Blackout
Williams, 1980I sold my Blackout in September but now I want one again lol. If anyone around Ontario is thinking of selling theirs I'd be interested. Looking for very nice shape. I was spoiled by my last one.
It was my first game but I needed the space. Bad move.
I am joining the club tonight quite possibly
Pumped looks like a fun game never played it
Anything I should look for ?
Thanks
The game is coming from non pinball people
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:I am joining the club tonight quite possibly
Pumped looks like a fun game never played it
Anything I should look for ?
Thanks
The game is coming from non pinball people
If the boards have never been gone through then the 40 pin connection between the MPU and driver boards. Also look for signs of leaking batteries.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:I am joining the club tonight quite possibly
Pumped looks like a fun game never played it
Anything I should look for ?
Thanks
The game is coming from non pinball people
Make sure the wires from the rectifiers in the backbox aren't burned.
As it is with all the system 11A and older games.
A lot of the times I see hacks to the master display driver board and the power supply.
Speech working is a great plus.
I some times will get an extra orbit completed if the spinners are really flying
It doesn’t happen immediately but if the upper left spinner is still moving enough to trigger a read and the right one as well it thinks it looped again. It has to be adjusting the upper left one correct? Just opening. The gap to cut down on how easy it is to register .?
Ok, so I haven't seen this mentioned elsewhere. There is a single target lit on each of the drop targets at the start of the game, and they make a special sound when it's hit. What is the purpose of those? Are they more points/add to the bonus?
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Ok, so I haven't seen this mentioned elsewhere. There is a single target lit on each of the drop targets at the start of the game, and they make a special sound when it's hit. What is the purpose of those? Are they more points/add to the bonus?
Scores 5,000 when lit (w/l)
Screenshot_20190618-163400_Google (resized).jpgI'm printing these Blackout cards for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.
Blackout1 (resized).jpgBlackout2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Chuck_Sherman:yup[quoted image]
same story, just reprinted? I was thinking of getting the original and somehow using it as a topper...if I can find the reprint, I'll just get the whole story arc.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Why buy a reprint? Original is only.worth about $20 l think
That's a fair point. 
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm printing these Blackout cards for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]
I just got some of these apron cards and they are great.
Thanks @ Mr_Tantrum
Quoted from h_flex:Can anyone vouch for the accuracy of this rubber map?[quoted image]
I can’t tell size.. wpuld you want any photos. Or does that not help
Has anyone converted their displays to a seven digits? If so, which set did you use and is there an issue with the back glass covering on of the digits?
Speakers! Sound!
My boards are almost done which means that getting my Blackout up and running will start in earnest soon.
I have played a few different Blackouts and the callouts are muffled.
I'd like to upgrade/replace the speaker.
Has anyone else done this? Does it make a difference?
At this point, I don't have an interest in dumping TONS of money into a new and improved pinsound anything.
I know that some people have added tweeters and woofers and I think that might be overkill at this point.
(Not sure that in this era of pin, it would make a difference since the sounds are so "eighties").
Is there a simple one to one speaker replacement recommendation?
It seems like going from a 40 year old paper cone to a new plastic cone would be huge!
I have heard that with a simple upgrade like this people have started to hear sounds that they were not able to before.
Quoted from ss-pinball:Is there a simple one to one speaker replacement recommendation?
I used this speaker on Blackout and Gorgar. Its bigger, so some cutting is recommended but the sound improvement is noticeable.
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-8004-8-coaxial-speaker--290-378
s-l1600 (resized).jpgI used this in my Space Shuttle:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160-4-6-1-2-classic-woofer-speaker--295-309
Paper cones are easier to drive. But I added a cross-over so it is for bass only. (Two 3 1/2" speakers in the head) I haven't changed Blackout yet.
Quoted from Impzilla:I used this speaker on Blackout and Gorgar. Its bigger, so some cutting is recommended but the sound improvement is noticeable.
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-8004-8-coaxial-speaker--290-378[quoted image]
Aside from the size, would this be a drop in replacement? or are there other modifications for it to work in blackout?
I've ordered speakers on Amazon and you should be able to find some that use the exact same bolt pattern so no mods required. The one in my Blackout was fine but replaced one in my Meteor.
One thing I've noticed is that some speakers are intended for a cutout opening and you also need to order the additional spacer (often 1/2") so the cone doesn't hit the bottom of the cabinet. An easy upgrade for a worn out or torn original speaker.
If the sound doesn't improve then it may be time to install fresh caps on the sound board and reflow and bad solder connections.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I've ordered speakers on Amazon and you should be able to find some that use the exact same bolt pattern so no mods required. The one in my Blackout was fine but replaced one in my Meteor.
