(Topic ID: 112697)

Black Rose Club: owners and fans welcome

By FlippinFantastic

9 years ago


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#1380 3 years ago

Hi all, I have joined the club! Black Rose is one of my two first pins at home and I'm loving it.

However, i noticed the knocker isn't connected, but I can't see a connector anywhere to plug into it.

I've studied the manual and tried to understand the wiring but surely there should be another connector loose In the backbox? Or could there be another explanation?

Is there a way someone could tell or show me where i might find the other end?

Also, mine is version L-1, is it worth getting a new updated rom or am I not gaining much?

#1381 3 years ago

Here's another,

Flasher 25 not working, and it's noted in the manual, from at least two owners ago. So I'm guessing noone could be bothered to fix it.

It appears to be to the sides of the broadside shot, which must be tricky to get to?
Anyone got a picture of these flashers or tips how to get there?

#1384 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

An old pic of my knocker. Note cable colors; violet-yellow and violet-black.
[quoted image]
Looking at the solenoid wiring diagram on page 3-8 in the BR manual we find the knocker (solenoid 7) connected with those two cables again, yay! So, violet-yellow to connector J107-3 and violet-black to J130-8 (both on the power driver board).
[quoted image]

Thanks,
The coin meter was connected to the cables via an electrical connector box, so I just cut the connector off of the knocker and put those cables into the connector box. Working great now!

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

These two lamps are located at each side of the broadside popper "cannon" outlet, behind the black backboard, see picture I took when flashing.
[quoted image]
I thought I had taken good pictures of this area when I last did work there (mounted the missing spring on the broadside ballgate) but it turned out I didn't, this is the best pic I had. Note that when I took this picture the flashers were apparently already removed so you can't see them here My guess is the flashers were mounted with screws and some metal holder to those two empty holes ontop of the backboard, but I can't remember really.
[quoted image]
It's tricky to get access to the backside as you can only tilt the playfield upwards (and not also forward) on this system. You have to lift out the playfield from the two pivo-hinges inside the box. I guess it might be doable with one person but I HIGHLY recommend that you are two persons for this, one on each side of the game, lifting simultaneously. The populated playfield is rather heavy and it will probably be really tricky with the hinges and lifting straight up if solo.
When I did this I didn't disconnect any cables going to the playfield, we simply lifted it up/out (two persons), then while one kept it in the air the other one put a small wooden stool inside the cabinet and then we simply put the playfield down on it, standing on its side. While one kept the PF standing the other one worked on it, then everything reversed to get it back again.
If I were to do this again someday I would probably go with two LED flashers instead of the old bulbs just to minimize the risk of having the need to go back there again.

Thanks for the pics, weird there's no sign of where the bulbs would be mounted. It's strange it was LED'ed but they must not have realised there were lights back there. I hope its just bulbs that have died!
I had a look at the hinge earlier to try understand it but it looks like something I'll need to do with someone else when theres more room around the pin.
It sounds really awkward in your description ugh.
. I don't think I have the spring on the gate either so it's definitely a job to do once I've got some flasher leds and the spring...

Do you know what colour the bulbs are?

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#1387 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

As I wrote, I THINK each flasher were mounted on a short metal arm and screwed to those two holes on the top edge of the backboard (but I don't remember clearly).

You have LEDS ? My game have normal flasher bulbs (as you can see in the first picture I posted). I was just saying that you probably should mount LEDs there instead to not risk having bulbs break.

You definitely need room on both side of the pin for two people to stand. Just pull the pin into the center of the room?

Maybe I described it bad, but it's not that big of a problem if you are two people. Lift up and out, do work and lift it back down. Not hard, just heavy.

The spring on that broadside gate is essential. Without it many of your broadside shots will enter and then exit back out again. The spring makes a really big difference as the broadside shot is central to the scoring in the game so you really need the spring to play it correctly.

The flashers are normal (#906) bulbs, no colors.

