Gulfstream
Williams, 1973Thanks, Ken. I was considering that for a test of the questionable coils. Good to know that Only need to unsolder one lead and not all of them. Pinball Resource doesn't appear to have a schematic for the Gulfstream. I can't find one elsewhere either, so I am going at this a bit blind, not to mention inexperienced, so I really appreciate everyone's patience and help. I'll take another pass, carefully inspecting the suggested areas.
Look at pinwiki.com em section. It's shows how to build a breaker switch so you don't burn thru fuses.
Quoted from gmohrs:The coil that ejects the ball from the outhole reads 2.5.
If you pulled one wire of a lug of the coil to test this and it came up 2.5 then the coil is bad for sure. replace.
To backtrack a little I test all my coils (except flipper) with my digital multimeter first leaving all wires on because it is fast. Then if get a coil that tests under 4 ohms I unsolder one of the wires of a lug and test again as you can get a false reading with wires on. If it tests under 4 ohms it is suspect and I replace as a weak coil is the same as a bad coil. 2.5 or under bad for sure.
I bought my schematics and manual from PBR so you might want to check again as you may have requested original documentation and they only have copies.
Also I did not want to burden you with a fuse alternative so soon, but others have mentioned it, as down the line you could buy an in-line breaker from Mouser.com. part #655-W57-XB7A4A10-5 Tyco 5 amp breaker for around $2.00. You would need to modify it a bit and Just need put a blown fuse between the the two lugs. It will save you a lot on fuses. I have not bought one yet myself and have shopped a lot of EM machines but have not had an extensive electrical problem as you have.
Ken
OK. I took one of the wires off the coil that ejects the ball from the out hole. Still reads around 2.5. So there is probably one problem identified. I left the door unplugged and the coil with one lead off, replaced the fuse and tried again. It started up in tilt mode again. I hit the start button and the machine cycled. The lights animated on the back box. Got some chimes. But once the cycle had finished. Again, a loud buzz and the 15 amp fuse blows again. Grrr. I can't believe this thread has over 50 replies. I am grateful for all of your input on this. Anybody have an opinion on the readings that I got from the rectifier? I found it odd that I didn't detect any current when one lead was placed on the #4 lug.
That Buzz is coming from somewhere and you need to find out where. You need to use your ears as well as your eyes in this case. Sounds like a stuck coil that may be shorted as well causing the fuse to blow.
If it were me with that reading on the bridge rectifier I would get another from PBR for $4.19 on your next order just in case as I could use that as a test rectifier down the road if it turns out the old one is still good. As I mentioned before in other threads, I do not mind buying low cost extra parts if it saves me time and frustration later as that part can be used on many machines, but that is just me.
Ken
I agree. I won't mind buying low cost extra replacement parts that may turn out to be unnecessary. I had identified the loud buzz I was originally getting before I started unplugging parts of the game. It was the cabinet knocker. I had unplugged this, and also I had the machine closed when this happened, so I'll need to open it up and see where this buzz might be coming from.
The score resets to zero. Recycles right to the point where I'd imagine the out hole kick out coil would fire, but that coil was half unsoldered at the time.
Always a bit easier finding out what's going on with the machine with the the hood up (Playfield), so to speak, and the back panel off to the Head. This way when you start a game you are able to bounce around quickly to see/hear what the machine is or is not doing and maybe locate that buzz before a fuse blows.
Remember, Patience, looking at things and listening closely, along with taking your time will pay off.
Your doing great so far as you found one problem, you will find the others as well.
Ken
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:That Buzz is coming from somewhere and you need to find out where. You need to use your ears as well as your eyes in this case. Sounds like a stuck coil that may be shorted as well causing the fuse to blow
Take the fuse out and turn the machine on, do you here the buzz ?This will remove the Transformer from the equation.
The first time I turned on the machine, there was no buzz. Just a faint hum and no lights or anything. I believe this was because the fuse had already been blown before I got it. The buzz didn't show up until I replaced the fuse.
When you say , Comes up in Tilt mode. , do you mean the TILT light is on in the backglass?
A game shouldnt be able to be started in that mode
I for sure would like to see the schematic also!
