(Topic ID: 167469)

Blackout Club... (Fans Welcome)


By mof

4 years ago

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  • 832 posts
  • 111 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by trk12fire
  • Topic is favorited by 67 Pinsiders

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There are 832 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 17.
#551 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I know the real answer is "whatever I like" but...what color lighted flipper buttons?
Also wondering if anyone has a more modern looking lighted credit button on their Blackout...if so, do you have a link?

I purchased blue lighted flipper buttons, but I haven't installed them yet.
You can probably create a light for your credit button using the Comet pinball website.

#552 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I purchased blue lighted flipper buttons, but I haven't installed them yet.
You can probably create a light for your credit button using the Comet pinball website.

I wanted Yellow flipper buttons but am going with green, I think.

Last year someone had a black Friday special for lighted flipper buttons but I don't see anything about that this year

Maybe a color changer for the credit button...

#553 1 year ago

Post #503 shows a video of blue flipper buttons

#554 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I know the real answer is "whatever I like" but...what color lighted flipper buttons?
Also wondering if anyone has a more modern looking lighted credit button on their Blackout...if so, do you have a link?

I put lighted flipper buttons on mine, looks cool.
I went with red and I think it looks good (IMO), and seamless with the rest of the cabinet colors and overall lighting.

#555 1 year ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

I put lighted flipper buttons on mine, looks cool.
I went with red and I think it looks good (IMO), and seamless with the rest of the cabinet colors and overall lighting.

My original thought was yellow flipper buttons...but of course I didn't see a kit for them...I think your red ones would look great too.

post #503 has a blue cop-like gumball on top....what does everyone use for toppers?

I just bought my chop saw stand for a rotisserie (based on the Canadian Arcade video)...final components (the 360 plates) for that will arrive Saturday, at which point I need replace some inserts, do some playfield touchup and then deal with a couple or wires that seem to be snipped in multiple places in the harnesses.

1 week later
#556 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Did you get your sling fixed? There are 2 sets of switches on the slings. The one under the playfield with the diode attached only controls scoring, not triggering, so ignore it for now.
The 2 switches that stick through the playfield are what actually triggers the coil to fire. They should be wired in parallel. Carefully inspect these switch stacks for leafs that may be shorted together. Check the capacitor to see if it failed closed. Use your meter on resistance (ohms), game OFF, and measure the resistance between the contact points of the switches to make sure it isn't shorted.

I found the sling issue; the mosfet and resistor on my rottendog board are spent. When I stripped the playfied I found that one of the switches for the slingshot was physically stuck on, and it must of blown the transistor in the original board, and then the mosfet in the new board. Parts on order...

I am having issues with the drop Target banks scoring and resetting without hits. It seems to happen intermittently, but it gets worse the longer the game is on. I thought it might have been related to the sling issue, but the drop s aren't special solonoids and are on a different connector and IC

#557 1 year ago

Need to open up some space?
Need to raise some cash this
season for a new machine?
Anybody looking to move their Blackout and not too far from the Twin Cities please pm me. Looking to join the club.
Thanks!

#558 1 year ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

I found the sling issue; the mosfet and resistor on my rottendog board are spent. When I stripped the playfied I found that one of the switches for the slingshot was physically stuck on, and it must of blown the transistor in the original board, and then the mosfet in the new board. Parts on order...
I am having issues with the drop Target banks scoring and resetting without hits. It seems to happen intermittently, but it gets worse the longer the game is on. I thought it might have been related to the sling issue, but the drop s aren't special solonoids and are on a different connector and IC

Glad you found the problem. Typically, a shorted trigger switch will not cause the driver to fail. Typically the coil will burn before the driver transistor fails. You might want to measure the resistance of that coil to make sure it is in spec, check that the coil diode has not failed shorted and make sure the wires are soldered on the coil in the proper orientation so that the striped side of the diode is towards power. A failed or reversed diode can draw so much power that the driver transistor fails.

