Just joined the club but as it's a project machine and seems to have a few issues, just going off my first visual inspection, i'm probably gonna ask some stupid questions til i get this baby sorted out The one loudly obvious thing is it's missing the subway trough plastic but otherwise all the rest seems to be present and accounted for. It's definitely got some wiring issues to sort out though and some busted wires off plugs here and there and i'm pretty sure this machine is supposed to have opto boards/interrupters for the flipper buttons, not regular switches?? (few loose wires in that area also) First thing is to get all the wiring looked over and see what boards are working (luckily i have a couple of machines the same era that i can swap with), and after that the usual cosmetic issues you'd expect from a machine that's been sitting around for ages doing bugger all
EDIT** CPU boots up, got sound, DMD works but got a line or 2 out, flippers work...and that's it so far No lights of any kind, no flashers and all other coils not working. All fuses test ok though so it's back to

Could someone please take a photo of their driver board connections, and also of both flipper boards please, that would be most appreciated!! I just need to make sure my plugs are all where they should be.

Cheers mate!!! Very helpful TY
Got the machine up and running now, the issue with no lights, flashers and secondary coils was due to poor connections on some of the driver board plugs, bit of re-seating action got them all happy I will have to track down the opto boards but at the moment it does work with blade switches (just can't stage with the upper right) The main thing is to order the subway ramp so the machine can be played properly, the cosmetic challenges can wait for the time being. The only thing i'm not positive about is the 2 switches for the subway ramp?? The switches on this machine are still attached to the wiring loom underneath but 1 of them is missing the metal actuator. A pic or 2 of the switches would be awesome and if possible the part number for them and any mounting bracket part number?
Thanks for the help

Cheers yeah knew where to download it from but my printer pooped itself just recently I just wasn't sure if both subway switches were the same as one was missing the actuator but to add to the confusion there was a busted actuator in the bottom of the cab which didn't match the whole one. Could have been just a random though of course.
EDIT** I had a look through the manual but i couldn't find a reference for the subway trough switches and the part number?, apologies if i've just overlooked it (getting late here) Also trying to find a reference for the lower channel that the translite fits into, the part that is normally called a H channel for machines that have the speakers beside the DMD. Again...apologies if i have just overlooked these in the manual, was a long day at work and it's getting late. TY for the help!!

Awesome!! yeah that's the one, i must have been tired cause i glossed right over that part

YES!!!! that would be the part i'm sure and i couldn't find anyone selling this part anywhere on the net. The only reference i could find was a post in another pinside thread from Rick @ PPS saying he had the files for a few items (03-8230-3 being one of them) but he wasn't sure what machine they were for, and that was a few years back

That site you mention will be very handy for future part finding missions also so thank you very much for this!! I know i stumbled upon a similar site some years back but i've forgotten the name of it, fairly sure it wasn't the one you mention though.
Thanks again for your help

Lhyrgoif 1 last question and i think i should be right for now are these the correct brackets to attach the switches to the subway trough?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8652

I just wanted to make sure before i put in an order for parts.

So i've got a bunch of parts on order and despite the fact i was just going to get it up and running for now...well i changed my mind and decided to strip the top of the PF, give it a good clean/polish and go over some of the metal parts also. After getting down to the basics left on the PF i spotted this unusual sight at the back of the pirates cove, surely this wouldn't be factory?? Not even sure why it would need some sort of stop as the kick out arm doesn't go back far enough in the cut out hole to hit the PF anyway. It sure has been hitting on the rubber around the arse up star post though cause it's made a big dint in the perished rubber.

DSC04733 (resized).JPG

Wow, ok, wasn't expecting it to be factory that's for sure!! There was certainly a few other things that had been done to the machine that definitely weren't factory, like the use of blade switches for the flippers instead of opto's. This was originally a German delivered machine and appears to have spent most of it's time on location, got the usual holes beside the coin door for a lock bar and a coin return opening that looks like someone attacked it with a can opener

I did post a request into Freeplay40 's thread about possibly doing these along with the other 2 ramps he's reproducing but he's a busy dude at the moment, no reply as yet

I think this machine was supposed to have them yeah, i've just added a set to mine although i did use a standard size for the top right..think that's correct??