With the LED's I meant the previous owner changed it to all LEDs but left out those flashers, maybe he didn't know they were there. But id he got a LED kit surely there would be two left spare, I'll have to check the box that came with it. There is a handwritten note in the operators manual saying lamp 25 not working and that wasn't written by the previous owner so it implies they've been out or had issues for at least two previous owners.
Makes me wonder if there was a bigger issue or they just couldn't be bothered or got around to getting access to that area.

Quoted from zerbam:

this is what screws into those holes and mounts the lights
[quoted image]

Thank you so much! I wonder if that can be seen by putting the backbox down and peeking through the hole? I'm curious as to if its even installed.

#1391 3 years ago

I can't find that spring part anywhere except Marco and considering I'm in the UK the shipping for something that's not even £1 is a bit much

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Seeing that picture makes me recall that's how it was for me too and yes, you can access/change both lamps when the backbox is down. I clearly remember now soldering back a loose cable to one of those lamps through the hole below the backbox.

That's hopeful!

Update : Yes! They are accessible when the backbox is down!
Mine still had a incandescent bulb in one and nothing not even the little socket in the other.

What is the little black part you put the bulbs in called?

I put an LED in the one remaining and it worked, a whole new effect for me

#1393 3 years ago

It's so frustrating that nowhere except Marco appears to have the spring or gate. To get it shipped here takes weeks and at least £45!

I wonder if there's any other solutions?

#1395 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

The wire gate is 12-6971 if you don't have it.
Maybe you could take some other spring and just bend a bit ? I mean, it's just a piece of spring metal. The biggest issue is probably to get the correct tension, not too loose or too tight.

I've got the gate, just I'd buy the whole gate to get the spring if i had to.
It's nuts it's only listed at one site.

#1396 3 years ago

Found it at an Australian shop with bearable shipping!

Any tips for getting access to that area? Do i have to remove the playfield and if so how do i remove it and work on it if its not secured anymore?

#1399 3 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Did you order yet? And is it just the spring you need, or the whole gate assembly?

Just the spring. I did order it yeah

#1403 3 years ago

Should a ball coming down from the right past the upper flipper feed to the lower right flipper?
Mine hits the top of the right sling

Quoted from Mancave:

The spring was missing on mine and WOW, makes a big difference for such a teensie little spring
I also added some adhesive backed felt on either side of the broadside entrance whilst i had the PF forward. MUCH nicer!!
Thanks Lhyrgoif works a treat

How was it getting access to that area?

Update,

Here's another quirk of this Rosie, a couple owners back someone hacked a solution to the missing spring in an attempt to make the shot easier ....
I was worried at first but looking at photos of other Black Rose's there are two holes there. Just different post types. So it's not as if the owner had drilled an extra hole (even if the manual made it seem like they had).

Does anyone know the part number of that smaller thin post that is supposed to be where the white one is?

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#1405 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

It's much easier having someone help lift the PF but it could be achieved by one person. If you have another person then pivot back the PF until it's almost vertical and you should be able to lift the PF up a little to get the pivot brackets off the pins either side (the brackets have a section cut out to facilitate this). Then all i have done in the past is just move the PF forward until the bottom of the cannon assembly is above the front support/lockdown bar bracket and rest it on there. The back of the PF doesn't drop into the cab on mine just sits on the wooden rails that are mid cab inside. Once that is done to access where the spring goes you will need to at least remove the 2 top screws that hold that metal shield on (has the 2 flashers attached to it). You will also need to remove the rear ramp channel trough (2 screws) and to make it easier i remove the broadside popper rail (2 screws at the back and 2 above the slings) With mine i removed the bracket that holds the gate to attach the spring but you could possibly do it without that step.

Okayyy so they've added an extra rail guide.... hhmmmmm and yeah the lower clear star post should be a metal post with a small round rubber on it, the type with the pointed top. Not sure about part no# off the top of my head, would have to look it up.

I really appreciate that detailed description, I did look at how it comes off last night but thought if I get it off, where the hell can I sit it without damaging anything underneath.
So the bottom of the cannon is solid and fine to rest on the lockdown area?

