Quoted from pocketscience:Got formal confirmation from ColorDMD that BR is being worked on "by someone else"...
What does that mean? Another product? Or that they are outsourcing ?
(Topic ID: 112697)
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Black Rose
Bally, 1992
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Quoted from pocketscience:It relates to my previous posts around offering to help ColorDMD with colouring Black Rose. They came back and told me someone else is doing that, basically confirming epthegeek's post that he was the one doing it. Almost all of the colouring work to my understanding is outsourced.
Gotcha - thanks! Can you ask someone to re-do Twilight Zone and Doctor Who? The Orange Daleks are driving me crazy!
1 month later
2 months later
3 months later
Quoted from Wiggy:I guess we all do things diffrently, but thats just crazy advice in my humble opinion.
If your going to remove mylar with the freeze method (which usually is the best method on games from this era) dont just rip it off, TAKE YOUR TIME.
Make sure the adhesive has frozen and pull slowly. Freeze, pull, repeat. Dont rush things like this.
Seconding this. You have to go very slow - a lot of times it’s hard to tell if you’ve successfully frozen off the adhesive, and you pull too hard, too fast and ... lifted insert decals..
Quoted from ViperVS:My experiences have been exact opposite. Freeze separates mylar from adhesive, not adhesive from playfield. I do a small area at a time of course, but if I lift mylar slowly it will pull the adhesive too. And thats what you want to avoid.
I ruined 2 inserts practising slowly. And after that I started doing it faster. No problems since.
I followed Vid's guide - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-547712
He doesn't really specify, just states to " Carefully peel the film back a section at a time." I interpreted this as "go slowly!" and it so far has worked well
Quoted from Captain-Flint:Just wanted to price check Black Rose here with you guys... I put mine up for trade recently and got back some interesting offers. So for starters I know I put in a lot of mods on mine and I will never get that value back. I get that. I accept that, but some of the offers I got were kind of insulting and it stung a bit. Has the market for this pin dropped?
My Black Rose
Coin Taker Non Ghosting LEDS
Mirrored sides
Color DMD
Pin-stadium Lights
Cannon Cliffy
Good-Great condition regarding the playfield
No color fade on the side of the Cab.
Everything works as it should.
Battery pack mod
My offers where $1500 (I have had multiple offers for this), $1800, $2000 (about 6 offers), Straight up trade for a Jokerz, Straight up trade for a Sharkey's Shootout, Straight up trade for an NBA Fastbreak (in rough condition).
I am not ashamed to say I bought the game for $2800 and put in a pretty penny on the mods. So I was a little taken back. Are these people just low balling badly? I assume its worth is still around $2400-$3000 depending on mods and what shape the pin is in.
I don't know what do you guys think???
Just bargain hunters - ignore them; they know their offers are a long shot
2 months later
Quoted from Duvall:It is super-cool. So dramatic when it does it when you are ready to sink a ship. Ours has white and red LEDs in the respective spots and it is awesome.
So are there 2 sets of GI sockets? One for white and one for red?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Nairolf:Hi,
I'm trying to save my black rose. It works very well but the playfield have a big problem on SINK SHIP...
I'can't fin any overlay for this and really don't know what to do to fix it...
It's helloween so I can put this photo!
Any idea is welcome...
[quoted image]
You can recreate the inserts using “waterslide decal” paper which you can print on an inkjet printer, and then Mylar over to protect them. You will need a scan of the original art though, and need to scrape off the existing insert art
Quoted from Nairolf:I'll take a look of "waterslide decal"... Thanks a lot!
Also check the Vid1900 thread about playfield restoration, there’s tons of info in there
2 months later
Quoted from TurnedWoods:3D printing of the Cannon. Two of my mechanical engineers are pinheads and have done some work with 3D printing. I pulled the cannon out of my BR, modeled it, implemented significant changes around the hinge (common point of failure) and then printed 3 test articles.
The fit up and functionality of the design is spot on. The bad news is that the printing composite we used did not hold up well in the game. Specifically at the cannon edge / play-field area. We noted micro chipping in the material and were concerned that the debris could get bonded to the balls in play, damaging the play-field graphics.
We have a dialog going with the distributor we use for 3D printer support and materials.
There are plenty of materials to choose from however, the selection is not so good when it comes to transparent / clear material, which is how the original cannon was produced.
More details to follow in a few weeks
What material did you use? I’m curious, as there doesn’t seem to be any way to 3D print a clear piece at all - and you’d need something that’s a big flexible to stand up to the strain
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Axl:Sure! A 1 to 1 trade. I will ship my game from Norway ASAP!
Lol not exactly what I meant 
7 months later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:I've been on the hunt for 2 years. Just saw your post in another thread.
Every once in a while one will pop up for top dollar. Had a few pinsiders say, Let me look, then nothing.
That's the closest I've gotten.
Why hasn’t anyone just made a 3D printable file and sold that? (I mean, I know the answer, but after 3+ years of waiting.. come on)
1 month later
Quoted from transprtr4u:After going through my game found my DMD was very unsecure due to aged plastic standoffs ... so I'm going to install a Colordmd LCD display. Due to the height of the display will have to arrange the relocation of 2 lights and 1 flasher ...
[quoted image][quoted image]
If it’s not too late, Consider a ColorDMD LED display. It’s still full color, still looks great, and keeps closer to the original “dots”. And it’s the same profile as a regular DMD so no obstruction
Quoted from transprtr4u:Have purchased the LED display before and resold it! I find the lack of dots more to my taste, so I use the smooth setting.
Will post the results when done.
Copy that, understood. Well it’s a great upgrade either way!
3 weeks later
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7 months later
Quoted from OTRChief:I use NVRams in my Data East, Sega, and Stern Whitestar games because the ram chips are socketed and the installations are easy. On Bally & Williams games the ram chips are soldered to the boards and removal and installation of a socket are beyond my soldering skills. I have found Frank’s Lithium Battery Boards-for BALLY-WILLIAMS within my soldering skill level. https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/
[quoted image]
Even quicker to deal with is the Energizer AA Lithium batteries. They last for years as well. Add an external battery holder if you really want to go no-maintenance.
Quoted from jheath:I do have an external holder but nothing is saving. New batteries installed. Not sure how to check. Very new to this
If nothing is saving, the external holder isn't connecting properly. Is it one of those ones with the wood dowels in place of batteries, with a wire running to the external holder? Those are kind of kludgy
2 months later
Quoted from Mancave:From memory alone i think it's a wood screw post but if the hole has been stripped out too much then swap to the longer post with the nut thread. Sorry it's 1.30am and i've had a 'few' bourbons so can't supply a part reference off the top of the bonce
It's definitely a wood screw post. But this is a good idea regardless - those posts eventually weaken anyway from ball impacts; the through-posts with the nut on bottom are far stronger.
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