Usually I'm wanting more power out of a coil, but in this case the outhole kicker in my recently restored Blackout is kicking out so hard the ball is smacking the glass. Any tricks on getting it to chill out some?
Thanks all!
Yopp
Usually I'm wanting more power out of a coil, but in this case the outhole kicker in my recently restored Blackout is kicking out so hard the ball is smacking the glass. Any tricks on getting it to chill out some?
Thanks all!
Yopp
Is it the right size coil for outhole kicker? You can try adjusting the leaf switch as well so that it barely makes contact when the ball is in the outhole.
It's the right coil winding, but it is an SA-23-850-DC when a SG-23-850-DC is called for. I thought the first couple of letters had to do with form factor only and wouldn't make a difference in strength. Also, I'm not sure that making the contact barely touch would make a difference. It's digital, correct? It's either a 1 or a 0, no matter how lightly it touches. Once it gets the signal that the switch is closed it's still gonna slam the ball out the eject and into the glass (which is fun only in that it scares the shit out of people).
I'm thinking I may be able to put a "lesser" coil in it and see how that does.
the letter prefix is related to the bobbin the winding is on.
you could try adding a say....3 ohm 5 watt resistor in series to the coil.
so remove the power wire, the one that connects to banded end of the diode lug and add the resistor, maybe using alligator leads in case 3 ohms is little or not enough. You will notice the ball won't kick out as hard, but may still be too hard so you will need to increase the value slightly, or if it doesn't kick out hard enough drop to a 2.2 ohm.
in essence you are creating a voltage drop across the resistor that wont be across the coil.
Quoted from Rikoshay:the letter prefix is related to the bobbin the winding is on.
you could try adding a say....3 ohm 5 watt resistor in series to the coil.
so remove the power wire, the one that connects to banded end of the diode lug and add the resistor, maybe using alligator leads in case 3 ohms is little or not enough. You will notice the ball won't kick out as hard, but may still be too hard so you will need to increase the value slightly, or if it doesn't kick out hard enough drop to a 2.2 ohm.
in essence you are creating a voltage drop across the resistor that wont be across the coil.
I'm pretty sure I have that resistor here already. I'll give it a try and report back. Thank you SO much for the guidance.
Yopp.
your welcome,
you can start with a 1.5 ohm, whatever you have on hand, in changing the value of the resistor you will notice a difference in the power of the ball being kicked out, by your description i suggested starting with 3 ohm, if it doesn't kick the ball out at all, then the value is too high.
I’m sure you considered this but is the kicker arm mushroomed? Maybe that is causing the ball to be shot upwards instead of outwards.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I’m sure you considered this but is the kicker arm mushroomed? Maybe that is causing the ball to be shot upwards instead of outwards.
I took the mech apart and cleaned, nothing looked out of place. I'll take another look when I get out to the shop.
Quoted from dyopp21:I took the mech apart and cleaned, nothing looked out of place. I'll take another look when I get out to the shop.
Yeah just the tip of the kicker arm. Should have a nice point on it if it’s like any other saucer lockout Williams used for ages. I hat a funhouse where the trough fired the balls into the glass. That sucker was flattened down big time.
Put a weaker coil in better than adding resistor which will get really hot
23-1200 would be a good starting point.
Quoted from slochar:Put a weaker coil in better than adding resistor which will get really hot
23-1200 would be a good starting point.
I appreciate the reply. What is frustrating is I have the correct coil installed, per the owners manual. I agree that adding resistors isn't ideal, and replacing the current coil with a weaker one would be the better option, but I am just curious what might have caused this. What are the odds that the diode on the coil is burned out or not working properly? Thanks again for the reply my friend!
Odds of diode bad is nil if it's bad it would burn out transistor on activation.
Williams used the same coils as much as possible around this era not necessarily the correct ones. Really the guide that's above the eject hole should help guide it away from the glass you sure it's not bent out of shape?
Quoted from slochar:sed the same coils as much as possible around this era not necessarily the correct ones
Yeah I figured a bad diode would be a shot in the dark. I did mess with the guide a little to see if I could make it direct the ball so it wouldn't hit the glass, but I was unsuccessful. I think my best, and probably only option, is to do what you suggested out of the gate and go with the weaker coil. Thank you for your help and guidance! Really appreciate it.
Quoted from slochar:Put a weaker coil in better than adding resistor which will get really hot
23-1200 would be a good starting point.
I agree on the 23-1200. But a 4.7 ohm (or maybe 3.3 ohm) 5 watt resistor should also work. It will not get hot since the coil pulse is short and not frequent.
Quoted from PINTEC:Ball kicking hard:
Remove cushion spring on kicker assembly, Make sure plates 1 and 2 move freely on the hinge pin.
No?
Clean and lubricate
[quoted image]
Great feedback! I was able to resolve the issue. I removed the spring and the plates moved freely, so it was not gummed up or anything like that. All I did was stretch the spring a little and that did the trick. It now gently pops out of the saucer, as I believe it should.
I was making it harder than it should have been but I had tunnel vision and was convinced it was the coil. I can't thank the community enough for all the help and ideas.
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