(Topic ID: 112697)

Black Rose Club: owners and fans welcome


By FlippinFantastic

6 years ago



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#730 2 years ago

New to the club, bought my BR pin about 3 weeks ago Most stuff worked (except some lamps and a switch or two) but boy were it dirty and really in need of some love.

After cleaning everything both on PF and below, replacing rusty screws, rebuilding flippers, changing all coil sleeves, all new rubbers and replacing lots of broken posts the pin are now in nice condition and ready for playing

During renovation I found an "unused" hex post to the left of the Jumper Bumper and below the Whirlpool ramp. It looks like it could have been used to support the Whirlpool ramp but I don't see any suitable screw hole above it. I also tried googling for Black Rose pictures but I haven't found any pics from straight above the bumpers looking down. So, do you have this hex post and what is it used for? Perhaps support for an extra spotlight?

It looks like a part of the plastic has been broken (marked in red) as the edge is a bit uneven there, should it be an extra ramp support there ? The thing is, the plastic is not right above the hex post so not sure how it would help.
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg

#733 2 years ago

So Puffdanny had the same empty hex post as me, that means it's not some previous owner that just slapped it into the game for some custom mod (like extra lights or whatever).

Thanks for all the pics Ericpinballfan, it's interesting that you don't have it at all, make me wonder what's there on an 100% original game; post or nut.

#734 2 years ago

I found a loose connector with nothing to put it into, its located near the ball launcher inside the cab. Some cables in the connector seem to go to the nearby right flipper button card, while some other cables looks like they are crossing the cab and going to the left flipper button card. As far as I've seen everything works as it should so don't think its really needed, just curious what it could be for.

cable (resized).jpg
2 months later
#820 2 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

The correct parts are: 12-6971 Gate, 10-434 torsion Spring

I'm also having problems with the ball bouncing out of the center hole. I've always assumed the wire gates purpose was to hold the ball in but didn't realize it also should have a spring attached for faster "closing" (a spring which my game is missing of course). Great post above for mentioning that

Just ordered the part from Marco but now I'm planning on how to actually mount the actual spring. I've never removed the whole playfield on any pin and I assume this must be done to get proper access to the backside of the PF (the backside of the wooden board at the back). I tried googling on the topic but all responses was either some video there they used expensive carts to lower the pin first or raise the PF with hooks in the ceiling, both options not available to me.

My plan is to have a friend help me and we both stand at each side and lift the PF out, but at what angle should it be ? I've seen posts mentioning lifting up PF from normal play-position, at 75 degrees up and also from a standing ~90 angle and all these different answers confuses me.

Edit: Also, is the cables long enough so that I can put the PF on the floor beside, alternatively on a table standing beside the game or do I have to unplug them all first?

Any help is welcome.

1 month later
#869 2 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

The correct parts are: 12-6971 Gate, 10-434 torsion Spring
[quoted image]

After a lot of hassle removing the PF from the cabinet I finally got access to the backside and could add this missing spring. Boy does this spring do a lot of difference; a few shots are not able to enter due to the springs "hardness" but almost all balls to the broadside now enter and stay put in the hole instead of always bouncing out again, yay!

1 month later
#892 2 years ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

I found the original musics a bit boring and very... arcade from 80'. This pin deserved a better sound, so with a pinsound board, I made a new remix from pirates movies. That gaves a new "pirate ambience"...much more fun.

It's a fun idea and sounds ok, but I have to say I prefer the original music.

1 month later
#921 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

My stock targets never had any. Added after restore

I added a soft (light-grey) foam to my targets while cleaning it after initial pin purchase but immediately realized that the targets no longer registered hits reliably after that; balls with low force couldn't press the target deep enough. I removed about 50% of the foam with a knife from each target and now it seem to work properly.

I'm still not sure that 100% of all hits registers so I might actually remove all foam in the future, back to what it was from the beginning. I guess the saying "if it work then don't fix it" still is accurate

2 weeks later
#949 2 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

If you hard plunge, where should the ball go? Up davey Jones locker?

Yes, up the locker and around the back. At least that's what it does for me. If I remember correctly the game is supposed to use the hardest type of spring (the red one?).