I did a bit of researching on this and the jury is kinda divided it seems, some think it was meant to have lightning flippers (and shipped with) , others state the opposite, and certainly IPDB doesn't help either way with this. BTW Ericpinballfan did you end up buying a translite from Micronos?? Mine is pretty sad and the option from pinballcenter looks a bit suss

Before i get too far into adding everything back onto the PF, does anyone know where these 2 clear plastics go? They were missing from the machine when i got it but were included in the new plastic set i bought. BTW can't say i'm totally rapt with the "new" plastic set, had a few plastics lose some small bits of artwork when removing the art side backing (and yep, been careful and slow in doing so). Also been a couple of plastics that i had to drill an extra hole in that was missing, for eg : top left red plastic that is under the ramp entrance to the rear backboard ramp, and also the clear plastic that sits on top of the right pop bumper cap.

DSC04772 (resized).JPG

Ahhhh cool TY, yeah i should have known I had the bloody thing off a little while back too to clean it, brain didn't twig

Ok, well that's unusual about little portions of the artwork coming off with the backing I was assuming these would have been old NOS and perhaps the adhesive had gone a bit suspect over long periods in storage. Also unusual that those particular pieces i mentioned were missing 1 mount hole on each. But hey, it's still better than the old warped set that was on the machine!!

Has anyone had their lift ramp not operate properly, as far as not raising high enough to allow the ball to go under the ramp flap? I've got my machine back together now and have a few teething issues, main one being the lift ramp. I've removed the mech to give it a good clean and it all seems ok visually so not quite sure what's the problem with it

Yeah i'm not sure, put it back together like it was originally but the machine had been idle for a few years before i got it. The peg that lifts the metal ramp flap was poking through the slot in the right hand metal guide (the shorter one of the 2) and was sitting under the flap. It seems like it's either not raising high enough (like the coil is not retracting the rod far enough) or the pivot arm that the peg is attached too is dropping back somewhat (doesn't look worn though)

So i've cleaned the mech and polished up the metal brackets and reassembled it all and still no luck with this. Pic 2 and 3 show the mech in the up ramp position of the coil and you can see there's not enough height to allow the ball to travel underneath the entrance flap. Pic 4 shows the extra travel of the pivot arm when manually pushed back by hand, which seems to be where it should be located to allow the ball into the hole, letting go of the pivot arm makes it sink back to the height in Pic 2-3. Last pic shows that the lift pin of the pivot arm is underneath the support bracket (the part that the tension spring attaches too) that is under the metal ramp. I think it's assembled correctly but as this machine is new to me i can't be positive. Any ideas guys??
dudah i had a look at your post mate, think mine is correct to what you mention but possibly you can tell a bit more going off my pics.
DSC04837 (resized).JPGDSC04838 (resized).JPGDSC04839 (resized).JPGDSC04840 (resized).JPGDSC04841 (resized).JPG

Honestly not sure about the plunger, it was there when i got the machine but that's a definite possibility!! The pivot arm moves freely cause you can manually push it further forward like i have in Pic 4, which is where it should sit when open. It seems odd that it's natural resting point is lower back though, like the notch that is in the lower part of the pivot arm (where the piece of metal that attaches to the down ramp coil bracket sits into) is in the wrong place?
Edit* Just pulled the mech for another look and the plunger rod is the correct size according to the manual (2 - 1/4 inch) and the pivot arm doesn't appear terribly worn in that 'notch' area i mentioned. Kinda lost here for ideas at the moment

DSC04844 (resized).JPG

That's a possibility also! The ramp could have gotten bent when i was in the process of polishing up all the ball guides (and the metal ramp) on the buffing wheel. The position of your lift pin with the ramp up seems to be in the spot where mine is when manually pushed forward in my 4th pic though. That's leading me to think there's something up with my link maybe? Might be better looking at this again in the new light of day, getting late here.

