(Topic ID: 167469)

Blackout Club... (Fans Welcome)


By mof

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 536 posts
  • 85 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 57 Pinsiders

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There are 536 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 21 days ago

Looks like my boards are on their way back this week!
I joined the club back in March on St. Patrick's Day.
I hope to be up and running by Thanksgiving.

Planning to use warm white LEDs for GI...anyone have any minor mods they like?
(I'm thinking that the drain could use a light, the Blackout hole could use a light and that some LED strips under the cabinet would be excellent when one achieves Blackout. Maybe some lit flipper buttons and coin drop windows).

#502 21 days ago

I'm going to purchase a light tower and have it display the big orange planet on the upper right side of the play field. Costs 5.00 from Pinball Life. Someone had one on Youtube. I think it looked nice. I'm also going to add a trough light. I'm just trying to figure out which one works for this machine. I found one that would work on WPC Williams, but I'm not sure if it's compatible with this machine. Let me know if you find out. I don't believe the ball eject needs a light, because the play field light works well already. The fire lights look nice behind the back glass. Additionally, I'll be making the the top red lane guides blue. Again, this guy on Youtube had a pretty nice machine.

#504 21 days ago

Actually, that flashing eject hole looks pretty cool. Where do you buy the one in this video?

#505 21 days ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

All day...
Krylon Triple Thick but I believe they have changed the name recently

Rust-Oleum makes the same type of product for less money and more widely available. Most Home Improvement box stores.

#506 21 days ago

has anyone ever attempted a shaker motor in this machine?

too much trouble? just over the top?

#507 21 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I'm going to purchase a light tower and have it display the big orange planet on the upper right side of the play field. Costs 5.00 from Pinball Life. Someone had one on Youtube. I think it looked nice. I'm also going to add a trough light. I'm just trying to figure out which one works for this machine. I found one that would work on WPC Williams, but I'm not sure if it's compatible with this machine. Let me know if you find out. I don't believe the ball eject needs a light, because the play field light works well already. The fire lights look nice behind the back glass. Additionally, I'll be making the the top red lane guides blue. Again, this guy on Youtube had a pretty nice machine.

I did my trough DIY style for maybe $3 cdn.
-3" led strip $1/ft
-2× alligator clips $1
-wire
Clip to some g.i., feed the wire up under the left side of the playfield through the apron and stick the LED to the apron at the trough. Easy peasy.

#508 21 days ago

Several folks have gone to the hardtops threadand voted for Blackout in the last few days...thanks for doing that.
If we keep it up, we'll have a hardtop available sometime (soon?).
Blackout seems to be the only title with any new added votes, at least 4 this week.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread/page/21#post-5268286

#509 21 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Several folks have gone to the hardtops threadand voted for Blackout in the last few days...thanks for doing that.
If we keep it up, we'll have a hardtop available sometime (soon?).
Blackout seems to be the only title with any new added votes, at least 4 this week.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread/page/21#post-5268286

I sorely miss my blackout and will own one again,i voted the other day for bo,well switched from fp actually.Ive seen several pretty trashed i coulda got cheap but pf were trashed.I really hope we get a hardtop cause i will grab the next one if so

#510 17 days ago

Joined the club a couple months ago, but my wedding and honeymoon planning prevented me from putting any work in. This machine is in pretty rough condition, looks like it spent a lot of time in a garage; mouse droppings and leaves included.

No backglass, major acid damage on the board, beat up cabinent and all the rubbers are destroyed. However, the playfield is in pretty decent shape, and the plastics are all in good shape (couple have some warping).

This is my first project (I have a players condition Time Machine), but I'm excited to bring this bad boy back to life. I didn't want to attempt a board refurb, so I got a Rottendog board. The biggest issues, other that a deep clean, is a locked up slingshot coil. I noticed the coil had a burt wrap, but the diode wasn't hooked up, so i thought that may have been the cause. I got a replacement coil (with diode). When I power up, it engages and stays that way. I found one of the activation switches (the scoring switch) was twisted and stuck closed, but that didn't resolve the issue. I've read through several threads on pinside on the issues, and they are usually a transistor or IC issues, but I wouldn't think that's the issue with a brand new board.

If anyone has any ideas on what might be the issue, I would really appreciate the help.

