(Topic ID: 112697)

Black Rose Club: owners and fans welcome

By FlippinFantastic

5 years ago

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  • 152 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Lhyrgoif
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#259 3 years ago

Anyone have problems with a their repro cannon plastic? I picked up a nib repro cannon and the flap doesn't sit properly when mounted on the axel rod, too far forwards and cocked off to the side enough that the flap doesn't move freely. Originally assumed that my rod was bent or something as I had a tough time getting it in but can't see anything wrong with it. Going to try to lathe a replacement tonight just in case...

Also the front end of the flaps seems to be designed slightly differently on the reproduction, the chamfer goes all the way across so you can't mix and match? quite annoying...

1 week later
#263 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

What bulb should go in the black 555/wedge sockets on the playfield and back Box?
Also, regarding the 44 sockets marked "R". Were these standard 44 bulbs with a red rubber, or did they get a red cylindrical sleeve?
Thanks in advance,

#906 according to the manual

Mine had red rubbers on the bulbs

#265 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Thanks. Do you have a page # reference for the manual? I have everything squared away on the pin, but would like to have the reference.

I actually just checked the 'operators handbook' (faster to scroll through) but it's in the solenoid table in both (page 4 of the handbook). The manual doesn't specifically have a diagram of the insert annoyingly, but you can trace the wiring for the black connectors back to the given solenoid numbers in the table

#271 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I'm seriously thinking of putting my original back in.

I'd have put mine back in, despite it being half worn away and horribly beaten, except the bottom half is actually broken in three pieces

#272 3 years ago

Could anyone measure the resistance of their lower ramp coil? Mine's blowing that transistor (and fuse), and the coil measures 2.5ohms, which is less than I'd expect, but not so low that I'd expect it to blow..

#278 3 years ago

Can't hurt to replace diodes. I've had some weird problems fix themselves. Not resets though.

As for the yellow targets, maybe try disconnecting the green targets and seeing if it happens?

1 week later
#287 3 years ago

It seems very strange that that would fix a reset problem but then again it seems very strange that the stand ups could cause a reset in the first place without 50v somehow getting to them, which would probably do a lot more than just reset it...

#288 3 years ago

Anyone have trouble with their broadside shot rejecting balls? Mine is devilishly hard to hit, seems to only work when you get the ball to hit one of the walls of the hole and not just go straight in. When I got mine it had a thick metal post screwed in behind the hole but it's not like anything I've seen before. I played a friend's today where the hole was way easier to hit, and he had a bit of foam behind the hole and no post, but I put different thicknesses of foam back there and it didn't seem to make any difference... Also wondered if it was the playfield slope (I have mine at 7 degrees) but I cranked the front legs down all the way and it didn't make a noticeable difference...

#291 3 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

When I first got mine I could not get a ball to stay in there. I tweaked the gate a little as it seemed the ball would hit the back post and pop out before the gate got down to lock it. I reached in and bent it a little so the ball would still clear and the gate wouldn't go too high. Seemed to get back down quicker. It still pops out now and again but I can get it in with flippers and the cannon well enough. My post behind is there but looks like it's been beat up over the years and is a bit deformed.

Which way did you bend it? Towards the front if the machine?

#293 3 years ago
Quoted from StevenW123:

The guy that I bought my BR from put some really thin foam tape on the broadside funnel and it helps a ton to keep the ball from rattling out. Havent had a problem yet.

Did he put it just in the back, or all the way around the funnel

#296 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Did he put it just in the back, or all the way around the funnel

Solved my problems, turns out that that gate is supposed to be a one way gate! The end of the wireform had snapped off of mine, so it just swung back and forth. No wonder the ball always came back out. Replaced it with the wireform from the shooter lane for now, but I'll need to find a replacement eventually before someone gets the back back in the shooter during multiball...