This piece? i think it's about how it should be?

DSC04845 (resized).JPG

First up, thanks everyone for suggestions/help so far!! An update on the lift ramp issue, got it sorted finally It took me far too long to realise that the real culprit was the L shaped bracket that the down coil attaches too (as pictured) It was bent in at the top which of course changes the angle of the dangle as they say Initially thought that the end piece that locks into the pivot arm was bent too far left or right.
The machine is pretty much up and running now, just some switch adjustments to sort BUT i'm still not happy with the cannon height adjustment. Now because i'm only going off where the cannon assembly was screwed on when i got the machine i've been wondering if it's correct?? As you can see in the 2 pics the rod adjusters are two to the left and one to the right, which makes the right hand side adjustment a PITA. I just can't find a happy medium front and back on that side
So is my assembly in the wrong spot as far as where the ring attaches to the underside? I created a mock up of how the rod adjusters are now (left side) and what i would think would be a more ideal position (right side). Is everyone's assembly in the same spot as mine? and thoughts on the suggested position would be greatly appreciated!

DSC04830 (resized).JPG

DSC04848 (resized).JPG

DSC04849 (resized).JPG

Cannon adjustment rods (resized).jpg

TOTALLY agree, 3 just doesn't make sense

I pulled my cannon assembly off again today to get a better look at whether it's possible to align the adjustment rods in a more favourable position. The short answer is i don't think it's gonna be possible The first pic shows the ring location as it is normally and the the 2nd pic shows it rotated to the left so that the top two are parallel with the PF. As you can see the bottom rod isn't centered like this so it would still adjust more biased to the left hand side at the front of the cannon. If it was centered (like i was hoping to achieve) then you would think it should adjust evenly. Pic 4 is basically the same as Pic 2 just that the off centered rod is biased to the right hand side. Pic 3 is rotated to the point that the 'tripod' of the rods is virtually close enough to where it would adjust a lot better BUT then the shite hits the fan with the loading of the cannon i would presume. In Pic 5 you can see the ring has 3 plastic 'studs' on the inside, i'm not sure exactly what these studs do to be honest. I think the main issue is the ridges of plastic on the rod side as i presume that's where the ball comes into the cannon, particularly between the higher portions of the ridges. If you rotate the ring to get a more favourable adjustment position then the gap for the ball load is in the wrong spot. Looks like it's just not going to be able to be moved, unless you could possibly create a new ring?? BIG call i know
Thoughts everyone?
DSC04855 (resized).JPGDSC04856 (resized).JPGDSC04857 (resized).JPGDSC04858 (resized).JPGDSC04859 (resized).JPGDSC04860 (resized).JPGDSC04861 (resized).JPG

It was worth looking into but i guess i always realised it would be like trying to reinvent the wheel
My bro inspected the mech while i had it off the machine and he's quite handy with metal work so he was able to give me some hope. As he pointed out to me, the only way it could be achieved he thought would be to create a new mount ring with an extra adjustment rod, so basically creating a square of the rods instead of a 'tripod'. Where the rods screw through the motor/gearbox mount plate is easily changeable as those holes aren't threaded. The only part that can really foul on the rods is the switch that sticks forward from the catapult arm, the back of the assembly that moves is inside the rod arc. I'm still not sure what those small plastic tabs do as they don't seem to be a guide or a stop for the cannon body (perhaps i'm just overlooking something there) Someone who is good at machining could potentially design a new mounting ring that has the extra adjustment rod and also still has the ball loading gap in the right spot. The extra drawback is that a new adjustment rod and adjuster/guide would also have to be made as i don't think those parts are available anywhere. It's definitely a possibility but most likely would be a once off kind of thing. Creating it as a Mod would be costly and let's face it, to get it to work would require a prototype and then potentially a fair amount of alterations to get it right. All that said i've never been a fan of saying things can NEVER be done

I think it would be possible to change a regular lockdown bar by carefully marking the position of the rectangular gap and even more carefully cutting out with a dremel tool cutting wheel. I don't think it would be necessary to have the 2 small locating holes that are in the original (for the 2 round tabs of the button to locate in) as once the button is screwed on reasonably tight you shouldn't get much movement.

