wire snipping out of frustration, haha.

There are several areas in the game where the wiring colors don't match due to replacement over the years and one area is the coin door. I could use some help interpreting the wires coming off the coin mech and door and trying to marry them up to produce valid switch inputs. For reference, Coin 1 works as is. Coin 2 does not and the game credit/start game does not as well. Attached are pictures of the wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated to help my son and I get back on track!

Thanks,
Justin

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#2 77 days ago

Sometimes it's easier to simply replace a hacked up harness with a new one such as this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00510-bally-s-s-coin-door-wiring-harness

#3 77 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Sometimes it's easier to simply replace a hacked up harness with a new one such as this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00510-bally-s-s-coin-door-wiring-harness

Thank you Ken for the response and link! I don't have an extensive electrical background, but agree this might be the best option. Do you know if this harness comes with any instructions? Other than soldering a new power cord on the machine, I haven't yet done any major re-wiring. I'm assuming I'd just want to map the wires from the pins to the specific switches per the game's schematic? That sounds easy, but those schematic documents hurt my eyes a little!

#4 77 days ago

Have you downloaded the schematics? I'm adding a couple of pics from the front door schematic. The cabinet schematic shows the front door wiring.
Cross reference the wire colors against the key.
For example, the brown white wire you are showing is a 65 wire and that is for the #1 coin chute, closest to the hinge.

You can find the schematics here: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1858/Bally_1978_Power_Play_Schematics_paginated.pdf

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#5 77 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Sometimes it's easier to simply replace a hacked up harness with a new one such as this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00510-bally-s-s-coin-door-wiring-harness

I'm not sure it needs a whole harness: Looks like the connector was just taken off (probably to be salvaged for use somewhere else). Is the other end of the connector still there in the cabinet (left-side by the tilt-mechanism)?

#6 77 days ago

You could ask the seller if he includes instructions. I believe the wires are already cut to length and zip tied much the same as the original harness. So it should basically "lay" right into place.

#7 77 days ago

Thanks all for the replies, your time is much appreciated! It seems I have several items to try when we work on the machine tonight! I'll provide an update later.

Justin

1 week later
#8 70 days ago

Hi Al! Thanks for your post and schematic. I was able to get the full schematic and have a few questions I'm hoping you could help with:
- What does the 'CR' mean in the schematic that has CR1/CR4/CR12?
- Assuming the wire color code is associated with the number trailing the alpha character(s)? ST1(red) or I5(White). What does the 'ST', 'I' stand for?
- For areas that have no switch associated in the schematic (I3, I6, I4) are those just reserved for other Bally machines (not used on BOPP)
- What is the asterisk '*' for in the schematic?
- How do I interpret the pin # in the connector to the schematic. A2J2-2 is Pin #1, but I'm struggling to understand which one is Pin #1 in the connector.

Hopefully this makes sense. Thanks again for you time!
Justin

#9 70 days ago

Also - I have 3 wires coming off both coin 1 and coin 3 (no middle coin on door, just wires inside). The schematic looks like only 2 wires should be present, am I looking at that correctly? (Red wire and Trace wire, not sure what that is)

Thanks!

#10 69 days ago
Quoted from Geeter83:

What does the 'CR' mean in the schematic that has CR1/CR4/CR12?

'CR' is Ballys way of refering to diodes (in your case the little black things you see soldered on the switch lugs). Diodes have a colored band on one end indicating orientation and should not be connected in reverse.

Diodes.png

Quoted from Geeter83:

- Assuming the wire color code is associated with the number trailing the alpha character(s)? ST1(red) or I5(White). What does the 'ST', 'I' stand for?

The switches in these games are wired in a matrix (whole other subject) essentially it's a way to reduce the number of wires required for the large number of switches. The 'ST' refers to switch signals that are "Strobes", the 'I' refers to signals that are switch returns.

Quoted from Geeter83:

- For areas that have no switch associated in the schematic (I3, I6, I4) are those just reserved for other Bally machines (not used on BOPP)

Some of those blank switches are in the cabinet and shown on the cabinet switch harness - look for the "ST" and "I" switch wires. The remainder blanks simply aren't assigned in this game.

Quoted from Geeter83:

What is the asterisk '*' for in the schematic?

The asterisk refers to a Bally test point.

Quoted from Geeter83:

How do I interpret the pin # in the connector to the schematic. A2J2-2 is Pin #1, but I'm struggling to understand which one is Pin #1 in the connector.

A2J2-2 ---> 'A2' refers to the power rectifier board, 'J2' refers to connector J2, '-2' refers to pin #2.

The below diagram is the total Power Play switch matrix.
Cabinet switches/connections have been added and are shown in red
Switch test mode numbers are shown in blue
Switches with capacitors are shown with an orange box
Wire color definition examples are shown at the bottom

PowerPlay_SwitchMatrix.jpg

#11 67 days ago

Thanks Quench for the thorough response! It's helped my ability to debug my machine GREATLY!! It also highlights all the wire mismatch and repairs my machine has experienced over the years.

2 weeks later
#12 52 days ago

Hey all - Quick update -> Thanks to all the tips and information from this thread, I'm now much closer to a fully working BOPP machine, which is great!

I've identified and tested a burnt coil/solenoid for the bottom bumper, which I removed last night. Could someone help me understand why I have 2 yellow wires attached to one of the lugs on the coil? Based on the diagram, it should be yellow wire which provides voltage and the orange/brown wire which...not sure.

Are there 2 yellow wires because the voltage is somewhat "daisy chained" across all solenoids on the +43 VDC line? Either way, I'm guessing I want to install the new coil the same way the old was installed, I'm just a little worried to perpetuate the same installs as there were definitely a few interesting hacks inside the machine (think lamp cord or some other cord soldered in place to "jump" several coils)

Thanks again!
Justin

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#13 52 days ago
Quoted from Geeter83:

Are there 2 yellow wires because the voltage is somewhat "daisy chained" across all solenoids on the +43 VDC line?

Yes exactly, the yellow wires daisy chain the 43VDC from one solenoid to another. So all coils except the last in the chain will have two yellow wires.

The yellow wires *must* be soldered on the coil lug that has the banded side of the diode connected to it.

#14 51 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes exactly, the yellow wires daisy chain the 43VDC from one solenoid to another. So all coils except the last in the chain will have two yellow wires.
The yellow wires *must* be soldered on the coil lug that has the banded side of the diode connected to it.

Thanks Quench!

#15 51 days ago

A factory tip. Never wrap the wire around the hole in the lug when you solder it. It creates a stress point that leads to the wire breaking off. Always put a small dab of solder on the lug and wire and 'tack' solder the wire to the lug. It makes for a more reliable connection.

#16 51 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

A factory tip. Never wrap the wire around the hole in the lug when you solder it. It creates a stress point that leads to the wire breaking off. Always put a small dab of solder on the lug and wire and 'tack' solder the wire to the lug. It makes for a more reliable connection.

Thanks BigAl56! This tip is contrary to what I've seen in a lot of videos, but I'll be sure to not wrap them through the lug, especially since the wiring in this game is over 40 years old and brittle to begin with

#17 51 days ago

I've always done it the way BigAl56 described because I hate wrestling with looped in lug wires when trying to unsolder them.

#18 51 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

I've always done it the way BigAl56 described because I hate wrestling with looped in lug wires when trying to unsolder them.

In my experience, you never argue with someone named Big Al! Cheers all! Marking this thread resolved and will move to a new topic when I encounter my next challenge!

Justin

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