2 weeks later
#559 1 year ago

My playfield is on my rotisserie...I've tracked down a few things.
Getting ready to replace the 2x, 3x, etc inserts at the bottom of the playfield along with the arrow inserts.

Does anyone have a source for the number stickers in the correct font for those inserts near the flippers?

I've seen those things for other pins but not Blackout.

#560 1 year ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Finally got everything back together and in the cabinet.
I'm still having an issue with the right slingshot locking on power up. I removed, tested, cleaned, and re-soldiered both switches so I don't think that's the issue. I will continue my investigation this weekend.
I also started having an issue with the yellow drop targets scoring without a hit. It didnt start for a couple games, but now they are constantly scoring and trying to reset. Any ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey MrExtrm, I'm really liking how you lit your playfield. Is that a kit or something that you assembled on your own. I'd like to replicate that look on my BO!
Cheers, Steve-o

(pic of MrExtrm's nicely-lit Blackout playfield below)

NICE BLACKOUT LED (resized).jpg
#561 1 year ago

Does anyone have a spare nice lockdown bar that fits Blackout? It is the last piece that I need to really make my game nice.

#562 1 year ago

Does anyone have a link to a restoration album or thread? I'm putting a basketcase Blackout back together right now, and some pics would be very helpful. Thanks!

#563 1 year ago

There's some good pictures here.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=317

Let me know if you need a specific picture and I'll try to help you out.

#564 1 year ago

If anyone wondered what would happen if you pulled a Blackout boardset, hooked it up on a bench, then connected Siegecraft Electronics (@hhaase) Lamp Matrix tester and Solenoid testers:

https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_category=12&controller=category&id_lang=1

#565 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Does anyone have a link to a restoration album or thread? I'm putting a basketcase Blackout back together right now, and some pics would be very helpful. Thanks!

MOF's is awesome.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resto-blackout-mof-20180225/page/2#post-4357744

#566 1 year ago

Let's talk insert replacement.

I'm having trouble sourcing clear inserts...I have some jewel inserts and some "starburst" (the "standard" ribbed/ridged ones).

I have since decided to replace all of the inserts...where are you guys getting your clear inserts?
Failing that, what are you using?
Also, (it is tough to distinguish between red and amber for me) I suspect that the triangles/arrows at the top are "amber" and not yellow...not sure if this machine has had inserts replaced before or not. I'm thinking about making them yellow. Are the four circles in the orbit--near the spinner--on the left hand side amber?

#567 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I have since decided to replace all of the inserts...where are you guys getting your clear inserts?

I get all my inserts from pinballlife.com

I'm doing a heavy retheme of a Flash, and I used all clear inserts for that(RGB leds under the hood).

#568 1 year ago

I read every entry on this thread last night (and drained all of the "I just joined the club" posts).

Lots of good info here.

By "clear" I have meant "colored but not textured"--

2 weeks later
#569 1 year ago

Getting ready to reassemble my playfield this week (it was purchased disassembled).

Any suggestions about where to start?

Any pitfalls to avoid during reassembly?

Any links to detailed photos?

#570 1 year ago

Let me know if you need specific photos. I'll be glad to help.

#571 1 year ago
#572 1 year ago

I recently ordered the Blackout plastics protector set from Pinball Life...they seem pretty thick. I ordered a bunch of the PETG washers to protect plastics on another pin and they were too thick to use. This set is thicker than the washers.

Has anyone else used this PBL product?

#573 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Getting ready to reassemble my playfield this week (it was purchased disassembled).
Any suggestions about where to start?
Any pitfalls to avoid during reassembly?
Any links to detailed photos?

This game should be pretty fun to reassemble, I’ve got lots of pics for ya. I took mine apart in early anticipation of the hardtop, which should be coming soon.

Does anyone know if Cliffy makes a no hop in lane guide?

#574 1 year ago

Seriously considering joining this club. I have an opportunity to buy a Blackout, but with no back glass. If I order from Planetary Pinball, it's over $100 to ship by Fedex to Canada. Wondering if anyone near Ottawa Canada has a Blackout back glass they are looking to sell, or have other recommendations to obtain one. Doesn't look like CPR has one. Thanks!

