(Topic ID: 92044)

Blinking bulbs in EM's

By PopBumperPete

9 years ago


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    #1 9 years ago

    Curious about blinking bulbs in the backbox of EM's
    Did they come from the factory already installed?
    Is there any rules regarding their placement, or just random?
    Did early SS games have them factory installed?

    Pete

    #2 9 years ago

    The Schematic usually indicates where they are. I've seen them for game over & the game name. I have them used in many EMs as well as a system 1.

    #3 9 years ago

    seems I still need to learn how to read the schematic properly

    #4 9 years ago

    Look closely, the ones I've looked at recently say it in English (FLASHING) on the schematic, now keep in mind I'm only familiar with Gottlieb.

    #5 9 years ago
    Quoted from btw75:

    Look closely, the ones I've looked at recently say it in English (FLASHING) on the schematic, now keep in mind I'm only familiar with Gottlieb.

    the only EM's I have are Gottlieb

    #6 9 years ago

    Most the of the Gottlieb schematics do not call out the flasher bulbs. Some do, but that's the exception.

    Instead, the bulb socket itself is the indicator. Most of the sockets on the backbox panel are recessed. The original 44s have straight edges, so the bayonet bases and part of the bulbs can fit sub-flush with the surrounding wood surface.

    The sockets that are intended to have the flasher bulbs (455s) sit flush with the wood surface instead. The 455s have a large 'globe' style glass, so the bulb part can't go sub-flush like the 44s (and 47s) can.

    The Game Over socket is a pretty safe bet to be a flasher. Look at that socket compared to the others and the difference can be seen. But on the schematic the Game Over light isn't indicated as being a 'flasher' (usually).

    #7 9 years ago

    I have put them where the game name is, but that is about all I have added. I found a box of blinker bulbs in a game before, so I added them, and liked them so I got more for other games.

    #8 9 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Most the of the Gottlieb schematics do not call out the flasher bulbs. Some do, but that's the exception.
    Instead, the bulb socket itself is the indicator. Most of the sockets on the backbox panel are recessed. The original 44s have straight edges, so the bayonet bases and part of the bulbs can fit sub-flush with the surrounding wood surface.
    The sockets that are intended to have the flasher bulbs (455s) sit flush with the wood surface instead. The 455s have a large 'globe' style glass, so the bulb part can't go sub-flush like the 44s (and 47s) can.
    The Game Over socket is a pretty safe bet to be a flasher. Look at that socket compared to the others and the difference can be seen. But on the schematic the Game Over light isn't indicated as being a 'flasher' (usually).

    Thanks
    I will take a closer look at my games

    #9 9 years ago

    There are no indicators where blinkers are supposed to go in any of my games, but I still want them. So my personal preference is not to use them in such quantity to create dark unlit spots in any given moment. So I first fill all sockets with regular #44's and see how it looks all lit up. Then I experiment by removing a bulb here and there and observing how it looks.

    If the area grows dark then I don't want a blinker there. If I can't really tell that I've removed a bulb then that's a candidate for a blinker. Again, that's my own personal preference.

    #10 9 years ago

    As Dirt explained, that is true for Gottlieb. In fact, I was just working on a Jumping Jack and not only is the socket a different length, but it was also different construction. One had the visual spring style center contact and the other had the smooth plunger style center post.

    Not sure when but either Bally and or Williams actually cut a cone shape recess around the sockets on the lamps they planned/wanted to put 455's in. So, its pretty easy to figure that type of back head out.

    #11 9 years ago

    i have a Flash with a couple blinkers in as well. I don't remember seeing any special call out for them.
    very interesting about the gottlieb sockets and game over spot. i am guessing for most wedge heads? Yeah the black hole has them behind the spinning disc, and i don't remember seeing any marking for those either.

    #12 9 years ago

    Flying Carpet specifies one behind the genie lamp.

    #13 9 years ago

    I thought we used them to highlight the "shapeliness" of the babe

    #14 9 years ago

    Bally and Williams used blinkers for the name.
    In Bally machines you can put them anywhere you like, Williams used a different approach (see picture)blinker.jpgblinker.jpg
    Most early s.s. did not use blinkers, there are a few I know did not use blinkers off factory.