Ok, scratch the 'rectangular gap' part...it's just a round hole with 2 locator cutouts for the tabs on the underneath of the button. I've converted an after market lock down bar (the ones that have been epoxied together) but still need to polish it up all nice and shiny later today. Pics to follow

It's easier to make one than i was originally thinking as the hole for the button is round and there is already an existing hole in the back plate that is the correct sizing and in the correct spot. Just drill to the same diameter as the back holes, preferably with a bench drill and then use a small rounded file to slot the holes top and bottom for the button locator lugs. I was slightly off centre with my file hole on one side but there's plenty of wriggle room for the button to mount level. As you can see by the first pic the originals only have the locator holes through the metal sheet that is the main body and not through the back plate of metal. On the new lock down bar i just filed through both and that's absolutely no worries at all. I will note that my machine doesn't have the membrane switch as it had been replaced by someone else with a standard contact switch. Having said that the new lock down bar has the button in the same spot so i don't think there will be any issues with a machine that has the proper membrane switch mounted. If you don't want to make your own i would sell the original but it's about 70% good condition i reckon.
DSC04868 (resized).JPGDSC04869 (resized).JPGDSC04870 (resized).JPG

Anyone know what the part number is for the 7 position (1 Key) IDC connectors that go on the flipper opto boards? thought i ordered the right one's but it was the larger size.

Could still add the fire button to that lock down bar though. As i posted recently it's not all that hard to do.

Turned up in the mail today, some awesome new ramps from Freeplay40
Whacked some nice new decals on and they will be put back into storage until such time the Buthamburg repro PF's are ready to go and then this machine is in the queue for a decent refit not just the "let's get it up and running" from when i first bought it.
And yes, i had all the decals remade for the left ramp (plus Davey Jones decal) and had to get more than i needed to get them done otherwise it would have cost me heaps extra and wouldn't have been feasible. I do have some of these sets for sale and also some self designed target decal sets. PM me if interested.
I'm really looking forward to the restore on this machine, i can see myself keeping it in the collection!!

DSC05006 (resized).JPG

DSC05007 (resized).JPG

PM sent.

Looks like it has a copy of a Cliffy protector on the front edge of the cannon?? unless someone has added some extra on top of it as they are usually just shiny metal. Shame about the damage to the back of the cab, must admit i've seen plenty of machines shipped that way but not one i can think of that sustained damage to the rear rails, etc Otherwise looks to be in really nice condition

Ok, cool i must have overlooked that option when i ordered my protector ...maybe had a few too many bourbons that night

Yep there's a threaded screw for that hole that holds the ramp down to the post, simple fix

The cannon body and flap + decals is available yep. I bought them for my machine as both were busted when i got it.

You know, now i think about it i'm not sure i have that spring on my broadside gate. I know the bloody thing is tiny though cause i bought a spare when i was collecting some parts for the mini restore when i first bought the machine. Does anyone have a pic of where it actually goes? and how it attaches?

