Blew a bridge rectifier in Dirty Harry trying to fix magnet

I posted in DH club, but that was probably the wrong place. Figured I’d try here.
I screwed up today. Hoping somebody can point me the right direction. I blew BR1(bridge rectifier) on the fliptronic board in my Dirty Harry. I had the board loose and then powered on(big no no) I believe the back of the board may have been resting on a screw? I saw a spark and shut it off. Turned the board around and the rectifier left black places.
Now I have vertical lines in the DMD and it knocked out most of the sound. I was trying to investigate the back of the board because I’ve been having magnet issues. That board gets the plug for the magnet. Previous owner told me that the board may be bad, because the magnet worked sometimes. Last time it stopped working I simply unplugged it under the playfield and plugged it back in. It has worked for about a year or more. Anyway this post isn’t about the magnet, although I would love to finally find a permanent fix for it.
It’s more about asking if I should just replace BR1 or go with a new fliptronic 2 board? Do you guys think it would fix my DMD and sound either way I decide to go? I’m sure the blown BR caused all the new trouble I’m facing now. Once I replace the BR or the board, I’ll have to figure out the other issues. Hey...I’m trying, but tend to create more problems while learning from my dumb mistakes.
AD54D939-AB55-4377-A30A-3006F5A4FD13 (resized).jpegCAD4A6E9-8435-4691-97C3-5C66E27568DC (resized).jpegD3A1CA77-7848-4048-B0A2-36E98269087B (resized).jpeg

Post last edited 3 years ago: “Post started as one issue but evolved more into trying to find a solution for the magnet”

#2 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

The bridge may be fine, I believe the pin that you shorted is your transformer AC and is fused through F112. I would test it but certainly clan the carbon scoring and reflow solder to it.

Inspect D9 and U4 on the top side of the board.

I would remove both power and the ribbon cable from the Fliptronics board to see if there is any change.

#3 3 years ago

DLD

Dent00

Pinside member

Ridgeland, MS

5y 55,550 929 1 5

If you decide that you need a new bridge rectifier board, you can get one here:
They are not cheap.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-15028_A-15472-1&Category_Code=

#4 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The bridge may be fine, I believe the pin that you shorted is your transformer AC and is fused through F112. I would test it but certainly clan the carbo scoring and reflow solder to it.
Inspect D9 and U4 on the top side of the board.
I would remove both power and the ribbon cable from the Fliptronics board to see if there is any change.

So far I’m getting error for F1, F3, F5 EOS and still broken magnet. I reseated ribbon cables and the DMD and sound are back so far.
I tested the bridge and it seems fine. I was also checking continuity where the board was a little charred.
So far game plays fine. Not sure what the EOS error is. I haven’t had time to check fuses, or trace back anymore damage. I can’t tell but maybe the left flipper feels a little weaker. Hopefully I got lucky.
I still am not getting any reading on the magnet yellow grey wire. That was the problem that got me here. Haha.
I went ahead and ordered a new RD fliptronic II board.
I will clean and inspect further. What’s the best way to clean that scoring?

#5 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Dent00:
If you decide that you need a new bridge rectifier board, you can get one here:
They are not cheap.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-15028_A-15472-1&Category_Code=

I ordered a Rottendog board. It was a little cheaper. Well, before shipping. Lol.

#6 3 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Hopkins, MN

12y 191K 56,985 24 7

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Not sure what the EOS error is.

End of stroke switch - related to the fliptronics board.

LTG : )

#7 3 years ago

PAT

Brewchap

Pinside+ Frequent

7y 72,550 1,512 1

Hope that you get it worked out. Nice to see someone local!

#8 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from LTG:
End of stroke switch - related to the fliptronics board.
LTG : )

Hey LTG! Always nice to see you hop in to help! I see you on the forums quiet a bit and we’ve probably talked many times. Haha.

So, hopefully replacing that Fliptronics board will fix that? I hope it’s that easy.

#9 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Brewchap:
Hope that you get it worked out. Nice to see someone local!

Brewchap! We probably know some of the same peeps since your local. Cool! Or maybe I already know you. Haha.

#10 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
So far game plays fine. Not sure what the EOS error is.