@valechippa6925 Check the resistance of the coil, and do a diode check on the legs of the transistor

#298 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

What zacaj said -- also check the physical popper VUK mechanism. Lift the playfield and make sure no wires have come detached, make sure that the rubber ball holder is still attached to the solenoid plunger. The pin in mine has wiggled loose a bunch of times.

and of course, make sure the shaft moves freely if you do it by hand

#302 3 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

Since BR is prone to fading, has anyone here repainted? I've found some references to a couple machines where Vitrea glass paint was used on the cabinet and looked good. Pic from before I set mine up. On mine the blue is good but yellow and red have faded. Just wondering what other owners have done. Repaint it or leave the fade for character? If repainted, what paint and application was used?

I just out mine in the sun with a cover on the glass to fade the other side equally. When the red is completely gone it actually looks pretty good!

#305 3 years ago
Quoted from gdogfunk:

I picked up Black Rose as my third pin. Just yesterday I finally solved a backbox GI issue... Blown fuse... Go figure lol. I also installed my new game blades from Tilt graphics. Thy block awesome!! I bought pinball pro speaker upgrades, but haven't had a chance to install them. Has anyone installed a speaker upgrade? Any significant sound quality increase?

I installed some $50 car speakers I had lying around, barely sound any different besides from being quieter. Might go back to the stock and try putting them in something else...

#312 3 years ago
Quoted from Daniella_99:

My Highscore is 427,000,000 so far.

Sounds like you need to up some settings...

#314 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Took me a year to beat the 129,000,000 score on my machine when I got it....maybe something wrong on this machine? I had a stuck ramp switch so I'd get too many extra balls....or just a really good player!

First game on mine I sunk three ships, ever since I haven't passed the default 70m highscore... But then again first thing I did when I got it was turn extra balls off. That ramp is horribly broken otherwise... I guess if you have extra balls on with no per-game limit it'd become very easy to have 'infinite' games as long as you can hit it reliably

#317 3 years ago
Quoted from Daniella_99:

Actually I have got my score up to 622,613,070 on factory

Didn't mean to imply you'd lowered the settings, just that if you're getting scores that high the 'stock' settings must be too easy. I've got mine set up with hard letters during multiball, no sink ship letters to start, 4 second timeout on the whirlpool ramp, tilt bob as high as it can go, no extra balls, tournament mode, etc to try to keep it challenging, rewarding, and balanced.

1 month later
#326 3 years ago
Quoted from Paddypaws:

there's no red left!

Better than some red left!

#329 3 years ago
Quoted from Paddypaws:

I worked it out. The table was too steep, I like a fast game, but it was so steep the ball fell off the whirlpool wires. It didn't take much less angle to fix it though.

How steep was too steep?

#331 3 years ago
Quoted from Paddypaws:

Well the spirit level bubble was right off the end stop. I raised the front legs about 3/8ths and it helped a lot. It might need a bit more its not completely stopped the ball slipping off the whirlpool rail. Its still very fast.

My legs won't go that high

1 week later
#343 3 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Should this Pin have Black lighting Flipper bats?

as far as I know they weren't invented until Fish Tales or Doctor Who, later that year

2 months later
#359 3 years ago
Quoted from Tykov:

I recently boarded the ship and picked up a Black Rose...
I got some play in, and am loving it so far... For someone relatively new to pinball like me, it helps me work on aim an shot control.
Earlier today, a credit dot popped up telling me to check out switch 64 (lock 2) in the multiball lock lane... I did some poking around and it looks like the switch wire may be broken. Would someone mind checking their playfield and let me know if there are 1 or two wires coming up from the slot? its seems a little strange to me that 2 wires would come up through a single slot, but when I look at the playfield underneath there are clearly 2 switches and the one closer up definitely terminates below the playfield (which ais why I think it's broken). I've scoured images online, but none show the right angle for me to tell what is going on in there...
Looking forward to hoisting the masts again soon!

Yep, two wires and the kicker all in the same slot. Mine was broken off too when I got it.