I've got more issues now ‍♂️
Sometimes the Davy Jones locker ramp remains stuck in the up position.
The little solenoid that releases it seems to be working fine and keeps firing.
I have a feeling (and hoping) it's the spring on the main solenoid holding the ramp up.

From what I could tell the solenoid goes in reverse to what you'd think.... Ie the solenoid fires away from the playfield and the ramp raises using a mechanism rather than it pushing the ramp up like you'd assume.

I think the spring is under tension so when the little solenoid pushes the piece of metal that's locking the ramp up out of place the spring should do the rest?

I did take the spring off and stretched it slightly and reassembled the mech. A few tests and it appeared ok but then again it would sometimes work and then seemingly randomly stop working

#1407 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Yeah i rest it on the round metal plate part of the assembly, about maybe the first 2cms worth?, if you bring the PF further forward than that it will be sitting on the bottom of the gearbox which probably isn't a good idea. I had issues with my Davy Jones locker for some time after i bought the machine. It will most likely be the down or ramp release part (small coil) that is causing the problem NOT the ramp up coil with the larger spring. I replaced the small metal lock plate that locks the ramp up (part 01-8390) and also the crank assembly arm (part A-14870) Even then it would sometimes get stuck in the up position. After stuffing with it many times i found that the main L shaped bracket that holds the down coil was bent at the back upright section, which in turn alters the angle of the lock plate and where it slots into the crank assembly arm. Even once i had it working it seemed to stuff up a few times for a while, just every now and then, but for the past 2 months or so it's been rock solid..... hope i haven't bloody jinxed mysef stating that here
So to be exact, the large coil pulls in which raises the ramp (activates the crank assembly arm and locks into place with the lock plate), the smaller coil just acts as a release and the long spring that is attached at the back of the guide rails and attached under the ramp helps to bring the ramp down once released. The issue i'm fairly sure is like what i had, in the release and drop.

It's odd it was working well for a couple hours and now is really unreliable.
The little coil just keeps firing while the 'lift crank assembly' doesn't move.
I thought the spring might be the issue as its not pushing on the crank ready for the little coil to release it. But even after when trying it manually with your fingers there's some resistance. So maybe something else is a miss like a bent arm.

I'll struggle to explain this but the way the part of the coil pushes onto the arm, its like an elbow and it's almost like it locks. Like it isn't pushing it in the right way.

And typical that crank arm is only available at the same place I ordered the torsion spring from.
If only I had known a couple days ago!

#1409 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You might not need to replace it though. Unscrew the assembly that holds the the small coil from the bottom of the PF and have a look at the back of the bracket. It's like an L piece and there is another flat bit of metal on top that's sort of hinged (for want of a better term), this piece is what the coil pulls down to release the ramp and it has the little lock plate screwed to the end of it. My bracket was bent at the back part of the L (the upright part) and bent inwards which in turn altered the angle at where the lock plate engages with the slot in the crank arm. I straightened that part of the bracket up and had better results although as mentioned i had to stuff around with it a bit to get it sorted. I would also check that the front edge of the ramp isn't fouling on the side rail and that the large spring that adds the tension to the underneath of the ramp is clear as well. It's a tricky bloody mech and i must admit out of all the machines i've worked on that up and down ramp and also the cannon assembly is about my least favs when it comes to design.

I took the part holding the solenoid out, (like I had many times trying to fix it) and fiddled about and reattached it.
There were two sets of screw holes, one giving it more leverage.

I played it a lot yesterday and it didn't stay up once (that i could notice, still skeptical as I'm sure I tried moving it before).

Again, hard to explain mechanically and I don't really know what I did different that time.
I'll have to get pics next time I have the playfield up.

On another topic, the ball often falls off the whirlpool wireframe, I've tried bending the last side part up and away and still had it happen... Is that just part of Rosie?

Game is currently set on about 7 degrees incline, does steeper mean harder with Rosie?

And another subject, mine had been upgraded with LEDs, but the previous owner missed a few locations.
The GI is cool white in some places and warm in others (mainly where the old bulbs remain like flanking the left ramp under the plastics).

I'm feeling Rosie would look better with warm white GI, anyone have that opinion or thoughts?