Coool and TY yeah got a spare spring just wasn't sure where it went. Now to check if i have one on there already

The spring was missing on mine and WOW, makes a big difference for such a teensie little spring
I also added some adhesive backed felt on either side of the broadside entrance whilst i had the PF forward. MUCH nicer!!
Thanks Lhyrgoif works a treat

It's much easier having someone help lift the PF but it could be achieved by one person. If you have another person then pivot back the PF until it's almost vertical and you should be able to lift the PF up a little to get the pivot brackets off the pins either side (the brackets have a section cut out to facilitate this). Then all i have done in the past is just move the PF forward until the bottom of the cannon assembly is above the front support/lockdown bar bracket and rest it on there. The back of the PF doesn't drop into the cab on mine just sits on the wooden rails that are mid cab inside. Once that is done to access where the spring goes you will need to at least remove the 2 top screws that hold that metal shield on (has the 2 flashers attached to it). You will also need to remove the rear ramp channel trough (2 screws) and to make it easier i remove the broadside popper rail (2 screws at the back and 2 above the slings) With mine i removed the bracket that holds the gate to attach the spring but you could possibly do it without that step.

Okayyy so they've added an extra rail guide.... hhmmmmm and yeah the lower clear star post should be a metal post with a small round rubber on it, the type with the pointed top. Not sure about part no# off the top of my head, would have to look it up.

Yeah i rest it on the round metal plate part of the assembly, about maybe the first 2cms worth?, if you bring the PF further forward than that it will be sitting on the bottom of the gearbox which probably isn't a good idea. I had issues with my Davy Jones locker for some time after i bought the machine. It will most likely be the down or ramp release part (small coil) that is causing the problem NOT the ramp up coil with the larger spring. I replaced the small metal lock plate that locks the ramp up (part 01-8390) and also the crank assembly arm (part A-14870) Even then it would sometimes get stuck in the up position. After stuffing with it many times i found that the main L shaped bracket that holds the down coil was bent at the back upright section, which in turn alters the angle of the lock plate and where it slots into the crank assembly arm. Even once i had it working it seemed to stuff up a few times for a while, just every now and then, but for the past 2 months or so it's been rock solid..... hope i haven't bloody jinxed mysef stating that here

So to be exact, the large coil pulls in which raises the ramp (activates the crank assembly arm and locks into place with the lock plate), the smaller coil just acts as a release and the long spring that is attached at the back of the guide rails and attached under the ramp helps to bring the ramp down once released. The issue i'm fairly sure is like what i had, in the release and drop.

You might not need to replace it though. Unscrew the assembly that holds the the small coil from the bottom of the PF and have a look at the back of the bracket. It's like an L piece and there is another flat bit of metal on top that's sort of hinged (for want of a better term), this piece is what the coil pulls down to release the ramp and it has the little lock plate screwed to the end of it. My bracket was bent at the back part of the L (the upright part) and bent inwards which in turn altered the angle at where the lock plate engages with the slot in the crank arm. I straightened that part of the bracket up and had better results although as mentioned i had to stuff around with it a bit to get it sorted. I would also check that the front edge of the ramp isn't fouling on the side rail and that the large spring that adds the tension to the underneath of the ramp is clear as well. It's a tricky bloody mech and i must admit out of all the machines i've worked on that up and down ramp and also the cannon assembly is about my least favs when it comes to design.

Mine does that too depending on the speed of the ball but i have one of the cross members busted off from the wireform (the one closest to the whirlpool entrance) so i'm guessing that's why mine does that.

F114 fuse is the 18V Lamp Matrix and F115 is the 12V Switch Matrix both of which if blown you would definitely know, especially the 12V Switch Matrix. Fuses can sometimes look ok but can still be knackered and it's best to test them off the machine with a DMM.
I'm not sure about the bridge rectifier but if those fuses were blown the machine might not be playable although it would still boot up i'm thinking. I just checked my machine and i don't get the coin door open message either but i know the machine is fully working so maybe my switch behind the door isn't working?? not sure, it was like that when i got the machine. I think on my Fish Tales it gives the message but more to the point it cuts the high power to the flipper coils usually, that's what it's designed into the system for.
Sometimes machines can play up due to faulty ribbon cables also, and give weird, seemingly random messages like fuse warnings and such. I've had that happen before on other pins and for Black Rose sometimes i have to reseat the ribbon cable to the display as it occasionally gets lines across it. Try reseating all the ribbon cables on all the boards BUT make sure when you reattach them that all the pins are back in the holes in the connector correctly. It can be quite easy to reattach the connector and be one row of pins over.

