(Topic ID: 325037)

Board part ID High Speed

By Catch22

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Catch22
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

HSmatrix (resized).jpg
board2 (resized).jpg
board (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

Hope this post is allowed, trying to diagnose which parts to buy and replace, for this burnt board. Would be great if you could guide me to the best place to buy them as well. Thanks in advance.

board (resized).jpgboard (resized).jpgboard2 (resized).jpgboard2 (resized).jpg
#2 1 year ago

I suggest you send it to one of the numerous, reputable board repairers on this site.

Unless you have VERY good soldering and electronic repair skills, this IS NOT the board to be practicing on!

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Catch22:

Hope this post is allowed, trying to diagnose which parts to buy and replace, for this burnt board. Would be great if you could guide me to the best place to buy them as well. Thanks in advance. [quoted image][quoted image]

You can look up part specifications on the board schematic. You can download a (not very good) scanned copy of the manual here: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1176. Page 56 has the board diagram with parts list. Seems to me that, at a minimum, you'd want to replace everything that's burned out: the resistor array, the resistors and capacitors, and possibly the transistor immediately below them (hard to tell if the problem started there, or there's just smoke that got on it).

Of course, you will want to try to figure out what caused the problem in the first place. If you just accidentally shorted something and know it's not going to happen again, that's fine, but if these just blew up for an undetermined reason, just replacing those components is probably just going to lead to them doing that again. In either case, probably want to buy extras.

As for source, any of the usual electronics supply places should have what you need. I'm partial to Digi-key, sometimes order from Mouser, and have heard that Great Plains Electronics and Newark Electronics are also good stores but have never used them myself.

And yes, it goes without saying, make sure you have the skills to tackle this kind of work. That said, if you screw it up, you most likely still have the option of sending it to someone more qualified; you're unlikely to completely destroy the board, even if you do make things a little worse it should be fixable, though at more expense. Also, used boards of unknown quality can sometimes be found on eBay, Craigslist, etc. and if all else fails you can buy a brand new replacement board, like this $500 option: https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-williams-system-9-11-11c-mpu-board.html

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Catch22:

Hope this post is allowed, trying to diagnose which parts to buy and replace, for this burnt board. Would be great if you could guide me to the best place to buy them as well. Thanks in advance. [quoted image][quoted image]

Pop bumper coils, or the switches associated stuck closed. Easy fix if you take your time. Test your coils. Visually inspect switch contact points.

HSmatrix (resized).jpgHSmatrix (resized).jpg
#5 1 year ago

I would send it out and be done with it!
Looks rough

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I would send it out and be done with it!
Looks rough

Looks rough from the pic, but just the resistor exploded(from what we can see) causing the secondary burns, which usually can be cleaned up, if they test within tolerance.

I agree, if you don't do board work, send it out. If you feel like you can clean it up, test the components and maybe discuss it with some of the board gurus here, they will usually be honest about fixing it or shipping it out.

#7 1 year ago

Awesome, thanks so much, Much appreciated everyone for the quick responses! I will use the manual and get these specific parts. I believe when I put the upper flipper in, maybe it caused this. But from the chart someone else listed, that seems wrong? That is the only that I replaced on the entire machine. The machine will boot up and all flippers work, just four switches, have multiple actions now. To me the rest of the board looks perfect So I wanted to switch out these components but was having a hard time finding the specific resistor and capacitor values. This helps alot! I will check the Digi-key, that's a huge help!

Thanks to all that posted.

