(Topic ID: 287300)

Blew a bridge rectifier in Dirty Harry trying to fix magnet

By Magicmike0

3 years ago


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There are 65 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Thanks again bssbllr! Now I know where to start. I didn’t even know the different names of the connectors. Can I replace that type of connector with the ones where it just slides into the back? Or best to keep it as is?

I would keep it the same IMO but some would disagree. Here is a picture of mine but it was for G.I. I bought a new connector and the tool. Press down on a flat surface till the wire is pushed all the way in. I am a novice and it was my first attempt. This plug will be easy for you.

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#52 3 years ago

This is the best tool for the job:

https://www.pinballlife.com/pancon-156-idc-termination-tool.html

It's made for manufacturing cable harnesses using the original PanCon connectors that were used by all pinball manufactured back in the day. The connector locks into the tool and easily snaps into position for every pin in the connector.

Its a little spendy but IMO its worth every penny.

Unfortunately finding the original PanCon connectors hese days it the hard part.

#53 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is the best tool for the job:
https://www.pinballlife.com/pancon-156-idc-termination-tool.html
It's made for manufacturing cable harnesses using the original PanCon connectors that were used by all pinball manufactured back in the day. The connector locks into the tool and easily snaps into position for every pin in the connector.
Its a little spendy but IMO its worth every penny.
Unfortunately finding the original PanCon connectors hese days it the hard part.

Hmm. I may have to look into it. I just got a crimping tool for Christmas but it look nothing close to this bad boy.
Thanks my friend.

#54 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

I would keep it the same IMO but some would disagree. Here is a picture of mine but it was for G.I. I bought a new connector and the tool. Press down on a flat surface till the wire is pushed all the way in. I am a novice and it was my first attempt. This plug will be easy for you. [quoted image]

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10818-13

Will this work as a replacement connector for J902? It doesn’t match the part # in the manual (5791-10862-13) so probably not huh?

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Will this work as a replacement connector

Don't know. It doesn't list the size. You need .156

LTG : )

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10818-13
Will this work as a replacement connector for J902? It doesn’t match the part # in the manual (5791-10862-13) so probably not huh?

That one might work. It does say it is compatible with DH. I also found these on PINBALLLIFE.

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#58 3 years ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Will this work as a replacement connector for J902? It doesn’t match the part # in the manual (5791-10862-13) so probably not huh?

The MFG part number for the linked part is CE156F18-13-C this is an end type .156 connector for AWG18 wire with 13 connections. I believe The original was a CT156F18-13-C for feedthru wires, but it will work, you just have to cut the end wire stops open to feed the wire thru the connector. The only issue is I doubt you will actually receive the PanCon connector shown, but will get an orange housed TE connector, which will also work...just not with the PanCon setting tool.

Quoted from bssbllr:

That one might work. It does say it is compatible with DH. I also found these on PINBALLLIFE.

EDIT: Yep, thats the one you will likely get from Marco...but you never know.

#59 3 years ago

If you get ambitious, you can also get this ratcheting crimp tool from pinball life for 0.156" connectors (it is not cheap):
https://www.pinballlife.com/molex-crimp-tool-for-0156-terminals.html

#60 3 years ago

Placed an order with Marco. After talking with one of the reps, I decided to just go with some molex connectors. I already have a crimping tool I got for Christmas that I’ve seen used on YouTube. I’ve been dying to try mine out since I got it. Now I’m just waiting on the mail. Will post back once I get J902 and J907 re-pinned(probably this coming weekend when I get time)
Thanks again for all the suggestions and help my friends. It’s greatly appreciated. I have 3 pins and they are all sick right now. Haha. I can play Harry, but not the same without the magnet. My BSD is playable too, but the left pop bumper coil bracket broke last night. Snapped at the stop. My Stargate lower left sarcophagus gate opens and closes at the wrong times causing frustrating drains. I love working on them as much as playing them, but dang.