One thing I've noticed is that some speakers are intended for a cutout opening and you also need to order the additional spacer (often 1/2") so the cone doesn't hit the bottom of the cabinet. An easy upgrade for a worn out or torn original speaker.
If the sound doesn't improve then it may be time to install fresh caps on the sound board and reflow and bad solder connections.
The boards have been rebuilt--this has been the first step with both of my pins so far. Seems sensible and it preempts lots of other weird problems.
Good call on the spacers. I was going to order a new grill/hole cover for it as well. Seems like a decent idea, I mean when doing a project pin, what's another $25-30?
Quoted from topkat:Aside from the size, would this be a drop in replacement? or are there other modifications for it to work in blackout?
Its compatible electronically, nothing to change on the sound board.
The bigger physical size requires the bottom board to be cut out a bit.
Quoted from Impzilla:Its compatible electronically, nothing to change on the sound board.
The bigger physical size requires the bottom board to be cut out a bit.
I'm sure the larger speaker works fine. Unless the bottom of the game is trashed I wouldn't recommend altering it since you can't go back and undo it and there are plenty of drop in replacements.
This is the speaker I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0765CWG64/
Some speakers should also use one of these:
I almost want to get one just to see(or hear I guess) ..Cant imagine the 40 year old speakers are as good as modern..
My source for speakers: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found
Bummer, no longer available!
Quoted from balt:My source for speakers: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found
no longer available!
The speaker I linked to is a full range speaker, the other linked unit looks to be a mid-range unit and is designed to have other speakers handle other parts of the audio spectrum.
I like the sound of the larger full range but the mid range probably works better than the old factory one too.
Any full range speaker is going to be better than the one that is in there now.
I put the larger speaker in Gorgar first as I wanted the heartbeat to be deeper.
If you want a better drop in replacement without cutting, I used this one in a Williams Flash and it was much better than the old original.
https://www.parts-express.com/visaton-bg17-8-65-full-range-speaker-with-whizzer-cone-8-ohm--292-546
Quoted from Impzilla:The speaker I linked to is a full range speaker, the other linked unit looks to be a mid-range unit and is designed to have other speakers handle other parts of the audio spectrum.
I like the sound of the larger full range but the mid range probably works better than the old factory one too.
Any full range speaker is going to be better than the one that is in there now.
I put the larger speaker in Gorgar first as I wanted the heartbeat to be deeper.
If you want a better drop in replacement without cutting, I used this one in a Williams Flash and it was much better than the old original.
https://www.parts-express.com/visaton-bg17-8-65-full-range-speaker-with-whizzer-cone-8-ohm--292-546
I just ordered two...they'll be here in 5-10 days. It'll probably be Thanksgiving by the time I get Blackout up and running--maybe later depending on the hardtop availability. I may see if the second one will work in Firepower 2...I was actually hesitating to place the order due to an internal struggle over "woofer" vs "mid range"....full range seems like a win.
Thanks for all of the suggestions!
Blackout for sale , willing to ship and pack , https://www.kijiji.ca/v-general-electronics/markham-york-region/williams-blackout-pinball-machine-1900/1464731975?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Hey kids!
the link below is for the Official hard tops thread.
Apparently the hard top people care how many votes there are at the top of the thread for each pin.
If you haven't voted, or need to change your vote to Blackout, please do!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread/page/20#post-5258647
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm printing these Blackout cards for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]
There's a typo on rule #3 of the rules card.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:In the club! I ended up removing the upper left ball gate for additional orbits.[quoted image]
Why?
5 orbits lights the blackout saucer extra ball shot...having the gate open means less time up top in the checkout lanes but the game has more flow in my opinion.
Quoted from swillie:5 orbits lights the blackout saucer extra ball shot...having the gate open means less time up top in the checkout lanes but the game has more flow in my opinion.
Exactly. More flow and you get completed orbits in either direction. You can remove the gate easily with 2 screws. If you don't like it, you can reinstall in minutes.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Exactly. More flow and you get completed orbits in either direction. You can remove the gate easily with 2 screws. If you don't like it, you can reinstall in minutes.
In fact the gate bracket has a hole in the top...I just broke off a toothpick at an angle in that hole and has held the bracket open for awhile now.
Quoted from swillie:5 orbits lights the blackout saucer extra ball shot...having the gate open means less time up top in the checkout lanes but the game has more flow in my opinion.
But that's cheating.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Anyone ever spray or Varathane their back glass to keep it from deteriorating?
All day...
Krylon Triple Thick but I believe they have changed the name recently
Quoted from CanadianPinball:All day...
Krylon Triple Thick but I believe they have changed the name recently
Thank you
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Hamilton, ON
Oakville, MO
Piershil