(Topic ID: 252688)

Blackout - Bringing it back to life

By MaxAsh

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 150 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by MaxAsh
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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Blackout_Speech_C1 (resized).jpg
Blackout_Speech_Schem (resized).jpg
Blackout_Sound_Schem (resized).jpg
IC1_Speech_Schem (resized).jpg
Blackout_Lane_Change (resized).jpg
Lamp_Drivers_2 (resized).jpg
Lamp_Drivers_1 (resized).jpg
Blackout_Lights_dead_Matrix (resized).jpg
Blackout_Lamp_Trans (resized).jpg
Extra_Driver_Corrosion - Copy (resized).jpg
blackout_sol_switchwires (resized).jpg
blackout_ground1 (resized).jpg
blackout_ground2 (resized).jpg
0C859974-F543-4FBA-81E0-CDCE8B57FD18 (resized).jpeg
Extra_Driver_Board_ (resized).jpg
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#68 4 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Replace IC6 again? The readings were similar for the original IC6 I think, so I guess IC10 should be next. Larger chip, but I do have a spare socket that size. I could steal the 6821 from another board and see if that helps.
I still don't get why letting it "warm up" with the plug removed resolves the issue. So bizarre.

Are the 6821 chips older AMI brand? If so those are known to be questionable. Other chips by Motorola and Hitachi should be much better and less likely to fail.

2 weeks later
#96 4 years ago

Probably time to recap that sound board if it has the original caps.

1 month later
#139 4 years ago

Have you checked the bridge rectifier? I don't think bridges just go bad as often as people think but I have had to replace one before on one of these sound boards. If a diode in it opened up then it will only end up being a half wave by bridge and you will probably get more hum.

#144 4 years ago

Did you just add solder when you reflowed the header pins for the connectors or did you clean out the old solder first?

Whenever I rebuild those boards I remove those connectors and clean the oxidation off the connectors where they are soldered. They can get heavily oxidized when the solder joints are cracked. If you just try to reflow it it tough to get a proper connection.

You may still have bad connections for the grounds throughout the game as well.

#145 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Remember this Just a reminder from the past. You have done a lot of work. You have to figure this out. Keep it up.

Did we ever replace ribbon cable?

If the sound card works and speech is ok I don't think the ribbon cable would be bad. Maybe I've just been lucky but I haven't had to replace one yet and I've fixed a bunch of these sound/speech boards.

#147 4 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

I didn't replace the ribbon cable yet. As for the headers, since the hum goes away when I unplug the ribbon cable (removing speech board connectivity but leaving sound fully functional and significantly louder), I'm guessing the headers aren't the issue, correct? There are no headers on the speech board aside from the ribbon cable connection, so I think I'm okay from that perspective.
Does the ribbon cable factor into a possible ground or hum issue normally? Clearly unplugging it removes the hum. Given the somewhat tricky nature of replacing it, I haven't touched it in anyway. I read about prying it up in one of the guides, and I'm a little concerned I'll make things worse.
I could do some videos, if it's helpful, just to demonstrate the issues.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. Meant the larger .156 connectors where everything attaches to the board at the top.

Is there someone in the area with a Blackout game you can try running your boards in? That would help to confirm the issues are really on your boards or not.

#149 4 years ago

I've learned never to assume anything doing repairs. I'll have to take a look at the schematic again. If you have access to a scope it would be interesting to see if that can help pinpoint the issue.

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