Quoted from pete_d:

You can look up part specifications on the board schematic. You can download a (not very good) scanned copy of the manual here: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1176. Page 56 has the board diagram with parts list. Seems to me that, at a minimum, you'd want to replace everything that's burned out: the resistor array, the resistors and capacitors, and possibly the transistor immediately below them (hard to tell if the problem started there, or there's just smoke that got on it).
Of course, you will want to try to figure out what caused the problem in the first place. If you just accidentally shorted something and know it's not going to happen again, that's fine, but if these just blew up for an undetermined reason, just replacing those components is probably just going to lead to them doing that again. In either case, probably want to buy extras.
As for source, any of the usual electronics supply places should have what you need. I'm partial to Digi-key, sometimes order from Mouser, and have heard that Great Plains Electronics and Newark Electronics are also good stores but have never used them myself.
And yes, it goes without saying, make sure you have the skills to tackle this kind of work. That said, if you screw it up, you most likely still have the option of sending it to someone more qualified; you're unlikely to completely destroy the board, even if you do make things a little worse it should be fixable, though at more expense. Also, used boards of unknown quality can sometimes be found on eBay, Craigslist, etc. and if all else fails you can buy a brand new replacement board, like this $500 option: https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-williams-system-9-11-11c-mpu-board.html

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Catch22:

Awesome, thanks so much, Much appreciated everyone for the quick responses! I will use the manual and get these specific parts. I believe when I put the upper flipper in, maybe it caused this. But from the chart someone else listed, that seems wrong? That is the only that I replaced on the entire machine. The machine will boot up and all flippers work, just four switches, have multiple actions now. To me the rest of the board looks perfect So I wanted to switch out these components but was having a hard time finding the specific resistor and capacitor values. This helps alot! I will check the Digi-key, that's a huge help!
Thanks to all that posted.

Keep in mind that, just replacing parts that obviously look cooked, will not necessarily fix your problem. Electronic parts can be destroyed and still look perfectly OK.

Also, after replacing the obviously toast parts, it is very possible that they will go "WHOOSH" up in smoke again.

This is why it really is necessary to have at least a rudimentary understanding of electronics and to know what it is you are replacing and what effects those parts have with the other components they are wired to.

#9 1 year ago

I totally agree, That is why I had a technician double check everything under the playfield and he asked me to post on here to find specifics for me to source the components. I appreciate the concern and post ty.

Quoted from pins4u:

Keep in mind that, just replacing parts that obviously look cooked, will not necessarily fix your problem. Electronic parts can be destroyed and still look perfectly OK.
Also, after replacing the obviously toast parts, it is very possible that they will go "WHOOSH" up in smoke again.
This is why it really is necessary to have at least a rudimentary understanding of electronics and to know what it is you are replacing and what effects those parts have with the other components they are wired to.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Catch22:

I totally agree, That is why I had a technician double check everything under the playfield and he asked me to post on here to find specifics for me to source the components. I appreciate the concern and post ty.

I have a complete List of the parts for system 11 MPU, just message me and I can send it to you.

Ken

#11 1 year ago

Wow, I've never seen a switch matrix do that with all the system 3-11 games I have had. In addition to what people said about parts I would (or have your guy) figure out why that burned.

Good luck

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from KJL:

Wow, I've never seen a switch matrix do that with all the system 3-11 games I have had. In addition to what people said about parts I would (or have your guy) figure out why that burned.
Good luck

Sometimes when you work on stuff, things shift around, stuff will touch other things and BAM.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Sometimes when you work on stuff, things shift around, stuff will touch other things and BAM.

Yep true but do you use that as your troubleshooting approach?

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from KJL:

Yep true but do you use that as your troubleshooting approach?

Not as my main approach. If I go through my normal test routine, I always default back to what did I do last. Occams razer will apply if all else fails.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have a complete List of the parts for system 11 MPU, just message me and I can send it to you.
Ken

Thank you for the list, I have double checked things under the playfield and ran through all the tests from the coin door, and everything else seems to be working except for what fried on this matrix. Will keep you all informed when I have sourced those components and rework the board.

The reason to the others posted why I would prefer to do this work, then "send it off" or "buy a new board" is if something was overlooked from the "technician" Then I would be wasting alot of money by buying a new board or paying to have it redone. If I replace these components and clean up the board, then I save that money. The Tech already told me to "just replace boards" on Barracora and it still is not working, and I "Wasted" money

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 11.00
4,995 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Dunakeszi

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/board-part-id-high-speed- and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.