(Topic ID: 287300)

Blew a bridge rectifier in Dirty Harry trying to fix magnet

By Magicmike0

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

I posted in DH club, but that was probably the wrong place. Figured I’d try here.
I screwed up today. Hoping somebody can point me the right direction. I blew BR1(bridge rectifier) on the fliptronic board in my Dirty Harry. I had the board loose and then powered on(big no no) I believe the back of the board may have been resting on a screw? I saw a spark and shut it off. Turned the board around and the rectifier left black places.
Now I have vertical lines in the DMD and it knocked out most of the sound. I was trying to investigate the back of the board because I’ve been having magnet issues. That board gets the plug for the magnet. Previous owner told me that the board may be bad, because the magnet worked sometimes. Last time it stopped working I simply unplugged it under the playfield and plugged it back in. It has worked for about a year or more. Anyway this post isn’t about the magnet, although I would love to finally find a permanent fix for it.
It’s more about asking if I should just replace BR1 or go with a new fliptronic 2 board? Do you guys think it would fix my DMD and sound either way I decide to go? I’m sure the blown BR caused all the new trouble I’m facing now. Once I replace the BR or the board, I’ll have to figure out the other issues. Hey...I’m trying, but tend to create more problems while learning from my dumb mistakes.
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#4 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The bridge may be fine, I believe the pin that you shorted is your transformer AC and is fused through F112. I would test it but certainly clan the carbo scoring and reflow solder to it.
Inspect D9 and U4 on the top side of the board.
I would remove both power and the ribbon cable from the Fliptronics board to see if there is any change.

So far I’m getting error for F1, F3, F5 EOS and still broken magnet. I reseated ribbon cables and the DMD and sound are back so far.
I tested the bridge and it seems fine. I was also checking continuity where the board was a little charred.
So far game plays fine. Not sure what the EOS error is. I haven’t had time to check fuses, or trace back anymore damage. I can’t tell but maybe the left flipper feels a little weaker. Hopefully I got lucky.
I still am not getting any reading on the magnet yellow grey wire. That was the problem that got me here. Haha.
I went ahead and ordered a new RD fliptronic II board.
I will clean and inspect further. What’s the best way to clean that scoring?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Dent00:

If you decide that you need a new bridge rectifier board, you can get one here:
They are not cheap.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-15028_A-15472-1&Category_Code=

I ordered a Rottendog board. It was a little cheaper. Well, before shipping. Lol.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

End of stroke switch - related to the fliptronics board.
LTG : )

Hey LTG! Always nice to see you hop in to help! I see you on the forums quiet a bit and we’ve probably talked many times. Haha.

So, hopefully replacing that Fliptronics board will fix that? I hope it’s that easy.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Hope that you get it worked out. Nice to see someone local!

Brewchap! We probably know some of the same peeps since your local. Cool! Or maybe I already know you. Haha.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Not sure what you are expecting to see there, 50V?
The 50V for the magnet originated from the Fliptronics board and leaves on J907-8 where it lands on one side of the magnet, this is the same 50V used everywhere on the fliptronics board so if its missing then the fuse, fuse holder, or header pin is the problem.
SIDE NOTE: all of the Red wires on J907 are identical except for the fuses they go through, I have seen these miswired and the game will work fine until a fuse blows as the fuse list will not match up to the correct device.
This 50V then goes back to the Fliptronics board at J907-3 where it is turned on and off by Q1, via a signal received from CPU across the data lines on the ribbon cable. If you are missing 50V at J902-3, one of 2 things is happening:
1) You have a break in the wire/connection to the magnet
2) The magnet is itself is bad
3) You have a blown fuse on the fliptronics board.
To verify all playfield wiring:
With the machine OFF measure the resistance between the Red-Gry wire at J907-8 and the Yellow-Gray at J902-3, this measurement should only be slightly higher than that of the magnet itself. Depending on your meter leads, you may have to leave the connectors on and lift them off the board high enough to get your meter on the header pins.
If all of this checks out the most likely cause of the problem is the ribbon cable, although it could be a component on the Fliptronics board, this is far less likely.[quoted image]

Woah! Thanks for the detailed info!!!! I got some digging to do!
I did unplug the bottom right connectors from the board and replugged them. Maybe I didn’t get them in or now they are shot from the blast. It does seem like the vertical plugs (J901,J907) above those you mentioned, on the right side of the board, are on crooked and I can’t even force it to go all the way in. Both of them. I made sure they are on correct but for some reason the tops of them won’t push all the way in. I know that’s probably a different problem if it all, but may be worth mentioning. I will make sure and look super duper close next time I get a chance to get in there. Could be off by one.