These are for the End-of-Stroke (EOS) switches that tell the game your flipper is in the raised position (some games use these for other functions as well ). As LTG mentioned, these go through the Fliptronics board, more specifically they are connected to J906, the small connector at the bottom edge of the fliptronics board. I would pull it off, inspect it, and put it back on, or connect it if it was missed

#11 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
I still am not getting any reading on the magnet yellow grey wire. That was the problem that got me here.

Not sure what you are expecting to see there, 50V?

The 50V for the magnet originated from the Fliptronics board and leaves on J907-8 where it lands on one side of the magnet, this is the same 50V used everywhere on the fliptronics board so if its missing then the fuse, fuse holder, or header pin is the problem.

SIDE NOTE: all of the Red wires on J907 are identical except for the fuses they go through, I have seen these miswired and the game will work fine until a fuse blows as the fuse list will not match up to the correct device.

This 50V then goes back to the Fliptronics board at J907-3 where it is turned on and off by Q1, via a signal received from CPU across the data lines on the ribbon cable. If you are missing 50V at J902-3, one of 2 things is happening:

1) You have a break in the wire/connection to the magnet
2) The magnet is itself is bad
3) You have a blown fuse on the fliptronics board.

To verify all playfield wiring:
With the machine OFF measure the resistance between the Red-Gry wire at J907-8 and the Yellow-Gray at J902-3, this measurement should only be slightly higher than that of the magnet itself. Depending on your meter leads, you may have to leave the connectors on and lift them off the board high enough to get your meter on the header pins.

If all of this checks out the most likely cause of the problem is the ribbon cable, although it could be a component on the Fliptronics board, this is far less likely.

pasted_image (resized).png

#12 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
Not sure what you are expecting to see there, 50V?
The 50V for the magnet originated from the Fliptronics board and leaves on J907-8 where it lands on one side of the magnet, this is the same 50V used everywhere on the fliptronics board so if its missing then the fuse, fuse holder, or header pin is the problem.
SIDE NOTE: all of the Red wires on J907 are identical except for the fuses they go through, I have seen these miswired and the game will work fine until a fuse blows as the fuse list will not match up to the correct device.
This 50V then goes back to the Fliptronics board at J907-3 where it is turned on and off by Q1, via a signal received from CPU across the data lines on the ribbon cable. If you are missing 50V at J902-3, one of 2 things is happening:
1) You have a break in the wire/connection to the magnet
2) The magnet is itself is bad
3) You have a blown fuse on the fliptronics board.
To verify all playfield wiring:
With the machine OFF measure the resistance between the Red-Gry wire at J907-8 and the Yellow-Gray at J902-3, this measurement should only be slightly higher than that of the magnet itself. Depending on your meter leads, you may have to leave the connectors on and lift them off the board high enough to get your meter on the header pins.
If all of this checks out the most likely cause of the problem is the ribbon cable, although it could be a component on the Fliptronics board, this is far less likely.[quoted image]

Woah! Thanks for the detailed info!!!! I got some digging to do!
I did unplug the bottom right connectors from the board and replugged them. Maybe I didn’t get them in or now they are shot from the blast. It does seem like the vertical plugs (J901,J907) above those you mentioned, on the right side of the board, are on crooked and I can’t even force it to go all the way in. Both of them. I made sure they are on correct but for some reason the tops of them won’t push all the way in. I know that’s probably a different problem if it all, but may be worth mentioning. I will make sure and look super duper close next time I get a chance to get in there. Could be off by one.

#13 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Hey Pin_Guy could this be a problem? Looks like inside the connector on that red/grey wire, the pin is bent up instead of spread out. I got some crimpers for Christmas. May be about time to order some new connections and give em a go.

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#14 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

I've never seen that before, great find!

#15 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
I've never seen that before, great find!

I actually just took the board out as we speak, and in doing so I did notice as you said, I missed the J906 haha. Going to try and clean up the board and re-flow the legs, put it back in and test it. I actually got my rotten dog board now, but want to test this one first.
Edit...
Got the board soldered, EOS plugged correctly, put back in to test but still no luck. I’m dumb at this and it shows, but Still digging and having fun in the process.
Last edit... need to regroup lol.
Replaced board with rottendog board just for heck of it and still go the same errors... check the 3 EOS and magnet is broken.

#16 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
Inspect D9 and U4 on the top side of the board.