Quoted from gmohrs:Unsoldered one lead to the Lock Relay coil. It looked a little cooked (but I also just read that might be normal). Meter reading was 18.2.
That's fine, but will needing to be replaced down the road maybe in the near future.
Ken
Yep. Exactly. Each time I replace the fuse, and as long as I keep the coin door unplugged, the machine starts up in tilt mode. The tilt light is on, and the ball count is always at 5. When I push the start button the tilt light goes out, the ball numbers count down, the score resets, and as soon as it has seemingly finished the cycle the fuse blows again. And this is still after I've disconnected the suspicious out hole kicker coil.
Open the machine with the lights dimmed. Start a game. Look for a big spark somewhere which may be a clue which will lead you to what you've been looking for. I'd bet it occurs on one of the score motor switches, then unplug it and trace what that switch does.
Quoted from gmohrs:Unsoldered one lead to the Lock Relay coil. It looked a little cooked (but I also just read that might be normal). Meter reading was 18.2.
That is an odd result, what have you got your meter set on.
Removed comment, just remember this is a 24v circuit 18 ohms is OK.
Quoted from gmohrs:the ball count is always at 5. When I push the start button the tilt light goes out, the ball numbers count down, the score resets, and as soon as it has seemingly finished the cycle the fuse blows again.
That's good.
Tilt being on and being able to start a game is wrong.
OK.
Unplug the Jones Plugs to the Playfield and and the Backbox. Start a game. What happens now? Still bow a fuse? If so your problem lies somewhere in the bottom cabinet.
Quoted from SteveFury:Open the machine with the lights dimmed. Start a game. Look for a big spark somewhere which may be a clue which will lead you to what you've been looking for. I'd bet it occurs on one of the score motor switches, then unplug it and trace what that switch does.
Also do what SteveFury says.
Ken
The only way you can resolve your issue is to systematically work thought the circuits. Start at the beginning. Sort out the lock RE then the Game Over RE first (GO Trip Coil). You don’t need to use a fuse to test each time, work with the machine off and use your DMM set to ohms and put it across the fuse . With all plugs in place and DMM across the fuse, manually operate the Lock RE what does the meter read before and after? Trip the game over RE what does the meter read before and after?
If you start with a -1 reading on the meter and after you manually operate the above coils get something different like 0 ohms. Put a piece of paper between all closed contacts on the above RE. and try again. Remove one piece of paper at a time and watch the reading. You are looking for a LOW reading.
Then with all the jones plugs in place what reading do you get? It should be -1. If it is other than -1 remove each plug one at a time and record the meter reading and post it here.
You need to do one check at a time.
Do you have a schematic for this machine?
The (hopefully not) never ending thread. Took Steve's advice and just tried all combinations of plugs. Possible progress - possibly not. The back box does not seem to be an issue at all. New fuse. Still starts up in tilt mode. The kick out coil for the out hole is still removed from the circuit. I have the coil that knocks the cabinet unplugged. When it is plugged in along with the coin door it locks up when power is on, with quite a buzz.
So now I have the back box, the playfield, and coin door plugged in. The only things disabled are the suspect out hole kick out coil and the cabinet knocker coil. Powers up fine. Still tilt mode. Ball count at 5. This time I hit the play button and nothing happened. Didn't clear the tilt status. I did trip the credit switch on each side of the coin door. Each time, the score motor cycled in the bottom cabinet, but it did not let me start a new game by pressing the start button.
Quoted from HELLODEADCITY:how many tilt SWs did you find ? 4-5 ?
I'm not sure what those are.
That's what I thought he was referencing. I'm not sure where I'd find them. I can trace the wires from the tilt plumb back to the plug in the bottom cabinet. No switches between the plumb and the plug. Another case in which a schematic would help, no doubt.
There should be at least 4. The pendulum or plum bob, the slam tilt on the coin door, a slam tilit on the bottom of the cabinet or on the underside of the playfield, and a roll tilt (on left side of cab, by the plum bob tilt that has a ball in it and a leaf switch at the end.
Did you go through the info on the pinrepair.com site that details how to systematically troubleshoot EM machines? It's extremely thorough, and written by an expert in the repair biz.