#13 3 years ago

Hey Pin_Guy could this be a problem? Looks like inside the connector on that red/grey wire, the pin is bent up instead of spread out. I got some crimpers for Christmas. May be about time to order some new connections and give em a go.

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#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I've never seen that before, great find!

I actually just took the board out as we speak, and in doing so I did notice as you said, I missed the J906 haha. Going to try and clean up the board and re-flow the legs, put it back in and test it. I actually got my rotten dog board now, but want to test this one first.
Edit...
Got the board soldered, EOS plugged correctly, put back in to test but still no luck. I’m dumb at this and it shows, but Still digging and having fun in the process.
Last edit... need to regroup lol.
Replaced board with rottendog board just for heck of it and still go the same errors... check the 3 EOS and magnet is broken.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Inspect D9 and U4 on the top side of the board.

Also never uploaded these. Sorry. I’m going back and reviewing all the great advice and forgot to show you these.
Plus I measured the resistance between red and grey and yellow grey wires. I’m still learning, but I start out with 1 . and when I touch the leads to the header pins it jumps to a big number and lands back at 1 .

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#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The schematic linked in post 11 contains the connections for all 4 EOS switches at J206; keep in mind that this is a generic diagram and all switches may or may not exist, the important one is the black ground wire, if that's not connected none of the EOS switches will work.
According you your game manual, only 3 of the EOS switches are used, so you will only have 4 wires connected.
[quoted image]
These are direct ground switches, to test them remove J906 from the fliptronics board and go into switch edge test. Get a small jumper wire and one at a time jumper the ground connection at J906-6 to the header pins at J906-1, J906-3, and J906-4, all three switches should close when the jumper is in place. If these to not operate, verify all connections on your ribbon cable are seated properly, its easy to get this off by a row.

Verified ribbons and tried this. Not setting off the switches. Should I be shoving that jumper straight into the end of the plug j906-6? That’s what I’m doing. Then touching other end straight to the pins. Hope that’s what you mean.

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#20 3 years ago

Also getting this now too.

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The drive transistor for your LR flipper hold is stuck on; are you seeing that with both your boards, or just the new RD board?

I haven’t tried putting the old board back in yet, but I will give a try tomorrow. It’s a new problem since installing the rottendog.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

No these should be jumpered at the header as shown below:[quoted image]

Here’s the jumper test. I held it on J906-6 and touched 1,3,and 4. I notice on 4 it reads 5 on the DMD?

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The drive transistor for your LR flipper hold is stuck on; are you seeing that with both your boards, or just the new RD board?

Put the old board in and not getting the sticking LR flipper. Also at least the magnet error is back. The RD board wasn’t even reading errors.
However with that being said, I can’t understand why I’m not getting anymore errors besides the Broken magnet when the UR and LR flipper aren’t moving in solenoid hold test. Plus the left loop gate isn’t working. I’m sure it’s all got to do with the short. I know one step at a time, but just trying to squeeze in all the info I can on my day off for you to review at your convenience.
Thanks so much for helping me through this mess @pin_guy
Here’s 2 more vids.

#30 3 years ago

Thanks for all the advice guys.
I’ll get some pics of the board up soon. Just so we are clear, the eos switches under the playfield connected to each flipper? Or you guys mean the board near the left flipper? I’m sorry I’m trying to look at the matrix and understand it. I know that’s a dumb question. I was checking all the orange wires on the flippers and they are all connected but doesn’t mean they didn’t fry somewhere in between with the short...not sure how likely that is.
I do want to mention this. One ribbon cable looks rough. Probably needs replaced. It’s the one I have to adjust when the DMD gets vertical lines. I just reseat it. Also, While I was under the pf earlier, I noticed some white powdery substance on the wires near the left flipper button. I though to myself, has that always been there? Could very well be where the problem lies perhaps? I didn’t get time to dig any further. I was in the middle of looking at it and had to stop. It was my gf’s birthday(yesterday)and we are out shopping and about to hit up some sushi since Valentines is over.

#32 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Yes

With the power off I hope.

Maybe, the ground is orange and runs to a different plug on the fliptronic board so clean it up and see if it helps.
Also do you have the manual?

Yeah. I turn it off before adjusting the ribbon.
I do have a printed manual yep!
Can I read it? Well,, I try. Just got home gonna investigate a little more.