#1410 3 years ago

Here's an odd one.

Yesterday Black Rose was on, I didn't play any games but I was playing Road Show next to it. In the corner of my eye i saw "coin door open use buttons" (or similar), then it went away.

I turned Rosie off at some point and then when I turned her back on I got the check fuses message.

I'm a new pin owner (don't own a multimeter yet but ones on the way), I checked the fuses and they looked ok to the naked eye.
I fiddled about here and there but eventually gave up as the circuit board part of pin ownership is beyond me at the moment. I did look up guides, and noted LED1 was out but due to not having a multimeter yet I couldn't go further.

I messaged my pal who works on pins and he said it could be my bridge rectifier, so this morning I ordered one along with other odds and sods.

I turned it on this morning out of curiosity and it booted up fine
Any idea what is going on?

And secondly even if I open the coin door I don't get a message about it being open‍♂️

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#1412 3 years ago

A gameplay question,
What dictates the value of the jackpot? In attract mode mine shows just over 8 million, but in one game it gave me 18mil (if i remember correctly).

Quoted from Mancave:

Mine does that too depending on the speed of the ball but i have one of the cross members busted off from the wireform (the one closest to the whirlpool entrance) so i'm guessing that's why mine does that.
F114 fuse is the 18V Lamp Matrix and F115 is the 12V Switch Matrix both of which if blown you would definitely know, especially the 12V Switch Matrix. Fuses can sometimes look ok but can still be knackered and it's best to test them off the machine with a DMM.
I'm not sure about the bridge rectifier but if those fuses were blown the machine might not be playable although it would still boot up i'm thinking. I just checked my machine and i don't get the coin door open message either but i know the machine is fully working so maybe my switch behind the door isn't working?? not sure, it was like that when i got the machine. I think on my Fish Tales it gives the message but more to the point it cuts the high power to the flipper coils usually, that's what it's designed into the system for.
Sometimes machines can play up due to faulty ribbon cables also, and give weird, seemingly random messages like fuse warnings and such. I've had that happen before on other pins and for Black Rose sometimes i have to reseat the ribbon cable to the display as it occasionally gets lines across it. Try reseating all the ribbon cables on all the boards BUT make sure when you reattach them that all the pins are back in the holes in the connector correctly. It can be quite easy to reattach the connector and be one row of pins over.

My friend said it could be a sign of the BR dying.
I did fiddle with connectors and fuses trying to get it working but it didn't get me anywhere so it's odd it worked the next day.

I guess Rosie doesn't have a high power cut off with the coin door then. But has that message as if it does.
Unless mine and yours isn't wired up!

#1414 3 years ago

Would really appreciate some help here,

The "Check Fuses F114 and F115" returned.
I got a replacement Bridge rectifier and a friend fitted it. The multimeter readings show its working but also that BR2 is not working either.

I wish I'd bought two bridge rectifiers now. (i have a second on order)

But still this morning the pin turned on ok, but within minutes the "coin door open use buttons" message appeared then a few seconds later "SLAM TILT". The pin remained in attract mode but no buttons would work.

Is this likely to be because of the other bridge rectifier?
I have my own multimeter now so is there anything i should check?

3 weeks later
#1421 3 years ago

So my spring came!

There was a silly mod to make the broadside shot easier which isn't needed anymore.

So I've tried to put the posts as they should be.

But the thin metal post (in middle of the picture) won't stay in... I may have ordered the wrong one, or the way the previous owners had it meant the hole has been stripped?

Could someone tell me if it is a wood screw post, or one with a nut, or a t nut one?
20200929_135056 (resized).jpg20200929_135056 (resized).jpg

#1424 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It's definitely a wood screw post. But this is a good idea regardless - those posts eventually weaken anyway from ball impacts; the through-posts with the nut on bottom are far stronger.

The one I bought must be for a T nut as it reaches the bottom of the playfield but doesn't poke out.
I can't seem to find a post that's for a nut underneath.. Any ideas of the part number?

#1426 3 years ago

My Rosie has horrible cold GI leds.

I think she looked better with the incandescents (a few were left in).