    Bally:
    Champ
    Old Chicago
    Freedom
    Night Rider only the two lights on the police car
    Captain Fantastic on the pinball machine
    FMBC only the Bally logo

    But as said here before: it's a matter of personal taste.

    #15 9 years ago

    I have installed 6 or so 455 on the space ship on CE3K, had it loos great.

    1 week later
    #16 9 years ago

    i have owned a space mission that i have added 455 blinkers behind all 5 of the white stars on the bg.

    #17 9 years ago

    Gottliebs with a "Last Ball In Play" will want them there, because that light will burn out quickly if you don't do it. It comes off the coil circuit with a resistor knocking down the voltage.

    #18 9 years ago

    Whatever looks right for a blinking bulb is where I put them. I use them to enhance, not overwhelm.

    Generally the name on the Backglass gets a couple flashers if not all. Game Over light in Gottliebs gets them as well.

    Quoted from SteveFury:

    Then I experiment by removing a bulb here and there and observing how it looks.
    If the area grows dark then I don't want a blinker there. If I can't really tell that I've removed a bulb then that's a candidate for a blinker.

    That's what I do as well, unless it is the area of the name of the game, which is OK to have all flashers as to me invokes the early attract mode for an EM.

    Ken

    #19 9 years ago

    great thread!! i spend way too much time considering which bulbs i want to be flashers ... !

    I usually have two or three spread out in my wedge heads

    c37 for instance, one behind the test tube blondes chest, gives a heart beat effect ...

    fun stuff

    cheers, Ron

    #20 9 years ago

    C37 is supposed to have one at the top of the thermometer (at least as intended from the factory).

    #21 9 years ago

    i'm crappy enough at it that i rarely get the ribbon all the way, so that one doesn't lite very often !!

    #22 9 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Most the of the Gottlieb schematics do not call out the flasher bulbs. Some do, but that's the exception.
    Instead, the bulb socket itself is the indicator. Most of the sockets on the backbox panel are recessed. The original 44s have straight edges, so the bayonet bases and part of the bulbs can fit sub-flush with the surrounding wood surface.
    The sockets that are intended to have the flasher bulbs (455s) sit flush with the wood surface instead. The 455s have a large 'globe' style glass, so the bulb part can't go sub-flush like the 44s (and 47s) can.
    The Game Over socket is a pretty safe bet to be a flasher. Look at that socket compared to the others and the difference can be seen. But on the schematic the Game Over light isn't indicated as being a 'flasher' (usually).

    Thanks. Never realized that about EM backboxes. Learn something new everyday in this hobby..

    #23 9 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Most the of the Gottlieb schematics do not call out the flasher bulbs. Some do, but that's the exception.
    Instead, the bulb socket itself is the indicator. Most of the sockets on the backbox panel are recessed. The original 44s have straight edges, so the bayonet bases and part of the bulbs can fit sub-flush with the surrounding wood surface.
    The sockets that are intended to have the flasher bulbs (455s) sit flush with the wood surface instead. The 455s have a large 'globe' style glass, so the bulb part can't go sub-flush like the 44s (and 47s) can.
    The Game Over socket is a pretty safe bet to be a flasher. Look at that socket compared to the others and the difference can be seen. But on the schematic the Game Over light isn't indicated as being a 'flasher' (usually).

    Dirt has it exactly right when it comes to Gottlieb. The sockets for the blinkers are actually a different length to allow for the bulb to not be sunken.

    Williams counterbores the wood do the round bulbs will fit. Someone shows a great picture of that above.

    Both of these revelations can straight from Steve one day when I was ordering parts.

    For what it's worth you can put them just about anywhere ona Williams by squeezing them in, but the counterbored holes are where the designers thought they should go.

    2 years later
    #24 7 years ago

    Inside backbox of Card Whiz
    OK, as you can see, one socket (center right) is not like the others
    This is the socket meant for a flashing bulb

    As you can also see, the bulb is not part of the GI string. It is on the same line as the GAME OVER lamp
    So the flashing bulb only comes on when the game is over and does not distract you when you are playing

    this oneA (resized).jpgthis oneA (resized).jpg

    7 months later
    #25 6 years ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    Gottliebs with a "Last Ball In Play" will want them there, because that light will burn out quickly if you don't do it. It comes off the coil circuit with a resistor knocking down the voltage.