#363 3 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Bally BLACK ROSE back panel trough assembly behind ship.
A-14825 trough assembly
Weight: 4.75 oz
Anyone have an extra one of these lying around they don't want?

You already try the guy who was parting out a playfield a few pages back?

2 weeks later
#369 3 years ago
Quoted from Scurvydave:

The fuse blows when the game is turned on????

You've probably got some other metal piece touching your #5 GI line

#371 3 years ago
Quoted from Scurvydave:

Thanks, I'll start looking. Is a schematic available?

The only schematics are in http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/313/Bally_1992_Black_Rose_Manual.pdf (page 111), but it's not going to help you much with finding the short.

F108 is the #3 GI string, which the manual notes has a 'yellow' wire color (although it might really be white with yellow stripes judging from dr_nybble's chart. The manual just describes it as the 'bottom playfield' GI string. It could also be a board issue, so try unplugging J-120 first and see if the fuse still blows. Otherwise, just fine some GI with the yellow wire, and start examining it everywhere you can find it. (I'm not aware of a diagram of the GI locations) If you can't find the short, you may have to resort to cutting the wire in various places to narrow it down, which sucks.

#373 3 years ago
Quoted from Scurvydave:

Went out and stocked up on fuses....glad it's not the driver board. Time to dig in. Thanks for everybodies help.

Depending on the fuse rating you may be able to buy a resetable circuit breaker and wire it in. Search around on pinside for 'fuse breaker'

#379 3 years ago

Little tidbit I just found and wanted to share, about how much I appreciate the code in Black Rose. I always like to light the lock before doing my second Cannon shot so I can stack the video mode and the mb start. Nothing special. But I happened to have lock lit when I loaded the cannon for my sixth (?) shot, which is instant multiball. "what happens if you stack a multiball onto a multiball?", I wondered. So I shot my instant multiball shot into the start multiball shot, and got a two ball multiball, like I'd expect. But I quickly noticed this wasn't normal multiball, it was running on the three ball multiball rules! (all ramps lit) nice touch. Plus, after you leave that multiball, it still leads the lock lit for another regular 2 ball after. So I know what I'm doing whenever I'm lucky enough to get that deep on the cannon...

1 month later
#396 3 years ago
Quoted from Ven:

It is currently set to 6.5°, I bent the wireform in a bit at the top where the ball exits the curve. Still have one fly off every once in a while but it is much better than before.
What angle are you set up at on your PF?

I've got mine at 7.8 without problems. Never had any at 6.5 either though

1 week later
#404 3 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

How hard is it to take out the center wireform? Mine needs re-welded.

You'll need to take off the metal plate in the back, then its just four screws (two on slings) and it lifts out. Can be a pain accessing back there though

#406 3 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

Are the two bulbs inside the ship plastic (behind the straight wireform) only accessible with the head box down? And do they supposed to be flashers?

Mine has two flashers mounted on the metal plate behind the back wall. Two screws on the bottom of the playfield and two on top of the wall. I can get mine off by just sliding the playfield forward somewhat and having someone hold it at an angle while I work. Never thought of lowering the head...

1 month later
#419 3 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Mark at Freeplay40 might make the whirlpool ramp in the extra strong PETG plastic.
We as owners of the game just need to express enough interest for a run. Usually to make it worth his while he needs 20.

Any idea what they'd cost? Mine works fine but it's not very clear anymore...

1 week later
#431 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I've only played BR a few times in real life but a lot on Pinball Arcade. I've been looking to join the club but no luck so far, I do wonder why there's no auto-launch in this game (multi-ball, ball save, etc.) though, does anyone know why they left it out?

Most games back then didn't have it. I don't think there was a combined auto launch + manual plunger mechanism yet, so I assume Trudeau just preferred having a skillshot / etc

#433 3 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Good trivia...
I do know like Zacaj said above, they weren't invented yet. Many firsts on this pin, the cannon assembly center field was very innovative. Video mode, this was the first pin.
I believe auto launch came out a year after BR with teenage mutant turtles.