Also never uploaded these. Sorry. I’m going back and reviewing all the great advice and forgot to show you these.
Plus I measured the resistance between red and grey and yellow grey wires. I’m still learning, but I start out with 1 . and when I touch the leads to the header pins it jumps to a big number and lands back at 1 .

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#17 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

Inspection was to just see if they looked burned from having 50V jump to them and they look fine.

#18 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

The schematic linked in post 11 contains the connections for all 4 EOS switches at J206; keep in mind that this is a generic diagram and all switches may or may not exist, the important one is the black ground wire, if that's not connected none of the EOS switches will work.

According you your game manual, only 3 of the EOS switches are used, so you will only have 4 wires connected.

pasted_image (resized).png

These are direct ground switches, to test them remove J906 from the fliptronics board and go into switch edge test. Get a small jumper wire and one at a time jumper the ground connection at J906-6 to the header pins at J906-1, J906-3, and J906-4, all three switches should close when the jumper is in place. If these to not operate, verify all connections on your ribbon cable are seated properly, its easy to get this off by a row.

#19 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The schematic linked in post 11 contains the connections for all 4 EOS switches at J206; keep in mind that this is a generic diagram and all switches may or may not exist, the important one is the black ground wire, if that's not connected none of the EOS switches will work.
According you your game manual, only 3 of the EOS switches are used, so you will only have 4 wires connected.
[quoted image]
These are direct ground switches, to test them remove J906 from the fliptronics board and go into switch edge test. Get a small jumper wire and one at a time jumper the ground connection at J906-6 to the header pins at J906-1, J906-3, and J906-4, all three switches should close when the jumper is in place. If these to not operate, verify all connections on your ribbon cable are seated properly, its easy to get this off by a row.

Verified ribbons and tried this. Not setting off the switches. Should I be shoving that jumper straight into the end of the plug j906-6? That’s what I’m doing. Then touching other end straight to the pins. Hope that’s what you mean.

B63456DC-D882-4692-B5CF-834BDCB1C425 (resized).jpeg

#20 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Also getting this now too.

#21 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Should I be shoving that jumper straight into the end of the plug j906-6? That’s what I’m doing.

No these should be jumpered at the header as shown below:

pasted_image (resized).png

#22 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Also getting this now too.

The drive transistor for your LR flipper hold is stuck on; are you seeing that with both your boards, or just the new RD board?

#23 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The drive transistor for your LR flipper hold is stuck on; are you seeing that with both your boards, or just the new RD board?

I haven’t tried putting the old board back in yet, but I will give a try tomorrow. It’s a new problem since installing the rottendog.

#24 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
No these should be jumpered at the header as shown below:[quoted image]

Here’s the jumper test. I held it on J906-6 and touched 1,3,and 4. I notice on 4 it reads 5 on the DMD?

#25 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The drive transistor for your LR flipper hold is stuck on; are you seeing that with both your boards, or just the new RD board?

Put the old board in and not getting the sticking LR flipper. Also at least the magnet error is back. The RD board wasn’t even reading errors.
However with that being said, I can’t understand why I’m not getting anymore errors besides the Broken magnet when the UR and LR flipper aren’t moving in solenoid hold test. Plus the left loop gate isn’t working. I’m sure it’s all got to do with the short. I know one step at a time, but just trying to squeeze in all the info I can on my day off for you to review at your convenience.
Thanks so much for helping me through this mess Pin_Guy
Here’s 2 more vids.

#26 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
I notice on 4 it reads 5 on the DMD?

The EOS switch is a playfield wiring issue, since none of these are working I would suspect the orange (GND) wire is broken between J906 and the first EOS switch in the chain. Its possible all of the EOS switches could be misaligned or broke; however, this is highly improbable.

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
I notice on 4 it reads 5 on the DMD?

That is correct, the EOS switch connected to J906-4 is Flipper Grounded Switch F5; see below. ALL of the "flipper grounded switches" are handled by the Fliptronics board and thier status is sent to the CPU across the ribbon cable data lines.

pasted_image (resized).png

#27 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Put the old board in and not getting the sticking LR flipper. Also at least the magnet error is back. The RD board wasn’t even reading errors.

