I always loved the game since my childhood.
Loved to play a game after eating my french fries.
Now I have a project machine and will ordering a brand new backglass from PPS.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Don't forget to put some fuses in line with the 18V and 34V bridge rectifiers.
Or you can put in a Bridge Board from me.
Available from Big Daddy Enterprises or Marco Specialties.

Brug Bord 03 klein (resized).jpg

Try replacing the eos switches and the flipper button switches.
Most of the time they are burned and worn.
Use the tungsten tip switches, NOT the gold contact switches.
Orbit shot should be completed with a straight shot up the orbit every time.

Bonus lights perhaps.......
Post a picture to be sure.

Cards are available on my website www.inkochnito.nl (which is hosted by the Pinball Rebel)
Look in the Williams section.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Maybe you should put in the "divided by 10" roms.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/317/blkou_t1.zip
At least it would save your correct score.

John Wart would be the place to go http://www.thatpinballplace.com/, but he seems to have all orders on hold.
Ray at Action Pinball perhaps? http://www.actionpinball.com/
I'm sure there are more places to go to.

The spinners move the red lights at the drop targets afaik....

Bend the iron lever a little bit to the sideways.
Just a little bit will do.
Does the cup hold the ball in the middle?

I've made a nice solution for this problem.
Goto my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image for more info.

Brug Bord 01 klein (resized).jpg

Just tread this blue wire as an extra orange wire.
This is in other machines too I've noticed.
I've mentioned this in my pdf file.
http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/Inkochnito_Bridge_Board.pdf
Just look at the file and look for J4-5.

From looking at the schematics, I would say that the blue wire is most likely the supply line for the flippers.
Orange is the supply line for the solenoind via the power supply board.

It depends were you live.
In the USA it would be wise to buy at Big Daddy Enterprises or Marco Specialties.
In Australia you can buy at http://www.rtbb.com.au
In Europe you can buy directly with me.
Large quantities (10 or more) can also come directly to me.
It's often the shipping cost that makes it less interesting to buy only one and send over seas.

Make sure the wires from the rectifiers in the backbox aren't burned.
As it is with all the system 11A and older games.
A lot of the times I see hacks to the master display driver board and the power supply.
Speech working is a great plus.

I've used my Bridge Board in my Blackout.
I also split the GI strings in four parts.
Two 5A fuses for two strings on the insert (original 39 lamps split in two).
One 10A fuse for the playfield lamps.
One 2A fuse for the coindoor/cabinet lamps.
It makes a nice clean view...

Brug_Bord_en_zekeringen (resized).jpg

Here is an image for the insert with the two G.I. strings split.
If you follow the numbers at the sockets you can follow the string.
The playfield you can't split.

Insert_strings_1 (resized).jpg

In the back box the G.I. fuse (20A) and the 5V supply fuses (4A) are mounted on the same card (center bottom) in the back box.
I moved the fuses for the 5V supply (gray wires) to the right to create more space for the additional fuses and the Bridge Board.

The G.I. strings are split into 4 sections.
Insted of one 20A fuse, you now have 4 fuses (5A, 5A, 10A, 2A).
There are two wires going to the insert, one to the playfield and one going to the cabinet (coin door).
Put in 4 fuse holders and connect one side with a thick wire and connect the yellow wire coming from the transformer.
The other yellow wire must be connected to the yellow-white wires previously connected to the lugs on the old fuse card.
I used an old switch stack with two side lugs to create a junction point.
Notice the thick yellow wire going to the G.I. relay from the junction point.

The four thinner yellow wires each goto one of the fuses.
We will sort out which is what later.
First we need to split the G.I. on the insert.
I've started at the top left of the insert and started counting 39 lamps.
Split in two would result into a 20 lamps and a 19 lamps string.
Start counting at the top left untill 20 (20x0.25A=5A).
The wires connection to the lamps after #20 can be cut.
Now you have split the string into two parts.
String one is supplied at lamp 13 and string 2 is supplied at lamp 3.

If you put a 10A fuse in one of the new fuse holders you can see which string is lit.
If it is the playfield you can leave the fuse in there.
If it is one of the insert strings, replace the fuse with a 5A fuse.
Again for the cabinet / coin door string and put in a 2A fuse.

Insert_strings_3 (resized).jpg

Insert_strings_2 (resized).jpg

Do these help?

20170722_171219 (resized).jpg

20170722_171223 (resized).jpg

I think that you need to hit another (non spinner) switch while they are still spinning, to get a second "Orbit completed) call.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-settings-stop-multipliers-carry-over#post-6172722

Have you checked your display voltage?
If the voltage is too high it may explain why your resistors keep burning up.
It can indeed be a sign of a bad display, but check the voltage at the power supply first.
If you have an IDC connector at 3J5, you can measure at pin 1 (ground, most left) and pin 3 (-100VDC).
And measure at pin 1 (ground, most left) and pin 4 (+100VDC).

This would be my next advise....

Did you replace the original round header pins on the driver board (J9 and J11)?
If not, that would be my first choice , followed by replacing the connector.
Has the correct transistor been used (TIP122 or TIP102)?