I was thinking, would Comet Warm whites work? And are the GI bulbs all the same type?

A list would be good

Also,
In front of the left ramp there was a half moon shaped piece of mylar. The ramp flap was under it and I had to remove it to get the ramp out.

It came off easy except the tip or the sword insert/inlay which came with it. So I cut the mylar around that and stuck a small rectangle to hold that other small bit in place (i didn't know what else to do!)

It's not too bad, and probably better than the big bit of mylar that had fingerprint marks under it!

But what are my options if I want to remove it? How do I replace what is stuck to the mylar?

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#1427 3 years ago

Noone have a list of GI bulbs?

I have red ones in some places, for example one red and one white under each slingshot plastic... Is that how it's meant to be?

#1429 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

The manual list some GI as red if I recall, have you checked there?
Some should be red, that I'm sure of.

Yeah I remember reading that there's reds and they're labeled with R on playfield.

No list in manual that i can see.

On the red GI circuit the one on the left in the picture lights up and is blue. Should that be in the right socket and a red in its place?

Can't get both lights in the same photo. There are two next to each other, both GI, one closest to the back is blue and the one closest to the whirlpool ramp is white

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#1431 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Yes, that is meant to be like that. Black Rose and Party Zone both have modes that use the red lamps only. Sets the mood of the mode.

But one blue one when the reds are lit?. I tried to look for a R next to it but couldn't see.

#1433 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

These 2 games have a regular GI and red GI. No blue bulbs. If some blue are installed in the GI, that is not original. Likely a blue LED was put there because a white LED at the the angle in that spot from the player's prospective may be burning eyes.

It's next to white. I assume it was to match the pops.
So the white can stay and I'll replace the blue with a red.

It was already upgraded to LEDs by the previous owner, they missed a few though.
I'm thinking of leaving all the colours but redoing the GI.
The white is far too cold. I think warm white would work better for Black Rose?

1 week later
#1434 3 years ago

The ball flies off my Whirlpool wireform,
I've tried bending the end of the wireform multiple ways and it still flies off.

I recorded a slow mo video and it's like the ball bounces before the turn.

Any ideas? Maybe it's going too fast?

#1437 3 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

When you leveled the machine did you level from playfield or from on top of the glass? Are the spot welds broken on the wire form?

I used the phone app on the playfield. I've tried it at 6.5 and 7.0. The bubble indicates the app is correct

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

A picture of your whirlpool + wireform, including a mark where the ball falls off would help us help you

Will try get pictures tomorrow.
The last of the corner parts weld is detached.

Four different slow mo videos if it helps

#1439 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Looking by the video the ball goes up on the side of the wireform and then take-off... Perhaps it's enough to bend the wireform side inwards, closer to the desired ball-path, i.e. make the "wall" a bit steeper to keep the ball on the wireform.

I tried that at the end but had the same result. Do you mean try bend the entire length of the upright bits?

#1441 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Maybe not the whole "wall" but definitely more than just the last part of it, as the ball has already "climbed up" on the wall by time it reaches the end. I'd say bend half of it to keep it on the rails. This is just a guess ofc and I cant guarantee anything.
Are there any visible marks of earlier bending or physical abuse of the wireform? Was wondering how it could have gotten bent in the first place.

You can see its not welded together and broke at some point.
I've got it as pictured now and the ball hasn't flown off yet!
I swear I had it like this before... Pinball is weird

Another topic, my canon stopped turning yesterday. It seems the disc was seizing against the levellers. I managed to solve it but it jerks in motion when near the centre.
What is the lubricant used on the disc? Mine has some but it's wearing thin

Unless it's not supposed to have any!

20201015_124549 (resized).jpg20201015_124549 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1449 3 years ago

Hey guys,

My canon doesn't turn right far enough to reliably make the right shot to the pops. How do you adjust this?

2 months later
#1484 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Anyone have an issue with their cannon shot being too powerful? Mine seems to want to bounce out of the broadside shot even on a direct shot. There is a gate on it but I think the ball is bouncing back before the gate can come down.