2 weeks later
#975 2 years ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

Actually, the manual calls for the blue one. Part number 10-148-3.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-148-3

I was doing some other BR maintenance today and verified that it is indeed the blue spring in the manual.

While wondering why I currently have a red spring installed I suddenly remembered that I previously had problems with the original blue spring not making the ball go all the way up the locker, but instead return back down the ramp and then drain directly through the right outlane. That behavior obviously sucks, so a red (harder) spring solved it and now a full plunge always goes up the locker and around the back for me, as I think it was intended to.

#980 2 years ago
Quoted from DrMadd220:

Hi Guys, I have a hole in my play field up by the pop bumpers. Is there supposed to be another post there?
[quoted image]

As Allsportdvd also mentioned (but didn't show pic), you are missing this post:

BR (resized).jpg

#981 2 years ago

To all having trouble entering the broadside hole consistently, make sure a) the wire gate has the small spring and b) the white rectangle insert at the entrance is leveled properly.

I added the missing spring a few months ago, and while it made the shots stay inside more often, many shots still failed to enter. I thought the problem was just generally too much "bouncing around" at the entrance (that I tried to fix with some self-adhesive dampening foam). But it turns out that my white lamp insert was raised about 1.5mm, which made many of the balls fly up and hit the top entrance part and then go back down the PF again.

After leveling the raised insert the game feels like a completely new game; I got two new high scores in the first 4-5 games after the fix

2 weeks later
#989 2 years ago
Quoted from Secondplace:

Need a little help with my Black Rose cannon flasher.
My flasher quit working & discovered the red/white & blue/red were disconnected.
I attached these to each side of the flasher bulb & when I switched on the power nothing happened.
I checked the fuse on the power box & it was fine.
Where did I go wrong?
Attachment shows the wires.
Thanks[quoted image]

I checked my pin and I have the same connections as you, but mine works as it should.
To activate the flasher you have to load the cannon catapult with an actual ball (might be other ways too but that's the one I remember right now).

5 (resized).jpg
#990 2 years ago

I saw these awesome black standard size pinballs (http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/pinballs/1662/pinball-27mm-black-pearl-high-gloss-low-magnetic) a while ago and as they would fit perfectly as cannon balls in my Black Rose I couldn't resist ordering them.

They arrived today and while I've only played like 20 minutes or so, I have to say they look really cool in the game!

The pinballs are a bit hard to see if not playing in a decently lit room though; the black balls are very hard to see properly if I turn off all lamps and play only in the light from my pins.

Will give it some more time/plays and see if I keep them in or not, but they will stay for now.

It looks awesome when the ball returns from the broadside shot and exits out of the "cannon" in the back

I did take some pictures, but as I was alone and tried to both play and hold the camera the photos are so-so. Anyway, they give you an idea of how it looks.

Edit: I have no idea how they will hold up over time regarding damage in the surface. Website doesn't recommend them in games with easily hit protruding metal parts, should be OK with this game I think though. Time will tell...

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#991 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Can anyone photograph or explain how the Davey Jones Locker ramp is supposed to sit?
I reassembled mine and the ramp stays up even when the solenoid fires. I’m not sure how the metal guide underneath is supposed to sit

This is how it looks below the Davy Jones locker for me. The metal pin at the right side is connected to the coil below. In normal play the pin is located as in the picture and the locker metal plate simply rests upon the pin, making balls able to go up. When the coil activates the pin slides upward and backwards, lifting the locker metal plate and giving access to the cannon hole. Hope this helps.

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#993 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Thanks. I realised the bracket under my ramp is not original, problem solved.
On the subject of black balls, I put those balls in mine and after 30 mins of play they had scratches on them.

Playing over an hour total now, still no visible damage/scratches to the pinballs. Will see how they develop...

#998 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Here is what mine look like. Make sure to bend wire so the tail is below slit cut out.
As you can see by my pic I had same problem.
[quoted image]

Omg, that playfield is literally screaming for a bottle of Novus

1 month later
#1007 1 year ago

Gosh, I've never opened a single power box in any of my pins, completely overlooked this one
Guess I should open them up and at least clean them with the vacuum next time I'm working on a pin.