Unfortunately, its not uncommon to receive a RD board that has issues out of the box. When you get a chance, please post detailed pictures of both sides of your Fliptronics board as well as an image with all of your connectors hooked up to the fliptronics board.

#28 3 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

Just to add the left gate you said wasn’t working during test won’t. It is not connected to any switches or wires. The left loop switch is 71 and it’s a rollover switch.

#29 3 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The EOS switch is a playfield wiring issue, since none of these are working I would suspect the orange (GND) wire is broken between J906 and the first EOS switch in the chain.

Could run a long wire from the ground on j906 on fliptronic board to upper right flipper eos switch ground and test. Then try lower right flipper same way.

#30 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Thanks for all the advice guys.
I’ll get some pics of the board up soon. Just so we are clear, the eos switches under the playfield connected to each flipper? Or you guys mean the board near the left flipper? I’m sorry I’m trying to look at the matrix and understand it. I know that’s a dumb question. I was checking all the orange wires on the flippers and they are all connected but doesn’t mean they didn’t fry somewhere in between with the short...not sure how likely that is.
I do want to mention this. One ribbon cable looks rough. Probably needs replaced. It’s the one I have to adjust when the DMD gets vertical lines. I just reseat it. Also, While I was under the pf earlier, I noticed some white powdery substance on the wires near the left flipper button. I though to myself, has that always been there? Could very well be where the problem lies perhaps? I didn’t get time to dig any further. I was in the middle of looking at it and had to stop. It was my gf’s birthday(yesterday)and we are out shopping and about to hit up some sushi since Valentines is over.

#31 3 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Just so we are clear, the eos switches under the playfield connected to each flipper?

Yes

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
I do want to mention this. One ribbon cable looks rough. Probably needs replaced. It’s the one I have to adjust when the DMD gets vertical lines. I just reseat it.

With the power off I hope.

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Also, While I was under the pf earlier, I noticed some white powdery substance on the wires near the left flipper button. I though to myself, has that always been there? Could very well be where the problem lies perhaps?

Maybe, the ground is orange and runs to a different plug on the fliptronic board so clean it up and see if it helps.

Also do you have the manual?

#32 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from bssbllr:
Yes

With the power off I hope.

Maybe, the ground is orange and runs to a different plug on the fliptronic board so clean it up and see if it helps.
Also do you have the manual?

Yeah. I turn it off before adjusting the ribbon.
I do have a printed manual yep!
Can I read it? Well,, I try. Just got home gonna investigate a little more.

#33 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

I tried chasing that orange wire down from J906 from back box to the first flipper it came too(UR) it seems ok. Only part I can’t see is inside the flex tubing in back of the lower cabinet. I pulled on it from inside the back box and found the bundle where it came out in bottom of the cab, then chased it to UR flipper.
Did you want pictures of the new or old board? Or both? Lol

#34 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
It was my gf’s birthday(yesterday)and we are out shopping and about to hit up some sushi since Valentines is over.

Your GF was born on Valentines day? 1 present to cover both, that's a good deal!

#35 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

Quoted from bssbllr:
Maybe, the ground is orange and runs to a different plug on the fliptronic board so clean it up and see if it helps.

Also do you have the manual?

ALL of the pertinent information regarding the EOS switches is in this thread, there is nothing to these, they are simple on/off switches with no diodes that ground the input to the LM339 comparators on the Fliptronics board making the input go to zero.

#36 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Did you want pictures of the new or old board?

Old board please, I don't work on RD boards.

#37 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

All of the orange ground wires on the for the EOS switches originate from J906-6 ans just jump from 1 to another; there is no difference between this groound and the ground braid inside your cabinet, you should have close to 0 ohms between them as long as J906 is connected, all these switches do is allow that ground signal to feed back to the Fliptronics board in the same manner you did with the jumper wire.

You will notice the single wire on the other side of the switches are blabk/xxxx striped wires, these are standard colors across all BallyWilliams DMD games.

Photo of EOS switches from STTNG LL and LR flippers.
pasted_image (resized).png

#38 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from bssbllr:
Just to add the left gate you said wasn’t working during test won’t. It is not connected to any switches or wires. The left loop switch is 71 and it’s a rollover switch.

Shouldn’t it open on super loops though? I was just throwing the ball around and got to that mode and it wouldn’t open.