Missing the spring I'd guess! A lot of people are missing it and don't realise.
Mine was and it's a different game with it installed.
I forget the part number but if you search this thread for 'spring' you'll find it

2 weeks later
#1487 3 years ago

Strange what you find when investigating. Seems multiple holes were made here, for some reason!

My Davy Jones ramp would occasionally get stuck on the metal to its right and wouldn't lower properly.
So i tried angling the metal differently using the other holes at the back...
Ramp worked fine but balls would enter the locker so fast they'd push into the now tighter gap and get locked in there.

So am I missing something or using the wrong holes? Is my metal part bent?

Please look at the photos and try to figure this out? extra two screw holesextra two screw holes
stuck balls, i thought maybe I could get away with leaving an old ball there to stop the rest getting stuck but nope, such force they end up like this! stuck balls, i thought maybe I could get away with leaving an old ball there to stop the rest getting stuck but nope, such force they end up like this!
stuck balls, i thought maybe I could get away with leaving an old ball there to stop the rest getting stuck but nope, such force they end up like this.

20210205_214915 (resized).jpg20210205_214915 (resized).jpg

#1489 3 years ago

Another Rosie query

Upper flipper alignment. Is it supposed to be more in line with the ball guide above?
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Also, I don't think I've ever achieved that 3 way combo.

#1491 3 years ago

I've got wood flaking here... What are my options?

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Also this dirt/ball trails, I've tried novus 1, 2 and a bit of 3 to no avail. Also tried a 70% alcohol wipe.

Advice?
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Quoted from zacaj:

Aligning it a bit back (not parallel) will help with the side ramp shot. Aligning it parallel will help with the combo shot in the corner. I don't think there's any markings or anything to say for sure which way it's supposed to be

I made it look more satisfying to the eye... But damn it's so much harder to reliably make the ramp/Davy Jones locker shot now

2 months later
#1502 2 years ago

Has anyone made the outlanes less brutal by replacing the post with a star post?

#1505 2 years ago

I looked into it but the machine screws for the star posts I have don't go far enough below the playfield to be secured.
Are there longer screws?

2 weeks later
#1516 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

It certainly improves the outlanes that's for sure, not completely non brutal mind you but makes enough difference to be worth the change.
I used the star post supports pictured but i did have to cut off the top 3-4mm of central plastic on the star post though as the metal support wasn't quite long enough to thread in. You probably can get longer thread posts but that was all i had at the time. I've got mine mounted on the lowest hole of the 3.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Added mine yesterday with a re-rubber of Perfect Plays! Still have Superbands on the flippers but tempted to change those out of curiosity...
I ordered some long machine screws for the star posts. They have to be fixed using a nut underneath though.

It's tempting to put a bigger rubber that goes across all three posts bit I'm not sure. It might look better

My Rosie also has a lot of air balls. It's such an energetic game!

Does anyone know if you can reset the high scores but leave the grand champ?

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2 weeks later
#1517 2 years ago

I had friends over for the first time in so long (thanks Covid restrictions!) and I had so many comments that Rosie is too dark.

I've got leds in it. But still the GI isn't great.
Has anyone added any spotlights or extra GI? If so where?

#1545 2 years ago

Has anyone used warm white GI? I am toying with the idea as it seems more suited to the pf colours?
I have sunlights at the moment and they feel a little cold on Rosie

1 month later
#1576 2 years ago

Regarding the cannon mechanism, the 3 levelling bits turn freely in mine, with a nut underneath them to keep them at a set height.
There's also signs of some lube around them and the metal circle... Is this right?

I tried tightening the levellers using the hex nuts that go through them but the cannon then wouldn't turn as if its too tight and grinding metal on metal...

Advice please!

1 month later
#1605 2 years ago

When the ball goes around from full plunge/left ramp or the loop, is it supposed to come down to the right flipper? Mine was passing the upper flipper and hitting top of the right sling. I adjusted the ball guide slightly and the all now is delivered to the right flipper.

Also if the ball isn't going fast, when it drops to the right of the pops the ball bounces from right to left, it isn't a smooth journey.

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