#1011 1 year ago

Just had a fun experience today. My youngest kid (5yrs old) was playing while I was fixing another pin in the same room. Suddenly I hear my kid mention something about the ball vanishing and sure enough, the game goes into ball search mode. Curious I started to look after the ball but couldn't find it anywhere. Brought a flashlight and checked the movable cannon, multi ball lock and the broadside hole, nope not there. Looked over the rest of the PF and couldn't find any ball anywhere.

Tried to tilt the game up/down to possible shake loose a ball somewhere but no result. Finally I decided to raise the PF and while trying to empty the tray I realized there were only ONE ball there, this game is using three balls so actually not one but TWO balls were missing, wtf?!?

Stumped I asked my kiddo where did you see the ball last? and he pointed at the area around the upper right flipper. Used the flashlight and looked carefully around there and BAM, there they were, two balls stuck behind the flipper and hidden below the big parrot playfield plastic The wire metal guide located directly behind the flipper had loosened and made space for both balls getting in there and stuck.

Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture but it did look darn funny having not one but two balls stuck side by side in the same place.

1 month later
#1016 1 year ago
Quoted from m0nty:

...
Is someone able to take/post a picture of the entire cannon assembly from the underside of the playefield and how it's aligned? I'm curious to see how the 3 large posts align to the rotating parts and how that aligns to the playfield. Even more amazing would be a video showing the underside of it moving back and forth so I can use it for reference.
...

This is the best pictures I could find from my teardown/cleaning after buying it, hope they can help you out.
I don't recall my cannon "pausing" noticable at the end of the arc. I did add a few tiny spots of lubricant on the metal edge of the platter that moves through the slit in three support legs and it feels like it is actually rotating a bit smoother (less clunky) after that.

The cannon assembly is a nightmare to level though, darn those legs, its always one side that isn't completely level with the playfield

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg

4 months later
#1069 1 year ago
Quoted from PinNewb:

Here is the solution on the cannon rotation. I circled the set screw in blue. Question to all, is your motor shaft welded in place too? See red arrows. I'm not sure if this was from the factory (which doesn't make sense if they put a screw there to adjust, but the weld is so clean that's why I'm asking) or if this was done afterwards.[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine is welded too. I remember thinking this was rather odd first time I saw it.

2 months later
#1133 1 year ago

Great news, lots of people need these parts.

1 week later
#1143 1 year ago
Quoted from TomN:

Just arrived today and installed...Perfect fit and finish! Just need to level and it's good to go.

Installation: 1 hour
Levelling: Forever and ever

2 weeks later
#1169 1 year ago

While you have the playfield removed and good access to the backside, double check that you have the spring mounted in the broadside hole. That spring makes wonders in keeping the ball to stay and not fall out again after entering.

1 week later
#1177 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Cheers mate!!! Very helpful TY
Got the machine up and running now, the issue with no lights, flashers and secondary coils was due to poor connections on some of the driver board plugs, bit of re-seating action got them all happy I will have to track down the opto boards but at the moment it does work with blade switches (just can't stage with the upper right) The main thing is to order the subway ramp so the machine can be played properly, the cosmetic challenges can wait for the time being. The only thing i'm not positive about is the 2 switches for the subway ramp?? The switches on this machine are still attached to the wiring loom underneath but 1 of them is missing the metal actuator. A pic or 2 of the switches would be awesome and if possible the part number for them and any mounting bracket part number?
Thanks for the help

If you don't have the paper manual then go to ipdb.org , search using the pin name and then download the manual as pdf. There you have all stuff like switch part numbers and so on.

#1179 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Cheers yeah knew where to download it from but my printer pooped itself just recently I just wasn't sure if both subway switches were the same as one was missing the actuator but to add to the confusion there was a busted actuator in the bottom of the cab which didn't match the whole one. Could have been just a random though of course.
EDIT** I had a look through the manual but i couldn't find a reference for the subway trough switches and the part number?, apologies if i've just overlooked it (getting late here) Also trying to find a reference for the lower channel that the translite fits into, the part that is normally called a H channel for machines that have the speakers below the DMD. Again...apologies if i have just overlooked these in the manual, was a long day at work and it's getting late. TY for the help!!

