(Topic ID: 317539)

BLY Kick Off pulled from house fire documentation

By EJS

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by EJS
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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 1 year ago

I figured this is best place to post this. This thread wasn’t created for technical issues; although if I find something goofy I’ll make mention of it. This is definitely not going to be a full blown restoration. This is for your viewing pleasure of a resuscitation of an EM.

Anyway. I’ll try to break things down a bit.

The story is this: at one point this machine was, obviously, subjected to a fire. I’m told it was a house fire. The owner before me worked for a fire restoration company and somehow acquired this game. He played it after the fire as indicated by the “anti” ball tracks. That’s right, they played the game post fire and the ball rolled around cleaning the machine.

Updates to this thread will not be fast as I have MANY projects going right now. Slick Chick is almost done being shopped, my Atlantis restoration thread is being neglected and I really want to do my playfield swap on GTB Knock Out.

If for any reason I need to throw in the towel I’ll make it clear. Until then the attempt is to bring this machine back to life to be enjoyed and the process is in motion until further notice.

Here is the machine as I arrive to receive it:

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#2 1 year ago

Let’s start with the backbox. This is where most of the smoke and heat damage is. This is where most of the bad news is.

Bad news:

-lots of smoke damage seared onto the cabinet.
-lots of rust on the stepper units probably caused by the fire department doing their job. Won’t hold that against them at all.
-backglass is cracked and a top chunk or two can be removed. Could have been from heat but we don’t know for sure.

Some good news:

-mechanically complete
-glass isn’t terribly flaking
-only smoke damage, no direct flame contact.
-cabinet art largely intact
-back door is here. Given the circumstances you’d think it could be missing.

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#3 1 year ago

The pedestal:

Well I have an original 455 bulb laying in the cash box area that appears good so I have something to be happy about.

Over time someone was wise to keep the coin door closed to prevent moisture invasion (more rust) and turn this into a parts machine. The coin door is still rusty inside and out. A lot of plungers have surface rust on them but not enough to stop them from moving. Larger springs will need to be cleaned.

Smoke damage isn’t as bad here. This fire must have happened many years ago as my nose is picking up more notes of barn than smoke.

The lockdown bar already cleaned up well. It needs more detailed help before I go higher than 240 sandpaper. Same goes for the side rails. It has potential. Best to see if I can get the machine working before I put too much time in on the cosmetics.

Will this game ever see 43,000 plays?

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#4 1 year ago

The part you’ve all scrolled down to see. The playfield!

It’s a little bittersweet.

It’s surprisingly nice but the inserts have sunken more than I’d like to see. With everything I’m facing that’s the least of my worries.

If I can get the game to function I’ll definitely reward myself with a drop target set and new pop bumper caps. I won’t even try to clean the light sockets. PCB mounted LEDs will be the solution if I get the game working. I might even have to get creative with the GI for that too.

I didn’t get a picture of the legs but they are what you’d imagine. They would annihilate my current batch of evaporust tubes. I have some ribbed BLY/WMS seconds I could use. Maybe I’ll sand and paint them. I’m still pretty budget conscious on this game so far. I have a repro set but I’m saving those for Captain fantastic.

In the second picture you can see where the ball is cleaning the playfield. That isn’t damage. That’s good news of how the game will clean up. Same thing going on with the starburst around the pop bumpers. It actually looks neat as if it was part of the original artwork package.

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#5 1 year ago

Nice save. Good luck!

#6 1 year ago

Today is bath time for the player unit.

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#7 1 year ago

Great to see this getting some love. Would love to see it working again!

#8 1 year ago

Thanks for posting the rescue of Bally's last released EM pinball.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Thanks for posting the rescue of Bally's last released EM pinball.

I’ll definitely need the motivation when I hit a rough spot but so far it’s smooth sailing. Got a lot done today.

Player stepper parts are out of the evaporust and received some sanding and are now in the parts polisher.

Spent a bit of time on the legs I’ll make one separate post for the legs themselves.

Back to the garage to sand the contact pads in question. Polished up the pivot points on the bracket just now. Really happy with the way the rust is falling off.

Hopefully I’ll paint the legs and back panel tomorrow if the wind calms down. I’m not crazy about painting the back panel since the game originally shipped raw but a lot of exceptions are going to happen with this project.