#575 1 year ago

I need some help. Been playing and out of the blue, the upper target bank will no longer reset.

1. Checked for broken wires... none.
2. Cleaned the switch contacts...all switches register... it even gives the "Condition Yellow" speech.
3. Checked for blown fuses... none. Even solenoids in the matrix are still working... eject pit, etc. All other solenoids in games working during gameplay and solenoid test mode except upper target bank.
4. Replaced coil, in case it was bad. No luck... same issue.

Anyone have any thoughts? Advice? Thanks.

#576 1 year ago

After all targets are dropped, try pushing/jiggling each target one at a time. See if they spring back up. If they do, then it means the horseshoe isn't making proper contact with the assembly board. However if this was the case, I believe it wouldn't say system yellow. Not sure

#577 1 year ago

I'd also check the back of the drop target boards on the assembly, under the play field. Make sure none of the wires have a broken solder joint. If you end up removing one of the three boards for repair, be very careful. The screws easily strip the backing brackets.

#578 1 year ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Seriously considering joining this club. I have an opportunity to buy a Blackout, but with no back glass. If I order from Planetary Pinball, it's over $100 to ship by Fedex to Canada. Wondering if anyone near Ottawa Canada has a Blackout back glass they are looking to sell, or have other recommendations to obtain one. Doesn't look like CPR has one. Thanks!

Bump for backglass options in or around ottawa Canada?

#579 1 year ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Bump for backglass options in or around ottawa Canada?

I'm about to Triple Thick on my very crazed Blackout backglass.
Of course, I seem to only be able to find a clear product, not an opaque off-white one...so it has me wondering.

Maybe an advertisement on marketplace would yield something?

#580 1 year ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Hey MrExtrm, I'm really liking how you lit your playfield. Is that a kit or something that you assembled on your own. I'd like to replicate that look on my BO!
Cheers, Steve-o
(pic of MrExtrm's nicely-lit Blackout playfield below)[quoted image]

Thanks Steve-O!! I know there are haters out there that only believe in a soft yellow tint on everything. However, nothing beats scoring a blackout in my pitchblack basement, and the original lighting leaves to many dark spots IMHO.

It was not a kit, more trial and error than anything else. For me; the key to getting a good look in the color targets without washing out the art completely was using Two Headed Flex bulbs from comet. That way i could still mix the whites (cool white btw) in where needed, but get really nice color highlighting each area.

#581 1 year ago

I printed up some new game cards from Coindropper. Lovem!

KIMG0044 (resized).JPG
#582 1 year ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Seriously considering joining this club. I have an opportunity to buy a Blackout, but with no back glass. If I order from Planetary Pinball, it's over $100 to ship by Fedex to Canada. Wondering if anyone near Ottawa Canada has a Blackout back glass they are looking to sell, or have other recommendations to obtain one. Doesn't look like CPR has one. Thanks!

Related... what's a good Blackout machine's value without the backglass? Thoughts?

#583 1 year ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Related... what's a good Blackout machine's value without the backglass? Thoughts?

700

#584 1 year ago

US, here is canadian funds , would put it at 1,000 -1,200 k , they usually go for around 1600 - 2200 working and complete

#585 1 year ago

I sold my perfect blackout last year for 1100 and was offered one at 1000 last month. I wouldn't put much value in a backglassless blackout. 700 cdn tops. Is yours the one with the center post installed? If so....even less

#586 1 year ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Related... what's a good Blackout machine's value without the backglass? Thoughts?

Thanks for the responses. Ad was taken down so not sure if it sold or not. It was a Blackout with a Timewarp backglass. Was thinking of buying it, adding the backglass for $400ish, then flip it for a bit more than I'd invest. Oh well... maybe next time. Thanks again!

#587 1 year ago

I bought my Blackout 6 months ago for 900. It's in great shape and everything was fixable. I really enjoy the game, plus it's fun to puke. IMO the game should be worth much more. I think it's only downfall is there's no multi-ball.

