Have you checked your display voltage?
If the voltage is too high it may explain why your resistors keep burning up.
It can indeed be a sign of a bad display, but check the voltage at the power supply first.
If you have an IDC connector at 3J5, you can measure at pin 1 (ground, most left) and pin 3 (-100VDC).
And measure at pin 1 (ground, most left) and pin 4 (+100VDC).

That's very helpful to know. Thank you.

I replaced the resistors with the correct 1/2W and the player 3/4 ‘d’ segment resistor immediately smoked. The other player 1/2 ‘e’ segment worked… for a few minutes, and then also smoked.

I checked the voltage at pin 3 and it was -104 and pin 4 was +100. I checked them a second time and I think I may have shorted something because they now both read 0 and displays are dark. Uggh. I’m making this worse. Noob problems.

This would be my next advise....

My next issue is no speech. Is it worth messing around to try and fix the speech board or buy a replacement from PinPCB?

I presume you have already tried turning the pot on the pcb that mixes sound effects and voice? I believe I fixed this issue once by replacing IC2 and IC3, 1458s.

Thanks @robotworkshop. I probably should have said “if you’re not sure how to diagnosis the problem”. I’m comfortable soldering components on the board but I’m pretty lost on how to diagnosis which components are faulty. I could do a shotgun approach and order a bunch of things and replace half of the board, but at that rate I’d be most of the way into the cost of a new board. I’d really like to fix the board, for the sense of accomplishment and cost, but I need someone to show me how to figure this out. I really want to learn but I’m pretty new and just need some direction.

mof I can open a new thread for the speech issue. I never really know if it’s better to ask in the owner’s thread or a separate one.

How did you make those? I would love some for my game!!! I purchased mine on Sunday and am hopefully picking it up this week! Excited to restore it and do a few small mods like that.

Starting to restore my blackout game. My lock bar is pretty rusted out. Do you guys think it it can be brought back or should I get a new lock bar insert? Also the play field looks very dirty and warn. Are the vertical lines in the art from the wood? And is that reversible?0B7CFC0B-3867-47ED-88B6-193D65AE95A0 (resized).jpeg5FD4731A-8516-4F1B-9B7E-8862FDC21633 (resized).jpegE13E463F-71AA-4823-A639-25D03F0F6CB8 (resized).jpeg2945876E-FFB1-4EC9-B6C5-965F3D8043F4 (resized).jpeg3244D8F6-E923-436A-B058-5161130DA283 (resized).jpeg

Have fun with your new machine. I made them out of acrylic using a laser engraver but in the past would just shape the acrylic using a bench grinder
If you are not handy in this way I will pop you out a set next time I fire up the laser

If you get ball hop as the ball goes from the guide down to the flipper cliffy makes an improved flipper guide .

I would love it if you made me some!! I am not as handy in that way. I would be happy to pay you for your time and the shipping! Just shoot me a message the next time you use the laser!

I am planning to do the same soon. Did you color match the inserts? And what bulbs did you go with for the GI? 2smd sunlight? It looks great!

I just had an issue come up twice in the last 3 days. I’ll be playing and then all of a sudden everything goes dead except the play files lights. The flippers won’t work. The insert lights go off. And the scoring displays turn off. Anyone know what could be causing this? It happened randomly both times. I took a picture the 2nd time.

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Check the connectors at the top of the MPU, the contacts often lose tension and get a bad connection.

If you can take off and reinstall the connectors once or twice and the problem goes away for several weeks you might have the cause.

I need to sell my Blackout stuff soon. No more room unfortunately.
I have a Blackout in very good shape. The playfield is great. Cabinet is great. Backglass is pretty darn good. Has comets leds, titans and new cliffys lane guides. Board work was done by Toronto Pinball exchange this summer so it should play for another 22yrs.
I also have a spare playfield that is mostly populated on the underside but stripped of plastics etc. on the top side. I also have a brand new hardtop ready to go. Looking to sell the whole lot at once. Cheers

I'd be interested in playfield / hardtop. Got pics of them?

Anyone have a chart/reference for the different sizes of the playfield inserts? I have several that are severely cupped and need replaced, particularly the green 2X, 3X, etc inserts just above the flippers.

I can't find a reference part number for the flipper button cabinet switch anywhere, can someone please give me a part number or send a link to the correct switch?

Two of my six digit displays are in various stages of coming unglued from their boards. Would you just hit it with some silicone adhesive, or is there a better fix (aside from replacing the displays entirely)?

I've removed the boards to keep them from scraping paint off my backglass any more than they already have.

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I’d try a little hot glue.

Just got a blackout in a package deal, the thing is it's missing its boards. Not familiar with system 6, what boards would I need to get this thing running?

I don't wanna take my back glass off to double check, but I think you'd need:

MPU
Driver
Power Supply
Sound
Speech

I'm pretty sure they sell a combo MPU + Driver board, and I think there's also a combo Sound + Speech board (I think).
I've not done an exhaustive search, but that's mainly what you'd need.

Is the display driver board also missing? If so, you'd need that too.

Display driver might be missing too as I dont recall seeing any Displays. I was told it was missing boards but I never opened it up to see yet. I might just go with a wolfpack kit if displays are missing aswell

Wolffpac is my go to. Also, you could just get a power supply PCB from Kohout or x-pin and then a Pinball Technologies NW-7(MPU, Solenoid driver and sound board in 1).

I was looking for the nw7 but it seems like it might not be available anymore

Weebly has the sound/speech board to suite:

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-d8224-square-sound--speech.html

I dont think my game has the displays harnesses but I could be mistaken since all harnesses are just a jumbled mess. Is there anywhere to get replacement display harnesses if im missing them?

Is there a way to add an extra light for the saucer that blinks when you have blackout ready?
I know how to wire it so that the saucer can be lit, but firepower has the blinking which I like if possible.

Maybe you could add an extra lamp socket that is jumped off the blackout ready lamp.
Then install a #455 blinker or led version of the lamp, to light the eject saucer.

Thanks! Good idea that sounds the most straightforward. I really liked how it looks in firepower with the lit saucers.

I did this on my Firepower and Blackout hardtop conversions. On Blackout I put in a clear eject shield and tied a lamp socket to the "Blackout" lamp socket. I put a quick color changing led in that new socket. I did the same one firepower by wiring the new lamp socket to the green lock lamps. I just used red leds on Firepower. Here is a little video of my Blackout which shows how it looks.

Here’s how it looks under Firepower.

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Selling my
-Blackout 9/10 with comets and titans
-spare Blackout playfield 6/10 partially populated (top mostly stripped. Bottom mostly attached)
-Blackout Hardtop (nib)

Comfortable shipping. Canada only plz.

Hello to all BLACKOUT lovers

Hope one of you could help me with my issue.
I bought my BLACKOUT some weeks ago, in good condition and a very nice PF.
Checking the mechanics under the PF i recognized, that the upper 3 bank target assembly is broken. Could anybody give me a hint which assembly is the right one? Should I need a new drop target board too?
I couldn't find a parts list at any place. If there is one with part numbers, i would a appreciate the help with this.
THX & Greetings
Bert

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This one? Compare it to the other target bank https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-8038

Thank you for answering so fast! Yes this one and you're absolutely right the coil stop is broken.
What do you think about the plunger, looks very used an oxidized, replace too?
best regrads

As long as the plunger is smooth, its fine. They weren't polished shiny back then.

Great, thanks to all!

Would anyone have the thickness to the backbox light baffle? My game is missing it and im thinking of 3d printing it

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