T2 had a video mode and auto launch (but no manual launch unless you mean TMNT had manual and auto)

#436 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Does TNMT have an Autoplunger? I ask because it's not listed in the features on IPDB. I guess it really wasn't invented, or at least implemented, on any games by the time BR was released as I thought it had. T2, STTNG, FT and probably some others had an autolaunch but no manual plunger in conjunction with it. 1993 TZ had dual plunger/autolaunch assemblies so that must have been the first WMS game that included it. I'm not good at remembering trivia like this but I do find it interesting.

There was a thread about auto-plunge history a while ago, DE definitely had the combined mech first. Congo may have been the first bally Williams?

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

It appears Turtles was first pin with the plunger and auto launcher combined. Horrible mechanism. Mine was always breaking and was the weak link on this pin. Thankfully stern improved design and they work flawless now. When mine was breaking all the time the solution was to install new modern assembly from stern.

Heh, I've been having tons of pain with the Stern ones, so the data east must have been amazingly bad

#446 3 years ago

When my membrane switch broke I just moved another one under the button and moved the wire in the connector to compensate

1 week later
#455 3 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

This is a fun machine. The rules are not complicated, so when I've got non-pinballers over it is very easy to explain what to do

Heh, really? I have more trouble explaining this than almost any wpc game

2 weeks later
#465 2 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Has anyone recently purchased the replacement cannon assembly plastic from Planetary? I purchased one last year and there's just too many imperfections on the surface (it ain't perfectly flat) so the the ball hops A LOT.

It's an incredibly bad job

2 weeks later
#480 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Switched over to the black OEM lightning bolt flippers

I don't get why so many people put lightning flippers on this game... They don't seem to have been introduced until doctor who and fish tales months later and the manual states it uses regular 3" flippers.

#483 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

I do see in the manual it states the part number for a yellow flipper, but in the promo video for the game as well as the flyer, the flippers were black so, for one, they look better on this game in my opinion, and two, I thought that these should have been on there in the first place and the other company that worked on this pin just installed what they had since two flippers were yellow and one was white.
Next up is to install the stickers for the "gears" of the cannon below the play field. I'm guessing I'll do that whenever I get the Cliffy Cannon protector in the mail and have to pull the cannon out. Not really looking forward to it, but just another bit of owning and maintaining a pinball. Yay

I agree black looks better, but aesthetic changes are much more minor than installing lightning flippers...

#491 2 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Does PPS have the mold to make more cannons? Might be worth a try, I know I would buy a spare...

They used to sell them, so I assume so. Then again the repros aren't quite the same as the originals...

#500 2 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

What goes bad on it & does it happen often?

It's not the motor that's the problem. The body is plastic and gets broken quite easily from the ball running over it and being fired out of it all the time

1 month later
#523 2 years ago
Quoted from Scott_S:

Im in need of the left ramp on my Black Rose. I found this one on Marco:http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8607 but it doesn't look like the correct ramp. Has anyone ordered this? Or know where I can get the correct ramp. Thanks

That's the subway

1 week later
#540 2 years ago

I think you've got them backwards. In mine the two wire one is on the bottom. Colors match though. Should be a complete listing in the manual

3 months later
#572 2 years ago

Does anyone else's Black Rose have flipper optos? I've come across two places now claiming it doesn't use them, but mine has type 1 boards.

Also, anyone have a spare playfield they'd part with?

1 month later
#602 2 years ago
Quoted from Ordinal:

Just joined yesterday, and I'm working out all the kinks that come with a brand new 20 year old machine. So far, I know I'm in on a return cannon wireform. Mine is not diamond plated either, so I may be looking at getting it clear-coated after a proper restoration. It's only my fourth, but I know this will be staying.