#588 1 year ago

Can someone shoot me a couple pictures of their Blackout. I need to see the flipper coils and flipper switches. I may have put a wire on wrong. Particularly the switch wires. I didn't think it mattered which way the wires were attached since it's a contact/no contact switch. I'm still not sure

#589 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Can someone shoot me a couple pictures of their Blackout. I need to see the flipper coils and flipper switches. I may have put a wire on wrong. Particularly the switch wires. I didn't think it mattered which way the wires were attached since it's a contact/no contact switch. I'm still not sure

Never mind, I think I got it.

#590 1 year ago

Hi all, finally in the club! Played two examples of this at various shows over the years and loved it. Finally snagged a project nearby for a good price and after a couple hours of fiddling and troubleshooting (had to debug a few wiring and switch shorts and clean the drop mechs, reseat some ROMS and connectors (rebuilds are pending once GPE gets the kits in stock) it's 100% functional. Love the sounds from this era and it's a nice companion to my Firepower. My playfield has some very minor, easily-touched up wear near the bonus inserts. The arrows of course are all cupped and prone of the pf and should be replaced and I'll probably attempt that soon...

but how are the rest of you handling your cupped round inserts? All of mine are cupped and it looked fairly shallow, but man does it do some weird things. I keep changing my opinion from "ha that's kinda cool, like the unpredictability of space" to "sonuva, can't even trap a ball cuz it gets hung on the bonus insert".

Personally, I'd like to try and wait for a hardtop and spare all my rebuild time for then... but I might have a minor incentive to get this game playable for a possible location, so I'd like to flatten the inserts if possible.

Catch is, I don't want to buy a protector just to throw it away once a hardtop is released. But don't want to go through the process of replacing a bunch of extra inserts either for the same reason. Has anyone ever filled with clear to level out flat, and had them survive for extended play? I keep thinking "spot fills" of clear would just pop and chip out over time. Sure, you can seal the whole pf on top the inserts but: why bother if hardtops, etc around the corner (maybe?)?

#591 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Hi all, finally in the club! Played two examples of this at various shows over the years and loved it. Finally snagged a project nearby for a good price and after a couple hours of fiddling and troubleshooting (had to debug a few wiring and switch shorts and clean the drop mechs, reseat some ROMS and connectors (rebuilds are pending once GPE gets the kits in stock) it's 100% functional. Love the sounds from this era and it's a nice companion to my Firepower. My playfield has some very minor, easily-touched up wear near the bonus inserts. The arrows of course are all cupped and prone of the pf and should be replaced and I'll probably attempt that soon...
but how are the rest of you handling your cupped round inserts? All of mine are cupped and it looked fairly shallow, but man does it do some weird things. I keep changing my opinion from "ha that's kinda cool, like the unpredictability of space" to "sonuva, can't even trap a ball cuz it gets hung on the bonus insert".
Personally, I'd like to try and wait for a hardtop and spare all my rebuild time for then... but I might have a minor incentive to get this game playable for a possible location, so I'd like to flatten the inserts if possible.
Catch is, I don't want to buy a protector just to throw it away once a hardtop is released. But don't want to go through the process of replacing a bunch of extra inserts either for the same reason. Has anyone ever filled with clear to level out flat, and had them survive for extended play? I keep thinking "spot fills" of clear would just pop and chip out over time. Sure, you can seal the whole pf on top the inserts but: why bother if hardtops, etc around the corner (maybe?)?

I've been waiting for that hardtop for almost a year and am moving forward.
I hate the way those guys simply give no updates.

If your triangles look like my triangles did, simply bite the bullet and re-do them now.
You won't find "clear" or unpatterned triangles. I did mine with "starburst" triangles and my "yellow drop target" arrows are actually yellow, not amber.
I don't know that I'd bother with mildly sunken or cupped inserts at this point.
I've been looking for the insert stickers (or a printable file) and have been having no luck.

Welcome to the club.