Designed a shooter rod for the Rose
Cast from a silicone mold using 2 part liquid plastic resin, hand painted and a couple of coats of clear lacquer over the top to finish with.
Pleased with the result!!

DSC05163 (resized).JPG

DSC05164 (resized).JPG

It's very tough i can vouch for that!! I've had an "Eddie" shooter rod on my Iron Maiden for nearly 2 years (also made that one myself) and there's no worries with wear at all.
I use Smooth Cast 300 for all the molded mods i make and never had any issues with the finished products. You can have stuff ups if you don't adhere to the temperature range advice and the 2 parts do need to be used up reasonably quickly once opened, they don't have a massive shelf life.
I've not heard of the Instamorph type myself but there's a heap of different brands and types of plastic resins on the market.
I did have 5 of these pirate heads for sale...down to the last 1 within 2 hours
I'm gonna have to do some more it seems!!

From memory alone i think it's a wood screw post but if the hole has been stripped out too much then swap to the longer post with the nut thread. Sorry it's 1.30am and i've had a 'few' bourbons so can't supply a part reference off the top of the bonce

At any time during multiball/s is the upper flipper meant to stop working? Is there a setting for this? The upper flipper works normally any other time so i know it's not a coil or opto issue.

I've got a 2nd hand one but it's got the usual warping of the original plastics and a few bits of paint missing here and there , looks to have a slight crack on the edge of one of the screw holes too.

Cheers guys, yeah i didn't think i'd seen an option for it but was just checking off any software issue from the list first.
It seems weird that i've only noticed it a few times and every one of those times it's been during either 2 or 3 ball multi ball, definitely haven't noticed it during regular solo ball play. The mech is all new parts and the coil is fine so it's probably something intermittent with the flipper opto board or the wiring in the connector. When i bought this pin it had been changed over to dodgy non standard looking contact switches for the flippers so the first thing i did was get it back to proper opto boards. Will give the wiring/connector a good looking over and see what happens

I already did some repros of the left ramp decals so i had some for when i bought Freeplay40's new ramps.

Finally got off my butt and completed the topper i'd been planning for some time now. There's not a lot of choices out in the market and most of what i have seen hasn't really done it for me, hence this frankenstein creation Quite happy with the end result.
The brief vid was tailored originally for a FB pinball group i'm in over here btw.

DSC05230 (resized).JPG

DSC05231 (resized).JPG

DSC05232 (resized).JPG

It certainly improves the outlanes that's for sure, not completely non brutal mind you but makes enough difference to be worth the change.
I used the star post supports pictured but i did have to cut off the top 3-4mm of central plastic on the star post though as the metal support wasn't quite long enough to thread in. You probably can get longer thread posts but that was all i had at the time. I've got mine mounted on the lowest hole of the 3.

DSC05298 (resized).JPGDSC05299 (resized).JPGDSC05300 (resized).JPGDSC05301 (resized).JPG

I've created a 2nd batch of my self designed pirate shooter rods for BR and have 5 left if anyone is interested. These are listed on Fleabay at a higher price but due to a running battle i'm having with them with their "new" stupid managed payments system i'd prefer to deal outside of them (they won't release money owed at the moment) These rods can also be used on Stern's POTC and the JJP version (they use Stern length rods) Although the blank rods for these heads are B/W the extra 5-6mm has not proved an issue, about half of the first batch of 8 rods went to POTC owners and had excellent feedback about them. The original prototype rod for my BR had a couple of top coats of a flat clear not the gloss clear i went with for the first and this second batch. The earring is easily removed BTW if it's a bother but having said that i still have it on my prototype and haven't found it obtrusive.