Oh, OK. I didn't think of those as switches, then yes, there are 4. The plumb, the rolling tilt that is missing the ball, but does have the switch at the end. There is a anti-slam switch on the coin door (posted a photo of that earlier). And a tilt switch on the bottom of the playfield.
On most games you have about 6 but sometimes over the years they get removed and all you see are two wires taped together.
as you mentioned the plumb bob and roll tilt (2) - those are for aggressive play or owners con/lib set up adj.
the others are know as slam tilts if someone kicks in the coin door or kicks up the bottom of the cab (2) or under the PF and in the Back Box (2).
the back box tilt SWs can sometimes be hard to find I remember on my GTB. Soccer it was hidden on the side near the score reels and that was the one keep the game on 'tilt'
Not sure I mentioned this, but the reading on the coil that was causing the buzzing was 3.0. This is the coil that knocks the cabinet (A2-23-600). When the door and it are both plugged in, it's locked open. Is this reading suspicious?
Knocker —
The solenoid that bangs the inside of the cabinet or backbox to produce a loud cracking noise that signals a free game. Also see Match.
Just so you don't keep saying "the coil that hits the cabinet" 
Quoted from gmohrs:LOL. Thanks. The "knocker" then. I'm guessing that it also knocks the cabinet when in tilt, thus my suspicion. What reading should I be getting?
I doubt it operates in tilt? - only for a free game award. I could be wrong - I was once 
In any case, if you are suspicious of it simply disconnect one wire from the KNOCKER coil and tape it up until you get the rest of the machine working.
Get yourself some index cards and cut into strips as to place between the movable armature plate & the coil thus not allowing the leaf switches to connect.Then pull the card strips out one at a time until the fuse blows . Now that its isolated to that circuit you know where to start. Can also be placed between the leafs themselves. Good luck
The knocker will pulse when a credit is added to the machine, such as while awarding a high score free play or a lucky draw on the match feature after a game. Some machines will fire (no pun intended) the knocker coil when adding credits to the machine. When coins are dropped in the slot. Some machines won't knock the cabinet when coins are inserted.
It's the universal audible sign the player has beat the game, so the knocker isn't supposed to activate when the machine tilts.
Progress. Replaced the out hole relay coil. Still blew the fuse. Replaced the rectifier - no blown fuse!! It seems that it was the rectifier after all! Thrilled, I played a few balls. Pop bumpers and flippers working great. Out hole relay working great. Just noticed that it wasn't scoring everything. Decided to clean the glass, and replace. & just enjoy the game as-is for now.
But then - new troubles. When I powered it back up, the scoring motor just runs and will not stop and I cannot start a new game. Seems to have solved the blowing fuses, but I'm still left with a non functioning game. You guys must have amazing patience.
Oops, sorry for the double post.
Might be worth sending $20 to clay, the pinball ninja for access to his blog. Tons of useful info there as he documents repairs he does.
Do a search on pinball ninja here to see the thread about it.
Won't be long till u get it working.
After some amazing support from everybody who has chimed in (pun intended) on this thread, I have narrowed down my problem. The score reels. The 100's & 10's reels reset to zero when the start button is pressed, but the 1,000's, and 10,000's reels do not reset and the motor just turns continuously. I can manually reset the reels and it plays just fine. Is there anything else you think I might need to check other than the switches?
So close - feels like I'm stuck on the one yard line. Adjusted the switches on all 4 reels to be open when they are supposed to be, and closed when they are supposed to be. Gaps seem OK. And all contacts cleaned. But still, the problem persists. When all the reels are set to zero (I can only do this manually), the game will play as normal. The reels seem to reset sequentially, starting with the 10's column. It's gets as far as resetting the 100's column and just goes into the state where the motor in the bottom cabinet just turns, and the 1000's and 10,000's column just stay the same, and the game will not re-set. It feels like it's right there in front of me, but I just can't figure it out!
Thanks for that! Worn contacts on the circuit boards makes sense. I cleaned the 1,000's contacts. It seems odd to me that my Gulfstream doesn't have a circuit board on the 100 reel. Every other reel has a board with multiple contacts. The 100 reel only has a leaf switch. The switch seems right, when set at at zero.
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