I know the relay for blackout isn't working, but I'll worry about that later...

#511 17 days ago

Any pictures? May need your power board checked and the sound/speech board. The sound cards often need new IC sockets.

There is also an update to add fuses for the bridges. It prevents the wiring from melting if a bridge shorts.

Did you get the combo MPU and driver board? I seem to recall reading that some of the pins near the edge of the board can short against the metal mounting bracket. That could cause a coil to lock on.

Quoted from MrExtrm:

Joined the club a couple months ago, but my wedding and honeymoon planning prevented me from putting any work in. This machine is in pretty rough condition, looks like it spent a lot of time in a garage; mouse droppings and leaves included.
No backglass, major acid damage on the board, beat up cabinent and all the rubbers are destroyed. However, the playfield is in pretty decent shape, and the plastics are all in good shape (couple have some warping).
This is my first project (I have a players condition Time Machine), but I'm excited to bring this bad boy back to life. I didn't want to attempt a board refurb, so I got a Rottendog board. The biggest issues, other that a deep clean, is a locked up slingshot coil. I noticed the coil had a burt wrap, but the diode wasn't hooked up, so i thought that may have been the cause. I got a replacement coil (with diode). When I power up, it engages and stays that way. I found one of the activation switches (the scoring switch) was twisted and stuck closed, but that didn't resolve the issue. I've read through several threads on pinside on the issues, and they are usually a transistor or IC issues, but I wouldn't think that's the issue with a brand new board.
If anyone has any ideas on what might be the issue, I would really appreciate the help.
I know the relay for blackout isn't working, but I'll worry about that later...

#512 16 days ago

Did the coil lock up with the old board in it? Is the coil diode faced the right direction? Check for a short near the coil.

I didn't know those new boards could short against the holding frame. That would really suck. I've used a system 3 rotten dog and it worked great.

#513 16 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Did the coil lock up with the old board in it? Is the coil diode faced the right direction? Check for a short near the coil.
I didn't know those new boards could short against the holding frame. That would really suck. I've used a system 3 rotten dog and it worked great.

The shorting issue is mentioned in this thread. It may not be the issue here but it is something to check.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-to-rottendog-327-owners-check-it-now

I try to use original boards and update those. If an MPU has severe damage then I'd probably look for a used board without acid damage to rebuild.

#514 16 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Did the coil lock up with the old board in it? Is the coil diode faced the right direction? Check for a short near the coil.
I didn't know those new boards could short against the holding frame. That would really suck. I've used a system 3 rotten dog and it worked great.

The coil wasn't hooked up, but based on the three burnt could I found in the bottom of the cabinet, I assume it was happening with the old board as well. I am going to check the edges of the board for mounting shorts, and then I'll check for shorts around the coil. That is what I suspect is happening

#515 16 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Any pictures? May need your power board checked and the sound/speech board. The sound cards often need new IC sockets.
There is also an update to add fuses for the bridges. It prevents the wiring from melting if a bridge shorts.
Did you get the combo MPU and driver board? I seem to recall reading that some of the pins near the edge of the board can short against the metal mounting bracket. That could cause a coil to lock on.

I plan to install the bridge rectifier today instead of waisting my time with the Lions.

I couldn't find a partner for the connector in the bottom picture. I got the pin with the head disassembled, so I don't have a record of the harnesses hooked up correctly.

IMG_20191027_093619 (resized).jpgIMG_20191027_093438 (resized).jpgIMG_20191027_093449 (resized).jpgIMG_20191027_093709 (resized).jpg
#516 16 days ago

That connector that is hanging goes to the relay to Blackout the GI.

IMG_1502 (resized).JPG
#517 16 days ago

Here are some reference photos I just took of my Blackout. It had mainly board issues and was missing parts but was mostly in original state without too many hacks. I added the two extra fuse on the bridges in the head.

It is definitely worth the effort to fix. Blackout is a great game and plays fast.

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#518 16 days ago

Thanks for the pics, I'm sure they'll come in handy. I should have known it was the blackout relay, as that was the only other issue I've noticed. I have almost everything original (except the boards) stripped most of the plastic as someone had done a shit job of waxing, and there was build up on everything! I'm really looking forward to getting it running, and experimenting with some different color schemes, as I just placed a large comet order last night.