How do you know its not diamond plated? As far as I know all wpc games are

#607 2 years ago

What kind of wear we talking? I've seen diamondplate worn to the wood...

1 week later
#610 2 years ago





#612 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Thank You sir! is there a diode on the release coil?

No. Shouldn't be on any wpc coils afaik

2 weeks later
#617 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

need some troubleshooting help......my machine keeps telling me to check fuses 114 and 115......pulled the both, checked with meter and they are fine......any ideas? i am having 20 people over in a couple weeks and need it working

Can be a lot of things.

2 weeks later
#642 2 years ago

The new LED ones should still work fine even if the LCD didn't fit, shouldn't it?

3 months later
#681 1 year ago
Quoted from St0n3PiraT3:

Does anyone put down mylar where the ball exits the ship and drops on the playfield on the top right loop?

Mine had it there stock

2 months later
#724 1 year ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

Can anyone help with a part? I simply can’t seem to find the correct plunger assembly for the coil that raises and lowers Davey Jones’ Locker. All the ones I am seeing are flipper plungers and the plastic connecting piece has the hole too far away. I am at a loss. Thanks in advance.

Seems like an A-8050 in the manual?

2 weeks later
#729 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

My cannon has no wear, what's the best way to keep it that way? Mylar? Or just keeping it waxed?

Most important thing is just to keep it leveled

2 weeks later
#745 1 year ago
Quoted from zerbam:

mine has the same upside down post......i think it is there for that kicker to hit against

Yep. If you remove it fast shots into the lock will bounce back out

1 week later
#751 1 year ago

Has anyone made a custom translite? I'm not a fan of the stock one...

1 week later
#770 1 year ago
Quoted from ViperVS:

Hi guys. Just joined the club with a slight project.
Could someone be kind enough to show me a picture of broadside hole (where you are supposed to shoot with cannon). I think I’m missing something there, since it rearly catches the ball. It only catches it when ball slowly rolls there. Most of the time it just bounces back down.

Does yours have the wire gate and the post in the back? Mine was missing the gate. After adding it it's been near 100%

#774 1 year ago
Quoted from ViperVS:

It has the gate, but it does not do it’s job very well. Only works if ball rolls there super slow. What kind of post is supposed to be there? I can imagine that there is supposed to be something soft that slows the ball down so that the gate has time to close.

Does your gate have a spring? I don't really know if the post helps at all, but it's just a straight post with a rubber sleeve on it iirc

#777 1 year ago
Quoted from ViperVS:

No spring on the gate. I can see the hole for the post but I doubt it would help.

The spring is what's important. Not sure where you could get one through

#780 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

I don't see why a one way gate with roughly the same dimensions wouldn't work.

The ball bounces back out too fast

#782 1 year ago
Quoted from ViperVS:

Thanks for the replies. I think that spring would solve the problem. How to remove that big broadside rear end plastic that covers the gate? I removed those 3 visible screws, but it did not move one bit.

I don't think removing the plastic will help, it's got the back wall behind it. I replaced mine by removing the white ramp behind the wall, then removing the metal guide and wireform

1 week later
#786 1 year ago

Probably one of the few games I own that I'd consider a CPR/etc playfield for, hmm

#799 1 year ago

Even a beat up stock one I'd expect ~$2k.

2 weeks later
#811 1 year ago
Quoted from Captain-Flint:

Yes I love the game... the main hang up I have is those damn worthless drains I get when the cannon isn't 100% level. I mean that thing could be level one day and then just be slightly off the next. The ball hits the bottom rim of the plastic and boom it throws the ball way off. It is enough to drive a guy mad. Plus it's such a pain to get that canon leveled just right to then lower the playfield and notice it moved slightly.

I ended up just leaving it a tiny bit loose, then I reach in through the coin door and adjust it by hand as needed.