BR manual page 2-42 , nr 61 "subway top" and nr 66 "subway bottom" seem to be the switches you are after. Both are 5647-12693-21.

If I understood you correct you need the bottom trim/lifting part of the backglass, that one is 03-8229-1.

Edit: I just realized this wasn't the part you need. Not sure if its correct but it could be "03-8230-3 glass retainer" that you are after, it sure sound like it but I can't find any selling it within 2 minutes googling so can't confirm its the correct part.

When I can't find stuff in the manual (usually stuff not on the playfield but rather somewhere else on the machine) this site is a great source: https://www.moll.no/pinball/jsparts/BR.php You can change the "BR" in the URL to some other game abbreviation (just make sure its all capital case) and get that machines part too. The nice thing with this site is that you can search for either words/phrases or article numbers and find them easily that way. I found the glass retainer by simply typing "backbox", then clicking on the small triangle left of the highlighted row to expand all items for the backbox, there you have all associated items with part nr and amount. Great tool!

When I'm shopping a game and for example wonder how many star posts I need to order, I simply input the post nr and count how many hits I get for it in the tree. Note that sometimes there are multiple of the same thing in one row, like "03-8228-1 channel glass edge (2)" where the 2 tells us there are two side trims.

#1182 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

lhyrgoif 1 last question and i think i should be right for now are these the correct brackets to attach the switches to the subway trough?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8652
I just wanted to make sure before i put in an order for parts.

No, the two switches attaches simply using two screws (4002-01105-10) and a plate (01-8240). I found a so-so picture from renovating my game, its a bit blurry but you should be able to see how its fastened directly to the subway anyway.

Looking at that picture now I think the previous owner mounted the screws the wrong way. If the screw head rested against the switch, the screw could go through the holes in the switch and then into the plate on the other side for "locking". The downside would be that the screw head would face the playfield and you had to remove the subway to access the screw heads. An alternative would be to buy double plates, one for each side of the switch (which I guess I'm having in this picture) or two 2-56 nuts. I'm to lazy to open my game and verify it now.

Remember to double all stuff as you have two switches to mount.
switch (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#1195 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Is anyone sitting on a good used whirlpool ramp they might be willing to part with? Doesn’t need to be perfectLy clear and clean, just intact. Let me know, thanks!

Didnt someone here reproduce that ramp and cannon plastic recently?

3 weeks later
#1248 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

First up, thanks everyone for suggestions/help so far!! An update on the lift ramp issue, got it sorted finally It took me far too long to realise that the real culprit was the L shaped bracket that the down coil attaches too (as pictured) It was bent in at the top which of course changes the angle of the dangle as they say Initially thought that the end piece that locks into the pivot arm was bent too far left or right.
The machine is pretty much up and running now, just some switch adjustments to sort BUT i'm still not happy with the cannon height adjustment. Now because i'm only going off where the cannon assembly was screwed on when i got the machine i've been wondering if it's correct?? As you can see in the 2 pics the rod adjusters are two to the left and one to the right, which makes the right hand side adjustment a PITA. I just can't find a happy medium front and back on that side
So is my assembly in the wrong spot as far as where the ring attaches to the underside? I created a mock up of how the rod adjusters are now (left side) and what i would think would be a more ideal position (right side). Is everyone's assembly in the same spot as mine? and thoughts on the suggested position would be greatly appreciated![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My adjusters are at the same positions as yours, two on left and one to the right.

Why didnt they simply had four adjusters from factory....

1 month later
#1292 10 months ago
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

Can anyone check out my post above #1276 and confirm on the screw sizing? Please and thanks!

I checked all the pictures I took when renovating my game but only found this that could be of interest for you. Unfortunately I only removed the revolving cannon part and not the entire cannon assembly so I don't have any pictures on the clips or screws as requested.

From this picture it seems some of my screws have a spacer and some don't; you could keep using your larger/longer screws to keep good grip in the PF but add a spacer or two to make sure they don't go through the top of the PF.

1 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1300 9 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

I am trying to adjust the lock switches. The old switches was sticky and slow. I can't seem to get it right, something binds. Has anyone taken a picture of their switch?
The sickout arm seems to be blocking the switches. Any pointers would be great.

