(Topic ID: 193298)

Blind rivets, what tools do you guys use?


By SarverSystems

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by zimjoe
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago

    I'm not sure I am using the proper terminology, but I am referring to the rivets that hold the plastic faces of standup targets to the switches, metal brackets to ramps, etc...

    I recently had to replace a ramp and it required me to reuse the old metal mounting bracket. I drilled out the rivets, but I had no way to reattach the rivets. I ended up putting screws in, which worked, but I'd prefer to use rivets.

    I do see a few options out there, but what works best? Pros and Cons?

    #2 1 year ago

    My rivet press.

    1499866320057-139373062 (resized).jpg

    #3 1 year ago

    Here's how to make your own rivet tool, any size you want almost free. Take a old drill bit, cut/grind it off and insert it into your drill. Hold it up to your grinder and while spinning the drill form the tip. Take your part/rivet and place on a piece of hard plastic or something that won't scratch and tap the tool to flair the rivet.

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    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from Jjsmooth:

    My rivet press.

    Handy little arbor press!!

    Would you be willing to elaborate on your
    punch/die setup mounted in it?

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from Jjsmooth:

    My rivet press.

    I just made one of these out of a Harbor Freight Arbor press and a couple squeezer dies from here http://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/riveting-accessories/riveting-squeezer-dies-2/. I don't remember which ones, I can check when I get home.

    #6 1 year ago

    For the blind rivets I use one of the Braille insertion tools, works like a charm.

    #7 1 year ago

    http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

    Expensive, but works awesome. My wife bought me this for Christmas a few years back.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from LOTR_breath:

    Expensive, but works awesome.

    I think he was out of stock when I needed one so I made my own. My total cost was around $90 and it took me a hour or two not counting waiting on shipping.

    While I found a bunch of references to converting arbor presses to rivet presses, I couldn't find instructions on how to make one. So I took a bunch of pictures and started an Instructable a while back. This thread inspired me to finish writing it. It's not a great Intructable, but it doesn't have to be; the process is pretty simple. https://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-Tubular-Rivet-Press-From-an-Arbor-Press/

    #9 1 year ago

    pinrestore.com sells a kit to modify a harbor freight arbor press.
    He did a great job.

    #10 1 year ago

    I really need something portable.

    I love the arbor press idea, and I will probably do that for the shop.

    Anything that fits in a toolbox?

    #12 1 year ago

    I got this rivet punch:
    amazon.com link »
    I didn't want to buy an expensive press for the Very few times I need to change a target face. Just tap with a hammer.

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from brenna98:

    I got this rivet punch:
    amazon.com link »
    I didn't want to buy an expensive press for the Very few times I need to change a target face. Just tap with a hammer.

    Great! I had been looking at that tool (a "sash balance rivet setting tool", which doesn't sound_ like it would work, but sure looks about right). I tried to order the official hand-punch from the company that makes the actual rivets, but they recently discontinued the tool, so I was SOL. I ended up having to use a combination of two other punches: A center-punch and a pin-punch, the first to spread the collar of the rivet, and the second to flatten the collar down. That worked, but imperfectly (the collar ended up with some cracks).

    I have ordered this tool from Amazon, and will try it out: Thanks for the confirmation!

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from brenna98:

    I got this rivet punch:
    amazon.com link »
    I didn't want to buy an expensive press for the Very few times I need to change a target face. Just tap with a hammer.

    brenna98 - what do you use on the backside when you hammer it?

    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from jeffc:

    brenna98 - what do you use on the backside when you hammer it?

    A piece of wood or other surface with a slight bit of give is adequate: The rivets are brass or aluminum, and are very soft, so you really don't need the "proper" female die for the head-side. That's my experience anyways.

    #16 1 year ago

    Nice, I'm going to try out that punch.

    #17 1 year ago

    The backside of thin mouse pad works. A little support so it doesn't move around or scratch.

    #19 1 year ago

    Blind rivets == pop rivets, BTW. You don't mean those.

    You can use a rivet punch and something to back it and do a reasonable enough job...no need for an arbor press. For simple brass/aluminum/other soft rivets you'll find in pins, There are cheap tools on Amazon and eBay for leatherworking that should work reasonably well:

    amazon.com link »

    (Put the face of the rivet into the anvil, carefully flare the back with a punch. Stop before you break any plastic

    I typically use an AR stake swivel rivet tool...looks similar to this, but didn't cost me $50 (think it was about $15 years ago):

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/staking-tools/ar-15-m16-sling-swivel-staking-tool-prod40894.aspx

    You could probably make something similar out of a $3 C clamp if you've got the patience to grind/dremel both sides.

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from Majdi:

    Blind rivets == pop rivets, BTW. You don't mean those.
    You can use a rivet punch and something to back it and do a reasonable enough job...no need for an arbor press. For simple brass/aluminum/other soft rivets you'll find in pins, There are cheap tools on Amazon and eBay for leatherworking that should work reasonably well:
    amazon.com link »
    (Put the face of the rivet into the anvil, carefully flare the back with a punch. Stop before you break any plastic
    I typically use an AR stake swivel rivet tool...looks similar to this, but didn't cost me $50 (think it was about $15 years ago):
    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/staking-tools/ar-15-m16-sling-swivel-staking-tool-prod40894.aspx
    You could probably make something similar out of a $3 C clamp if you've got the patience to grind/dremel both sides.

    Sure, you could do these methods, but I believe the whole point of the press is to apply gentle even pressure to cleanly and evenly install tubular rivet with reduced risk of cracking, breaking pieces, or having loose rivet.

    Considering the cost or rarity of a lot of ramps etc, I personally would opt for a press option if possible. I know some people have good results with a punch as well....but the "I broke xxx..." stories are the ones that concern me.

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from pacmanretro:

    Sure, you could do these methods, but I believe the whole point of the press is to apply gentle even pressure to cleanly and evenly install tubular rivet with reduced risk of cracking, breaking pieces, or having loose rivet.

    This is why I use a press as well. I could just hand peen stand up targets without concern, but some ramps and plastic pieces cost more than a press.

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