Replacing the flipper button switch was the thing that worked for mine, can make the orbit shot most times now.

Made this video awhile ago before I reworked the right flipper to make the orbit shot better.

I have a question for the group. I have two original Blackout backglasses that I would say are a 7 out of 10. There is some general flaking but no really bad areas. I am trying to decide whether or not to pull the trigger on the reproduction sold by planetary pinball. To offset the cost of the reproduction I was thinking of selling one or both of the originals. My question is 1 ) would you sell both originals or keep at least one and, 2) what would be a reasonable price for an original backglass in decent/good condition?

FYI. I posted over the weekend to the forum about a controlled lamp issue I was having on my Blackout - green target lamps and center bonus lamps stayed in strobe mode throughout the game. The problem was a loosely soldered wire to the green capacitor in the back cabinet.

WTB- Looking for some displays for my machine. If you have any pm details. Looking for two score displays and credit displays.

Thanks. I'll try changing out the flipper switches down the road (don't have them on hand and need to order at some point). As far as the question/concern about the ball draining down the middle after the orbit shot, mine use to do that regularly, but in adjusting the legs a little it doesn't drain down the middle anymore (at least not in most cases). Game still seems balanced (so it isn't like it's lopsided one way or the other). So it can be fixed, without making any modifications to the game.

When you clear the yellow target bank twice, the right spinner lanes light (red arrows) and value increases to 1000 points per spin, makes a cool sound as it takes it's time adding those spinner points once you hit it. I don't think I ever did on that video, but if they are lit I shoot for them. Hitting the yellow bank 3 times lights blackout and once collected it remains lit for multiple chances at it until the ball drains. Another reason why it is important to get that right flipper working strong.

Red-Green-Yellow lights blackout and you can score it once.

Yellow 3x lights blackout until the ball ends and you can score it as many times as possible.

Here you go, I tried my best to get those spinners lit and also show the orbit shot...Blackout had other ideas, couldn't get the orbit going till last couple balls...one went straight down the middle as others have said. I too want to tweak it so that doesn't happen... as it stands a little nudge as it is coming back down out of the top right spinner helps get it to the left flipper.

Some pics of my game. I'm not a huge fan of leds, so they are only in a couple of spots. I need to replace lamp row 7 circuitry as soon as I get the correct parts and tools. Game isn't the best in the cosmetics department, but it isn't bad either and it plays like a champ.

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Do you roll your game often set to 5-ball?

Still amazed that blackout doesn't start a 2 ball MB

Didn't used too but now that my right flipper can make the orbit shot I can flip the score much easier. I have the game set to earn a free ball at 560,000 and 760,000, but I am going to remove those now that the orbit is obtainable.

I'd like to add that NeoDarkHaven is a great guy to hang out with and a joy to sell a pinball to. Good competitor at league too. Playoffs this week are going to be challenging

On my Blackout the 1, 2, 3, and 4 in the circles at the bottom right corner of the backglass do not work (and yes I changed the bulbs). What are these numbers for and what connector on which board powers them? Thanks.

ask if you need the full schematic

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I have a pdf the BO operators manual which has the lamp and switch matrix's listed as well as the menus. Is there a pdf of the BO shematics/manual? I have been using the Firepower schematics to trouble shoot (which works).

yes there is .. I have pm you a link..

i have also submitted it to ipdb

anyone else who wants it just ask

Awesome! Thanks so much for the info.

I'd like it, please

I also would like that link too if you don't mind
and thank you !

The lights show if it is a 1,2,3 or 4 player game. Is the 20 light in the center of the bonus circle working? I would guess either a break in the ground wire leading into the player 1-4 lights, or a faulty transistor on the lamp driver. I do not have the schematic to narrow down which transistor, nor am I an expert at troubleshooting, just a couple ideas.

I recall that my 20 lamp base was grounding on the bonus light assembly underneath the playfield. I had numerous lights all over the place either not working correctly or not at all, until I put electrical tape around that lamp base and it fixed all those lamp issues.

Good Luck !!

Does anyone have a Blackout playfield they would like to sell. Mine has the yellow middle part gone. I don't mind if it's a little rough.

Thanks a lot wiredoug. The Firepower schematics/manual is close but it is nice to have the exact reference materials.

Could someone please post a pic of the right flipper EOS and lane change switch? I need to see which wires go where and how the diode is connected. Thanks!

Thanks Swillie - I think you may be on to something! Yes, my 20 light does not work either. Everything else works, but the 20 and the 1,2,3,4 at the bottom of the backglass. I didn't realize there was a connection. I actually gave up on my 20 light not working since it wasn't critical to game play. Now I am going to trouble-shoot further. Maybe I'll be able to get all the lights on my game working.

This is what I'm looking for
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I'll post a photo of my right flipper EOS switch, etc., either later tonight or tomorrow morning (depending on when I get back home and can take one).

Here is mine too for reference...

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And some images from my game as well...

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Gents
Any club members thinking of selling their Blackout? I'm interested if in or near PA.

Kris

Be very careful with the EOS/lane change switch assy. Always work on it with power off. You don't want anything shorting together.
EOS has high voltage on it, lane change is on the switch matrix.

Don't know if you're still looking, but this one popped up on Craigslist:

york.craigslist.org link

It looks exactly like one I played at the White Rose Gameroom Show in York just a few weeks ago. The flaking on the bottom of the backglass is admittedly awful, but the rest of the table worked well at the time.

Attached is a photo I took of the one at White Rose.

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I traded a partial restore on a Blackout in exchange for electrical work on the pool in my new house. Had been sitting in a basement not working for years. He didn't want all the wear fixed because he thought it added character, and that was fine with me. :Dl Still did a lot of artwork and had to replace all the triangle inserts because they were warped and sticking out of the top of the playfield. Now it has a beautiful clear coated playfield with some character.

I rebuilt the boards and when I was finished, I played my "break in" games. I really enjoyed the game and if I was looking for a system 6 game, it would be at the top of the list.
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Interesting! The baffles for the lights in the backbox are very specifically shaped in the photo you posted. In mine, they're much less matched to the backglass, which drives me a little crazy sometimes. I don't have any good photos handy, but here is one I took while cleaning that shows some of the 1/2/3/4 player baffles. In the one you worked on, they're the same circle shape as the indicator on the glass. On mine, it's just a series of squares that end up bleeding light into the next player number.

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Did you create those baffles or were they already in there?

That was how the game arrived to me. It looks original as far as age and design. Yours almost look like an aftermarket addition. I am wondering if the original wood came off the backbox and those were added back. I have seen similar plastic pieces like that for sale.

Of course production could have changed during the run.

Well, I'm now entranced with the better implementation. Guess it's time to finally learn that newfangled 3D printing everybody's excited about.

Oh sure, it'd be a lot easier to drill and cut a wood piece, but where's the fun in that?

Mine looks just like yours SinistarX, the other baffles are square plastic as well.

The one I worked on was square too, iirc. Maybe the rounded one is a sample?

What's interesting is that I spent the day at Pinhead Amusements in Bedford, PA on Saturday and they had a Xenon with the backbox open. I saw a woodcut baffle around some of the lights in there that was similar in style to what Lonzo showed.

That's the way all EMs are, and most older SS. They switched to plastic, and then to nothing at all, as time went on