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#10 1 year ago
Quoted from EJS:

sand the contact pads in question.

I use a #0000 steel wool for cleaning contact points/print biscuits .
I find that in some cases I have to take needle nose pliers
and slightly squeeze the contacts to the finger blades.
Every now and then one comes across intermittent contact glitches.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Side note:
On high use step up units, I have found it is best to use PEM nuts
to better adhere the 8-32 machine screws with the coil stops to the main bracket.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks, for keeping the progress posted.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

use PEM nuts
to better adhere the 8-32 machine screws with the coil stops to the main bracket

Hey that’s a good idea especially since there’s plenty of threaded material to play around with. If there’s ever a time to do it nows it. On some of my other restorations I’ve put new nuts on and saved the used ones so a good opportunity to reuse.

#12 1 year ago

Player unit all back together. Added very thin coat of superlube to the mechanics and small drops on the pivot points to keep things from freezing up.
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Next up is the credit unit. Rinse and repeat, literally.

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#13 1 year ago

Alright, time for more attention to legs you'll see online than OnlyFans.

Pretty rough shape. Fortunately all nuts are in place to help remove the levelers.

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Rust is so bad it ate most of the way through one.

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All of them came out. One was easier than the rest as it snapped off. Not much force needed. I was able to get pliers inside the leg and pull out the opposite way. Plenty of help from WD-40

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Post evaporust treatment. Hose it down and the original paint is starting to show. You can tell a darker coat was previously applied. Appeared it may have had some webbing properties. I don't think this was factory?

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Found some spare cans of spray paint at moms house I was able to use for an easy coat. I have some used levelers around here I'll add from some I pulled when I replaced with a new set of legs on higher end restorations.

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#15 1 year ago
Quoted from EJS:

Plenty of help from WD-40

See, it's good for something!
Nice work so far.

#16 1 year ago

evapo rust ..nice

#17 1 year ago

Made some progress today. Took the guts out of the pedestal and got some compressed air on it to help a little with the smell. Set it in the sun for a couple hours. I usually avoid compressed air since I worry about creating cold relay contacts.

Got a new line cord installed too. I had to zip tie it to something else since the cord straps in the far back crumbled apart from looking at them the wrong way. The transformer looked slightly suspicious so I did plug in to make sure the line fuse didn’t blow. Aftermarket fuse holder was installed. I’ll reverse the mod once I get the game powered up and looking at other things.

I like how the steppers down below don’t need to be completely torn apart but I’m giving them some attention.

0-9’s unit taking a bath right now I’ll post some before/after pics tonight or tomorrow in my next post.

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#18 1 year ago

is the smell you slightly eliminated from the wood? or is it an iron smell ?

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Dragon:

is the smell you slightly eliminated from the wood? or is it an iron smell ?

Well as of a day later the smell is more removed than I expected. It’s pretty musty/basement/ barn smell. Not much iron.

To be on the safe side I think I’ll do more than compressed air….

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It’s now or never for some ozone. Once new rubber rings are in place there’s no going back.

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#20 1 year ago

All smells are particulate in nature. All of them.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from GregCon:

All smells are particulate in nature. All of them.

I particularly hate the ones emitting from this cabinet

#22 1 year ago

Alright who wants to see a video of this thing powered up?

This was my second power up attempt. Nothing happened the first time I tried so I just deleted the video. Turns out one of the lugs on the power switch rusted completed off.

There are some obvious noob oversights I make if anyone can spot them. Basically I'm trying to put everything together in my head real fast as I learn what is happening and what isn't.

#23 1 year ago

Time to clean the jones plugs.

I've never been this aggressive on the plugs but with all the corrosion going on I might as well slip a file in there to attack the outside contact. Not going to worry about the two inside contact points now. This obviously stretches things out a bit so I'm sure to pinch everything back in. The connector is now challenging to push in, just how I want it.
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The male plug will be treated with 600 grit. I like 400 but I don't want to look for clean sheets of it right now.

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Can you see one pin on the plug already came off? This is pre filing too. I work the rest of the pins and two more come off. Grrrr. The good news is one of the three is vacant.

Now I'm starting to wonder if this is going to become one of those games where some idiot soldered all the wires together bypassing the plugs?
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Oh well, wire nuts for now will worry about this later. The good news is everything fits more snug.