#519 16 days ago

I've used my Bridge Board in my Blackout.
I also split the GI strings in four parts.
Two 5A fuses for two strings on the insert (original 39 lamps split in two).
One 10A fuse for the playfield lamps.
One 2A fuse for the coindoor/cabinet lamps.
It makes a nice clean view...

Brug_Bord_en_zekeringen (resized).jpg
#520 15 days ago

Blackout currently has 66 votes.

Blackout seems to be the only title to be gaining votes on the Official Hardtops thread.
If you haven't voted for Blackout yet, please do.
(and if you voted for something that has already been produced, it really doesn't matter anymore--you can change your vote to Blackout!)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread

#521 14 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I've used my Bridge Board in my Blackout.
I also split the GI strings in four parts.
Two 5A fuses for two strings on the insert (original 39 lamps split in two).
One 10A fuse for the playfield lamps.
One 2A fuse for the coindoor/cabinet lamps.
It makes a nice clean view...[quoted image]

I installed your bridge board yesterday, and verified before I pulled the playfield. Went in pretty easily, great solution!

I do like the idea of splitting, and fusing the GI. Do you have any tips of diagram for this? I'm really new to pinball work, my Electronics degree is almost 20yrs old, and I've never done technical work in my career...

#522 13 days ago

Here is an image for the insert with the two G.I. strings split.
If you follow the numbers at the sockets you can follow the string.
The playfield you can't split.

Insert_strings_1 (resized).jpg
#523 13 days ago

In the back box the G.I. fuse (20A) and the 5V supply fuses (4A) are mounted on the same card (center bottom) in the back box.
I moved the fuses for the 5V supply (gray wires) to the right to create more space for the additional fuses and the Bridge Board.

The G.I. strings are split into 4 sections.
Insted of one 20A fuse, you now have 4 fuses (5A, 5A, 10A, 2A).
There are two wires going to the insert, one to the playfield and one going to the cabinet (coin door).
Put in 4 fuse holders and connect one side with a thick wire and connect the yellow wire coming from the transformer.
The other yellow wire must be connected to the yellow-white wires previously connected to the lugs on the old fuse card.
I used an old switch stack with two side lugs to create a junction point.
Notice the thick yellow wire going to the G.I. relay from the junction point.

The four thinner yellow wires each goto one of the fuses.
We will sort out which is what later.
First we need to split the G.I. on the insert.
I've started at the top left of the insert and started counting 39 lamps.
Split in two would result into a 20 lamps and a 19 lamps string.
Start counting at the top left untill 20 (20x0.25A=5A).
The wires connection to the lamps after #20 can be cut.
Now you have split the string into two parts.
String one is supplied at lamp 13 and string 2 is supplied at lamp 3.

If you put a 10A fuse in one of the new fuse holders you can see which string is lit.
If it is the playfield you can leave the fuse in there.
If it is one of the insert strings, replace the fuse with a 5A fuse.
Again for the cabinet / coin door string and put in a 2A fuse.

Insert_strings_3 (resized).jpgInsert_strings_2 (resized).jpg
#524 13 days ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Joined the club a couple months ago, but my wedding and honeymoon planning prevented me from putting any work in. This machine is in pretty rough condition, looks like it spent a lot of time in a garage; mouse droppings and leaves included.
No backglass, major acid damage on the board, beat up cabinent and all the rubbers are destroyed. However, the playfield is in pretty decent shape, and the plastics are all in good shape (couple have some warping).
This is my first project (I have a players condition Time Machine), but I'm excited to bring this bad boy back to life. I didn't want to attempt a board refurb, so I got a Rottendog board. The biggest issues, other that a deep clean, is a locked up slingshot coil. I noticed the coil had a burt wrap, but the diode wasn't hooked up, so i thought that may have been the cause. I got a replacement coil (with diode). When I power up, it engages and stays that way. I found one of the activation switches (the scoring switch) was twisted and stuck closed, but that didn't resolve the issue. I've read through several threads on pinside on the issues, and they are usually a transistor or IC issues, but I wouldn't think that's the issue with a brand new board.
If anyone has any ideas on what might be the issue, I would really appreciate the help.
I know the relay for blackout isn't working, but I'll worry about that later...

