You can try to jumper the pins where the membrane switch plugs in but you would most likely have to replace the whole switch any how. A new switch is around 60$
The new switch is the same one for Riverboat Gambler

I just shopped a black rose where the switch wasn't working. in this case, the membrane switch was fine but the foam pieces that the fire button pressed on to press the switch were too chewed up to register on the membrane.

you need to take off the foam, and test the switch without it (just press directly on the membrane with your finger). if it works replace the foam.

If it doesn't work I would replace the membrane switch with a leaf switch below the lockdown bar receiver. It's been done before. Let me know if you need it and I'll dig up that picture.

I had one that didn't have the membrane or even a button on the lockdown bar for the fire button. So I wired in a leaf switch, bought a rectangle button switch, and drilled the lockbar. That pin has been in an arcade for about 6-7 months now and the switch still works like a champ.

I won't be at that arcade for a few weeks so can't get pix soon, but can explain it pretty easily. Basically you have two wires that lead to that membrane, cut the membrane off. From what i remember, i ran those wires up through a hole somewhere in the cab where the lockdown bar sits atop. I then soldered both ends of the leaf switch to the wires. I then took double sided padding tape (you can get it from staples) and placed the switch atop it, lining the switch end up with the fire button from the lockdown bar. This padding tape serves two purposes, it protects the switch from grounding against the metal of the cab and it gives the switch enough height so that the fire button has no problem depressing it.

Trace the membrane wiring back a bit, does it ever connect to something with only two wires? If not, I'll look into the manual tomorrow to see what two wires in the switch matrix will set off that fire button.

here's the pic. it was a microswitch rather than a leaf switch. not mine, credit to whoever did it if they speak up.

black_rose_fire_switch_replaced_with_m.jpg

That's a smarter and cleaner way to go than my route. Plus you don't risk the possibility of the switch grounding out. In the way I did mine, if the op was to ever lift the bar off the pin and somehow knock that leaf switch around so that it was removed from the adhesive, it could easily ground out that connection.

Here's what mine has. Does anyone have a picture of an original switch?

fire_switch.jpg

The two wires you'll need are yellow on white (from J208-4) and orange on green (from J206-3). If you can't find these two wires connected to that membrane, maybe you'll see them laying around the front end of the cab somewhere. Worst case scenario, splice a wire each into both of those wires from the connector pins a little of the board in the translite cab, then run them directly to the switch mod.

Actually, looking at the first pic you attached which shows the membrane wires running down to a board, it looks like the two wires run off that other connector on the board. I didn't realize the membrane required a board, so first check that board to make sure that's not where the fault is. If the board checks out fine, check out the two wires coming from that other connector and see if they're getting power (it should be the two color coded wires I previously mentioned). If you don't have a multimeter, then in switch test mode, I'd take a jumper cable and touch those two leads together and see if you get a reading for the fire button. If not, I'd check those two leads coming off the power board. If still no reading, you've got an issue on the board. If you do getting reading coming only off the power board but and not the membrane board, then you've got a cut in a wire somewhere