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The end result? See for yourself:

#24 1 year ago

cool its fun seeing what you find while taming a disaster

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from Dragon:

cool its fun seeing what you find while taming a disaster

My next task is:

Score relays work but do not advance any of the score units. Hopefully just a common wire off.

#26 1 year ago

Rebuilding score reels....are they better or worse than rebuilding pop bumpers? I can't decide.

Alright so after playing around I found no action on any of the scoring relays on player 1. So I advanced to player 2. Now they start working. What about player 3 and 4? Also scores fine. Alright let's look at the player stepper maybe an open contact. Nope.

Turns out, the rust is so bad the plungers are frozen inside the score reel coils. The 10,000 was actually ok but there's no manipulating that by it's own relay. Not only were the plungers rusty the posts for the switch stacks to pivot on were rusted badly on some. I thought I was going to break the plastic removing a couple. Here's the damage from the main brackets:
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#27 1 year ago

Front and back of each score reel before and the finish product of the bracket cleaning.

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#28 1 year ago

Kudos to you for persevering through this game.

#29 1 year ago

Wow! I’m impressed by your dedication and expertise.

#30 1 year ago

Alright the score reels for player 1 have been rebuilt!

Overall a success.

Need to figure out why every once in awhile player 3 flinches it's 10,000 reel every once in awhile. The scoring value for the top inlanes do not agree. Maybe there is a stuck point value relay or I'm rolling over something that is lit for more value? I'm sure I'll learn more about the rules as I go along. As with most EM's playing a few games can solve a lot of problems too.

For those of you who like videos here are the results.

#31 1 year ago

New fuse holders really brighten things up. All 3 fuses are those that came with the game.

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#32 1 year ago

Alright this is the point where I feel in order to address the issues the game simply needs to be played. In order to do that it would be nice if things were a bit cleaner….so here we go!!

A couple close ups for some fresh playfield from the 70s

Last picture is after 1 coat of crazy clean. So the playfield is still dull/ no wax.

While it’s apart I’ll replace the following:

*Pop bumper bodies, skirts, caps and coil sleeves. I’ll do the spoons later since they are easy to get to separately.
*Flipper links and new bats without the metal shoes. New sleeves too. Will do EOS switches later.
*Drop Targets
*Shooter Rod
*Ball
*Rubber will be “perfect play” from pinballlife. I normally don’t get colored rubber but thought I’d go with red to match the explosions on the playfield. Trying yellow superbands too.
*GI lighting will be Comet LED as the sockets are in fair shape.
*Feature lights will be Anarchy PCB LED

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#33 1 year ago

reds and yellow rubber will be fun to see on this play field

#34 1 year ago

Pinballlife and Steve Young orders should arrive this week.

Got the pop bumpers rebuilt this weekend and cleaned all those small pesky playfield parts (pic below)

I was fortunate to get a lot done with my PTO this week so may not get a chance to give more updates until next weekend. Really excited to play this thing!

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#35 1 year ago

when i first saw the picture i was left wondering why all the chess peices in the box . the posts cleaned up real nice

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from EJS:

Pinballlife and Steve Young orders should arrive this week.
Got the pop bumpers rebuilt this weekend and cleaned all those small pesky playfield parts (pic below)
I was fortunate to get a lot done with my PTO this week so may not get a chance to give more updates until next weekend. Really excited to play this thing!
[quoted image]

Nice work so far!

#37 1 year ago

So, regarding the 3rd player 10,000 advancing while player 1 is up appears to be resolved. Here are my findings:

Pinball Life order is in! Just waiting on drop targets and pop bumper caps from Steve.
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Hard to see in the order but I'm glad I got some new springs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the shorter spring is incorrect for the flippers? Looks like they belong on pops or something. Seems too short and weak. These are the springs that came installed on the game. The longer springs I had ordered.