Are you talking about the area with the upside down starpost? Not really sure what pictures you are after. Please gove more info and we might be able to help.

2 months later
#1349 7 months ago
Quoted from rpageler:

Question about the cannon: When i first start up the game the cannon rotates pretty slowly (especially at the far right & left)...not quite stuck but just slow to start /seems to struggle then begins to move normally. This gets better after a few games and seems to run fine in the cannon test mode. Is there a regular lubrication maintenance process that i can't find ....seems i would start there. If so, does anyone have instructions or suggestions on type of lubricant? Hoping i'm not looking at a new motor.
Thanks.

If I recall correctly I think the manual mentions lubricating the slit in the three "metal blocks" that the cannon assembly slides through.

Generally I do not lubricate things at all as the lubricant normally gathers dust and other particles that in the end only makes it worse. If you do lubricate anyway make sure it's synthetic? grease (PTFE? forgot the proper name).

1 month later
#1382 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Here's another,
Flasher 25 not working, and it's noted in the manual, from at least two owners ago. So I'm guessing noone could be bothered to fix it.
It appears to be to the sides of the broadside shot, which must be tricky to get to?
Anyone got a picture of these flashers or tips how to get there?

These two lamps are located at each side of the broadside popper "cannon" outlet, behind the black backboard, see picture I took when flashing.
20200824_210539 (resized).jpg

I thought I had taken good pictures of this area when I last did work there (mounted the missing spring on the broadside ballgate) but it turned out I didn't, this is the best pic I had. Note that when I took this picture the flashers were apparently already removed (by me earlier) so you can't see them here My guess is the flashers were mounted with screws and some metal holder to those two empty holes ontop of the backboard, but I can't remember really.
back (resized).jpg

It's tricky to get access to the backside as you can only tilt the playfield upwards (and not also forward) on this system. You have to lift out the playfield from the two pivo-hinges inside the box. I guess it might be doable with one person but I HIGHLY recommend that you are two persons for this, one on each side of the game, lifting simultaneously. The populated playfield is rather heavy and it will probably be really tricky with the hinges and lifting straight up if solo.

When I did this I didn't disconnect any cables going to the playfield, we simply lifted it up/out (two persons), then while one kept it in the air the other one put a small wooden stool inside the cabinet and then we simply put the playfield down on it, standing on its side. While one kept the PF standing the other one worked on it, then everything reversed to get it back again.

If I were to do this again someday I would probably go with two LED flashers instead of the old bulbs just to minimize the risk of having the need to go back there again.

#1383 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Hi all, I have joined the club! Black Rose is one of my two first pins at home and I'm loving it.
However, i noticed the knocker isn't connected, but I can't see a connector anywhere to plug into it.
I've studied the manual and tried to understand the wiring but surely there should be another connector loose In the backbox? Or could there be another explanation?
Is there a way someone could tell or show me where i might find the other end?
Also, mine is version L-1, is it worth getting a new updated rom or am I not gaining much?

An old pic of my knocker. Note cable colors; violet-yellow and violet-black.
knocker (resized).jpg

Looking at the solenoid wiring diagram on page 3-8 in the BR manual we find the knocker (solenoid 7) connected with those two cables again, yay! So, violet-yellow to connector J107-3 and violet-black to J130-8 (both on the power driver board).
1 (resized).jpg

#1385 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

weird there's no sign of where the bulbs would be mounted.

As I wrote, I THINK each flasher were mounted on a short metal arm and screwed to those two holes on the top edge of the backboard (but I don't remember clearly).

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

It's strange it was LED'ed

You have LEDS ? My game have normal flasher bulbs (as you can see in the first picture I posted). I was just saying that you probably should mount LEDs there instead to not risk having bulbs break.

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I had a look at the hinge earlier to try understand it but it looks like something I'll need to do with someone else when theres more room around the pin.

You definitely need room on both side of the pin for two people to stand. Just pull the pin into the center of the room?

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

It sounds really awkward in your description ugh.

Maybe I described it bad, but it's not that big of a problem if you are two people. Lift up and out, do work and lift it back down. Not hard, just heavy.

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I don't think I have the spring on the gate either so it's definitely a job to do once I've got some flasher leds and the spring...