DSC05163 (resized).JPGDSC05164 (resized).JPGDSC05353 (resized).JPGDSC05354 (resized).JPGDSC05355 (resized).JPG Edit** Make that 4 left

PM sent

These are usually all socketed yep but remember when replacing to keep the notch end in the same orientation as the original.

I changed mine over to star posts and it did make some difference to the hellhole of drains this pinny can be

They definitely do need to be reasonably tight but they can be over tightened also which can cause them to not hold the shaft properly. I've experienced this on a few machines now that have been overdone by the previous owner and they get to a point you have to replace that part of the assembly.

I'm not a huge fan of the style decals he has (with that extra thickness behind the image) It tends to peel off from the backing like you can see in Atari's pics. I designed my own set some time ago, well, 2 sets actually as i couldn't decide at the time which one's i liked better. The pics aren't great unfortunately as my camera was playing up at the time, they are much clearer than what they appear.

Decal set4a (resized).jpg

Decal set4b (resized).jpg

Got a weird one going on with the Rose here
Hasn't been played for a few weeks and turned it on last night for a few games, no GI, no inserts, no coils working (except for flippers) but the game is booting up (display is fine) Opened the coin door to go into diagnostics and after a testing review which confirmed no power to coils/flashers etc i went to close the coin door and BAM, get a slam tilt message when the white button behind the door closes (usually a high voltage cut off with the double white button types). If i turn the machine on with the coin door closed i get the message that the slam tilt switch is stuck closed but it's all linked to the white button behind the door. The actual slam tilt on the door is not activating and neither is the one in the cab. Tried resetting all connectors and the data cables, checked fuses (all good) The diagnostic LEDS on the CPU are correct but the only weird one i found was that LED 3 on the driver board >> High/Low Line Voltage Sensor is on, in the manual it states that this one is normally off. All the other LEDS on the driver board are on as they should be. Never encountered this issue before, anyone got any ideas where to start checking??

Yep, if i have the coin door open and manually press the white interlock switch it slam tilts (without touching the coin door or cab slam tilt switches) Starting the machine with the coin door closed brings up the "slam tilt switch is stuck closed" which confirmed to me that the interlock switch is causing it. In switch test both slam tilt switches show as open as they should be.

Page 1-39 shows adjustment/maintenance of the cannon assembly and agree, it's a tricky one to get spot on, more of the best compromise rather than perfection.

Got a bit of a weird issue going on with the LEDS in the pop bumpers, they were fine and now all 3 are dim. No other LEDS on the machine are doing this, all the GI, controlled lamps and flashers are all good, it's just the 3 pop bumper lights. Anyone had this happen before with this machine??

Got it sorted, couple of dodgy solder joints on the header pins of J121

Well, i'm officially out of the club. Sold my machine today to a great bloke and it's going to a good home. Always enjoyed playing the Rose and enjoyed creating mods for it too BUT i'm keen on another NIB machine and 2 older pin's had to go to help fund that. I will have a couple of Pirate shooter rods for sale eventually (not started painting them yet) and still have target decal sets if anyone is interested. As for the future, might get hold of another Rose down the line, never say never

blainedoe I have replied to your recent message about my Black Rose decals and i also replied to your first message 45 days ago just in case you were wondering. I haven't received any reply back to either so not sure if your message settings are incorrect or what
Apologies to the BR thread group for posting this but seems it's the only way to show that i did see and reply to the messages sent to me.

Most of this era machines were screen printed onto a white vinyl substrate that had already been applied to the wood, technically speaking it's a decal/sticker, whatever you wish to call it, just not in as much as modern reprints that ship as BIG stickers None of the DMD era machines (that i'm aware of) were painted directly onto wood.

It's an exact match for the original, would have been reproduced from the original files i would assume. When i replaced the one on my machine it was fine.