#814 1 year ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Join the club today. But it has a few issues. The major one is the dmd is not showing up correctly. The left half shows great the right side is messed up missing dots and lines. I check the common stuff first and no luck. Checked the ribbon cables, power cables ,fuses, and the dmd itself(had a spare on the shelf). I fill like it's a board issue but not sure where to start. I don't want to start pulling chips guessing in the dark. And ideas?

Tried the display test? I think it has a ram check in there. Or another dmd driver to swap in?

1 week later
#819 1 year ago
Quoted from ViperVS:

About that 2 color GI. I have all white currently. I would like to swap some of them to red. How do I know which ones are supposed to be red? I could not find a mention in the manual. Neither could I find a separate GI test in the game menu.

Those lamps are marked with a little 'R' on the playfield if I remember correctly

#821 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm also having problems with the ball bouncing out of the center hole. I've always assumed the wire gates purpose was to hold the ball in but didn't realize it also should have a spring attached for faster "closing" (a spring which my game is missing of course). Great post above for mentioning that
Just ordered the part from Marco but now I'm planning on how to actually mount the actual spring. I've never removed the whole playfield on any pin and I assume this must be done to get proper access to the backside of the PF (the backside of the wooden board at the back). I tried googling on the topic but all responses was either some video there they used expensive carts to lower the pin first or raise the PF with hooks in the ceiling, both options not available to me.
My plan is to have a friend help me and we both stand at each side and lift the PF out, but at what angle should it be ? I've seen posts mentioning lifting up PF from normal play-position, at 75 degrees up and also from a standing ~90 angle and all these different answers confuses me.
Any help is welcome.

I was able to get the playfield off its hinges, then pull it out about a foot and access the back that way. If you look at the hinges you'll see what angle you have to hold the playfield at to lift it off them

#828 1 year ago

Mine goes ball lock to right orbit (barely). It has to go to the ball lock, that's where the video mode shot is.

#832 1 year ago
Quoted from triggur:

Ah, see that's where I'm confused. As you stated, this is what mine does. But page K in the manual (page 15 in the PDF) shows it able to make all the shots from left to right.
As with fishbone's game, my pivot is 12.5mm center/center from the turret shaft. Wouldn't it have to be a bit closer to get a more dramatic swing?
I don't really know where to go with this next. Does /anybody/ have a BR that oscillates across all the shots?

Can you highlight on your picture what exactly you're measuring? I can try to confirm on mine

#836 1 year ago
Quoted from Duvall:

Can you elaborate on that shot? I’ve always assumed Broadside is the intended canon shot but that is way more interesting.

Every cannon level has some shots flashing. Some are all shots, some are only the 3 banks. Video mode (level 2) flashes the broadside and the left lock shot (the only ones that can 'hold' the ball while you play video mode). I always go for the lock shot because it's pretty much impossible to miss.

#839 1 year ago
Quoted from triggur:

Here's the manual. It shows being able to hit all the shots with the cannon.[quoted image]

I mean on the mech

#842 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

I dont know how that is possible not enough range of motion to hit the side 2

There's plenty or range, something must be wrong with yours...

Here's pics of mine at the extremes. Note the alignment on the 'compass'
IMG_20180904_174050 (resized).jpgIMG_20180904_174104 (resized).jpg

Quoted from triggur:

Oops, sorry...
[quoted image]

Same as mine :/

1 week later
#860 1 year ago

Anyone got an nos (or anything really) playfield kicking around?

3 weeks later
#872 1 year ago

I almost wish you could set it so that the red only turned on during a ship cannon shot, and the rest of the time only the white strings were on. With some nice bright white LEDs you can light it up alright, no need for the red for general lighting.

1 month later
#882 1 year ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

Do you guys have also a lot of drains on the left and right side? I find very frustrating to loose the ball so quickly, sometimes I wish to install a metal post in front of each metal guide...
[quoted image]

What kind of post do you have above the outlane?

#886 1 year ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

none actually, that's why sometimes, I wish there was one...I even get the bad thought to drill the playfield to install a new one when I get frustrated...

