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(Topic ID: 273426)

Board Repair : Mattel Las Vegas Pinball


By wiggy07

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 46 days ago by cad-kid
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 3 months ago

Reaching out to anyone who does board repair. My friend has a Mattel Las Vegas pinball that needs board and chip testing as well as replacement of some burned out chips. If anyone is interested and wants to help out my friend it would be greatly appreciated. I know the game is probably not worth much but it means a lot to him since it is a family hand me down. I can provide pics of the board if needed. Of course payment would be provided for the labor and chips. Thanks for the help

Lee

IPDB Entry : https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3820

Video of the pinball machine on YouTube:

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#2 3 months ago

I see some spider chips on the board.

Full sized schematic of the board is here:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/8/85/LasVegas_schematic.pdf

Service manual is here:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/7/7e/LasVegas_Service_Manual.pdf

#3 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I see some spider chips on the board.
Full sized schematic of the board is here:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/8/85/LasVegas_schematic.pdf
Service manual is here:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/7/7e/LasVegas_Service_Manual.pdf

Thanks Ken for the info, much appreciated, IPDB has the schematics and manual as well. I took a look at both. I was wondering if anyone online fixed or wanted to fix the board since I am not so proficient in board repair.

Thanks again for reaching out.

#4 3 months ago

Maybe try Steve Kulpa?

#5 3 months ago

The display driver spider chip is probably the same as used in Gottlieb System 1 games, but the PPS4 CPU chip is mask programmed and unique to this game.

Most probably, and least costly, the electrolytic capacitors on board have failed. If replacing those does not help, the switch matrix driver chips are cheap to replace. But more detailed description of the problems would be nice.

#6 3 months ago

There are a few resistors that look cooked as well.

#7 3 months ago

Thanks everyone for the posts so far.

What happened i believe is my friend was replacing the bulbs with the power on and shorted out the game, The game turns on, the lights and some of the switches don't seem to work. Another weird thing is that the scoreboard will turn on but you can see it fading as the power stays on in the game. Just looking for someone to test the chips on the board and make sure they are working. The chips that are cooked and failing would need to be replaced.

Treborlicec, you are correct the 2nd pic shows some resistors that blew on the board. It seems like no fuses are used in the game so the resistor takes the hit when the game is shorted out I assume.

Ken, thanks for the lead, maybe I will give a shout out to Steve and see if he is willing to look at the board.

Thanks again for the responses.

#8 3 months ago

Maybe reach out to the guy in the video you posted from Pinball Mayhem. It sounded like he was going to be working on fixing the board on the one he purchased.

Ed

#9 3 months ago
Quoted from eharan:

Maybe reach out to the guy in the video you posted from Pinball Mayhem. It sounded like he was going to be working on fixing the board on the one he purchased.
Ed

Ed, good idea, i just reached out to Pinball Mayhem. Thanks for the response to the issue that I posted.

#10 3 months ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

Ed, good idea, i just reached out to Pinball Mayhem. Thanks for the response to the issue that I posted.

Jeremy from Pinball Mayhem here

It may be a month or more before I really dig into mine but I have made some good progress with some basic testing. Turns out the board won't fully boot when a switch is stuck (makes sense). I disconnected the playfield switch harness connector and shazam - it booted. So my board appears to be properly working but I have not fully tested it with the playfield switches plugged in.

I will shoot you an email
Jeremy - Pinball Mayhem

#11 3 months ago

Here's some information for board repair people:

It appears the transistors which are "house marked" as 224N1 are actually 2N3904 and the ones marked 223P1 are actually 2N3906.

#12 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Here's some information for board repair people:
It appears the transistors which are "house marked" as 224N1 are actually 2N3904 and the ones marked 223P1 are actually 2N3906.

Thank you

#13 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Here's some information for board repair people:
It appears the transistors which are "house marked" as 224N1 are actually 2N3904 and the ones marked 223P1 are actually 2N3906.

awesome, thanks Ken.

#14 3 months ago

Unless there is something wrong with the spider chips, this board should be a fairly straightforward one to repair.

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Unless there is something wrong with the spider chips, this board should be a fairly straightforward one to repair.

That's what I'll be counting on

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Maybe try Steve Kulpa?

is steve still around? I know he used to live near me

1 month later
#17 58 days ago

There are some forum members here that do board repairs.

1 week later
#18 48 days ago

Here's some pics from the board repairs. Main failure point appears to be that high voltage (30V) got into the switch low voltage (15 volt) and blew a chip. Still working through some bugs but making progress.

Comparison of my board and the board to be repaired. My board is an older version but it appears to only have a few relocated components (minor changes).

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Blown chip

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here's the underside

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left skid marks on the board

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new chip sitting in a nice socket

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#19 48 days ago

Other repairs and upgrades done to the board (My board will get these also)

This board had high heat marks left by the old zener diode and resistor - new ones installed up off the board for better cooling (small transistor also replaced)

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New small electrolytic caps installed

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New resistors installed up off the header boards for better cooling (old ones left burn marks)

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before shot of old diode bridges

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upgraded to 8 amp bridges

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#20 48 days ago

That's more like it.

It's good that you are mounting the heat generating parts higher off the board for better air flow. Also good that you use sockets for the integrated circuits.

Good job spotting that blown chip.

#21 48 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

That's more like it.
It's good that you are mounting the heat generating parts higher off the board for better air flow. Also good that you use sockets for the integrated circuits.
Good job spotting that blown chip.

Thank you

#22 47 days ago

Nice job Jeremy...

#23 47 days ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

Nice job Jeremy...

Much appreciated

#24 46 days ago

I forgot the most important pic of the board repair - the underside! Where my work really shows - as in it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb where I replaced the chip with a socket.

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#25 46 days ago

UPDATE - the bugs have been fixed - apart from some further play testing to verify the repairs stick and nothing else craps out - I am calling this repair done!

So - what were the bugs? Well after the initial component replacement (blown chip, and other components that showed overheating) a game could only be started if a pop pumper or sling was activated first (very odd). On this game the solenoids are active all the time (there is no relay for these). Also during a game the pops/slings would not score any points.

There was more than one reason as is the case with most things that are 42 years old. ONE: a simple resistance test of the start button circuit path led me to the header pins on the board. Not only were they lightly corroded but when I went to resolder them the solder actually went away from the pins! After cleaning and resoldering the resistance test passed. TWO: As to the pops/slings: This circuit ties the activation switches to a signal amplifier - this signal goes to a transistor and that signal then goes along a similar path as the start signal. I believe this transistor was flaky and locked on causing the start signal to be ignored. After a pop was fired the transistor would relax. I tested this by removing the transistor - the game would start normally. Lucky for me this was the same part number transistor that I replaced in the high voltage circuit and I ordered extras (always order extras if they are cheap).

In the pic below my son is enjoying testing out the repairs

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