    EMsInKC
    I have noticed that atleast one under-playfield light (lights special) in my Gottlieb "300" eats 47 light bulbs. I am wondering if it is intended to be a flasher. Do these flasher sockets use more juice?

    #26 6 years ago
    Quoted from chaskett:

    EMsInKC
    I have noticed that atleast one under-playfield light (lights special) in my Gottlieb "300" eats 47 light bulbs. I am wondering if it is intended to be a flasher. Do these flasher sockets use more juice?

    There are no flashers in EMs. Blinking lamps, yes, but not flashers. They are all 6.5V lamps in EMs. Probably crappy lamps or vibration from a nearby stepper or relay causing the filament to fail.

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from schudel5:

    There are no flashers in EMs. Blinking lamps, yes, but not flashers.

    What about the rest of the thread that mentions where they go and the schematics that mention where flashers go?

    #28 6 years ago
    Quoted from Briehl:

    What about the rest of the thread that mentions where they go and the schematics that mention where flashers go?

    Not sure what you are getting at. There are no flashers in an EM. Flashers didn't get used in games until Flash in 1979 which was after EMs were pretty much gone. The lamps that blink on and off are blinking bulbs and just use a thermal bimetalic switch in the filament to just make them...well...blink. They still use 6.5V that all the other lamps use and not 12V that flashers use to...well...flash.

    As far as where blinking bulbs were used, I don't think there was any documentation as to what type of lamp went where. If you look at post #14 from 3 years ago that's about the only tell-tale indication of where a blinking bulb went because the globe is a spherical shape. Otherwise, it's just put them where you like...if they fit.

    #29 6 years ago

    Hi chaskett
    Your Gottlieb "300" eats 47 lights bulbs. schudel5 refers to post-14, looking there and reading a bit "around" - and I see post-17 --- a good remark of EMsInKC --- lamps that are run on the 25Volts-side - and an resistor was added by Gottlieb. I show a snippet from "300" - and, Yes - also such a wiring. So mount on the "Specials Lights" some 455 blinking bulbs. Greetings Rolf

    #30 6 years ago
    Quoted from schudel5:

    The lamps that blink on and off are blinking bulbs and just use a thermal bimetalic switch in the filament to just make them...well...blink.

    Blinking would be the correct term, but Gottlieb labels them (sometimes) on the Schematic as a Flasher, or Flashing Bulb.

    #31 6 years ago

    Hi
    and here is the snippet

    0Gtb-300-Work-12 (resized).jpg0Gtb-300-Work-12 (resized).jpg

    #32 6 years ago
    Quoted from schudel5:

    Not sure what you are getting at. There are no flashers in an EM. Flashers didn't get used in games until Flash in 1979 which was after EMs were pretty much gone. The lamps that blink on and off are blinking bulbs and just use a thermal bimetalic switch in the filament to just make them...well...blink. They still use 6.5V that all the other lamps use and not 12V that flashers use to...well...flash.
    As far as where blinking bulbs were used, I don't think there was any documentation as to what type of lamp went where. If you look at post #14 from 3 years ago that's about the only tell-tale indication of where a blinking bulb went because the globe is a spherical shape. Otherwise, it's just put them where you like...if they fit.

    The schematic for our funland calls for a flasher bulb behind the bullseye target, but I must have no idea what I'm talking about...

    #33 6 years ago
    Quoted from Briehl:

    The schematic for our funland calls for a flasher bulb behind the bullseye target, but I must have no idea what I'm talking about...

    Neat. Then put one in there. Regardless of what Gottlieb called them they do not flash, they blink.

    #34 6 years ago

    potAtoe
    potaato

    #35 6 years ago
    Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

    Hi
    and here is the snippet

    rolf_martin_062 You're the bee's knees! Thanks for interpreting, investigating, and informing!

