Usually I'm wanting more power out of a coil, but in this case the outhole kicker in my recently restored Blackout is kicking out so hard the ball is smacking the glass. Any tricks on getting it to chill out some?
Thanks all!
Yopp
Usually I'm wanting more power out of a coil, but in this case the outhole kicker in my recently restored Blackout is kicking out so hard the ball is smacking the glass. Any tricks on getting it to chill out some?
Thanks all!
Yopp
Is it the right size coil for outhole kicker? You can try adjusting the leaf switch as well so that it barely makes contact when the ball is in the outhole.
It's the right coil winding, but it is an SA-23-850-DC when a SG-23-850-DC is called for. I thought the first couple of letters had to do with form factor only and wouldn't make a difference in strength. Also, I'm not sure that making the contact barely touch would make a difference. It's digital, correct? It's either a 1 or a 0, no matter how lightly it touches. Once it gets the signal that the switch is closed it's still gonna slam the ball out the eject and into the glass (which is fun only in that it scares the shit out of people).
I'm thinking I may be able to put a "lesser" coil in it and see how that does.
the letter prefix is related to the bobbin the winding is on.
you could try adding a say....3 ohm 5 watt resistor in series to the coil.
so remove the power wire, the one that connects to banded end of the diode lug and add the resistor, maybe using alligator leads in case 3 ohms is little or not enough. You will notice the ball won't kick out as hard, but may still be too hard so you will need to increase the value slightly, or if it doesn't kick out hard enough drop to a 2.2 ohm.
in essence you are creating a voltage drop across the resistor that wont be across the coil.
Quoted from Rikoshay:the letter prefix is related to the bobbin the winding is on.
you could try adding a say....3 ohm 5 watt resistor in series to the coil.
so remove the power wire, the one that connects to banded end of the diode lug and add the resistor, maybe using alligator leads in case 3 ohms is little or not enough. You will notice the ball won't kick out as hard, but may still be too hard so you will need to increase the value slightly, or if it doesn't kick out hard enough drop to a 2.2 ohm.
in essence you are creating a voltage drop across the resistor that wont be across the coil.
I'm pretty sure I have that resistor here already. I'll give it a try and report back. Thank you SO much for the guidance.
Yopp.
your welcome,
you can start with a 1.5 ohm, whatever you have on hand, in changing the value of the resistor you will notice a difference in the power of the ball being kicked out, by your description i suggested starting with 3 ohm, if it doesn't kick the ball out at all, then the value is too high.
I’m sure you considered this but is the kicker arm mushroomed? Maybe that is causing the ball to be shot upwards instead of outwards.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I’m sure you considered this but is the kicker arm mushroomed? Maybe that is causing the ball to be shot upwards instead of outwards.
I took the mech apart and cleaned, nothing looked out of place. I'll take another look when I get out to the shop.
Quoted from dyopp21:I took the mech apart and cleaned, nothing looked out of place. I'll take another look when I get out to the shop.
Yeah just the tip of the kicker arm. Should have a nice point on it if it’s like any other saucer lockout Williams used for ages. I hat a funhouse where the trough fired the balls into the glass. That sucker was flattened down big time.
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