#61 3 years ago

Wellllllllll....
I re-pinned J902 and J907. I was almost positive that had to be it.
Didn’t help.
Next step? Hmmm. Maybe replace the coil?
Can’t wait til I am an laugh about this, because it’s getting frustrating. If I knew what I was doing. I’d probably pin pointed it long ago. Ha

#62 3 years ago

Wellllllllll....
I re-pinned J902 and J907. I was almost positive that had to be it.
Didn’t help. I’m pretty sure I did it right, because I’m not getting any errors and it’s flipping okay besides the magnet.
Next step? Hmmm. Maybe replace the coil?
Reviewing what I’ve tried.
I changed the bashed up core, changed the security chip, changed to a rottendog fliptronic board, and re-pinned those connectors. Might try to put the original board back in again. Here’s a dumb question. Can ribbon cables go in the wrong way? I’m not talking about being off by a pin, but I mean, do they have to go in a certain way? Since they usually connect between 2 boards, do the ends have to go to a specific board, is it possible to have them plugged in upside down or can they plug in either way, or as long as they are centered on correct pins on each board, they should be good? I have been wondering something else in all this. I can’t remember how the modes start in the HQ. What I mean is, it seems like every time I hit the HQ hole it seems to start or at least call out the ransom mode and shows the animation on the dmd, and then starts the HQ mission.
Does it always call out” the city does not pay in criminals”?...or whatever it says

Can’t wait til I am an laugh about this, because it’s getting frustrating. If I knew what I was doing. I’d probably pin pointed it long ago. Ha

#63 3 years ago

Also, maybe this will help. I know I’m not supposed to peel that tape around the coil, but if I’m going to replace it anyway, I thought I’d investigate. I’m not sure what it should look like, but this look kinda crazy. One wire from the connector plug goes straight to coil winding I guess? The other end comes from plug connector solders to another wire that loops around and comes back to the other end of the coil. Is this normal? Why doesn’t the one wire go straight to it like the other one? Why does it need to be soldered to a different piece of wire and wind through whatever that is under the wrapping in the last picture?
Sorry guys. I don’t mean to sound dumb. Just hoping these pictures will help you help me. Probably all normal, but I’m grasping for answers now. Lol

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#64 3 years ago

After all this time and money spent, I think I may have figured out the problem!
I think all I need is a new connector for the plug the magnet coil plugs into. The end with the red and yellow wire. Today as I was doing another test...I turned the game on, put it into test mode, and went to solenoid, then right loop magnet. I closed the coin door to turn the power on for magnet. I listened and heard nothing.
I was trying to squeeze my multimeter probe into the back side of the plug and as I did I heard the magnet pulse. Seems there was a bad connection in the yellow wire. I can push it a certain way and I hear the magnet, and when I let go it stops. COULD THIS FINALLY BE IT!!!!!!????! I need a new connector and the correct pins for it. I will order ASAP!!!!!!!
I should have figured, after all, the first temporary fix I ever did for this problem to begin with was unplug the coil and replugged it. I guess I got lucky and that wire got wiggled the right way the last time I tried that method. Now to find the part number for the plug and the correct pins. The pic is just to show the plug. I was wiggling it trying to push it in further with no luck haha. I finally cut it off. Was trying to get the pin out in hopes of reusing it.

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#65 3 years ago

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!
FIIIIINNNNNALLYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!
Magnet is working guys! Thanks for all the tips and support! It did end up being the most simple thing I lucked up and found in the last post. I re-pinned the connector for the yellow and red wire, and viola! Wish I’d done that a year ago when I first unplugged and plugged it back in fixing the issue for the longest time. I guess with the short I caused on the fliptronic board I was thinking it might had been a problem I’d really have to dig into and learn some things. I did learn a lot, thanks to all you guys that commented in here.
I hope this helps another Dirty Harry owner having magnet issues.
Thanks again to all you guys for your patience and knowledge.
That magnet can be tricky in a lot of ways, and a number of reasons could make it stop working. Just do a search for Dirty Harry pinball magnet broken, and see all the dead ends, and different success stories.
topkat had to replace the security chip
Others just leveled the magnet to the playfield
Others did different things to get it halfway working.
I took the long road but finally found the way home. Marked post as resolved! Thanks everyone!

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