I mean above the outlane, not above the divider/guide. There's a mounting place for one there on each side. Some Black Roses I've seen had mini-posts, some had star posts.

#888 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

I also find it strange there's no posts at the top of the ball guide wireform. I do get a fair amount of drains.

I wish it had those, but a lot of games are like that, not that strange

1 month later
#923 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Had some extra blue plexi so whipped up a replacement for the top of the Whirlpool ramp. Engraved the whirlpool text on top. I've added a blue LED strip hooked up to the associated flasher. I'm currently shopping mine out, excited to see how it looks lit up. Thoughts?
[quoted image]

I want one

1 week later
#951 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I've really wanted a BR for quite a while - and I've recently gotten a number of plays on the new POTC. I've never played BR in person,
So I'm curious if there's any influence on Pirates

The maelstrom is basically like the whirlpool, including falling off down the middle.

5 months later
#1020 8 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Yeah, I think when you sink a ship the GI flash red then white. But I have gone for the coloured LEDs in my GI to match plastics etc, so I lose the effect … can't have everything

Imagine a mod where every led is RGB, so that they're all on normally, but turn red during cannon shots. Maybe feed in to pinstadium too...

#1028 8 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

It doesnt always make it. You really have to finesse the plunge. It may be necessary to polish the rod or use a different spring. Over time, it has become harder to make that shot.

You can try adjusting the shooter lane guide too. Mine consistently makes it up with a red spring, but barely. I played one at pintastic this weekend that made it around super easy.

2 months later
#1056 5 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I’ve got an error for switch 62 - backboard ramp. Has anyone found an easy way to get to that switch by themselves? (Sometimesgood help is hard to find ).
I can feel it, but I can’t see if a wire broke off. Thanks

Best I came up with working by myself was to tip the playfield up, lift it off the hinges, pull it forward and set the cannon bottom on the lockdown bar receiver. Gives you about 1 foot of room behind the wall to try to work

1 month later
#1087 4 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

I bought it from Finland, so probably not. ;)x
buthamburg will save the day.
Is there a guide for the game? I feel it is much more complex than what’s on the surface.

I did a semi-tutorial stream on it a while ago:

#1093 4 months ago

Those posts look great. What's the reasoning on the yellow though?

2 weeks later
#1116 3 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

How does the "target resets broadside bonus" standup work?
I've noticed that sometimes it helps open the locker.

I think it spots a stand up sometimes. When flashing it awards the center hurry up or relights it if it's timed out.

1 month later
#1131 81 days ago
Quoted from PPS:

these are original manufacturer parts ...

Do you mean these are NOS, or new made with the original tools? Limited stock?

1 week later
#1144 71 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Installation: 1 hour
Levelling: Forever and ever

I just left my levelers loose... if I notice it getting unlevel while playing I just catch the ball, open the door, and adjust it

2 weeks later
#1165 56 days ago

Not for the faint hearted, but you can set the wood near the back on the hinge pins, and set the front of the playfield so the cannon bottom rests on the lockdown bar. That's what I do if I need to get back there quickly

1 week later
#1186 44 days ago

I thought that was weird too when I tore mine down. I removed it, and quickly discovered why it was there! It deadens the balls when they're shot in. Without it, the balls bounce off the kicker arm and frequently right back out of the lock

1 week later
#1193 31 days ago

It'd be cool if cliffy or someone could make a protector for that. Seems like a 3" section of metal where the ball strikes would do fine.

4 weeks later
#1235 3 days ago
Quoted from antinea:

There's a Black Rose for sale not too far away from me. Since this pin has a couple of unique things, are there parts I should double check when I'll take a look at it?

Cracks in the subway and the ramps (including behind the back wall). Check that the center shot's gate has a spring to close it quickly. Cannons are available so not the worst thing anymore if it's cracked.

#1240 3 days ago

Do other people have that spring? Mine doesn't...

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