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#38 1 year ago
Quoted from EJS:

So, regarding the 3rd player 10,000 advancing while player 1 is up appears to be resolved. Here are my findings:

Pinball Life order is in! Just waiting on drop targets and pop bumper caps from Steve.
[quoted image]
Hard to see in the order but I'm glad I got some new springs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the shorter spring is incorrect for the flippers? Looks like they belong on pops or something. Seems too short and weak. These are the springs that came installed on the game. The longer springs I had ordered.
[quoted image]

Flipper springs:
Bally SP-200-185 = short spring design for square cut flipper link #P-1973-356.
Items above discontinued.
Superseded by new parts.
Bally SP-200-212 = long spring design for receded counter cut flipper link #P-1973-408.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

design for receded counter cut flipper link

That’s music to my ears! Guess I can cut out those washers that are still awkwardly hanging on the edge of the links then. Why wouldn’t it surprise me if there’s an updated washer too. Im not in front of the game but I don’t think the existing washer sat inside the cutouts

#40 1 year ago

Little teaser for you all. Will get more updates/pics posted soon. Still have to wax playfield and finish shooter assembly before it’s playable. Feature lights still incandescent except for the inlanes at the top.

Still a long ways to go before it’s considered “done”. I’ll be in the market for a backglass if anyone spots one. I’m debating if I want to repaint the cabinet at this point.

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#41 1 year ago

LEDs starting to go in tonight.

I’d say 70% of the sockets are fine but for consistency will be nice to get all LEDs

The originals 44s are very hot on the inserts and if you look close the inserts are starting to get spider web cracks in them so best to keep things cool.

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#42 1 year ago

those red and yellow rubbers you went with look great, it looks really fun

new paint would give it a good seal , this looks like a good game

amazing how fast your gaining on this project

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from Dragon:

those red and yellow rubbers you went with look great, it looks really fun
new paint would give it a good seal , this looks like a good game
amazing how fast your gaining on this project

I'm really back and forth on repainting the cabinet. Dave brought up a neat point that it shows off part of the history from the front. You won't really see much of the sides since it will be in a lineup eventually. Right now I'm 51% in favor of repainting the cabinet.

Yeah I'm surprised at how fast I've been working on it. Things will slow down again this week between the heat wave and work. I soldered more light bulbs in and even at 75F outside the humidity is killer.

The game is playable with 1 player. Still don't know how to light the 30 yard standup target. Does anyone know?

#44 1 year ago

Not normally a fan of colored rubber (except for flippers), but in this case it looks great since the posts are white. Sometimes new white rubber on vintage ivory posts just looks... off. Red is a great choice of course considering the playfield art & side rails. Thanks for rescuing this beauty.

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

Not normally a fan of colored rubber (except for flippers), but in this case it looks great since the posts are white. Sometimes new white rubber on vintage ivory posts just looks... off. Red is a great choice of course considering the playfield art & side rails. Thanks for rescuing this beauty.

Yeah I figured this would be my one time to step outside my comfort zone. I normally do white rings on all my other games.

If I could snap my fingers I’d like to see what yellow and green would look like but I think red compliments the best since it blends into the wood rails.

Shifting gears a little I did find the 30 yard relay but I think that’s for the top inlanes. Still haven’t figured out how to light up the standup. Since the LEDs ghost I know the sockets and bulbs are good.

#46 1 year ago

Feature lights are all converted to LED PCBs

883421AD-67DE-47CC-B919-3980C5D7672B (resized).jpeg883421AD-67DE-47CC-B919-3980C5D7672B (resized).jpeg
4 weeks later
#47 1 year ago

Been almost a month!

Work has been busy and weather has been warm for working in the garage.

I’m working on a video of what’s still going on with this machine. Today I’m working on the coin door!

26E28FAF-C97A-4BB4-92F0-73AC67A405C9 (resized).jpeg26E28FAF-C97A-4BB4-92F0-73AC67A405C9 (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#48 1 year ago

Video of some of the misc issues I've been working on plus the cleaning up of the door.

Still procrastinating on the score reels for players 2-4.

1 month later
#49 1 year ago

EJS I just picked up a Bally Kick Off! for a winter project and this is the first thread I found on it so thanks.

I will have more questions, is there a Bally EM Club to ask those questions in? It is my second EM and first Ballly.

It is missing the backbox door so your pictures helped to determine it is wood. Can you post the door dimensions so I can cut one. Not super important right now but I'll be reading through this thread before I figure out all the things not working.

Kenny

#50 1 year ago

Played one of these recently at the Ann Arbor VFW pinball showcase, reminded me of this thread. Hope it's going well.

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