Did you get your sling fixed? There are 2 sets of switches on the slings. The one under the playfield with the diode attached only controls scoring, not triggering, so ignore it for now.

The 2 switches that stick through the playfield are what actually triggers the coil to fire. They should be wired in parallel. Carefully inspect these switch stacks for leafs that may be shorted together. Check the capacitor to see if it failed closed. Use your meter on resistance (ohms), game OFF, and measure the resistance between the contact points of the switches to make sure it isn't shorted.

#525 10 days ago

Hello,
I'm rebuilding my drop targets and was wondering if the horseshoe contact blades are 6 left, 6 right or 3 left and 3 right? I was hoping someone could tell me, so I don't have to take everything out before ordering.
Thank you

#526 10 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Hello,
I'm rebuilding my drop targets and was wondering if the horseshoe contact blades are 6 left, 6 right or 3 left and 3 right? I was hoping someone could tell me, so I don't have to take everything out before ordering.
Thank you

??? The drop target contacts use two blades, one with no contacts is the back up blade...
that supports the front contact blades that have switch points.
The drop target contacts used on this style of game are N.L.A.
Unless someone has laser cut reproduction ones.

#527 9 days ago

I think I'm going to reuse the back plates and I couldn't find anything on N.L.A. Marcos is selling both a left and right pattern. When I rebuilt my Stellar Wars drops, I think I used the right pattern on all drop targets.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7614

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7615

detail (resized).jpgdetail-1 (resized).jpg
#528 9 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I think I'm going to reuse the back plates and I couldn't find anything on N.L.A. Marcos is selling both a left and right pattern. When I rebuilt my Stellar Wars drops, I think I used the right pattern on all drop targets.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7614
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7615[quoted image][quoted image]

D/T switch contacts are
1)A-7941 with large points N.L.A. use A-7614 as replacement.
2)01-5831-1 backing contact... still available.

#529 9 days ago

Thx Vector! Much appreciated. Now I can place an order.

#530 8 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Did you get your sling fixed? There are 2 sets of switches on the slings. The one under the playfield with the diode attached only controls scoring, not triggering, so ignore it for now.
The 2 switches that stick through the playfield are what actually triggers the coil to fire. They should be wired in parallel. Carefully inspect these switch stacks for leafs that may be shorted together. Check the capacitor to see if it failed closed. Use your meter on resistance (ohms), game OFF, and measure the resistance between the contact points of the switches to make sure it isn't shorted.

I haven't checked the switches yet, but thanks for the advice. I pulled the playfield out of the cab so i could clean and rebuild anything. I am inspecting for shorts or cracked welds as i go, but i will perform the checks you described. I have a feeling it's a switch as i haven't found any shorts yet.

#531 4 days ago

So it looks like I found a beater Blackout to replace the first pinball machine I owned.
It is in bad shape. I'll need a hardtop when they are ready, a new backglass and lots of parts to get her up and running again. There are a few parts I'm looking for some advice of where to find. I'll need new decals for all the stand ups, drops and spinners, new pop and pop caps and some new upper rollover plastics.
Any input is appreciated. I'm going to pick it up at the end of the month. So far it looks like its lived in a barn for a few decades

#532 4 days ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

So it looks like I found a beater Blackout to replace the first pinball machine I owned.
It is in bad shape. I'll need a hardtop when they are ready, a new backglass and lots of parts to get her up and running again. There are a few parts I'm looking for some advice of where to find. I'll need new decals for all the stand ups, drops and spinners, new pop and pop caps and some new upper rollover plastics.
Any input is appreciated. I'm going to pick it up at the end of the month. So far it looks like its lived in a barn for a few decades

This business has the decals for the stand ups and drops, plus other Blackout parts as well
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=PDG020

#533 1 day ago

hi to BLACKOUT owners
i have a small ask, and may be this is linked to all sys 6 games...

i've got a video of a BO, and there's a "wave" going on all the displays (which are than ON-OFF in waves), is this a special setting or what ?
i did not see this on other videos found over the net

tanx

#534 1 day ago

Bad power supply capacitor.

#535 1 day ago

ok, tanx, that was quick

#536 1 hour ago

Or camera frame rate making it look like that.

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