#33 3 years ago

I tried chasing that orange wire down from J906 from back box to the first flipper it came too(UR) it seems ok. Only part I can’t see is inside the flex tubing in back of the lower cabinet. I pulled on it from inside the back box and found the bundle where it came out in bottom of the cab, then chased it to UR flipper.
Did you want pictures of the new or old board? Or both? Lol

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Just to add the left gate you said wasn’t working during test won’t. It is not connected to any switches or wires. The left loop switch is 71 and it’s a rollover switch.

Shouldn’t it open on super loops though? I was just throwing the ball around and got to that mode and it wouldn’t open.

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Old board please, I don't work on RD boards.

Here’s some of the front. I’ll have to take the board off again tomorrow. The ribbon is kinda in the way. It’s a jumbled mess in there. I’ve never had to get in there much and if this wiring isn’t originally this messy, the previous owner(s) did a number in it. If ya need that ribbon cable out of the way, I’ll add some more tomorrow bud. Yeah her bday is Valentine’s Day. Lol. Time to get off of here again and hang with her a bit more. Thanks guys!

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#43 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I've seen enough, that board looks pristine

So the board looks okay. That’s cool. So I guess I still got some crazy wiring to track down for the flippers? I mean I’m not getting a flipper EOS error anymore, but the test mode is throwing me off. Wonder why they won’t raise on the hold test? Maybe I need to go back and re-read something haha.
What would you suggest now? Getting the board repaired and maybe trying new ribbons? Check those areas you highlighted for the magnet?
I spent 100.00 on the RD board thinking it’d solve my problems. But it doesn’t like that LR flipper coil, or something doesn’t. Thanks for labeling that board for me btw! Youdaguy!

Quoted from bssbllr:

I noticed you responded to topkat thread with his magnet issues which he got resolved by switching the security chip. Were you able to try the security chip yet.

I have been DM topkat about that chip, yeah. Not ordered it... yet. Also I forgot how super loops worked. For some reason I thought I could hit it either way, but my magnet isn’t working so I forgot right side catches it! Haha.
So left loop is just there to reject from the right and feed the pops, and allow ball to travel from the left side of it. Gotcha.
Man I miss playing this game working...lol

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:The hold coil isnt strong enough to pull the flipper up, only to hold it. If you are in the game, and hit the flipper does it stay up, or fall back down?

It holds in game

2 weeks later
#47 3 years ago

Still at it. Haha.
I got my RD board repaired for free from K’s arcade. Keith with K’s said it Ended up having a bad bridge directly from RD.
All seems fine with the game now, except the magnet still not working. I want to try re-pinning J902. I have been looking for video explanations on how to do this particular type of connector but have only found ones showing every other type. Any suggestions on tools and how to’s on this type of connector?

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#49 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

It’s an IDC connector. You need a punch down tool. It basically pushes the wire down and the connector cuts into the insulation making contact with the wire. They have different sizes so do some research. Prices vary on different sites.
[quoted image]

Thanks again @bssbllr! Now I know where to start. I didn’t even know the different names of the connectors. Can I replace that type of connector with the ones where it just slides into the back? Or best to keep it as is?

#53 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is the best tool for the job:
https://www.pinballlife.com/pancon-156-idc-termination-tool.html
It's made for manufacturing cable harnesses using the original PanCon connectors that were used by all pinball manufactured back in the day. The connector locks into the tool and easily snaps into position for every pin in the connector.
Its a little spendy but IMO its worth every penny.
Unfortunately finding the original PanCon connectors hese days it the hard part.

Hmm. I may have to look into it. I just got a crimping tool for Christmas but it look nothing close to this bad boy.
Thanks my friend.

#54 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

I would keep it the same IMO but some would disagree. Here is a picture of mine but it was for G.I. I bought a new connector and the tool. Press down on a flat surface till the wire is pushed all the way in. I am a novice and it was my first attempt. This plug will be easy for you. [quoted image]

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10818-13

Will this work as a replacement connector for J902? It doesn’t match the part # in the manual (5791-10862-13) so probably not huh?

#60 3 years ago

Placed an order with Marco. After talking with one of the reps, I decided to just go with some molex connectors. I already have a crimping tool I got for Christmas that I’ve seen used on YouTube. I’ve been dying to try mine out since I got it. Now I’m just waiting on the mail. Will post back once I get J902 and J907 re-pinned(probably this coming weekend when I get time)
Thanks again for all the suggestions and help my friends. It’s greatly appreciated. I have 3 pins and they are all sick right now. Haha. I can play Harry, but not the same without the magnet. My BSD is playable too, but the left pop bumper coil bracket broke last night. Snapped at the stop. My Stargate lower left sarcophagus gate opens and closes at the wrong times causing frustrating drains. I love working on them as much as playing them, but dang.