    #36 6 years ago
    Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

    Hi chaskett
    Your Gottlieb "300" eats 47 lights bulbs. schudel5 refers to post-14, looking there and reading a bit "around" - and I see post-17 --- a good remark of EMsInKC --- lamps that are run on the 25Volts-side - and an resistor was added by Gottlieb. I show a snippet from "300" - and, Yes - also such a wiring. So mount on the "Specials Lights" some 455 blinking bulbs. Greetings Rolf

    On Gottlieb games that use a resistor to drop the relay voltage to 6.3 volt lamp voltage, are designed around the current draw of a #44 lamp. That is why your #47s burn up.

    Also, do not attempt to replace them with LEDs as they too will fry! Unless you open them up and replace the current limiting resistor for 28v. Which will probably be too big for the base.

    #37 6 years ago
    Quoted from CactusJack:

    On Gottlieb games that use a resistor to drop the relay voltage to 6.3 volt lamp voltage, are designed around the current draw of a #44 lamp. That is why your #47s burn up.
    Also, do not attempt to replace them with LEDs as they too will fry! Unless you open them up and replace the current limiting resistor for 28v. Which will probably be too big for the base.

    CactusJack
    Yeah, but its only the "lights special" that burns out bulbs. Its the only socket where th bulb is visibly burning much brighter than all the others under the playfield. I suspect the "special when lit" light is the same, but not as noticeable as its not on very often.

    #38 6 years ago
    Quoted from schudel5:

    Neat. Then put one in there. Regardless of what Gottlieb called them they do not flash, they blink.

    My flashlight doesn't flash!

    #39 6 years ago
    Quoted from chaskett:

    CactusJack
    Yeah, but its only the "lights special" that burns out bulbs. Its the only socket where th bulb is visibly burning much brighter than all the others under the playfield. I suspect the "special when lit" light is the same, but not as noticeable as its not on very often.

    well, the roll over button light is the "lights special" light as shown in Rolf's schematic snippet above. So you must use a #44 there. Like you said, the Special itself is not on for as long a time.

    #40 6 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    My flashlight doesn't flash!

    The reason they were called flashlights, is back in the olden days,
    when batteries were relatively hard to come by and expensive,
    one would only turn on their "torchlight" for moments at a time to illuminate what was ahead,
    just enough to allow one to see the path ~10 yards ahead so you would not trip,
    then one would flash the light on again for a few seconds to see the path for the next 10 yards etc.
    Remember when those old flashlights used to come with that secondary button next to the on/off switch
    to momentarily flash the light.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    Added over 6 years ago: Should have added that batteries were not very efficient in the early days and not last long,
    thus the need to conserve to preserve their life.

    #41 6 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    My flashlight doesn't flash!

    Great! Now I'm going to drive on the Parkway and park in my driveway.

    #42 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinwiztom:

    The reason they were called flashlights, is back in the olden days,
    when batteries were relatively hard to come by and expensive,
    one would only turn on their "torchlight" for moments at a time to illuminate what was ahead,
    just enough to allow one to see the path ~10 yards ahead so you would not trip,
    then one would flash the light on again for a few seconds to see the path for the next 10 yards etc.
    Remember when those old flashlights used to come with that secondary button next to the on/off switch
    to momentarily flash the light.

    I thought the flash button was for Morse code use.

    #43 6 years ago
    Quoted from DennisDodel:

    I thought the flash button was for Morse code use.

    100%. Plus the flashlight posted above would of also came with 2 coloured lenses, red and green.

    #44 6 years ago
    Quoted from CactusJack:

    well, the roll over button light is the "lights special" light as shown in Rolf's schematic snippet above. So you must use a #44 there. Like you said, the Special itself is not on for as long a time.

    Correct.

    I went through this with my Ship Ahoy for the spinner lamp.

    Even with the correct 44 bulb would see 7.5 volts. I ended up changing the resistance value so the voltage dropped down and the lamps last a lot longer.

    #45 6 years ago

    Hi
    sometimes at a time there are several "loose related" topics in pinside --- and a finding can be posted "there" and "here" and "somewhere else".
    The following I actually / already had posted in another topic --- but to mention it here is also helpful:

    (((Funny - I was looking for snippets of schematics to my Gtb Ice Revue and stumbled over))) Here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-over-light they also talk about resistors. I am not an electricien so I do not know - interesting is (the whole topic and) post-8, POST-12, post-15 and on.
    Greetings Rolf

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