(Topic ID: 108514)

Board repair warning worries

By sethbenjamin

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 75 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by northvibe
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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There are 75 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 9 years ago

#52 9 years ago

TheDefog: I just went into diagnostics and using "switch edges", I manually touched off all the switches. Every one of them is responsive. However, in "switch levels", a minute ago it was indicating "ramp down" and "visor closed"; I ran them again with the balls in the game and now it's saying "trough 1 sw" and "trough 2 sw". So that's consistent. Maybe unrelated, but a couple years ago I had a problem where the visor would not close, which was solved by replacing a broken switch. But the relationship between the visor switch and the ball trough seems strange. However, the game won't release a ball to the trough until all the play field parts have reset, so it could be as simple as replacing the other switch on the motor housing (the one I should have replaced while I was in there the first time?)

To answer your question, YES IT DID scare the beezeezis out of me when the glass blew up. My games are in my concrete floor woodshop, but I always put the glass down on either corrugated cardboard or a rubber floor mat. I've done it a hundred times, I think the game is just testing my devotion at this point.

#53 9 years ago

Sometimes a scratch will release the glass tension when twisted and BAM! Shop-vac city.

#54 9 years ago

Yeah, I figure that glass could well be 27 years old and it was by no means pristine...

#55 9 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

TheDefog: I just went into diagnostics and using "switch edges", I manually touched off all the switches. Every one of them is responsive. However, in "switch levels", a minute ago it was indicating "ramp down" and "visor closed"; I ran them again with the balls in the game and now it's saying "trough 1 sw" and "trough 2 sw". So that's consistent.

Did the eye socket switches test okay? And was the ramp down and visor closed when it said it was?

#56 9 years ago

Thedefog: I'm going to be working on it this afternoon or tomorrow at the latest. The old visor switch arm looks pretty loose, so I'm going to replace it and see if that fixes the problem. Once I got the assembly taken apart, I decided to replace the foam behind the spot targets; I discovered that the plastic guide for the dropping spot target bank has a crack...fortunately I have a friend who owns a 3D printer!

The eye socket switches are working when I touch them off in Switch Edges.

#57 9 years ago

Weather stripping works great to keep the shots from bouncing out. I do it on all games with ball locks.

#58 9 years ago

Pleased to report that, a few hours of dropping screws that always seem to find their way under that raise panel where the bottom speaker mounts and one replacement switch later, PinBot Lives Again! (Man oh man, I am definitely building myself a rotisserie work table for next time.)

The game acts REALLY WEIRD when those switches get broken. My advice to PinBot owners is, if you haven't replaced them, do it. They're cheap, it's an easy fix, and they WILL break on you. The light gauge metal arm on those just gets flakey and craps out. While you're in there, you can add the foam weatherstripping behind the spots, as the existing is either turning to dust or has fallen out long ago.

Pinball Life order for new glass goes in tomorrow. Thanks once again for the sage advice along this little journey. Clearly couldn't do it without the forum. Cheers!

#59 9 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Pinball Life order for new glass goes in tomorrow. Thanks once again for the sage advice along this little journey. Clearly couldn't do it without the forum. Cheers!

Great job! I'd suggest getting glass done locally. I have a place right down the street that will do tempered glass for me for Pins for around $35.

#60 9 years ago

Great!

Also, ask local Pinheads for used pf glass, someone might have one to sell.....

Now you can buy your brother a multimeter and teach him how to use it for Christmas!!

#61 9 years ago

I just called local glass places and found one custom cut for $30. Remember to tell them not to stamp the glass tempered if you don't want to see that.

#62 9 years ago

Yeah, I called the local glass place this morning - $31 and change. About half what it would cost to have it shipped. NO BRAINER.

#63 9 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Yeah, I called the local glass place this morning - $31 and change. About half what it would cost to have it shipped. NO BRAINER.

And you're supporting your local businesses and economy at the same time!

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#64 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

I just called local glass places and found one custom cut for $30. Remember to tell them not to stamp the glass tempered if you don't want to see that.

The official thing to ask for is "No Bug".

#65 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The official thing to ask for is "No Bug".

OK i gotta ask why is that the term?

and what term is the best for dressing the edges? as i have gotten glass that was extremely well rounded and smooth and others almost sharp and or rough?

#66 9 years ago

Tempered glass typically comes with an etched mark, known as a "bug" mark, indicating that it is tempered.

#67 9 years ago

CNKay: The glass shop *should* ask you how you'd like the edge finished. I think they typically will offer a rounded vs. chamfered edge. I told my local shop to simply finish the edge with whatever was cheapest as long as it makes is easy to handle/not sharp. I think rounded is probably the most typical.

#68 9 years ago

"seamed, tempered, no logo"

#69 9 years ago

Oh there you go! Seamed, tempered with bug for me! Why wouldn't you want a little Proof "BUG" stamp in the corner of the glass. I would think that if on location you would have to prove safety glass is being used.

i do remember once the guy asked if i wanted logo, i said yes, when i picked it up i saw no logo, he said they must have forgot it, i didn't really care.

#70 9 years ago
Quoted from CNKay:

i do remember once the guy asked if i wanted logo, i said yes, when i picked it up i saw no logo, he said they must have forgot it, i didn't really care.

You say "no bug" then almost without fail it comes with the logo, you then are offered it "at cost" for 1/2 price.

Once it's tempered, it can't be cut down for any other use.

#71 9 years ago

well while we are talking glass. I wanted to get a couple pieces for the oven to do the plastic flattening technique. should i get tempered or just pane? i don't think thickness should matter but i better ask as well.

#72 9 years ago

just take two pieces out of picture frames you have around to do the plastic flattening.. no need to go custom order stuff.

#73 9 years ago

well that is a novel idea but i can say that all in my house would be either to big or two small. i was just going to stop by my glass guy next time and see if he has a couple pieces of scrap. the couple piece of plastic that i want to do are fairly large.

#74 9 years ago

Ask for any scratched glass at the shop.

Have them knock down the sharp edges.

#75 9 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

Great job! I'd suggest getting glass done locally. I have a place right down the street that will do tempered glass for me for Pins for around $35.

You just have to give them dimensions and edge type?

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