#592 1 year ago

You can get playfield protectors now for Blackout. That’s the route I’m going on my old Williams games with insert / paint probs. Hard tops are great, but it kills me to see the number of otherwise decent play fields that are being sanded down to install them.

#593 1 year ago

Someone sell me a Blackout!! Cash in hand!

#594 1 year ago

Is it possible to tilt the play field back and lean it on the back box? The interior of my cabinet has side rails, but the left side drops off. This makes the entire play field tilt to the left when I'm trying to flip it to the back box. Are all old Williams cabs this way? I'm thinking of cutting out a 2x2 to length and adding it to the left side, so that both sides are equal.

#595 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Has anyone ever filled with clear to level out flat, and had them survive for extended play? I keep thinking "spot fills" of clear would just pop and chip out over time. Sure, you can seal the whole pf on top the inserts but: why bother if hardtops, etc around the corner (maybe?)?

I'm going to try and sand my insert flat sometime soon.

#596 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is it possible to tilt the play field back and lean it on the back box? The interior of my cabinet has side rails, but the left side drops off. This makes the entire play field tilt to the left when I'm trying to flip it to the back box. Are all old Williams cabs this way? I'm thinking of cutting out a 2x2 to length and adding it to the left side, so that both sides are equal.

Don't add a block that is wider than stock or it will get in the way of components on the underside of the playfield when it is in the playable position. I bet a 2x2 is too wide.

#597 1 year ago

Yeah, that gap in the cabinet rail is confusing. What in the world was that put there for?

Have a question about gameplay, regarding making inlane rollovers: I've noticed when the pops fling the ball back up the inlane as the sequence was just completed (bonus X freshly advanced), it doesn't score the rollover. It's not a matter of the swtiches working, because a pop-up-the-inlane scores reliably... it only does not while the completion sequence is going on. In that regard it seems like the MPU is too slow and missing the switch hit while processing "ooh time to advance bonus...." and I'd simply shrug it off as such, being early solid state / System 6.... but I don't think my Firepower ever had this issue. So is this something unique to Blackout, or do I have a different issue?

#598 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I've been waiting for that hardtop for almost a year and am moving forward.
I hate the way those guys simply give no updates.
If your triangles look like my triangles did, simply bite the bullet and re-do them now.
You won't find "clear" or unpatterned triangles. I did mine with "starburst" triangles and my "yellow drop target" arrows are actually yellow, not amber.
I don't know that I'd bother with mildly sunken or cupped inserts at this point.
I've been looking for the insert stickers (or a printable file) and have been having no luck.
Welcome to the club.

I replaced all the inserts on a Firepower a few years ago and I know of what you speak. I kinda wish I'd been able to save the "clear" inserts though, they really do look kinda cool when lit. I already ordered new inserts (including yellow for the upper bank, great minds, ha!) but might try to see if I can flatten the clear ones, at least enough to maybe use under a hardtop.

It seems like updates from all the repro shops are few and far between. The Hardtop guys are at least consistent and steady if slow... don't get me started on CPR and all their mixed-messaging overhype / under-or-never deliver, take it and like it cuz you have no other option, BS.

I made an insert decal set for Firepower when I did mine a few years ago. I think the fonts are the same, so I could probably do a Blackout set fairly easily if there is enough interest. EDIT: duh, the fonts are different of course... but would still be easy to do.

#599 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Don't add a block that is wider than stock or it will get in the way of components on the underside of the playfield when it is in the playable position. I bet a 2x2 is too wide.

Quoted from goingincirclez:

Yeah, that gap in the cabinet rail is confusing. What in the world was that put there for?

Ah, on further review I think I figured it out: the left spinner! I'll have to open the game to confirm but I bet the spinner rod and switch are too close to the edge for a standard cabinet rail. Which means you probably can't fill the gap with anything thicker than 1/4 or maybe 1/2 inch.

#600 1 year ago

While sliding the playfield forward, lean the weight all to the right and slide past the open slot on left. You now have rails on both sides again and can now tip the playfield all the way up resting on head.

There are 832 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 17.

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