#61 3 years ago

Wellllllllll....
I re-pinned J902 and J907. I was almost positive that had to be it.
Didn’t help.
Next step? Hmmm. Maybe replace the coil?
Can’t wait til I am an laugh about this, because it’s getting frustrating. If I knew what I was doing. I’d probably pin pointed it long ago. Ha

#62 3 years ago

Wellllllllll....
I re-pinned J902 and J907. I was almost positive that had to be it.
Didn’t help. I’m pretty sure I did it right, because I’m not getting any errors and it’s flipping okay besides the magnet.
Next step? Hmmm. Maybe replace the coil?
Reviewing what I’ve tried.
I changed the bashed up core, changed the security chip, changed to a rottendog fliptronic board, and re-pinned those connectors. Might try to put the original board back in again. Here’s a dumb question. Can ribbon cables go in the wrong way? I’m not talking about being off by a pin, but I mean, do they have to go in a certain way? Since they usually connect between 2 boards, do the ends have to go to a specific board, is it possible to have them plugged in upside down or can they plug in either way, or as long as they are centered on correct pins on each board, they should be good? I have been wondering something else in all this. I can’t remember how the modes start in the HQ. What I mean is, it seems like every time I hit the HQ hole it seems to start or at least call out the ransom mode and shows the animation on the dmd, and then starts the HQ mission.
Does it always call out” the city does not pay in criminals”?...or whatever it says

Can’t wait til I am an laugh about this, because it’s getting frustrating. If I knew what I was doing. I’d probably pin pointed it long ago. Ha

#63 3 years ago

Also, maybe this will help. I know I’m not supposed to peel that tape around the coil, but if I’m going to replace it anyway, I thought I’d investigate. I’m not sure what it should look like, but this look kinda crazy. One wire from the connector plug goes straight to coil winding I guess? The other end comes from plug connector solders to another wire that loops around and comes back to the other end of the coil. Is this normal? Why doesn’t the one wire go straight to it like the other one? Why does it need to be soldered to a different piece of wire and wind through whatever that is under the wrapping in the last picture?
Sorry guys. I don’t mean to sound dumb. Just hoping these pictures will help you help me. Probably all normal, but I’m grasping for answers now. Lol

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#64 3 years ago

After all this time and money spent, I think I may have figured out the problem!
I think all I need is a new connector for the plug the magnet coil plugs into. The end with the red and yellow wire. Today as I was doing another test...I turned the game on, put it into test mode, and went to solenoid, then right loop magnet. I closed the coin door to turn the power on for magnet. I listened and heard nothing.
I was trying to squeeze my multimeter probe into the back side of the plug and as I did I heard the magnet pulse. Seems there was a bad connection in the yellow wire. I can push it a certain way and I hear the magnet, and when I let go it stops. COULD THIS FINALLY BE IT!!!!!!????! I need a new connector and the correct pins for it. I will order ASAP!!!!!!!
I should have figured, after all, the first temporary fix I ever did for this problem to begin with was unplug the coil and replugged it. I guess I got lucky and that wire got wiggled the right way the last time I tried that method. Now to find the part number for the plug and the correct pins. The pic is just to show the plug. I was wiggling it trying to push it in further with no luck haha. I finally cut it off. Was trying to get the pin out in hopes of reusing it.

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#65 3 years ago

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!
FIIIIINNNNNALLYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!
Magnet is working guys! Thanks for all the tips and support! It did end up being the most simple thing I lucked up and found in the last post. I re-pinned the connector for the yellow and red wire, and viola! Wish I’d done that a year ago when I first unplugged and plugged it back in fixing the issue for the longest time. I guess with the short I caused on the fliptronic board I was thinking it might had been a problem I’d really have to dig into and learn some things. I did learn a lot, thanks to all you guys that commented in here.
I hope this helps another Dirty Harry owner having magnet issues.
Thanks again to all you guys for your patience and knowledge.
That magnet can be tricky in a lot of ways, and a number of reasons could make it stop working. Just do a search for Dirty Harry pinball magnet broken, and see all the dead ends, and different success stories.
topkat had to replace the security chip
Others just leveled the magnet to the playfield
Others did different things to get it halfway working.
I took the long road but finally found the way home. Marked post as resolved! Thanks everyone!

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