The spring on that broadside gate is essential. Without it many of your broadside shots will enter and then exit back out again. The spring makes a really big difference as the broadside shot is central to the scoring in the game so you really need the spring to play it correctly.

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Do you know what colour the bulbs are?

The flashers are normal (#906) bulbs, no colors.

#1388 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I wonder if that can be seen by putting the backbox down and peeking through the hole? I'm curious as to if its even installed.

Seeing that picture makes me recall that's how it was for me too and yes, you can access/change both lamps when the backbox is down. I clearly remember now soldering back a loose cable to one of those lamps through the hole below the backbox.

#1390 6 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You know, now i think about it i'm not sure i have that spring on my broadside gate. I know the bloody thing is tiny though cause i bought a spare when i was collecting some parts for the mini restore when i first bought the machine. Does anyone have a pic of where it actually goes? and how it attaches?

This is how I attached mine. The spring partno is 10-434.
32 (resized).jpg

If you are unsure you have the spring, simply put your finger on the ballgate through the front broadside hole and feel if there is any resistance to it or if the metal gate simply hangs "loose".

When I was there, I also added strips of dampening foam on each side (using double adhesive tape), this removes a lot of the "rattling" of the ball.

#1394 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

It's so frustrating that nowhere except Marco appears to have the spring or gate. To get it shipped here takes weeks and at least £45!
I wonder if there's any other solutions?

The wire gate is 12-6971 if you don't have it.

Maybe you could take some other spring and just bend a bit ? I mean, it's just a piece of spring metal. The biggest issue is probably to get the correct tension, not too loose or too tight.

#1402 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

...
What is the little black part you put the bulbs in called?
...

Think it's #24-8803 , Lamp socket - twist wedge large for #906 that you are after.

1 month later
#1428 5 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Noone have a list of GI bulbs?
I have red ones in some places, for example one red and one white under each slingshot plastic... Is that how it's meant to be?

The manual list some GI as red if I recall, have you checked there?

Some should be red, that I'm sure of.

1 week later
#1435 4 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

The ball flies off my Whirlpool wireform,
I've tried bending the end of the wireform multiple ways and it still flies off.
I recorded a slow mo video and it's like the ball bounces before the turn.
Any ideas? Maybe it's going too fast?

A picture of your whirlpool + wireform, including a mark where the ball falls off would help us help you

#1438 4 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I used the phone app on the playfield. I've tried it at 6.5 and 7.0. The bubble indicates the app is correct

Will try get pictures tomorrow.
The last of the corner parts weld is detached.
Four different slow mo videos if it helps

Looking by the video the ball goes up on the side of the wireform and then take-off... Perhaps it's enough to bend the wireform side inwards, closer to the desired ball-path, i.e. make the "wall" a bit steeper to keep the ball on the wireform.

#1440 4 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I tried that at the end but had the same result. Do you mean try bend the entire length of the upright bits?

Maybe not the whole "wall" but definitely more than just the last part of it, as the ball has already "climbed up" on the wall by time it reaches the end. I'd say bend half of it to keep it on the rails. This is just a guess ofc and I cant guarantee anything.

Are there any visible marks of earlier bending or physical abuse of the wireform? Was wondering how it could have gotten bent in the first place.

1 month later
#1460 3 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

At any time during multiball/s is the upper flipper meant to stop working? Is there a setting for this? The upper flipper works normally any other time so i know it's not a coil or opto issue.

I'm pretty sure my upper flipper always work and aren't "turned off" in multiball or similar.

#1469 85 days ago
Quoted from Scullymcgee:

Getting ready to replace my Cannon body plastic with a new one, anyone have a guide on replacing these? would appreciate some insight before actually removing the whole cannon assembly as I've heard its a pain to get leveled and tuned in after removing.

I haven't seen a tutorial on this yet so pretty sure it doesn't exist. Completely removing the old and mounting the new is probably straightforward (I've swapped the actual cannon plastic body but not the mounting ring around it and it was ok).

The big pain in the famous ass comes after when you try to dial in the cannon inclination in all directions with only 3 adjustment screws. That was one of the hardest things I've ever done in pinball repairs and it still isn't perfect, I had to call it a day after hours of adjustments and just accept it was "good enough".

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