I have one of the new PPS backglasses on order and am getting ready to strip the playfield for a full clean and wax before putting a playfield protector on it. This is my first pin, so I'm spending way more money on it than makes sense.

I've also installed the Rottendog 327 MPU, Rottendog power supply, and a Kohout sound board while I take time reconditioning the original boards.

Oh yeah, and I'm nearly finished with my LED conversion, have a new speaker to install, and will be replacing the volume pot and ancient power cable.

If I ever stop tinkering with it, I'll put a sticker on the inside that says "Orbit complete!" with the date I finished the core reconditioning.

I could probably do it if Jeff would seriously consider making the stencils. I have a few scuffs, but nothing that would stop the scanning process or impede his ability to clean them up.

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Got in touch with Jeff and sent him the photo above. He says my cab is definitely good enough to scan for stencils, so I'm going to get the details from him on what will work best for the scanning grid and see if I can get something to him. I'm hoping he doesn't say the rails have to come off. UPDATE: Whew, no they don't.

He's sending me the scanning details, and I'll try to get it scanned and sent to him in the next week or two.

Especially if shipping is less. I'm eagerly awaiting my repro and am curious as to whether or not some of the small mirrored details are in the new glass, specifically - portions of the gloves and details on the helmets that are mirrored on the original. Haven't been able to tell from photos of the repro whether or not those are still present. I do see some of that detailing on the umbilicals, though, so I'm optimistic.

I'll try to get a photo tonight that shows the original mirroring clearly, but the spots I'm talking about are noted in the attached image. I wouldn't call it a problem, really, but I didn't even notice the mirroring in these areas until I was taking photos for somebody interested in purchasing my original bg and was curious if the screening for the repros carried them forward.

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Excellent! Thanks for checking!

Don't know if you're still looking, but this one popped up on Craigslist:

york.craigslist.org link

It looks exactly like one I played at the White Rose Gameroom Show in York just a few weeks ago. The flaking on the bottom of the backglass is admittedly awful, but the rest of the table worked well at the time.

Attached is a photo I took of the one at White Rose.

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Interesting! The baffles for the lights in the backbox are very specifically shaped in the photo you posted. In mine, they're much less matched to the backglass, which drives me a little crazy sometimes. I don't have any good photos handy, but here is one I took while cleaning that shows some of the 1/2/3/4 player baffles. In the one you worked on, they're the same circle shape as the indicator on the glass. On mine, it's just a series of squares that end up bleeding light into the next player number.

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Did you create those baffles or were they already in there?

Well, I'm now entranced with the better implementation. Guess it's time to finally learn that newfangled 3D printing everybody's excited about.

Oh sure, it'd be a lot easier to drill and cut a wood piece, but where's the fun in that?

What's interesting is that I spent the day at Pinhead Amusements in Bedford, PA on Saturday and they had a Xenon with the backbox open. I saw a woodcut baffle around some of the lights in there that was similar in style to what Lonzo showed.

Mine came with white bat/red rubber, and while I've been tempted to switch to yellow bat/black rubber, I decided against since I keep a copy of the flyer on the wall next to my Blackout. My bats also do not have the Williams logo on them, so I'm going to get a branded set.

But the desire to match some aspects of the original design didn't stop me from modifying the lighting. I put a green LED behind the green targets, red LEDs behind the red targets, and yellow LEDs behind the yellow targets, capped off with a color changer behind the kickout hole that cycles through green/yellow/red/blue/orange ... same colors as the inserts right next to the kickout hole.

I also put CoinTaker Afterburners in the pop bumpers which really make them look fantastic, though washes out the central art on the bumper caps.

So, if the goal is to get the machine back to original spec, you'll probably want to go with what is in the flyer. But if there's a voice in your head saying, "But it'd look cooler if...", just listen to it.

Super simple. I just replaced the #44 incandescent already there with the color changer. I got mine from CoinTaker and went with the 44/Slow/Standard Flat variation.

http://cointaker.com/products/ct-color-changer