#39 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
Old board please, I don't work on RD boards.

Here’s some of the front. I’ll have to take the board off again tomorrow. The ribbon is kinda in the way. It’s a jumbled mess in there. I’ve never had to get in there much and if this wiring isn’t originally this messy, the previous owner(s) did a number in it. If ya need that ribbon cable out of the way, I’ll add some more tomorrow bud. Yeah her bday is Valentine’s Day. Lol. Time to get off of here again and hang with her a bit more. Thanks guys!

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#40 3 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Shouldn’t it open on super loops though? I was just throwing the ball around and got to that mode and it wouldn’t open.

Just took the glass off and tested. When in super loop the right loop will stop at magnet and feed upper flipper. The left loop will allow it to do a full loop. The magnet lite should be lit during super loop. That top left gate is to feed the pop bumpers. The top right gate is connected to a coil by a spring that opens and closes it.

#41 3 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

I noticed you responded to topkat thread with his magnet issues which he got resolved by switching the security chip. Were you able to try the security chip yet.

#42 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Here’s some of the front. I’ll have to take the board off again tomorrow. The ribbon is kinda in the way. It’s a jumbled mess in there.

I've seen enough, that board looks pristine; I don't think a single part has ever been replaced on it. This is a VERY resilient board; if there is a component on that board that failed I would recommend having it properly repaired, but my guess is that there isn't, or if there is it could be the driver for the magnet.

Getting to know your Fliptronics Board:
pasted_image (resized).png

#43 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
I've seen enough, that board looks pristine

So the board looks okay. That’s cool. So I guess I still got some crazy wiring to track down for the flippers? I mean I’m not getting a flipper EOS error anymore, but the test mode is throwing me off. Wonder why they won’t raise on the hold test? Maybe I need to go back and re-read something haha.
What would you suggest now? Getting the board repaired and maybe trying new ribbons? Check those areas you highlighted for the magnet?
I spent 100.00 on the RD board thinking it’d solve my problems. But it doesn’t like that LR flipper coil, or something doesn’t. Thanks for labeling that board for me btw! Youdaguy!

Quoted from bssbllr:
I noticed you responded to topkat thread with his magnet issues which he got resolved by switching the security chip. Were you able to try the security chip yet.

I have been DM topkat about that chip, yeah. Not ordered it... yet. Also I forgot how super loops worked. For some reason I thought I could hit it either way, but my magnet isn’t working so I forgot right side catches it! Haha.
So left loop is just there to reject from the right and feed the pops, and allow ball to travel from the left side of it. Gotcha.
Man I miss playing this game working...lol

#44 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Wonder why they won’t raise on the hold test?

The hold coil isnt strong enough to pull the flipper up, only to hold it. If you are in the game, and hit the flipper does it stay up, or fall back down?

#45 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Quoted from Pin_Guy:The hold coil isnt strong enough to pull the flipper up, only to hold it. If you are in the game, and hit the flipper does it stay up, or fall back down?

It holds in game

#46 3 years ago

D G

Pin_Guy

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
It holds in game

I would call this working.

2 weeks later

#47 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member

Still at it. Haha.
I got my RD board repaired for free from K’s arcade. Keith with K’s said it Ended up having a bad bridge directly from RD.
All seems fine with the game now, except the magnet still not working. I want to try re-pinning J902. I have been looking for video explanations on how to do this particular type of connector but have only found ones showing every other type. Any suggestions on tools and how to’s on this type of connector?

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#48 3 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

OP
Quoted from Magicmike0:
Still at it. Haha.
I got my RD repaired for free from K’s arcade. Keith with K’s said it Ended up having a bad bridge directly from RD.
All seems fine with the game now, except the magnet still not working. I want to try re-pinning J902. I have been looking for video explanations on how to do this particular type of connector but have only found ones showing every other type. Any suggestions on tools and how to’s on this type of connector?
[quoted image][quoted image]

It’s an IDC connector. You need a punch down tool. It basically pushes the wire down and the connector cuts into the insulation making contact with the wire. They have different sizes so do some research. Prices vary on different sites.

3E8B7B8D-DD54-4170-B9E5-D92335FBE6C5 (resized).png

#49 3 years ago

MSC

Magicmike0

Pinside member