(Topic ID: 167469)

Blackout Club... (Fans Welcome)

By mof

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,010 posts
  • 140 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 hours ago by schudel5
  • Topic is favorited by 89 Pinsiders

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#224 6 years ago

@burtcam
Question? Is there a way you can scan the lower part of your playfield?
I really need a good scan of where the slingshots and bonus wheel are.
Thanks, Vec-tor.

4 weeks later
#247 6 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

Has anyone here replaced their Flipper coils for stronger ones?

Have you tried the Game Plan trick?

2 weeks later
#282 6 years ago
Quoted from nicknack66:

Maybe Williams first used the square bezels on the run and then switched to circles?

Most likely it was they ran out of the supply and had to keep the assembly line going.
Gottlieb's games had circles... so I guess they used there supplier.

4 months later
#348 5 years ago
Quoted from VacMetal:

It sounds as though this is separate from he main game sounds. Can this be disconnected if need be before my wife banishes it to 110 degree summer heat in the garage?

Function #35 set to 12.

1 year later
#526 4 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Hello,
I'm rebuilding my drop targets and was wondering if the horseshoe contact blades are 6 left, 6 right or 3 left and 3 right? I was hoping someone could tell me, so I don't have to take everything out before ordering.
Thank you

??? The drop target contacts use two blades, one with no contacts is the back up blade...
that supports the front contact blades that have switch points.
The drop target contacts used on this style of game are N.L.A.
Unless someone has laser cut reproduction ones.

#528 4 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I think I'm going to reuse the back plates and I couldn't find anything on N.L.A. Marcos is selling both a left and right pattern. When I rebuilt my Stellar Wars drops, I think I used the right pattern on all drop targets.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7614
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7615[quoted image][quoted image]

D/T switch contacts are
1)A-7941 with large points N.L.A. use A-7614 as replacement.
2)01-5831-1 backing contact... still available.

1 week later
#534 4 years ago

Bad power supply capacitor.

6 months later
#685 3 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Just saw on FB
[quoted image]

I see a Grand lizard in the back ground.

2 years later
#938 1 year ago
Quoted from topkat:

Is there a way to add an extra light for the saucer that blinks when you have blackout ready?
I know how to wire it so that the saucer can be lit, but firepower has the blinking which I like if possible.

Maybe you could add an extra lamp socket that is jumped off the blackout ready lamp.
Then install a #455 blinker or led version of the lamp, to light the eject saucer.

8 months later
#987 5 months ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

If you replace the fuse the game will power up fine and everything works until you actuate a pop bumper. So I checked the pops and I don’t see any obvious shorts, all the coils seem ok, plungers move freely.

I have had diodes go bad... the coils move freely etc.
But, a bad diode would pop the power fuse.
And you probably would need to repair the transistor circuitry.

5 months later
#1005 17 days ago
Quoted from jdzwir123:

I picked up a blackout, and now I’m able to join the club and I’m excited!!!
I had a question that maybe I just don’t get it but I ordered a flipper rebuild kit and I got a 1979 kit even though the game was made in 1980 does it still take that older style kit?
That’s what I got from PBR and I was just curious on that?
Thanks in advance

You should have firepower style rebuilt kit.
Call PBR.
Gorgar is still the old EM style.

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